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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 07-04-2012, 02:50 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I was remiss in that I should report back that my year-long quest to locate the source(s) of a long-standing lean misfire condition (many codes) was resolved simply by replacing a few rubber hose/tubes/pipes/boots/caps & gaskets.

Specifically:
a) I first replaced all the rubber tubes/hoses/pipes/plugs I could easily get to in the engine bay ... which immediately helped somewhat lessen the frequency of the lean-condition misfire codes ...
- Where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1)

b) I then ran a smoke test ...
- How to make your own smoke machine (1)


c) Which pinpointed a lower CCV vent hose leak ...
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)


d) I also unclogged the dipstick guide tube which was clogged solid (and perhaps was a reason for the CCV vent hose leak) ...
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)


e) Lastly, I replaced the rubber boot which is connected to the ICV & TCV.


Those simple steps resolved my lean condition misfires!

BTW, while I rarely solve problems by replacing components without learning how to test them, I concur that one way to solve perplexing lean condition misfires, at this age of our bimmers, is to simply replace every vacuum-related rubber hose/tube/pipe/boot/cap/gasket in the engine bay.
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-04-2012 at 03:11 AM.
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  #27  
Old 01-04-2013, 06:12 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Yet another cracked #9 endcap over here today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh P. View Post
I believe the piece is #9 here but am not certain. Tech pulled it out by hand, no tool.



As far as the trim, all I can tell you is what he told me, which is that the codes indicated 8-10% below the normal operating fuel to air ratios. I didn't see the readout. I have been noticing poorer in town MPG, though 8-10% would be barely noticeable, just a few MPG.
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  #28  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:54 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Yea, they all do that.
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2013, 09:20 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
Yea, they all do that.
What we need is a comprehensive kit for all rubber to replace in our ageing bimmers:

Seems to me, it would consist of:
a) Bulk tubing of the metric size & best material type for most hoses/lines/tubing
b) All necessary metric endcaps
c) Photographic instructions
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Last edited by bluebee; 01-05-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:50 AM
jkeniley jkeniley is offline
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I just finished replacing all of the hoses on my 2001 525it. I removed the intake manifold to replace the ccv. After putting the car back together and starting it, I noticed very rough idling until the car warmed up. I did not have the rough idle beforehand.

It feels like a vaccum issue so I reinspected my work and found an uncapped "nipple" on the back side of the intake manifold (next to the firewall). The realoem diagram references two different types of caps but does not show how they attach to the manifold. I have one capped nipple, a vacuum hose from the secondary air pump on the second nipple and the uncapped nipple.

Does anyone have a picture of the backside of the manifold showing how the hoses should be attached?

Does it make a difference which nipple you attach the secondary air pump tube (as long as the diameter is the same)?

Does an uncapped nipple create enough pressure loss to cause the rough idle?
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  #31  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:48 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeniley View Post

Stuff deleted

Does an uncapped nipple create enough pressure loss to cause the rough idle?
Yes.
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  #32  
Old 01-11-2013, 05:27 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeniley View Post
I just finished replacing all of the hoses on my 2001 525it. I removed the intake manifold to replace the ccv. After putting the car back together and starting it, I noticed very rough idling until the car warmed up. I did not have the rough idle beforehand.

It feels like a vaccum issue so I reinspected my work and found an uncapped "nipple" on the back side of the intake manifold (next to the firewall). The realoem diagram references two different types of caps but does not show how they attach to the manifold. I have one capped nipple, a vacuum hose from the secondary air pump on the second nipple and the uncapped nipple.

Does anyone have a picture of the backside of the manifold showing how the hoses should be attached?

Does it make a difference which nipple you attach the secondary air pump tube (as long as the diameter is the same)?

Does an uncapped nipple create enough pressure loss to cause the rough idle?
See the photo below. It's taken from below the electric valve. There are 2 small and one large nipples, The hose going to the electric valve goes to one small nipple and the other is capped. I don't think it matters which the hose is attached to, but the photo shows how it was attached on my car. The small caps are 3.5mm and the large is 7mm.

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  #33  
Old 01-11-2013, 09:00 PM
jkeniley jkeniley is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 525it
Thanks Steve.

I went to the dealer today and bought new caps. I set it up as per your picture and all is well.

I can't get over how sensitive the car is to the uncapped "nipple": rough start and lots of hesitation especially when it is cold.

I also think the uncapped "nipple" and the concurrent loss of vacuum was having an effect on shifting.

The cold tranny was shifting like it was low on fluid especially going from 3rd to 4th in a hilly area. Now it shifts correctly.

I was just about to trade the car in and get a newer 535I because I could not figure out the problem. Thanks to all for the very complete tutorial on vacuum hoses.
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  #34  
Old 01-11-2013, 11:56 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeniley View Post
I went to the dealer today and bought new caps..
Since it's fresh in your mind, can you confirm or deny that #9 below is the same as #17 below?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
  1. Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
    • #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
    • #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32" ID)
    • ... stuff omitted ...
  2. Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL
    • 09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)
    • ... stuff omitted ...
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  #35  
Old 01-13-2013, 06:32 AM
jkeniley jkeniley is offline
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It has to be the same part. There are no other "nipples" on that side of the intake manifold.
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  #36  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:13 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
For the record, we just updated the purge valve diagram above based on 16valex' and JimLev's clarifications over here:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > EVAP Purge Valve Flow.
See also:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Purge control valve vac hose help!


By way of cross reference, folks over in this thread today were pondering the same questions we already answered in this thread. Too bad they didn't find this thread, whose whole purpose was to answer the questions BEFORE they're asked!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
While wrestling out the older valve the vac tube that goes to the intake maniford or throttle body came out. I can't for the life of me find where it goes. I've searched the board and I even called bav auto and they got me the picture; it the same pic that I found on realoem.com. Still no luck!

Any help is appreicated; trying to get her back together; so its the end that allows the vapor to be burned by the engine when the valve opens up. I appreciate any help.

Chad
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
where does the number 3 hose connect at?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
cn90 i'm good with the ccv, oil seperator. I need to know about the purge control valve or evap sensor hose routing right behind the power steering holding tank
I didn't see anything in fudman i'm checking jason5driver
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
EVAP system in all cars is very similar.
Hose #3 simply connects to the intake, either upstream or downstream of the throttle plate.
Use a mirror to look for the nipple in the intake throttle housing.
Or run engine and listen for hissing (sucking) noise, you will be able to locate the nipple.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Maybe the "F connector" in Step #5 here:
http://blog.bavauto.com/5434/bmw-m54...30i-525i-530i/
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett9565 View Post
page 3 of jason5driver 4 picture down is what I was looking for! Once i get this back together The last thing i need to figure out is why my care is cutting out at high rpm on full throttle but thats for another day!
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Last edited by bluebee; 04-21-2013 at 10:57 PM.
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