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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-27-2014, 04:25 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Talking Clutch And Transmission Replacement - sort of a DIY, but more of a journal and tips

Hello,

About to tackle what Pelican Parts considers an 8/10 on skill level, the dreaded clutch replacement on my 03 525i, with a 5sp Getrag 260 transmish.

Added to the insanity is an awful input gear on the transmission that has gone from, 'it whines in every gear except 5th, but I can put up with it', to 'holy crap if I drive this another mile the tranny will seize'. By the way, the time it took putting up with the whine to finally resolving to do something about it was almost 2 years..i know...crazy and foolish. So yes, a complete transmission replacement as well.

So, what I hope to accomplish with this thread is not so much a DIY, but more of a 'personal experience and suggestions' for anyone else hoping to tackle a job like this whose most technical job performed on a BMW up to this point has been cooling system overhaul, engine mounts, or the Beisan Seals Vanos job.

To date - I've picked up my lightly used and very cleaned up Getrag Transmission from Bavarian Auto Recycling (by way of another owner of the transmission who meant to do the work on his car, but instead had the transmission sitting in the crate it arrived in from Bavarian Auto Recyling in his garage for the past year), BMW clutch kit from Mossy BMW in Vista (it's a Luk btw), and misc parts to go with it. Interestingly enough, the kit didn't include an alignment tool so that part I picked up from FCP Euro along with a fuel filter to take advantage of their free shipping offer.

What I need to do - is pick up several jack stands that will get me about 18-22 inches of the recommended clearance I'll need while working under the car, various external torx sockets, gear and bearing puller and probably other clutch related parts that I plan to order as I go. Luckily for me, I picked up an E36 M3 about a year ago and though I hate putting miles on her, I'm glad I have a backup car as I'm in no rush to get this job done.

I'll put pictures in as I proceed. For references, I'm not using a bentley manual and relying on the following links:



http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...ch_Replace.htm

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...h-Flywheel-DIY

My questions are really targetted to those that have done this type of work on jack stands and not a lift in a garage. I know the biggest challenge will be the top bolt on the tranny bell housing (aka bitch bolt). I also know that removing the tranny support and tilting the engine back will aid me in reaching this bolt, but what combination of wobbles, and extensions seem to work best?

Thanks!
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock


Last edited by aa240sx; 06-27-2014 at 04:29 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2014, 06:07 PM
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I used car ramps for mine. Jacked it up and put 4 ramps under it aka one under each tire. Also I put the front ramps so the tip was pointed to the front of the car and the rear ramps so the tips were pointed to the back of the car. This gave the most room under the middle of the car which is where you need it.

We used 4 feet or more of extensions. Use long extensions hooked together if you can and if your lucky enough to have locking extensions they are a god send too. Otherwise you dont know what section will pull free when you pull the extensions off the bolts. If you dont have these then tape the extensions together to avoid this.

Swivel wise I used wobble extension ends some and tradition swivel joints at other times. The reverse torx bolts the thing uses made it a breeze. This is from swapping out the trans in my 323i but should hold true on the e39 too.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:58 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Make sure you download this document and save it:

http://www.cs.wustl.edu/~levine/BMW/...placement.html
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:14 PM
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One thing I failed to explain is why to use the long extensions if possible. You will have issues loosening the bolts from all the flex if you use a bunch of short extensions. Even the long ones flex bad at those lengths. Also causes issues trying to torque the bolts when reinstalling.
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2014, 04:54 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Make sure you download this document and save it:

http://www.cs.wustl.edu/~levine/BMW/...placement.html
Thanks cn90. You always seem to access diys I can't find on an initial search. I will actually be using a friend's transmission jack too.

I also really like the suggestion of using threaded dowels as guides for reinstalling the tranny - genius!
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock

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  #6  
Old 06-28-2014, 04:57 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowz View Post
One thing I failed to explain is why to use the long extensions if possible. You will have issues loosening the bolts from all the flex if you use a bunch of short extensions. Even the long ones flex bad at those lengths. Also causes issues trying to torque the bolts when reinstalling.

4' extensions seems like a lot. The diy from the link cn90 provided suggests getting at the top bolt from the engine bay. If this is possible maybe it doesn't need to be that long?

I have two ramps and will plan to use them but just hope I get the 22" of clearance that is also suggested.
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock

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  #7  
Old 06-28-2014, 06:06 PM
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sixpot_simon sixpot_simon is offline
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This video is wonderfully detailled:


Actually, it scared me off trying to DIY the job!
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:19 PM
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Remember this is from me doing an automatic swap to a 5 speed on an e46. The amount of room needed may be different. But with the e46 it was a ton easier with those long extentions. All loosing and tightening was done from completely behind the transmission.
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  #9  
Old 06-30-2014, 10:05 AM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixpot_simon View Post
This video is wonderfully detailled: ]

Actually, it scared me off trying to DIY the job!
wow the video actually inspired me to do the job! However, it did make me more nervous since I don't have access to a lift. I've actually been looking into DIY garages local to me or any shop that might rent me a lift in the San Diego area.

otherwise, it's jack stands for me.
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock

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Old 06-30-2014, 10:36 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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The levine diy that cn90 linked you to is very detailed for an e39.

I relied on that and a few others for info, but also paid attention to things in the Bentley and TIS.

If you are going in to this with jackstands, get some 6-ton units as they will be big enough to lift the car up high enough to drop the trans without needing to be extended out much like the smaller 2-3 ton units. More stable.

The trans, are you certain it's a Gertrag? I would've thought ZF. The latter weighs about 85-90 pounds with fluid still inside. Theoretically bench-press-able, but safer to use a trans jack or even a floor jack properly modded.

The TIS info will remind you that the engine/trans is delicately balanced atop the engine mounts. You remove the trans mounts/crossmember, the engine/trans will want to fall against the subframe/swaybar. That's why --when you are in the process of removing the trans-- you will need to have something sandwiched in there to protect these parts from each other (I used two inch-thick pieces of hardboard glued together at a 90 degree angle to form an elbow shape) when the crossmember is off, and a jack of some kind to support the front of the engine and keep it from tipping forward when the trans is actually removed. Good idea to remove the clutch fan before the work, as it is imperiled by all this.

The idea of using two "dowels" made of bolts with their hex-heads filed/cut off is good and I used it. Made the job a lot easier for me. I got the right sized bolts at Lowes or somewhere.

On my M52TU, and probably the M54 as well, there's an O2 cable bracket bolted to the right side/center of the bell housing with a small hex-head bolt (10 mm if I recall) from the forward-side of the housing, so be sure to get that little guy because the hex head is not going to be evident if you are looking from the rear side of the housing.

Someone has probably mentioned this but the starter on these sixes is aligned with a small dowel pin sticking out from the bell housing. When you get the starter torx bolts out, the starter and bell housing might still be stuck together for no obvious reason. If so, it's the pin. Good idea to PB Blaster the interface between the starter base and bell housing before you even start this job. The guide pin gets corroded, slowing this entire DIY down (in my case a full day .....).

Be sure to use this thread to ask questions before you get snagged with any unknowns. There are lots of things to come off in this job, and it's going to be an opportunity to replace some of the consumables.
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:56 AM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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great advice pleiades - thanks so much. yes it's a getrag confirmed by VIN at Mossy BMW when I ordered the parts and this weekend when I saw the getrag stamping on the tranny itself.

am definitely aware that the dowel pin for the starter and the top bolt will be a PIA and was also reminded by the seller of my used transmission that there is a 10mm bolt to be aware of that's facing the opposite direction of the external bolts. in fact, he told me from experience that when he did this job he forgot about the 10mm bolt and proceeded to yank the tranny from the engine. the end result was some severe bending of the clutch plate which he bent back. he's always been concerned about driving his car since reinstallation and wanted me to be sure not to make the same mistake he made.

I wasn't planning to remove the fan/fan clutch but given the nature of what will happen when the tranny is removed - I will plan to remove it as one of my first steps.

Did you actually take the top bolt off the bell housing from accessing it through the engine bay as suggested by the levine diy? If so or if not, what was your personal experience in removing that bolt? Would you say of the entire process, that was the hardest job or is removing the tranny because of the starter mounts issue the toughest part of this job?
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock


Last edited by aa240sx; 06-30-2014 at 10:58 AM.
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2014, 11:19 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aa240sx View Post
Did you actually take the top bolt off the bell housing from accessing it through the engine bay as suggested by the levine diy? If so or if not, what was your personal experience in removing that bolt? Would you say of the entire process, that was the hardest job or is removing the tranny because of the starter mounts issue the toughest part of this job?
I believe it's possible to do it as Mr. Levine indicates but I used combinations of two 12-inch extensions and one 6-inch extension with a swivel joint to get at everything working from under the car, straight alongside the trans, as straight as I could access these. I wanted to use a torque wrench with all those bolts but this was the only way. Loosening the top bolts from above should be possible, though. On my car no particular bolt gave me a big problem but the starter dowel pin set me back a day.

I didn't have a trans jack and to be honest, working under the car with only enough space to get the trans down and slide it out on its side is a tight space to work in. I used my floor jack with a piece of hardboard (hole drilled through to accommodate the trans drain bolt) and very carefully, nervously... lowered/reinstalled that way, but having walked around the garage with that trans dangling in my hands, I believe I could've bench pressed it onto my knees/stomach without too much pain. Of course, had I tried that, the thing probably would've slipped out of my hands and knocked out a few teeth.

Installing a new giubo with the nuts on the forward side meant guessing as to torque because I couldn't get my torque wrench into that narrow space. If I did that again, I'd point all the giubo bolt tips to the rear so that I could torque the nuts properly.

I replaced almost every seal between/including the rear main seal and the gasket/grease inside the driveshaft CV joint connected to the diff.

The shift shaft seal was a beach to remove. Had to carefully pick it out, but if doing that again I'd get a proper tool as they are available. The trans input shaft seal (behind the throw-out bearing guide tube base) was too, but wasn't leaking so given the choice again, I'd've left that one alone.

The interference-fit rubber-cored centering sleeve that works with & wears out with the giubo ( but that no one on these forums ever replaces) was not too hard to deal with but I cracked the cast casing of the first one because I tried hammering it into place without something soft (plastic delrin hammer or the like).

Using grease with an exact fit dowel and hammer worked really well getting the pilot bearing (and the above centering sleeve) out.
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:50 AM
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Update - I've got just about all the tools and parts I need now and will diving in this evening hoping to accomplish exhaust, driveshaft and heatshield removal. I'll have about 23-24 inches of clearance with my 6ton jackstands and even have a tranny jack (borrowed from a buddy), though I'm concerned that the jack plus the tranny at even it's lowest setting won't be enough to fit under the car (fingers crossed).

In any case, I do not plan to replaced the DMF (flywheel), but whether I do or not did you guys ever use the special bmw tool to afix/retain the flywheel or modify some steel plate to fix this flywheel. If you're not replacing the flywheel is this tool even necessary?

Thanks
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock

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Old 07-11-2014, 10:36 AM
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Umm I dont remember any special tools besides the plastic alignment tool that came with the clutch. Now when you go to release the self adjusting clutch it had a large allen wrench hole for that which was tricky and very dramatic when it released I might add

I dont remember what size it was but it was LARGE.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:29 AM
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Looking for /clutch DIYs in the bestlinks, I find this:
- DIY for changing the I6 manual transmission clutch (1)

While that reference lists the tools needed ... it's not a bimmerfest reference, so we can't add value to it:
Quote:
Standard tools
    • Floor jack, jack stands and/or car ramps. Rhino 12,000 lb. GVW car ramps aren't tall enough to allow the transmission jack to lower the transmission, so I raise the car higher when the trans is out.
    • transmission jack: I used this floor jack adapter from Harbor Freight
    • floor jack or blocks to support muffler
    • 8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm, 16 mm, and 18 mm hex head sockets
    • 13 mm, 15 mm, and 18 mm combination wrenches
    • E10, E12, and E14 external Torx sockets
    • 5 mm and 6 mm hex key (Allen) wrenches
    • some long extensions, at least 20" total
    • medium-large flat-blade screwdriver
    • hammer
    • pry bar
    • torque wrench
  • Special tools purchased
    • aliging arbor, such as LuK CT-1011
  • Special tools made/improvised
Since that link is to a non-bimmerfest URL, which limits us because we can't add value over time to that link, I'm gonna swap that non-bimmerfest link out with this thread, if folks don't mind - for the bestlinks:
- DIY for changing the I6 manual transmission clutch (this thread)

See also:
- DIY for changing the I6 manual transmission clutch (525i) (528i) & a BMW M5 clutch DIY (1) & how long the OEM LUK BMW dual-mass flywheel lasts (1) & a clutch delay valve (CDV) delete (1) & replacing the motor mounts, aka transmission holders for the BMW E39 I6 (1) & engine mounts for the V8 (1) & what brake/clutch hydraulic fluid should you use (1)& what manual transmission fluid should you buy (1) & how to replace the manual transmission fluid (1)
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File Type: pdf http___www.cs.wustl.edu_~levine_BMW_Clutch_e39-6cyl-clutch-replacement.pdf (36.1 KB, 10 views)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-11-2014 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:38 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aa240sx View Post
About to tackle what Pelican Parts considers...the dreaded clutch replacement on my 03 525i, with a 5sp Getrag 260 transmish.
Since this is now the canonical E39 I6 thread on bimmerfest for the clutch replacement, please do add as much value as you can by snapping pictures and providing any links that were helpful to you!

Also, ask away on questions so that every question you had (which almost anyone else will also have) will be asked & answered here.

The goal is that everyone else stands on each of our shoulders, together, so we improve our DIYs by incessant incrementalism!

Thanks, and keep us informed about everything!
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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Old 07-12-2014, 08:59 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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asking questions won't be problem, but hopefully providing the answers is what I can accomplish for others. So today was my first official day working on this job.

First thing I did was pop the hood and went it head first and removed the fan clutch.



pretty straightforward job here since I just did a cooling overhaul about 7 or 8 months ago. use of some specific fan clutch tools made this job pretty easy. this is definitely recommended since the engine will need to tilt to allow for an easy removal of the transmission. There will be another related job underneath the car when I have to remove and put aside the lower stablizer bar.

Sorry no picture on this next step (really regret that) but I truly do hope this helps anyone else doing this job. I decided to try and remove a couple of the external torx bolts to the transmission from above and in the engine bay and since my ride would eventually be 2 feet in the air, I figured better to do this part of job before I jack her up. So, I have to say, this is definitely a no brainer as it can easily be done with this tool;

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-96369.html

It's basically a flexible 3/8" ratchet. If you go this route, I would suggest removing the fuel rail plastic cover for just a little more room. You also won't need any extensions either! For me, I was able to remove the E14 Torx (bitch bolt) and E10 torx, no problem.

At this point - I closed the hood and knew I wouldn't be there again until near the end this job. In raising the car, I went with the HF 6ton jacks and got the car up about 20". The recommended for this job is closer to 24", but the car jack I am using is the Arcan 3.5Ton (costco) and can only raise a car up to 21 3/8". This may be an issue later on since I plan to use a transmission jack adapter and jack and will need all the clearance I can get, but it is what it is for now.



I'm a bit freaked out about working under my car for so long, so I'm also adding some insurance in the way of car ramps, other car jacks and as you can see from the picture above, several planks of wood under the rear left tire. This is because the concrete around that area has some sort of removable concrete plate and I didn't want to bother re adjusting my car.

The following shots are pictures of the drive shaft guibo area and some exhaust mounts. I basically got under my car today and pulled the exhaust and heatshield. Again, a straightforward job which was aided tremendously by a car jack, pb blaster, and dewalt electric impact wrench.





The picture below is of the exhaust just below the O2 sensors. Not a tough job to pull the 4 bolts, but I'm wondering if it will be necessary to remove the O2 sensors to do this job. I think these are the post cat sensors and probably OEM so I may end up changing them anyway, but is it required?



And this was my basic last shot for the morning's events -



So, my car is now 2 ft off the ground and in hind sight, I probably should have pulled the gear shifter before jacking it up, but hopefully future readers of this thread will learn from my mistake and do this job very early on in the process and certainly before you jack up the car.

I hope to accomplish, gear shifter removal and driveshaft removal next. There's a lot of threads and discussions on the driveshaft removal generally related to vibration and noise. I have never had any issues (knock on wood) with noise and vibration and certainly don't wish to introduce any by removing and installing the driveshaft in correctly. I understand these vibration issues have something to do with the guibo or the center bearing, possibly center bearing preload.

My questions is, will I have to remove the center bearing to pull the driveshaft? If I have to remove these parts, my plan is to make some marks and do what I can when reinstalling to place them back exactly as I found them!

Thanks!
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock


Last edited by aa240sx; 07-13-2014 at 01:04 AM.
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:57 AM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Was able to get a couple things started last night

1 - Gear Knob & Shifter Removal - pretty straightforward job. In my case, I have an aftermarket knob, so a couple of allen screw turns and that came off no problem. Pulled the boot, weight on the shifter and accompanying foam parts, but stopped there. Need to deal with the plastic cup removal portion and would prefer not to buy another one since I upgraded my shifter a few years back and these pieces are still perfect to me.

2 - driveshaft removal - sorry no pictures here, but I am certainly quite frustrated at what I thought would be a much easier job. I started by taking some paint and aligning the rear part of the drive shaft to the ujoint coupler and then started making my paint marks on the guibo. I know that the guibo not only has a specific orientation but that the 6 bolts and their orientation are critical too, so I opted to simply mark each bolt, to ensure everything goes back in place as I found it. These bolts were excessively difficult to remove. The 1/2" craftsman sockets I was using were to thick to fit onto the bolts without hitting the driveshaft so I went with the 3/8" 15mm socket, a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, a 1/2" wobble extension and 1/2" wrench and yes I added a piece of 18" pipe to the wrench. In hindsight, I should have used my trusty impact wrench, but I didn't want to risk marring the driveshaft. anyway, was able to remove all six bolts, but could see right away a ton of whitish residue on them, so some corrosion seems to be the culprit and the PB blaster spray that I put on them the day before seemed to not penetrate the entire bolt. My advice to anyone planning to do this job is soak the bolts with PB the day before and use an impact wrench. With the guibo now removed of all bolts, I turned my attention to the rear part of the shaft, basically removed the 2 bolts holding the center bearing and that allowed the u-joint to drop the shaft into a v configuration. This should have allowed me to pull the shaft from the tranny first, then pull the shaft from the rear, but I wasn't getting enough of a V and was too tired to continue on. So I have left it basically unfinished..so I can figure out what I did wrong.

Did some research this morning, watched Otto on his Bavauto video and realized that there was a heatshield that was keeping the ujoint on the rear part of the driveshaft from allowing the ujoint to fully bend, ugh. More work tonight.

Oh - one other note. I am doing this job entirely by myself, but if you have a buddy around it will make removing the guibo removal a lot quicker since you have to put the e-brake on each time you remove a bolt or you won't have the leverage you need because the driveshaft has to be locked inplace to remove the guibo bolts and you have to reposition those guibo bolts to allow for access with your trusty wrench/socket of choice each time you've removed one.
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock


Last edited by aa240sx; 07-14-2014 at 10:15 AM.
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2014, 11:33 PM
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Update - completed the driveshaft partial removal. I say partial because though I partially attempted to pull the rear part of the driveshaft I decided 'wtf', my center bearing is fine, I don't want to mess with aligning the rear part of the driveshaft to the u-joint and I can just as easily zip tie this away and still pull the tranny, so that is what I opted to do.



I also pulled the reverse plug wiring and the hydraulic clutch and pb blasted the external torx bolts.

Hopefully, the tranny gets pulled tomorrow. Here's a teaser shot of the 'new to me' tranny sitting in the tranny adapter on top of a carjack.



This tranny came to me through Bavarian Recycling in Rancho Cordova, CA. I've been told it has an issue with 5th gear. Not the gear itself, but shifting into it is not 'confidence inspiring'. I would prefer to avoid any money shifts in this tranny, so will proactively be doing a shift detent repair as well. The DIY helping me in my efforts can be found here.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=809427

That's it for now.
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock


Last edited by aa240sx; 07-14-2014 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:57 PM
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Replacement trans sure is clean
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  #21  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:45 AM
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crowz - not so clean anymore. no pics (sorry), but I did some prep work on the 'new to me' tranny, so now it's full of greasy handprints, probably wipe her down though once it's installed.

update on the install so far - basically, I'm now over 1/2 way done with this job. Last night, I started the prep work to get the new tranny reinstalled. This included

1 - replacing the pin for the clutch fork. best way to remove the old pin is to bang it out with a small screwdriver from the outside of the transmission. don't try to lever it out with a screwdriver or pliers
2 - replacing the spring for the pin and clutch fork.
3 - inserting the new throwout bearing. applied very minimal amount of anti-seize to the mating surfaces
4 - replaced the old seal for the shifter shaft that goes into the transmission. - this is much harder than it seems because you have to remove the 'ball joint' that sits on the shift and this is held on with a metal circular clip. taking this on and off took forever using my bare hands and a couple screwdrivers. Pulling the seal was a simple matter of using a flat screwdriver, inserting new seal I just used a extended 15mm socket for an improvised drift tool
5 - on my transmission, I have a bad 5th gear spring so I also worked on fixing this by taking the spring, pin, washer and c-clip mech from the old tranny (which was working perfect) and put it in this tranny. followed the advice from here, http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=809427. pretty straightforward job. replaced the old seal with a new one and viola! no more limpy 5th gear action. I could tell immediately that after fixing this issue, the shifter had good resistance when in neutral and that there was really good resistance with shifting to 5th and that when in neutral the shifter sits right between 3rd and 4th.

that's it for now.
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock


Last edited by aa240sx; 07-17-2014 at 10:49 AM.
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  #22  
Old 07-18-2014, 08:48 AM
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Update - Finished installing the transmission last night. Took quite a bit of finessing, but did use my trusty tranny adapter and jack. I should point out that I did not remove the lower stabilizer bar, nor did I use anything to support the engine. I did make sure the tranny was supported for fear of messing up the input/output shaft, but at least for me, the support seemed to make putting the tranny on more difficult. When installing the tranny, I basically sat on a creeper right under the tranny with the tranny adapter behind me supporting the back half of the tranny and my legs facing towards the front of car. Tranny itself was inline and tilted slightly up. I crept it over the stabilizer bar and focused on 'walking it' in with my two hands at 9am and 3pm on the bell housing. I got her as close as a 1/4" from mating, kept trying to get a complete attachment but gave up. Inserted a couple of the bolts on opposite ends of each other to finish the job. Turned each bolt carefully just to be sure I wasn't forcing the tranny on, but there was no resistance so I started to work on the starter bolts. Like others, the starter was challenging for me too. Trick is definitely to get it on the dowel first. I used my hands entirely to get it lined back up and you will do the job mostly blind if you go this route. Once all the bolts were on, I torqued to spec. I should also point out that the types of bolts used on the Getrag tranny are different than the ZF, so definitely have a bentley manual available for reference. Most of the external torx bolts were M10/M12 grade.

After the tranny was in, I proceeded to install the clutch slave and reverse plug.

Installing the clutch is pretty straightforward. As I was not replacing the flywheel, I just cleaned all the old clutch material off of it (there was tons of dust in there). My order of install went, LuK adapter inserted, clutch plate inserted, pressure plate inserted onto alignment dowels, installed six pressure plate screws, torqued to spec, used 14mm hex socket to pull the lock plate, then reinserted screw into LuK adapter to remove it from the splines.

Had some remaining time, so decided to reinstall the transmission mount, shifter linkages and even get started on the guibo and driveshaft. As far as the guibo, the trick for me was make sure the arrows on the guibo point to a flange. Another way to look at it, is make sure the beefier parts of the guibo are paired when using the bolts for the driveshaft flange and tranny flange. I also did install it the way I found it, which is alternating bolts with dacramet washers against the bolts. I used the original bolts, but bought new lock nuts.

This morning, I installed the shifter and retested the shifting and all is well.

Will be wrapping this job up today/tomorrow and will let you all know if the job resulted in a successful result on the road.
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock


Last edited by aa240sx; 07-21-2014 at 10:32 AM.
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  #23  
Old 07-18-2014, 09:00 AM
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Gratz ! Glad it went smoothly.
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:54 AM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowz View Post
Gratz ! Glad it went smoothly.
thanks - actually used your sequence for installing the clutch and pressure plate from another thread.

The thing I would really like to streamline is when I go to tighten each of the six guibo bolts. As I'm doing this job by myself, I basically don't have someone available to put on the e-brake to stablize the driveshaft while I'm tightening the bolts, so I have to crawl under the car and out of the car anywhere from 6-12 times so that the bolt I tighten is positioned so I can reach it with a spanner wrench and socket! ugh.
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- 2003 525I Sedan - Manual Tranny, M-tech Bumpers Front/Rear, shadowline, M5 Mirrors, 19" Miro 279's, NNR Coilovers, Front lip, 50% tint, Dinan ECU Stage II, Dinan CAI, Dinan Free Flow Exhaust, DICE Ipod, Connects2/Parrot Bluetooth, SSK Kit, AC Schnitzer Shift Knob, CDV Delete,
- 2008 R350 Mercedes Wagon
- 1998 M3 Coupe - Manual Tranny, completely stock

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  #25  
Old 07-18-2014, 10:37 AM
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I was lucky and my son in law came over and helped. I wish Id made a bunch more pics during the swap but it was almost 100 degrees and we didnt even have shade so hanging around for pics just wasnt in the cards

If I do another one for someone hopefully I will have my shop built by then.
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