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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:25 AM
autiop autiop is offline
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Patching, plugging a run flat tire

Anyone had any experience patching or plugging a run flat tire. Apparently once a run flat is punctured the proper protopcl is to replace. Sine the other 3 tires have 17000 miles on them i am reluctant to do this unless trying to patch is a no go. I am driving a 328ix coupe 2012.
autio in upper michigan
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:32 AM
grijo grijo is offline
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If the puncture is in the treat area, you should be able to plug it. I don't know if you can patch it.
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:45 AM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autiop View Post
Anyone had any experience patching or plugging a run flat tire. Apparently once a run flat is punctured the proper protopcl is to replace. Sine the other 3 tires have 17000 miles on them i am reluctant to do this unless trying to patch is a no go. I am driving a 328ix coupe 2012.
autio in upper michigan

What grijo says.

HERE
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  #4  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:56 AM
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need4speed need4speed is offline
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If it is in the sidewall, it can't be fixed safely. If it is in the tread it can be plugged. N4S
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:30 AM
wilt wilt is offline
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A run flat needs to be replaced simply because a repair shop has no idea if it was RUN WHILE FLAT, damaging the sidewalls. If you have a puncture with a slow leak, you CAN repair via plug and patch but will have difficulty with a repair shop simply taking YOUR WORD for it that it has not been run while flat!
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Old 09-18-2014, 10:32 AM
Steve_C Steve_C is offline
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I just had to plug one runflat recently, I need to get it off the rim now to be patched (in addition to the plug). So far, so good. I did research to see if plug & patch was OK for runflats, did not find anything negative. I did not drive on it in runflat mode (no air). Had a slow leak & took the screw out after pulling into my driveway.
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:36 AM
Tom K. Tom K. is offline
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I found a slow leak in a RFT 2 years ago and refilled it so that it was never run below 30 lbs. (I carry a compressor for just this reason).

It was plugged by a tire shop and has lost no air in the last 15,000 miles.

Tom
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Old 09-18-2014, 12:20 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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I have a patch on one of my winter all season RFTs.

Majority of places won't patch or plug an RFT even if it's in the center of the tread.

I patched it on my own so I take all responsibility if it fails.
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  #9  
Old 09-18-2014, 07:27 PM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilt View Post
A run flat needs to be replaced simply because a repair shop has no idea if it was RUN WHILE FLAT, damaging the sidewalls. If you have a puncture with a slow leak, you CAN repair via plug and patch but will have difficulty with a repair shop simply taking YOUR WORD for it that it has not been run while flat!

Y'know, the thought occurs: If a run flat does run flat, the run flat can't run flat no mo'!

So. Do they become Non-Run Flats?

Tell ya, having run a pair o'Potenza OEM RFT's way too long, refilling along the way, the ride never improved! So maybe not. But if not, why do we believe sidewalls lose their Mojo?
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Old 09-19-2014, 04:45 AM
Steve_C Steve_C is offline
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Seems that when a run flat is in run flat mode, (defined as under 15psi to 0 psi), the tire's structural intergrity can be compromised, and the problem is that it is difficult to determine by physical inspection......check out this great article & chart published by TireRack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=226
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Old 09-19-2014, 07:30 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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That's a good point.

The tire I patched had a slow leak and the nail was still in the tire so it never went completely flat. Kept getting down to 20psi but never lower before I patched it
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2014, 08:32 AM
Wongway Wongway is online now
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Yeah, plugged a run flat within 2 months of getting my car. Never ever had a problem with it at all.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:51 AM
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Zooks527 Zooks527 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_C View Post
Seems that when a run flat is in run flat mode, (defined as under 15psi to 0 psi), the tire's structural intergrity can be compromised, and the problem is that it is difficult to determine by physical inspection......check out this great article & chart published by TireRack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=226
This is also why you absolutely need to have TPMS with run-flats. If it loses pressure on the highway and you don't realize it, you can get some nasty failure modes after driving for a while.
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:46 AM
autiop autiop is offline
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Patched the run flat

Thanks for all the input. Got the run flat patched and I don't feel leery about running it at "normal" driving speeds.
autio in the UP of Michigan
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  #15  
Old 02-25-2015, 08:51 PM
LogicalPosition LogicalPosition is offline
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Mein Auto: 2011 328i S Xdrive
Winter Hazards

I rarely get flat tires. The few times in 50 years of driving, I was usually able to properly plug the screw or nail hole with success. Ditto for tires I repaired for friends and customers.

Just last week my TPMS came on unexpectedly. Sure enough the driver's rear had gone from 40 to 26 lbs. I filled the tire to 40 psi, and drove another 100 miles/4 days. Again the TPMS warning lit up, and this time it triggered at 30 psi. I had RESET the TPMS system after I topped the tires with the 1st TPMS light. It appears the TPMS triggers at a loss of about 10 PSI. As you can imagine, I found a small sheet metal screw barely puncturing the skin of the tire, having settled in pretty well in a thick tread about 2 inches from the outer sidewall. It appears it may have been there for a short while. From what I surmised I picked up this screw from a pile of snow that a plow deposited in the roadway, a WINTER HAZARD.

What I used to "plug" the hole was a Victor brand plug kit using the thick "rope" type plug which is coated with a tar like substance. I have never had a good experience with those rubber plugs, BTW, the steel belts tend to sheer those pretty quickly. The reaming tool is essential for properly sizing and prepping the hole to be repaired. I can't say it was an easy task for an older person, I know my wife could never have performed the task. I'm confident the repair will hold, in fact I immediately took the vehicle out onto my "test track" and ran it up to 90mph 3 times. I intend to monitor the PSI in that tire carefully for the rest of it's useful life. With only 14k miles on these ContiProContact SSR tires, I feel I can eek out another 5-6K out of them even with my balls to the wall driving style. I'll update the thread if I experience a failure, should I survive.
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  #16  
Old 02-25-2015, 09:48 PM
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pointandgo pointandgo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicalPosition View Post
I rarely get flat tires. The few times in 50 years of driving, I was usually able to properly plug the screw or nail hole with success. Ditto for tires I repaired for friends and customers.

Just last week my TPMS came on unexpectedly. Sure enough the driver's rear had gone from 40 to 26 lbs. I filled the tire to 40 psi, and drove another 100 miles/4 days. Again the TPMS warning lit up, and this time it triggered at 30 psi. I had RESET the TPMS system after I topped the tires with the 1st TPMS light. It appears the TPMS triggers at a loss of about 10 PSI. As you can imagine, I found a small sheet metal screw barely puncturing the skin of the tire, having settled in pretty well in a thick tread about 2 inches from the outer sidewall. It appears it may have been there for a short while. From what I surmised I picked up this screw from a pile of snow that a plow deposited in the roadway, a WINTER HAZARD.

What I used to "plug" the hole was a Victor brand plug kit using the thick "rope" type plug which is coated with a tar like substance. I have never had a good experience with those rubber plugs, BTW, the steel belts tend to sheer those pretty quickly. The reaming tool is essential for properly sizing and prepping the hole to be repaired. I can't say it was an easy task for an older person, I know my wife could never have performed the task. I'm confident the repair will hold, in fact I immediately took the vehicle out onto my "test track" and ran it up to 90mph 3 times. I intend to monitor the PSI in that tire carefully for the rest of it's useful life. With only 14k miles on these ContiProContact SSR tires, I feel I can eek out another 5-6K out of them even with my balls to the wall driving style. I'll update the thread if I experience a failure, should I survive.
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2015, 11:49 PM
DozerDan DozerDan is offline
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Originally Posted by LogicalPosition View Post
I can't say it was an easy task for an older person, I know my wife could never have performed the task.
I put 7 pugs in a skid steer tire a few weeks ago, talk about a work out.


I have never had an issue plugging any tire, and i have done more than i can count
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2015, 02:48 PM
Three_thirty_I Three_thirty_I is offline
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One of my previous cars (other brand of car) had a total of 6 punctures in the 4 years that I owned it, and all were rear tyres since most of the time rear tyres "collect" what the front tyres throw up. Each time I had the tyres plugged with the mushroom type of patch fitting from the inside. The only problem I had was with one of the tyres that was indeed punctured too close to the shoulder, and as a result it developed a bulge that would most likely result in a tyre failure later on. So this prompted me to replace the tyres which weren't all that great anyway, and the punctures continued...

Now with RFT's, the problem is that it all depends on the above, plus, if they have been driven while low on pressure (or completely deflated). And the other problem is that the TPMS system often only detects the drop in pressure a bit later on, and usually after braking (at least that's what I have observed), in which time the RFT sidewall has already "worked" and may now be compromised. And it's for this reason as well as if the RFT HAS been driven on in a deflated state that most tyre repair places will not be willing to plug the puncture. This is why I have a space-saver and my own form of mobility kit, so if a tyre is losing pressure I can at least pump it up and limp the car home or to a tyre repair place. If the tyre is not able to hold pressure effectively, then I would make use of the space-saver. But the idea is to prevent the sidewall from becoming compromised. Then I would take responsibility for the decision to have the tyre repaired so that the tyre repair place cannot be blamed, which is fair. In reality, I personally think that if a normal tyre can be repaired, then as long as the sidewall of the RFT is not compromised, there is no reason why it cannot be repaired.

My other gripe regarding all of this is that you often see cars where one tyre has been replaced at some point, so you sit with different tyre diameters potentially causing handling issues and damage to the diff(s).
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:09 PM
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I had my plugged temporarily then took tire out for proper patching later

Plugging is fine... in the long run it may be safer to have it patched properly
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:43 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Originally Posted by DozerDan View Post
I put 7 pugs in a skid steer tire a few weeks ago, talk about a work out.


I have never had an issue plugging any tire, and i have done more than i can count
That's cruel man. How can you stuff 7 pugs into a tire?
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:56 AM
wilt wilt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverX3 View Post
I had my plugged temporarily then took tire out for proper patching later

Plugging is fine... in the long run it may be safer to have it patched properly
According to this illustration from Tire Rack's web site, a 'correct repair' entails BOTH a plug in combination with a patch



Plug+patch fully meets NHTSA guidelines. But Continental states that even a 'proper repair' (plug+patch) will void the tire warranty, while others (Bridgestone, Michelin) state that a 'proper repair' leaves the original tire warranty intact.

Last edited by wilt; 02-27-2015 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:01 PM
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pointandgo pointandgo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilt View Post
According to this illustration from Tire Rack's web site, a 'correct repair' entails BOTH a plug in combination with a patch



Plug+patch fully meets NHTSA guidelines. But Continental states that even a 'proper repair' (plug+patch) will void the tire warranty, while others (Bridgestone, Michelin) state that a 'proper repair' leaves the original tire warranty intact.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:15 PM
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SilverX3 SilverX3 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilt View Post
According to this illustration from Tire Rack's web site, a 'correct repair' entails BOTH a plug in combination with a patch



Plug+patch fully meets NHTSA guidelines. But Continental states that even a 'proper repair' (plug+patch) will void the tire warranty, while others (Bridgestone, Michelin) state that a 'proper repair' leaves the original tire warranty intact.
Plug-in is not legal in some states in Australia
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2015, 07:34 PM
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pointandgo pointandgo is offline
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Plug-in is not legal in some states in Australia
Some sanity down-under! Some U.S. states are contemplating similar legislation.

What part of dismounting a 'run low' tire and inspecting the tire's interior for damage is not understanadable or 'common sense' mate?
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MBz W140 S320
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(unmentionables in between)
'71 AMC Javelin (4-Spd Stick on the floor)
'67 Pontiac Firebird 'cabrio' (1st car - "the leaker")
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  #25  
Old 02-28-2015, 09:09 AM
ramblinman ramblinman is offline
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I have had a run flat tire plugged with no problems. i read somewhere it should be patched and plugged, but I never found anyone who would do that. No tire can be patched or plugged within a certain distance of the sidewall, 1 inch I think. Plugging an RFT is expensive.
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