Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #76  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:15 AM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
I just did this job. The sub-frame doesn't have to be removed completely, just loosen the 4 big bolts that hold it to the chassis and let it hang on the lower control arms. This will give you just enough room to slide the gasket out completely, although you will need a brace for the engine. As far as an engine support brace, most local auto parts stores will rent them for free. They have you pay for them in full and then give you your money back when it's returned.

As far as sealant, I would suggest using "The Right Stuff" over RTV (it has OEM part numbers for the domestic market). I used it on my m20 oil pan in place of a gasket. When the bead was applied and the oil pan was placed on the engine, I dropped the bolt in my hand that was ready to start. Seeing my car was on the lift and no one was around to help, I bent over to pick up the bolt and the pan stayed in place lol.
Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:42 AM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,508
Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
So you didn't cut the gasket?
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:46 AM
nyclad's Avatar
nyclad nyclad is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orange County, CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 477
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
I just did this job. The sub-frame doesn't have to be removed completely, just loosen the 4 big bolts that hold it to the chassis and let it hang on the lower control arms. This will give you just enough room to slide the gasket out completely, although you will need a brace for the engine.

So you didn't have to cut the gasket to slide it in past the oil suction tube? Eh...you do mean the 6 bolts that hold the subrame to the chassis right? Just checkin'.
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:10 AM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
4 10mmx1.5 bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis. You might be talking about the chassis brace?

I have a small independent BMW performance/repair shop so this was done on a lift, but it went like this...

Hook the engine lift eyelet to brace and raise 5mm.

Remove splash shield and chassis brace.

Remove 2 lower motor mount nuts (AllData says upper nuts, worked fine using lower).

Raise engine another 10mm.

Loosen the power steering pump, leaving top bolt slightly threaded so the belt can stay on.

Remove bolt for dipstick and slide up slightly.

Remove 4 nuts for sway-bar and let hang.

Remove 4 bolts that hold subframe and let hang on control arms.

Remove oil pan bolts.

Remove PS and trans cooler line brackets.

The PS pump will move enough to let the pan drop, steering column linkage can remain, transmission cooler lines can remain, you will have just enough room to reach your hand in and guide the gasket around the oil pickup tube, and you will have plenty of room to clean thoroughly.

Installation is reverse procedure.

If doing this in your garage, you can lift the engine with a jack or engine hoist. That's how I replaced all the crankshaft bearings for the v10 in my Excursion last year.

I am about to button it up, maybe I will take some pics for you guys. A few extra minutes and you won't have to cut the gasket.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 06-28-2011 at 11:15 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:45 AM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,508
Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
Very good info. However, I am not sure how to lift the engine with a floor jack - the oil pan is supposed to be the lifting point, but you need to take it off. Where would you place the jack?
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
Reply With Quote
  #81  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:48 AM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
When I started mechanics out of my home garage, I also wondered the same thing since at the time I didn't even own an engine hoist yet, never mind a brace lol.

So being resourceful, I stood a 2"x6" on end and cut a notch in it, put the flat end on the jack and the notched end on the harmonic damper.
Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:00 PM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,508
Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
When I started mechanics out of my home garage, I also wondered the same thing since at the time I didn't even own an engine hoist yet, never mind a brace lol.

So being resourceful, I stood a 2"x6" on end and cut a notch in it, put the flat end on the jack and the notched end on the harmonic damper.
Belt off, I imagine?
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:08 PM
nyclad's Avatar
nyclad nyclad is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orange County, CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 477
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
Are you doing the oil pan gasket job on the e39 with the m52/m54 engine? No big deal, but I was just wondering as I had a total of 6 subframe bolts, including two diagonal bolts that secured the rear of the subframe to the chassis, just behind the swaybar.

Lucky that you got to use a shop lift. I did mine with the subframe 6 inches from my face.
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:14 PM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,508
Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
I believe ForcedFrebird has a M54 engine - it's a 530.
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
Reply With Quote
  #85  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:23 PM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
Sorry, it's a customer's 2005 e46 m54b25. I didn't realize this is the 5 series forum (hence the 4 vs. 6 SF bolts), came across this thread in a search on google to see what others' experienced. e39fanatics also came up quite a bit. Either way there's not really engine subforums here lol. Alldata has the same exact procedure weather it's a 3 or 5 series, though.

Yes, belt off. Was a different car, but same principal. You could always jack the engine by the pan, then use something to keep it there while the work is performed.

Personally I like my BMW's with round headlights,lol, got an 86 e30.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 06-28-2011 at 01:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #86  
Old 06-28-2011, 04:31 PM
nyclad's Avatar
nyclad nyclad is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orange County, CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 477
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
I'm thinking the configuration of an e46 allows the subframe to maybe hang a little lower, giving more room. Here's the thread on my attempt to do it.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...118&highlight=

In the first post, there's a photo that shows the room (or lack of) where I mangled the old gasket removing it. It's the crooked photo I took of the inside of the oil pan. I was trying to find a way to slip the new one in without mangling or bending it too much to where it will start to fatigue at the bent area. I even made a template to practice my method of "fishing" the gasket past the oil tube. Just look at the later posts in that thread.
Reply With Quote
  #87  
Old 06-28-2011, 05:52 PM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
That appears to be about the same amount of room. I took a couple pics and will upload them. When removing the old gasket, I took note of how it came out and reversed for install.

Slid the left front corner in, rotated clockwise (bird's eye) and used one hand to bend ever so slightly to pass the oil pickup, continued rotating until square.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 06-28-2011 at 06:20 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #88  
Old 06-28-2011, 06:47 PM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/q...6%20oil%20pan/
Reply With Quote
  #89  
Old 08-13-2011, 02:05 PM
kyle402 kyle402 is offline
Registered User
Location: Omaha, Ne
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: 97 528i
I'm currently in the midst of changing my oil pan gasket. Bolstered by Mudbone's success, I was thinking I could do this without dropping the subframe. It turns out though that when I got my oil pan unbolted, it only dropped a half inch or so & is hung up on the steering rack near the front side of the pan. I should have been able to see this before I got started but I guess I got ahead of myself. There isn't enough access to get the old gasket out, let alone get a new one in. At this point I'm figuring I need to find a way to drop the subframe. I'm not sure what I'm doing differently from Mudbone. Has anyone else tried this recently?
Reply With Quote
  #90  
Old 08-13-2011, 02:33 PM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
A subframe isn't that difficult to drop and makes the job easier. Leave the strut mounts mounted and undo the subframe bolts and sway bar mounts, will give you a little more wiggle room.
Reply With Quote
  #91  
Old 08-13-2011, 02:43 PM
kyle402 kyle402 is offline
Registered User
Location: Omaha, Ne
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: 97 528i
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
A subframe isn't that difficult to drop and makes the job easier. Leave the strut mounts mounted and undo the subframe bolts and sway bar mounts, will give you a little more wiggle room.
That sounds like good advice. Thanks! Do you think I'll need to disconnect any suspension components? That's what I'm most wary of.
Reply With Quote
  #92  
Old 08-13-2011, 03:10 PM
ForcedFirebird's Avatar
ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Coral Springs
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 813
Mein Auto: 1986 327is
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle402 View Post
That sounds like good advice. Thanks! Do you think I'll need to disconnect any suspension components? That's what I'm most wary of.

See the pics I linked above. I did the job on an e46 m54b25, but it's a very similar process.
Reply With Quote
  #93  
Old 08-15-2011, 01:02 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,917
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle402 View Post
...when I got my oil pan unbolted, it only dropped a half inch or so & is hung up on the steering rack near the front side of the pan. I should have been able to see this before I got started but I guess I got ahead of myself. There isn't enough access to get the old gasket out, let alone get a new one in...
- Your engine mounts may be very old and compressed, bringing the motor further down, so the clearance is less.
I posted a DIY on engine/trans mounts recently.

- Why don't you PM "Mudbone" and see if he can call you to discuss how he did it w/o dropping the subframe?

Last edited by cn90; 08-15-2011 at 01:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #94  
Old 08-31-2011, 11:16 PM
musa's Avatar
musa musa is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Bellevue, WA
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 318
Mein Auto: 528ia, X5 4.4 sports
My '97 528 has been leaking engine oil for the last 4 years or so after switching to synthetic. I switched back to dino but it still leaks. Lately, it's increased from a few drops to many drops now and causing a mess in my garage floor every 2-3 days after cleaning it. I've changed the oil filter housing gasket and tightened the oil pan bolts a little more but to no avail.

Took it to Indy mechanic and he concludes it's got to be the oil pan gasket (not the rear main seal) given the oil pattern splashes underneath the vehicle. Needless to say, I would want to undertake this DIY project having been quoted around $650 for oil pan gasket replacement- I'm an average DIY guy.

Any one used this new technique lately? Any additional tips and experiences/gotchas?

Thanks!

'97 528ia 160K miles.

Last edited by musa; 08-31-2011 at 11:26 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #95  
Old 09-01-2011, 10:29 AM
559eddie559 559eddie559 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Porterville Ca 93257
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 115
Mein Auto: 02' 530i
Snake it!!! i snaked mine under the oil sucker tube and after you tighten everything down the gasket gets back to its normal shape. I have about 8,000 miles and still no leak.. I think i have a perm fix.
Reply With Quote
  #96  
Old 09-01-2011, 12:03 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,917
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by 559eddie559 View Post
Snake it!!! i snaked mine under the oil sucker tube and after you tighten everything down the gasket gets back to its normal shape. I have about 8,000 miles and still no leak.. I think i have a perm fix.
I admire you for being able to snake the gasket under the pickup tube!
Reply With Quote
  #97  
Old 09-01-2011, 02:32 PM
musa's Avatar
musa musa is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Bellevue, WA
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 318
Mein Auto: 528ia, X5 4.4 sports
Quote:
Originally Posted by 559eddie559 View Post
Snake it!!! i snaked mine under the oil sucker tube and after you tighten everything down the gasket gets back to its normal shape. I have about 8,000 miles and still no leak.. I think i have a perm fix.
Details, please, details! How hard was it to snake it in? Did you cut the old one or snake the old one out (I would imagine this helped you how to snake the new one in)? Did you remove the oil-level sensor to help snaking in he new pan gasket?

Thanks for any pointers!

Last edited by musa; 09-01-2011 at 02:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #98  
Old 09-01-2011, 03:13 PM
nyclad's Avatar
nyclad nyclad is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orange County, CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 477
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
A subframe isn't that difficult to drop and makes the job easier. Leave the strut mounts mounted and undo the subframe bolts and sway bar mounts, will give you a little more wiggle room.
That's what I did, and it only gives you maybe an extra inch. That's still not enough to remove the oil pan, but at least it's a little more room.
Reply With Quote
  #99  
Old 09-01-2011, 03:18 PM
nyclad's Avatar
nyclad nyclad is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Orange County, CA
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 477
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by musa View Post
Details, please, details! How hard was it to snake it in? Did you cut the old one or snake the old one out (I would imagine this helped you how to snake the new one in)? Did you remove the oil-level sensor to help snaking in he new pan gasket?

Thanks for any pointers!

I'm not sure how much removing the oil-level sensor would help since it's off to the side, but you might as well give it a try anyways as it couldn't hurt. I bought a new rubber gasket for my oil-level sensor and changed it, but after I had already cut my oil pan gasket and put it in place.
Reply With Quote
  #100  
Old 09-01-2011, 07:34 PM
kyle402 kyle402 is offline
Registered User
Location: Omaha, Ne
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: 97 528i
As I mentioned above, I did this job a couple weeks ago & I just couldn't get enough access without dropping the subframe. One point I would offer caution about. When I finally removed the old gasket, it was it pretty bad shape & I had to scrape some of the old rubber off of the block. If you don't have enough access to do this carefully it could be trouble. I'm thinking about the front & the rear of the pan in particular where access is limited by the harmonic damper & the transmission housing respectively.

Whatever your plans are, I'd hope for the best, but be prepared for the possibility that you may need to drop the subframe once you get started. It's not terribly difficult, but it involves a lot of disassembly.
Let me know if you need any specific pointers & I'll try to help.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms