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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-06-2014, 05:05 PM
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JDeGraff89 JDeGraff89 is online now
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Mein Auto: 04/1997 528i Auto,
528i temperature creeping up while sitting idle.

Ok guys, you know im scatter brained, but I will try to lay this out the best I can,

The problem, Sitting at a stop light today I noticed the temp needle move to the 3/4 mark. dropped back down to middle shortly after take off.

Things I've done to try to help you help me:

1. Turned on the secret OBD, temps climbed to about 103 then down to 93 while moving.

2. Checked fan blade with engine off. Free spinning but with good resistance

3. AUX fan was on because AC was on,

4. while parked I let the the temp climb to 100 celcius, when it got there I hit the gas to get the RPM up. cooled back down to 93 rapidly.

5. Searched Google. came up with many unresolved threads. or if they had been resolved the OP never posted what worked.

best case senario I know would be to park it up until I throw parts in it and what not but that cannot be done. what can be done is putting it in Neutral at stop lights and revving to keep what ever it is that keeps it cool cooling.

Things ive read either say I need to bleed again.. I've bled a lot man. but never lifted the car the legendary 6" never thought I should.

or its the AUX fan resistor sensor? failing open? but it seems to have a low speed because it was running pretty low it did not sound like a jet engine.
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2014, 05:20 PM
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JDeGraff89 JDeGraff89 is online now
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Mein Auto: 04/1997 528i Auto,
Also, can I clarify the bleeding procedure?

1. Turn key to start position, do not crank

2. Turn heater to max, fan speed at lowest setting.

3. Remove T-stat bleeder screw wait for bubbles to stop,

4. Replace T-stat bleeder.

5. Remove expansion tank bleeder. let out bubbles.

6. Replace bleeder.

7. Open expansion tank cap

8. Done??


every time I bleed I also pour in coolant... is this wrong? I used the procedure I found on here. but think I may be doing it wrong.



Edit, Damn it all. ive been bleeding wrong or not bleeding enough. I just searched through best links. through the various bleed methods.... and I chose the wrong one. I will be following the TIS version from here on. starting tomorrow.
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Last edited by JDeGraff89; 08-06-2014 at 05:47 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-07-2014, 01:01 AM
jygesq jygesq is offline
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When is last time thermostat was replaced?

If aux fan AND fan. Clutch are working then thermostat would be logical , but fan clutch sounds to be most likely culprit .THAT IS ASSUMING YOU HAVE BLEED ALL THE AIR OUT,

Last edited by jygesq; 08-07-2014 at 01:03 AM.
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  #4  
Old 08-07-2014, 04:56 AM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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Ditto fan clutch. Since engine cools down as soon as rpm rises, it's not a bleeding problem. 100C is not uncommon idling w/AC on in hot weather. Next time it's at 103C open hood, race engine and check air flow thru radiator. Fan clutch should be locked and there should be noticeably more air flowing thru radiator then when cold. The noise a locked fan clutch makes is distinctive. The noise is most noticeable driving off after an extended stop. Noise should stop as engine cools down. In my experience it stops in ~500 ft. Is your idle speed too low? How old is fan clutch?
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  #5  
Old 08-07-2014, 06:39 AM
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Hey guys. I think I found it when the engine finally cooled. To 47C. The coolant level was about 2 inches below the Kalt mark on my transparent expansion tank. The radiator nipple is leaking.
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:39 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Your info for bleeding is wrong for your car--the info is correct for later models with the auxelery water pump--your model must be bleed with a differnet method--suggest that you look up the write up made by CN90--his method is correct for your model year...Hope That helps--Glad you found the problem with the Rad Nipple and all....
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  #7  
Old 08-07-2014, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
Ditto fan clutch. Since engine cools down as soon as rpm rises, it's not a bleeding problem. 100C is not uncommon idling w/AC on in hot weather. Next time it's at 103C open hood, race engine and check air flow thru radiator. Fan clutch should be locked and there should be noticeably more air flowing thru radiator then when cold. The noise a locked fan clutch makes is distinctive. The noise is most noticeable driving off after an extended stop. Noise should stop as engine cools down. In my experience it stops in ~500 ft. Is your idle speed too low? How old is fan clutch?
Bingo!! And thank you. Was doing some bleeding here at work. Engine got way hot.. Spun the fan by hand. And no resistance at all!! Fan clutch is shot. So now new round of questions.

I have found three reasonably priced options.

Bher Fan Clutch. : $93.00

Borg Fan Clutch : $72.00

Sachs Fan Clutch : $113.00

Obviouusly the borg is more appealing. So which option do you recomend?
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:56 AM
professorman professorman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDeGraff89 View Post
Bingo!! And thank you. Was doing some bleeding here at work. Engine got way hot.. Spun the fan by hand. And no resistance at all!! Fan clutch is shot. So now new round of questions.

I have found three reasonably priced options.

Bher Fan Clutch. : $93.00

Borg Fan Clutch : $72.00

Sachs Fan Clutch : $113.00

Obviouusly the borg is more appealing. So which option do you recomend?
Try to get one with a warranty . I changed my fan clutch and thermostat, and within 2k miles, the thermostat was shot again. I bought mine from my local import aftermarket specialist. For my Accord, I like lifetime warranties.
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  #9  
Old 08-07-2014, 11:01 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Before you run into disaster, do a cooling overhaul.
Any parts recently replaced, keep them.
Anything suspicious, replace them.

Brief rundown:
- Pulleys: INA --> best bang for the bucks. Keep the tenioners, unless the boot is cracked.
- Reservoir: BMW only. No Behr.
- WP: Hepu
- Fan Clutch, if yours is still good keep it. Otherwise Sachs only! No Behr!
- WP Pulley: if more than 140K: dealer.
- Belts: Continental
- Tstat housing: dealer
- Tstat: Wahler 92C.
- Rad: Nissens.

- Coolant: I use Prestone Green + Distilled water.

Use autohausaz dot com and/or eeuroparts dot com for parts.
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  #10  
Old 08-07-2014, 03:00 PM
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I've got a Sachs clutch coming into Omaha tomorrow morning. Unfortunatly no fan clutch tool. But I've got an 1 1/4" open ended wrench and a pry bar. Cam. Do you have a clutch tool? Have you fashioned your own? I'm wondering because we're almost neighbors. I could pay you a deposite even if you let me borrow it.
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  #11  
Old 08-07-2014, 06:44 PM
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Also. Just in case you didn't know. Haggling isn't entirely dead.. I went through. Advanced Auto Parts.. I know I know box store oh no. But they offered me 2. Choiced. Sachs for 160. Or Malhe for I forget the price. I'll be paying 101 for that Sachs clutch that is arriving tomorrow. Which is also cheaper than any Sachs I've seen online plus I've got warranty.. So haggle people its doable.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:48 PM
Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Mein Auto: 98 528i 5-spd sport pkg
Fan clutch wrench = 32mm bike headset wrench. But it's really too short, I have used in a pinch but still need holding tool. Auto supply store often loan the correct tool for this.


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  #13  
Old 08-07-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Fan clutch wrench = 32mm bike headset wrench. But it's really too short, I have used in a pinch but still need holding tool. Auto supply store often loan the correct tool for this.


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Is the holder BMW specific?.. Its an odd question I guess. This is the only fan clutch I've ever gotten to work on. I breifly had a 3 series that also had a fan clutch but that car caught fire before it needed any major work. And I didn't love it like my E39. But through out my car buying history of 60's - 70's american muscle / cruisers. And late 80's early 90's light trucks and a few other random toys. All mechanically driven, or electric fans. So I'm not up to snuff on a viscus clutch. So do they all end up having some. Sort of holder tool? And I can find one cheap. I did find. Free schematic which I thought about taking to a havc place to get cut up.
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  #14  
Old 08-07-2014, 08:21 PM
Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Not certain about the holder tool. Many cars use a viscous clutch, many are Japanese so they are metric like German cars...call an auto supply store on this as I bet they know as again viscous is quite common.


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  #15  
Old 08-08-2014, 06:34 AM
Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Thinking some more, seems as I recall the long-armed holding tool is probably not as car-specific as the 32mm wrench....the tool is used to keep the hub attached to the water pump from turning as one uses the wrench to I loosen the nit holding the fan clutch. And note, the nut is reverse thread-turn clockwise to loosen.


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  #16  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
the tool is used to keep the hub attached to the water pump from turning
More information than anyone could ever want on the tools to use for the fan clutch nut (both the wrench & the counterhold) are to be found in the bestlinks, simply by typing /counterhold f3 (or any of a number of other purposefully obvious keywords):
- All you'd ever want to know about BMW cooling system overhaul fan clutch nut counterhold tools for your BMW E39 (1)

The job of the OP is to ADD VALUE to that thread, after reading it, and trying one or more of the suggestions ...
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #17  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
More information than anyone could ever want on the tools to use for the fan clutch nut (both the wrench & the counterhold) are to be found in the bestlinks, simply by typing /counterhold f3 (or any of a number of other purposefully obvious keywords):
- All you'd ever want to know about BMW cooling system overhaul fan clutch nut counterhold tools for your BMW E39 (1)

The job of the OP is to ADD VALUE to that thread, after reading it, and trying one or more of the suggestions ...
Hey blue, not sure if you can see this as I'm probably still on your sh*t list. But I have looked at those threads and am in the process of making my own tool today at work. I printed of the schematic and I'm following it exactly. So yup
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Last edited by JDeGraff89; 08-08-2014 at 07:31 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:14 AM
pshovest pshovest is offline
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I use a 1-1/4" open end wrench that was thinned to about 3/8". Not sure thinning is still required, but it was on M30 engines. 9 times out of 10, I can remove clutch w/o holding tool. Make sure belt is installed and hit wrench sharply with hammer, clutch spins off. Remember it's a left handed thread. Ask nicely and maybe cn90 will show you his top secret trick to re-install with a string.
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  #19  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
I use a 1-1/4" open end wrench that was thinned to about 3/8". Not sure thinning is still required, but it was on M30 engines. 9 times out of 10, I can remove clutch w/o holding tool. Make sure belt is installed and hit wrench sharply with hammer, clutch spins off. Remember it's a left handed thread. Ask nicely and maybe cn90 will show you his top secret trick to re-install with a string.
Hmmm intriqued. Maybe like a top?
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:50 AM
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Ha.. So I have a picture that I can't upload right now. But I got the counter hold made up today at work. I'm only proud of it if it ends up working but it looks pretty slick. Lol.
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
I use a 1-1/4" open end wrench that was thinned to about 3/8".
It would be nice to have a picture of that so others benefit in the clutch nut and counterhold tool thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
Ask nicely and maybe cn90 will show you his top secret trick to re-install with a string.
Heh heh ... I screwed up my threads the first time, not knowing about the floss trick.

Luckily, typing /fan clutch nut f3 in the bestlinks will net the trick details ...
- What is the cn90 trick to get the fan clutch nut back on (1)

Here's my fan clutch nut, going back on, using rawhide ...
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Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-08-2014 at 03:25 PM.
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  #22  
Old 08-13-2014, 02:20 PM
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Guys!! Its doing it again!! Wth could I possibly have done wrong? I even went with the expensive Sachs clutch.. And it seems like its already failed!!! Creeping temps at stop lights. No resistance when I spin fan clutch by hand. It worked well for what 5 days?.. Wtf man. I'm so pissed
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:33 PM
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Ok. So.. I bled the system again. Went on a test drive. All was fineish.. Stopped to get some things. In and out. Got into the car temp was high. Engine hot but not cooling because no running fan. So yeah but then trying to leave the parking lot it tried to over heat. Sped out of the lot got it cool again. Got home sat in the drive way for 10 minutes and it never peaks 98 degrees C. Is this maybe a T stat issue? Is it not openning at the right temps?
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Old 08-13-2014, 04:30 PM
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If it was a t-stat it would have to be stuck open. Try taking a garden hose, start the engine and duplicate the issue when it starts to overheat start running water down the fins of the radiator if the temp gauge falls below normal operating range then you know the t-stat is stuck open.
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Old 08-13-2014, 04:32 PM
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Then I'm so lost.. A brand new fan clutch should not go bad in 3 days! Right?
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