Replaced oil pan gasket

For those that do oil analysis, on your next oil analysis after the oil pan gasket change, if you used RTV whether little or heavily, note that in your sample to let the technician know because your silicone count will spike up abnormally.

Originally Posted by cn90

Back to this topic by Mudbone, all people need is a bead of RTV slightly smaller than toothpaste on the toothbrush. If you can achieve a thickness slightly thicker than the gasket itself, you are good to go.

For Bluebee's benefit, do you think this would work as a definition of a "dab," or is it closer to a "gob?"

Originally Posted by bobdmac

For Bluebee's benefit, do you think this would work as a definition of a "dab," or is it closer to a "gob?"

Methinks we need a glossary of BMW E39 volumetric idiom!

Originally Posted by Jared@EACTuning

What did you cut it with?

As a general statement, everyone please remember that any sealant used must go somewhere. Too much in the wrong place can mean it will be squeezed into your engine. It can harden in oil passages or chunks may be circulated until they get stuck in a passage. Sealant is awesome, but use it correctly.

I'd highly recommend everyone try a product call RedHead gasket shellac. Awesome stuf.

Thanks!
I will look into that Redhead...
LOL!

Originally Posted by Mudbone

I used aviation snips and then deburred with a file.

It has been nearly a month now and still NO LEAKS!

Originally Posted by cn90

As Jared pointed out, using RTV correctly is the key.
- Also let it sit according to the instructions in the RTV package, usually 1-2h of curing before installing things back.

Back to this topic by Mudbone, all people need is a bead of RTV slightly smaller than toothpaste on the toothbrush. If you can achieve a thickness slightly thicker than the gasket itself, you are good to go.

Good info.

I might have an oil pan gasket leak, I might not.
I need to clean the underside of the car, a lot...
I am very suspicious of the oil filter housing gasket, and or a valve cover gasket leak...

However, I do need to lower the sub-frame any ways, in order to install the new Eibach front sway bar.

If I do replace the oil pan gasket, I will more than likely drop the sub-frame, and the oil pan, and replace with new pan bolts and a gasket, similar to the ATF replacement...

I'll be trying this on Sunday. Stealer told me I had a oil pan gasket leak when I took it in for a new EWS module. They wanted something outrageous to replace the gasket. Hopefully I can swing this. I'm leaking somewhere and I've already replace the OFH gasket and the valve cover gaskets.

Originally Posted by zman2001 525i

I'll be trying this on Sunday. Stealer told me I had a oil pan gasket leak when I took it in for a new EWS module. They wanted something outrageous to replace the gasket. Hopefully I can swing this. I'm leaking somewhere and I've already replace the OFH gasket and the valve cover gaskets.

I would suspect a bad oil filter housing gasket or a bad valve cover gasket first....
Have the car looked over by a good independent BMW mechanic first.
And, clean the underside real well, in order to know where the leaks are coming from.

I had a good look at the OFH when I replaced the alternator and it looks fine. No leaks there. From what I can tell the valve cover is no longer leaking. I'll take a really close look before I tackle the oil pan gasket.

Originally Posted by zman2001 525i

I had a good look at the OFH when I replaced the alternator and it looks fine. No leaks there. From what I can tell the valve cover is no longer leaking. I'll take a really close look before I tackle the oil pan gasket.

Is your CCV original?
If yes, than more than likely, you have a blown valve cover gasket...

Replaced the CCV when I replace the OFH gasket last year.

Great thread!!! I will be following this method shortly!

I snaked mine and i still have not seen any leak for about 1000 miles now

I did a coolant change this weekend. I checked the oil pan thoroughly and found NO leaks. This is definitely the way to go if you need a new pan gasket.

That's the way I'm going right now. Not by choice, but as long as it works.

BTW...low long did you guys wait after applying the RTV before filling the motor oil back in?

Mudbone, do you know how many miles it's been since you replaced the gasket? Just curious.

3829 miles as of this morning with the new gasket

For those in need of a new oil pan gasket, I can attest to the fact that this repair is sound.

This repair can be done in around two hour, if you drain the oil the night before. If you read through the entire thread you’ll understand why that is important.

THANKS cn90, this was mostly your idea, I just prototyped it!!!!

Originally Posted by menhir

Mudbone, do you know how many miles it's been since you replaced the gasket? Just curious.

I don't remember specifically how long I waited, but I feel pretty sure I followed the mfg'r recommendation on cure time.

Originally Posted by nyclad

That's the way I'm going right now. Not by choice, but as long as it works.

BTW...low long did you guys wait after applying the RTV before filling the motor oil back in?

I did the cut and RTV repair yesterday morning. I only had to cut it in one place as I only had to clear the tube and not the sprocket in front. Everything's been reassembled (geez...hope I don't find something that I forgot...extra bolts or whatever...) and I'm just waiting for the cure time before I fill the motor oil back in.

Good to hear it's been a few thousand miles and still bone dry.

FYI,

The Permatex RTV Gasket instructions are posted on the package and Permatex's website.

Basically cure time is at least 2h.
Best is to cure overnight per Permatex.

I have a basic rule re Permatex RTV: as long as it does not "stick" to my finger, it is probably OK to torque the bolts.
But again, best is to wait some 2-3h before torquing the bolts:

http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/81725.pdf

Originally Posted by Mudbone

I used aviation snips and then deburred with a file.
It has been nearly a month now and still NO LEAKS!

Me thinks this is the key to success.
Usually, when you cut metal sheet (the gasket is a thin strip of metal sheet), it will slightly bend along the cuts. The OP made sure the mating surfaces are flush, with no bends or nicks.

Originally Posted by doru

Me thinks this is the key to success.
Usually, when you cut metal sheet (the gasket is a thin strip of metal sheet), it will slightly bend along the cuts. The OP made sure the mating surfaces are flush, with no bends or nicks.

Actually if you look closely at the gasket, the gasket is a mix of rubber and metal. The metal is there to prevent over-torquing the rubber. So the metal itself does very little to prevent leak.

The sealing function is from the rubber.

But as you said, good idea to deburr the metal anyway.

Originally Posted by cn90

Actually if you look closely at the gasket, the gasket is a mix of rubber and metal. The metal is there to prevent over-torquing the rubber. So the metal itself does very little to prevent leak.

The sealing function is from the rubber.

But as you said, good idea to deburr the metal anyway.

The metal part of the gasket doesn't bend. I used a pair of heavy duty wire cutters. The rubber edge cut in the same strokes with the wire cutters. I did deburr the metal...with my fingers, but I think the action of tightening the oil pan bolts helps to flatten out any slight imperfections in the gasket anyways.

Originally Posted by nyclad

The metal part of the gasket doesn't bend

For the cross-linked record, this thread contains nice pictures of the oil-pan gasket cutting and of how much bending of the old gasket would need to be done if you tried to fit it in without cutting & without removing the subframe:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil pan gasket repair, partial fail.




Also, for the record, one may very well need an External Torx E30 and/or E10 socket to remove the oil pan itself:
- Help! Need quick question answered on M54 oil pan

OK... Now that it's been a couple of months that you all have been putting some miles on your cars, how is the replaced oil pan gasket (modified cut version) going? Are there any suspected leaks? I'm at 142k miles with my '03 325i and I've got the notorious leak. Cause was planing a 1000 mile trip in two months and don't need it to completely fail on me. I've got this thing fixed soon. Was given a quote of $718 and some change from the cheapest shop in town and I don't exactly want to swallow that much right now.... I'm looking to do it myself. Anyone got an update?

I only cut my gasket in 1 place and did the RTV. I have 350-ish miles on it now. And have been checking every few days, and I placed a large piece of white construction paper under the engine and park over it. No signs of oil so far.

I think Mudbone wrote that he has around 3000+ since his gasket cut and repair in another thread somewhere around here.

Originally Posted by knappy4181

...Was given a quote of $718 and some change from the cheapest shop in town and I don't exactly want to swallow that much right now.... I'm looking to do it myself. Anyone got an update?

knappy,

If you need to do this before long trip, then go ahead.

For your comfort, another E30 fellow did this and the oil pan gasket lasted 150K miles with NO leak! See thread #5:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=5975257

Originally Posted by m123

I did the same thing my old E30 just used sealant in the cut b4 bolting it down and it worked fine drove it another 150k never leaked again. I made just 1 cut in the side middle area between 2 bolt holes.