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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-07-2011, 05:18 AM
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Piston_broke Piston_broke is offline
What was that noise??
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Fuel Pump - Remove, Repair, Reinstall

Does anyone know if our fuel pumps can be repaired or made good in lieu of simply tossing it and replacing it with a new or used one?

What exactly goes wrong with them that makes them not send fuel to the business end?

Currently my fuel pump's playing up and I'm looking at options before dropping something in the vicinity of $300 for an oem pump.


Cliffs: Surprised Blue Bee hasn't included any mention of the fuel pump in the fantastic write ups that have been put together thus far...
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2011, 05:32 AM
franka franka is offline
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I'm sure they can be rebuilt but you most likely do not have the precision machine tools, or easy access to the internal componets that you would want to replace. And if you did it would it would no doubt cost more than a new pump. New OEM pumps may also have small improvements in them.

There also may be rebuilt units available. Personally I would go with a new unit on such an important/critical pc of equipment.

But on the otherhand, the problem with your current pump may be easily fixable, depending on what it is. Maybe just a poor/loose/coroded electrical connection.

How may miles are on that pump?
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Last edited by franka; 04-07-2011 at 09:35 AM.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2011, 06:00 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston_broke View Post
Surprised Blue Bee hasn't included any mention of the fuel pump in the fantastic write ups that have been put together thus far...


This is what a /fuel pump(F3) netted me in the bestlinks thread:

- DIY for testing (1) and replacing the fuel pump (1) & your available options (1)

I guess, what you're saying is that none of those helps you with rebuilding your own fuel pump. And, you're probably right because that wasn't the search criteria.

What I suggest is you search for "E39 fuel pump rebuild DIY" (or something to that effect) and let us know if/what you find anything useful. If so, I'll be glad to 'add' any fuel pump rebuilding DIYs to the bestlinks so the 'next' person stands on your shoulders.

I just did a few cursory google searches to see what's out there.

It seems I can find fuel pump rebuilding DIYs in the first page of google if I omit BMW, but once I add BMW to the search terms, the first page of google only shows replacements (I didn't go further than a first page because I'm not in need of it myself ... but anyone contemplating rebuilding their own fuel pump should go further than the first page results).

So, we may have to see if, for example, someone else (MB perhaps?) uses the same fuel pump as we have.

Do you have the manufacturer of the fuel pump & the model handy?

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  #4  
Old 04-08-2011, 08:49 PM
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Piston_broke Piston_broke is offline
What was that noise??
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Thanks BB,
I read through those links and was surprised that this (1) was well described however not one pic.

I've found a second hand oem pump for $190 (approx 60k on it) from my indy. I'll take some pics when I do the job.


My indy suggested I do the fuel filter at the same time. Said use nothing but a brand new one.

I had a read through this rather amusing DIY and am better prepared to do the change over.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2011, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston_broke View Post
was surprised that this (1) was well described however not one pic.
I'm sorry about that.

I think your question is perfectly valid. Why 'not' learn if we can 'rebuild' a fuel pump.

cn90 and aioros rebuilt their alternators; someone rebuilt their DISA; poolman 'rebuilt' his VANOS; some even try to rebuild a CCV. Why not see if there is a DIY for rebuilding a BMW fuel pump.

Keep up the good work expanding our knowledge!
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  #6  
Old 04-09-2011, 06:52 AM
franka franka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Why 'not' learn if we can 'rebuild' a fuel pump.
Yes by all means, keep learning and trying. But in post #2, I outlined why not.

Let me add that pumps have precision gears and bearings in them, that wear out along with the housing they ride in. To rebuild such a pump requires rebuilding the very close tolerances between these components, that makes them work in the first place.

If the BMW pump is not a gear type pump, then they may be ecomically repairable.

Problems besides the precision components may be fixable, as mentioned previously.
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Last edited by franka; 04-09-2011 at 07:21 AM.
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  #7  
Old 04-09-2011, 07:18 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franka View Post
I outlined why not
Hi Frank,

BTW, for something like a fuel pump, I, personally, would never consider rebuilding it. I'd just buy a new fuel pump just as I buy all the necessary tools I need whenever I need them.

But, it still would be 'interesting' (wouldn't it?) to 'see' what a rebuild would entail if someone is willing (like the OP) to try?

Once we see that writeup, then we (the royal 'we') might likely find that:
  • BMW fuel pumps have precision gears and bearings in them
    • which wear out along with the housing they ride in.
  • We might not be able to meet BMW tolerances
    • which is what makes them work in the first place.
At the very least, I'd be interested in an E39 fuel-pump autopsy (to see how they work in the first place).

The OP would also benefit from a fuel pump autopsy. I did a few searches just now, but didn't find anything with pictures showing the inside of the BMW fuel pump.

But, I do agree that your point (that it may very well not be feasible to rebuild the E39 fuel pump) may be the case. Which might be why the OP hasn't found the perfect DIY yet!

To the OP:
If/when you end up replacing (or rebuilding) your fuel pump, it would be great to see pictures of the insides and a description of how it works.
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  #8  
Old 04-14-2011, 01:13 AM
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Piston_broke Piston_broke is offline
What was that noise??
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This thread should actually: Fuel Pump - Remove and Replace.

So I removed and replaced my fuel pump using the 2nd hand one I'd referenced to earlier ($190AU). I believe it had about 60k miles on it, not new but then again not that old.
BB: I never intended to rebuild the pump. I'm a shade tree mechanic at best (on a good weekend).

I found this very helpfull thread over the fence at the neighbours house (bimmerforums.com). It deals with other issues as well pertaining to faulty fuel delivery. I found it ideal for the pump.

Also this you tube vid is more than valuable: as it goes through the process step by step (on an E46).
Sorry I don't know how to place the vid screen up!!


My input from my experience is as follows.

1/ Do this job outside where it's well ventilated. No electrical tools are needed so leave any form of ignition back in the garage.

2/ Make sure you remove the fuel pump fuse (I think it was #54), located in the boot (trunk) RHS.

3/ Both pump lid access points are under a removable thin rubber sheet on top of the rear seat, it is perforated in the shape of the access lids. It needs to be cut (carefully) in order for full removal. The electrical connection is typical of other BMW switch connections on our rides, i.e. a flap that needs to be pulled out a tad.













Yeah I know, I should've grabbed it on the housing not the wires.

4/ The clamp that holds the delivery fuel line in place is not reusable. (Maybe later model bimmers are). Get yourself a 13mm adjustable pipe clamp before you start this easy job.



5/ Take a pic or do a sketch of the pump orientation before or as you remove it. (I struggled and wasted 15 min before I realised I had it the wrong way round when I was trying to reinstall.

6/ Replacing the metal screw lid. If you haven't bothered looking at the above vid then you'll need to do the following;
Loosen the rubber seal around the main plastic lid (after you have lowered the new pump into the tank), that is to say seperate it from the lid. Then seat the rubber seal/ring in its final place. You'll need to push it down firmly nice and flush with the main lid female housing whereby this will allow the main steel cap to rotate and close easily.

If you don't their's no way known that you'll screw the lid back on. Trust me, I wasted at least an hour before I found help 'over the fence'.

As in removal you simply tap the steel cap/lid with a scewdriver untill it has turned a full circle.

The rubber seal is that one hanging loose.


This is removal, install in reverse.


7/ Test. Plug in the terminal at the top of the lid, reinstall the fuel line (with your new clamp), replace fuel pump fuse then start the motor. Test your handy work for leaks before you close it all up.

8/ Pat yourself on the back, for saving some serious coin.
In my case I saved over $600. My indy told me a new pump was around $500 plus install fee. Total at the dealer would have been approx $800!!!

9/ BB asked what the inside looked like


Hope this helps someone in line behind me. Especially in regards to the replacement of the main steel cap/lid.
Next weekend comes a new fuel filter and relay.

Thanks all for your help (links).
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  #9  
Old 04-14-2011, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston_broke View Post
This thread should actually: Fuel Pump - Remove and Replace
I wish everyone thought and acted like you do!

You looked, you tried, then you found good stuff (and told us about it), and you wrote a DIY with pictures to help others!

Now, with your effort, the NEXT person to follow can stand on your shoulders.

Here's the keyword-rich sentence I've added to the bestlinks in response, so that others can find it with a simple /fuel pump(F3) in the bestlinks thread:

- Testing (1) and replacing the fuel pump (1) (2) () (4) (5) & your available fuelpump options (1) & a DIY for replacing the fuel filter (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)

As always, if you know of BETTER links, let me know so others benefit from everyone's knowledge.
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2011, 08:46 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Thanks a lot, Piston Broke. Here's the video embedded. The linked one was so good, I also included Part 1, which shows how to remove the fuel pump. There's a short promotion of the HPF replacement fuel pump, and the actual removal instructions start at about 2:57. There are probably some parts that don't apply to the E39, but overall, I think Part 1 is also useful:



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  #11  
Old 04-14-2011, 01:12 PM
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Piston_broke Piston_broke is offline
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Bobdmac,
Thanks for doing that. I'm not sure how you do that, no doubt it's pretty easy.

Good vids.
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2011, 01:22 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I need to ask a question re Fuel Pump brand, what did you end up using?

1. BMW OEM Assembly: $330!

2. Pierburg Insert Fuel Pump only?

3. Walbro Insert Fuel Pump only?
F20000169 $80-100
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...irst-time.html

Last edited by cn90; 04-14-2011 at 01:31 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2011, 01:30 PM
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Flybot Flybot is offline
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I did an autopsy on my dead pump a while back. Here is the link to it (with pics): http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...opsy-pics.html

Its not worth rebuilding a pump. The other pics of E39 pumps that Ive seen show the same condition: worn out brushes and/or comutator (?) contact area. You may be able to replace the brushes, if you could find the part. But Im not sure about how well you could reassemble the pump. Its not really made to be taken apart, let alone be put back together.

Do it right and get a new pump.
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2011, 01:38 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston_broke View Post
Bobdmac,
Thanks for doing that. I'm not sure how you do that, no doubt it's pretty easy.

Good vids.
I went to the video, then, on my Mac touchpad, did a two-finger click (equivalent of right-click in Windows), which brought up the contextual menu, and chose "copy video URL." Then, in the "Reply to thread" box, I clicked the "link" icon and brought up the little link insertion box and inserted the video URL that I had copied.
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Old 04-14-2011, 03:02 PM
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What's the life expectancy of a fuel pump? (in mileage I suppose?)
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  #16  
Old 04-14-2011, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
I went to the video, then, on my Mac touchpad, did a two-finger click (equivalent of right-click in Windows), which brought up the contextual menu, and chose "copy video URL." Then, in the "Reply to thread" box, I clicked the "link" icon and brought up the little link insertion box and inserted the video URL that I had copied.
Copy link in address bar and paste in post. worksforme
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:30 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Hah! I'll be darned, that works too. Even better.
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Old 04-14-2011, 10:57 PM
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Piston_broke Piston_broke is offline
What was that noise??
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:::Stop Press:::

So the CEO is out doing some shopping when she calls me and says the fuel gauge is sitting right on empty, the car has at least a 1/4 tank of fuel.
She questions my handy work on the fuel pump change over and utters that maybe I should've taken the car to a good mechanic.

I quickly go through forum notes/files that I'd printed out. I came across this which was originally submitted by Q (god bless him).
Apparently after changing a pump and or a float sensor, one is supposed to do the Instrument Cluster Test during which process you have to reset values which gets the gauge working correctly. Did I say that right?

See page 5 for Test 21.

Result = Fuel gauge now behaving as it should.


Bobdmac & bmw_n00b,
Thanks for the heads up on posting a vid. Appreciate it.

cn90,
I bought a 2nd hand oem pump ($190).
I can see at the top of the old pump body it is a Pierburg brand fuel pump.
I assume the replacement is the same.
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:38 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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...Result = Fuel gauge now behaving as it should.
Ta-da! Redemption! I hope your CEO was suitably impressed.
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2011, 07:28 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston_broke View Post
...cn90,
I bought a 2nd hand oem pump ($190).
I can see at the top of the old pump body it is a Pierburg brand fuel pump.
Fuel Pump is one thing I never buy used, UNLESS I know for sure it has very little mileage.
Fuel Pump is a safety item and can get you into trouble far away from home.

But you live in Australia, so prices are high for BMW parts.

From my research many people have used Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (about US $90) with success. Just make sure one buys the Walbro from a reputable dealer (ebay has a whole bunch of faked Walbro).
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  #21  
Old 04-15-2011, 10:05 AM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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where you guys buy Walbro ?
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  #22  
Old 04-15-2011, 10:43 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
where you guys buy Walbro ?
Example of Walbro-F20000169 for $90:

http://www.amazon.com/Walbro-F200001.../dp/B002ZQDQZ8

Always ask the vendor to be sure it is genuine Walbro as there are some faked Walbro out there.


Also check to be sure Walbro-F20000169 is the correct part for your car.
All E39s use the same fuel pump, so if the Walbro-F20000169 fits M5, then it fits the rest of E39s.

Here is the M5 thread:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...irst-time.html
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  #23  
Old 06-29-2011, 12:34 PM
zxcasd zxcasd is offline
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Thanks - my experiences

Thank you so much for this write-up. After 180k miles, my 2002 Beast's original pump toasted. I wish I'd seen the thread sooner - I dropped nearly $400 on a new OES pump from Auto Parts Warehouse (w/overnight shipping) since I didn't know about the Wallbro - but needed to get back on the road so I just installed it today rather than return/reorder.

Quick experiences:

1) The old pump was easy to diagnose as the problem - remove the power connector and measure ohms across the pump contacts, I was getting 12M+. But, just for a cursory check, I also pulled the PWM module ("relay") from the trunk and popped the cover to ensure that there weren't any obviously-toasted chips or traces (there weren't), and tested it at the pump connector (after unlocking the car or turning the key to ON, it should give battery voltage for about a minute and then shut off - it did).

2) That aluminum retaining ring that presses everything down into the gasket was an absolute bitch to remove and re-tighten. The photo seems obvious (actually, it IS obvious - it's that simple) but the videos were invaluable because I thought I was doing something wrong. No, it was just horribly, horribly tough to open. 15 minutes with a hammer and screwdriver, fighting every step of the way, ditto on reassembly. So: if you're doing this and it isn't moving, keep banging it. It WILL move. Opposite sides didn't help (and is extremely difficult on the side toward the front of the car because the metal rises a few inches, preventing a head-on hit).

3) Removing the level sensor part was a bit tricky - it isn't really THAT delicate, but I can see how it might be damaged if you try to force it. When it felt stuck on the way out, I went in with a flashlight and saw how it needed to be wiggled and turned to get it out. Getting it in was annoying, too, but not horrible. I didn't have to worry about precise orientation because, on mine, there's a plastic "key" on the yellow cap toward the rear of the car - only one way that it'll actually fit.

All in all, this took me about 2 hours to complete from start to finish - and that included the 30 minutes banging on the damn ring.

Thanks again, all. The old girl is back in business again, looking forward to the next 100k.

-zxcasd / Tom
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  #24  
Old 06-30-2011, 03:52 AM
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Piston_broke Piston_broke is offline
What was that noise??
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Well done Tom,
You had a good ending at the end of the day. Shame you dropped a few $'s more than you had to.

Maybe a lesson learnt there; Peruse the board before jumping.

Happy cruising friend.
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:46 AM
JimLev JimLev is offline
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Piston Broke, don't know if you found any pics. I didn't click on any of the links, too many of them and not enough time.
Here's a few pics of the fuel pump. Check that the armature spins freely and the bearings are in good shape, don't know if you can get new ones.
The brushes and commutator are the other wear points.
Maybe you'll find some junk stuck in the pump that can be easily cleaned out.
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