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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:23 PM
UglyDuckling UglyDuckling is offline
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Location: Kansas
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Mein Auto: 2011 BMW 328i Coupe
Couple questions about wheel bolts

Hi, I had an issue come up as I was doing some work on my car. Iím willing and able to do simple jobs on my car like changing rotors/pads, engine oil, differential, spark plugs, bleed brakes, etcÖ but I am still a complete newb on many things and am trying to learn.

Earlier today I took my car to an auto skills shop and did a few things, one of them was the attempted installation of wheel spacers. Unfortunately, what should have been a very easy thing ended up not being done.

As I screwed on the bolts back on to my rear left wheel through, I noticed that it was very hard to get on. Unfortunately it didnít go in all the way. Iím going to assume that the threading, either in the rotor or wheel bearing(?) is bad (cross threading?) Iím not sure what could have caused this, but this was my first time working with the wheels on this car and Iím not happy with the condition of the bolts. The wheel bolts are in horrible condition with heads having lost their crisp edges, I intend on replacing these ASAP as well. I did recently have 313 wheels installed by a local tire shop, donít know if they were careless.

But anyways, I have two questions:
1)Does the wheel bolt ever go into the wheel bearing, and possibly more items? ?

2) If it does, Iíll get OEM replacement as well as take the opportunity to get new rotor/pads all around since its due for a change later this year. Now, how difficult would the wheel bearings be for a DIY? It doesnít seem to look too difficult from some of the research Iíve done, but Iím hoping to hear from someone thatís done it before on a 328i or similar.

I plan on getting this done ASAP since I donít want to drive around with a poorly fitting bolt on my rear wheel. Anyways, I appreciate any feedback on this and I apologize if these are dumb questions,

Last edited by UglyDuckling; 04-23-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:53 AM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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Location: Renton, WA
 
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Posts: 4,699
Mein Auto: 335d, 328d, Toyota T100
Quote:
Originally Posted by UglyDuckling View Post
...
As I screwed on the bolts back on to my rear left wheel through, I noticed that it was very hard to get on. Unfortunately it didn't go in all the way. I'm going to assume that the threading, either in the rotor or wheel bearing(?) is bad (cross threading?) I'm not sure what could have caused this, but this was my first time working with the wheels on this car and I'm not happy with the condition of the bolts. ...

But anyways, I have two questions:
1)Does the wheel bolt ever go into the wheel bearing, and possibly more items? ?
The shop that put on the wheels the last time probably used an impact wrench and didn't notice that they were started cross-threaded. Happened to me once with my impact wrench - I don't do that any more.

The wheel bearings are way further inboard than can be affected by the wheel bolts. Don't worry about it. Just get some bolts that are the same length as OEM, and make sure they are square as you put them in. The first time a clean bolt is put into a place that had a cross threaded one in it is going to be kind of hard, as the threads have shavings in them, and may be a bit bunged up also.

If you can find a die for reaming out the hole's threads, maybe should do that before putting on the wheel/new bolts.

Last edited by floydarogers; 04-24-2016 at 09:01 AM. Reason: tap
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:09 PM
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08 335Ci 08 335Ci is offline
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Mein Auto: 2008 335Ci
You don't want to try and straighten buggered threads with a bolt or even a cutting tap. They make what's called 'thread chasers' just for this task. The wheel 'hub', 'flange' or what ever you want to call it is made of hardened steel as is your wheel lugs so you have to treat them right.

You have a couple ways of doing this. The best way would be to remove the flange, chock it in a vise and work your chaser from the 'inside out'. But that's probably a bit past your skill level. So ... remove the caliper and rotor, get a good work light, plenty of oil, your thread chaser and a set of new lug bolts. CAREFULLY start the chaser by hand with plenty of oil. When the chase gets tight to turn, use a tap handle (easier to keep straight then with a wrench). Turn in the chaser about 1/8 turn, then back it out 1/4 turn. This will help clean out any chips you may have. It's going to be a long process of turning the chase in and backing it out. It's not a bad idea to stop and check your progress every couple of threads you restore. When you get done with one hole, try a new lug in the hole. It should go in by hand. If not, double check your work.

You may have to remove your emergency brake shoes if the chaser is a bit long. In the future, don't let anyone use anything other then a torque wrench to tighten your lugs.

For an idea of what a thread chaser looks like, look here. Of course you'll have to make sure you get the proper size and pitch for your application.
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