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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-16-2016, 06:40 PM
jasonv44 jasonv44 is offline
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Location: los angeles
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Mein Auto: 528i
Stalling, runs rough replaced fuel pump, filter etc...not fixed! Advice Appreciated!!

Hi,

Got a 1997 528i and just replaced the battery, fuel filter and fuel pump. The battery light went on a couple days ago and the car started to run oddly.

When I would step on the gas it wouldn't get power, then would start bogging down and stall. If I turned off the ignition, waiting a few seconds it would restart. Did that a few times trying to get home, stalled 3 times, and then just quit.

Checked the battery, was found to be weak so replaced (5 years old). Wouldn't start with new battery. I scanned the computer and it had a couple issues, 50, 225 and 226. I believe related to lean fuel conditions in two banks.

I took off the fuel filter and there was no pressure in the lines, so replaced fuel filter and fuel pump.

UPDATE: Just replaced fuel pressure regulator, pressure in system around 40 to 45 PSI.

Started up, but runs oddly. Has good power for a second, then bogs down and stalls if it's at idle. I can hear the fuel pump trying to work, it sounds like it's pulsing on and off trying to maintain pressure.

Anyone run into this? Any advice?

Thanks,

Jason

Last edited by jasonv44; 11-17-2016 at 06:48 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-16-2016, 06:45 PM
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acoste acoste is offline
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Mein Auto: 2010 550i MT
Battery light is not about the battery but about the alternator. I think it's dead. Check the voltage when running.
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2016, 06:54 PM
jasonv44 jasonv44 is offline
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Location: los angeles
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Mein Auto: 528i
Just checked voltage and it seems to be sitting around 13.7 to 13.8, although dips down to 13.4 because the rpm's dip down below 500 while it's at idle. Hasn't stalled, but clearly struggling. I don't know if the voltage is low because the engine rpm's are low or if it's the alternator causing the issue. There is no battery light on right now.

Last edited by jasonv44; 11-16-2016 at 07:15 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2016, 08:38 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Location: San Jose, CA
 
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Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
Get the codes scanned. Report back.

Overnight battery voltage s/b 12.5+.
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2016, 09:49 PM
jasonv44 jasonv44 is offline
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Location: los angeles
 
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Mein Auto: 528i
Scanned it earlier, 225 = Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Bank 1, 226 = Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Bank 2, 50 = Solenoid valve running losses control circuit electrical.
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2016, 06:50 PM
jasonv44 jasonv44 is offline
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Location: los angeles
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 65
Mein Auto: 528i
Just got finished replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Wasn't the problem, still runs rough and the system has about 40 to 45 PSI while cranking. I replaced the vacuum hose that went to the pressure regulator as well.

Also, I swapped the fuel pump relay in the trunk with one of the others ones back there. Didn't make a difference so assume the relay is fine.

Anyone have ideas on what it could be? I'm totally at a loss as the computer isn't kicking out an error code that tells me anything...

Thoughts??

Thanks!

Jason

Last edited by jasonv44; 11-17-2016 at 06:52 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2016, 07:12 PM
luis.lopez20 luis.lopez20 is offline
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Mein Auto:
Have u clean and or check you MAF I had a similar problem with my 530 n it turned out to be that one way to see n most with not agree with me. Unplug ur MAF n o2 sensors (while car is off) start it n if it idle around 800-1000 it's going to be that. Try it and see what happens.

Luis
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2016, 08:08 PM
jasonv44 jasonv44 is offline
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Location: los angeles
 
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Mein Auto: 528i
I did clean the MAF, no luck unless it's dead/dying and cleaning isn't good enough. I sprayed it thoroughly with CRC MAF cleaner....
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  #9  
Old 11-17-2016, 08:10 PM
luis.lopez20 luis.lopez20 is offline
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Mein Auto:
Try disconnecting it and see if it run better then it is right now
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  #10  
Old 11-17-2016, 08:54 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
Fuel pressure is slightly low. S/b 50 psi+.

What are the short term and long term fuel trim numbers?

How many miles on the O2 sensors?
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  #11  
Old 11-17-2016, 09:29 PM
Sroor9001 Sroor9001 is offline
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Location: Bahrain
 
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Mein Auto: Bmw 525i 2002
Right fuel pressure should be around 50+-1
But which brand is this fuel pump ?
For sure its your problem or the brand of your fuel pressure regulator cause one of these are faulty or your fuel filter is clogged but you said you have changed it ?
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2016, 10:55 AM
jasonv44 jasonv44 is offline
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Location: los angeles
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 65
Mein Auto: 528i
Looks like it's the MAF, I unplugged it and the car immediately started to run better. Idle went up to about 1k but didn't stall, etc. Ordered a MAF and once installed I'll circle around with an update. Thanks everyone for the help, greatly appreciated and will be good to get back on the road!
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2016, 06:28 PM
jasonv44 jasonv44 is offline
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Location: los angeles
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 65
Mein Auto: 528i
Update: So I had two issues, the first was indeed the MAF which I found at a yard for $40. The second issue which seems very odd and was why it was so hard to figure out was that my fuel pump died. I bought a cheapy one off Amazon, but when I installed it the original fuel level sender tube was too stiff and kept pushing the pump off it's seat causing the car to die...it cost me a lot of inconvenience and two tow's before I figured it out. I ended up replacing the OEM fuel pump housing for the one that came new with the fuel pump. The knock off version was just too weak to have a secure fit.

Also replaced the sender...and was very careful to tighten the connecting hose after I had figured out which way each was positioned in the fuel tank. What I mean is that the hose has to wrap around from the 9 oclock to 4 oclock position with noon being the front of the car. Save yourself some time, when you have the pump and sender out of the car connect the two with a smooth bend in the tube. Make sure that the hose isn't causing the pump to twist because you clamped it on unbalanced. My original sending unit was so fragile that the leads broke off when I was just barely handling them. Almost 20 years sitting in fuel logically would degrade things.

This fix was unnecessarily long and time consuming because the computer wasn't throwing any codes that helped me troubleshoot....plus I didn't know if I had everything positioned until I drove it and hit some bumps.

That being said, I THINK I have it right because it starts and the pump felt more secure with the OEM housing, but still haven't driven it...AAA saved my ass several times this week...I'm also out of free tows for the year...

Oh well, hope this helps someone who runs into this problem.
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