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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #26  
Old 05-11-2012, 04:48 AM
chrisn7 chrisn7 is offline
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Corey - thank you for posting this information, which was written in a very clear, and logical and understandable fashion - I just need a vacuum leak now!
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  #27  
Old 05-11-2012, 10:22 AM
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joyism5 joyism5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irvs740il View Post
what's the best way to remove carbon deposits on valves in intake side....?
I would highly recommend not to use products(like Seafoam) that need to be applied through a vacuum line or straight to the intake. These might detach carb deposits in big chunks, which could fell between cylinder and cylinder walls, and will produce scoring on the walls. My personal experience is described in post #3 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...99#post6391599

Best way to safely clean them is using a gas additive, Ventil Sauber from Liqui Molly. It is used in Europe widely with great results. In USA is available online only (at least nobody heard about it in stores). I purchased it from autohausAZ.com.

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  #28  
Old 05-11-2012, 01:45 PM
irvs740il irvs740il is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joyism5 View Post
I would highly recommend not to use products(like Seafoam) that need to be applied through a vacuum line or straight to the intake. These might detach carb deposits in big chunks, which could fell between cylinder and cylinder walls, and will produce scoring on the walls. My personal experience is described in post #3 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...99#post6391599

Best way to safely clean them is using a gas additive, Ventil Sauber from Liqui Molly. It is used in Europe widely with great results. In USA is available online only (at least nobody heard about it in stores). I purchased it from autohausAZ.com.

THANKS!!!! Excellent stuff and much appreciated input and knowledge..... I love this forum and it's contributors. If anyone is in the SoCal area and needs an extra hand working on their e38 or e39 let me know ..... I strongly believe in the "Pay it Forward" philosophy.....
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  #29  
Old 07-03-2012, 06:15 AM
740Man 740Man is offline
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Thanks all - good information.
New: Re: e38 M62 220K - Tags: CCV, CCV change Tip, Oil Poured in too fast
My DIY thinks the that the extra blow-by at 220K causes extra load on CCV; Got 35K on last change.
Other Possible: Oil change just prior to noticing CCV failure; poured oil in very fast - as fast as oil would drain out of bottle; had seven oil quarts open and ready to pour; heard gurgling and ignored ((((.
? Is it possible that I poured oil in too quickly? Could Oil enter CCV return pipe when pouring oil in too quickly?
Fuel line removed makes access much easier. Replaced torque screws with Hex head - allows change much quicker without intake removal - open end wrench to remove CCV cover.
Tags: CCV - Pour Oil in too fast blows CCV?
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  #30  
Old 07-03-2012, 08:18 AM
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joyism5 joyism5 is offline
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I never heard about something like this and I don't see it possible either.
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  #31  
Old 07-14-2012, 09:53 AM
RayPooley RayPooley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl0s View Post
Hey. Thanks for the informative post. You describe my symptoms (fuel trim) perfectly.
I have been trying to track down vac leaks on my e46 330i for a few weeks now. I already replaced the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket and both intake boots. All of which were badly perished.

Up until today, I was seeing +28 at idle on the short term fuel trims (but 0 on the long terms.. this confused me, but you say that's expected..). This was triggering the "system too lean" codes.
Thanks to a post on another forum, I discovered that the lower oil separator -> dipstick hose was fractured ( see http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551 ). Mine looked like this:

After replacing this hose today, I am now seeing short term fuel trims hovering around 11 - 14% at idle.

Obviously this is much better, and will not trigger the "system too lean" codes, but I think this means I still have a small vac leak. I guess due to the size of the vac leak that it only affects idle mixture, and actually the car appears to run fine, but I want everything to be as it should be because the car has an LPG (autogas) conversion that is also problematic, but I want to make sure the petrol side is perfect before attempting to fix the autogas side.

I will be buying some starter fluid tomorrow, and I have already checked the air-distributor O-rings, and I have a throttle-body gasket here, but I don't think that is necessary..

Any other ideas where to look for small leaks?

I must say that I can hear intake hiss from the top of the engine (intake mani) roughly around about where the CCV / oil separator is (just forward of the DISA valve). I'm not sure if this is normal for this engine though. I've only had it a month.. I bought it in a bad state

The weather is so bad here right now that I doubt I will be able to replace the CCV itself within the next month. Maybe after next month when I have a garage to work from. So any other ideas would be most welcome.

I have a small amount of suction/vacuum from the oil filler hole, and dipstick hole. Nothing very noticable. I haven't actually checked the pressure but I suspect it's nice, and gentle, like it should be, so not a classic case of failed CCV, but I dunno ?

Thanks a million,
Carl
Hi Carl. I know its been a while since you posted this but I have spotted a slight oil leak coming from underneath the inlet mani and I suspect its the return hose as above. Can you buy them seperately and fit them without stripping out the throttle body and all that gubbins? I had the CCV replaced 12 montsh ago. I am wondering if the guy reused the old hose. What were the symptoms of this busted hose. Was your engine rough? Hunting? Poor acceleration? Misfire? Please let me know at rjpool@btinternet.com

Would appreciate it. Thanks

Ray Pooley
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  #32  
Old 07-15-2012, 06:54 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayPooley View Post
I have spotted a slight oil leak coming from underneath the inlet mani and I suspect its the return hose as above. Can you buy them seperately and fit them without stripping out the throttle body and all that gubbins?
Joy already pointed the users to a comprehensive test thread for the CCV system:
- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1)

So, I'll just say your question is answered there (for the I6).

For example, notice this similar picture of 'my' CCV lower vent hose and read that thread for all the misfire codes it caused and how it was replaced w/o removing the CCV:


Note: I'm just answering the post - but I do realize this is the E38 board. The good news is that the referenced thread is applicable to the E38 as well as to the E39 (both I6 and V8).
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #33  
Old 10-19-2012, 05:06 PM
Zakov Zakov is offline
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Hello. In my M52 is very low vacuum on hose connecting fuel presure regulator with CVV. Engine is working little rough. Hoses seems to be fine (only hose I didn't checked is CVV hose connected with oil dipstick, but I will do it soon), without vacuum leak, valve cover gasket also good, new, checked with auto-start fluid, CVV is new. But why is so slightly vacuum on hose connected to fuel presure reguletor? Almost no vacuum at all... Is this correct? FPR can operate with so slightly vacuum?
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  #34  
Old 10-20-2012, 06:20 AM
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joyism5 joyism5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zakov View Post
Hello. In my M52 is very low vacuum on hose connecting fuel presure regulator with CVV. Engine is working little rough. Hoses seems to be fine (only hose I didn't checked is CVV hose connected with oil dipstick, but I will do it soon), without vacuum leak, valve cover gasket also good, new, checked with auto-start fluid, CVV is new. But why is so slightly vacuum on hose connected to fuel presure reguletor? Almost no vacuum at all... Is this correct? FPR can operate with so slightly vacuum?
First, you will need to post in the 3 series (E36) section your questions. On this section (7 series) you might not receive as many answers because the M52 engine is not on the 7's. A smoke test will pin point better a vacuum leak, and a way to test the FPR is to remove the vacuum line from it, and apply vacuum to the FPR while the engine is idling. If is getting better while you are doing this, you might ned more vacuum on the line for the FPR. Smoke test for vacuum leak highly recommended.
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  #35  
Old 10-23-2012, 06:12 AM
Bw740 Bw740 is offline
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Hello everybody i have an 01 740il. Every time I turn steering wheel all the way to the left or right i hear vaccum leak sound coming from
Inside of the car like arround the steering column.any help I would apreciate.......
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  #36  
Old 10-23-2012, 06:20 AM
Bw740 Bw740 is offline
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Hello sir I am new to this fourm i have just purchesed an 01 e38 spent some money on it but I still love the rid. My question when am @ park
Engine running turning steering wheel all the way to the left or right I hear a vaccum leak coming from steering column sounds like ffffffffffffff
Sound lol Thats how i could discribe it sory any help i would apreciate please........good day......
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  #37  
Old 04-20-2013, 11:14 PM
hotrod1914 hotrod1914 is offline
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also my first time to forum...Corey, your one of few that know their stuff.
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  #38  
Old 04-22-2013, 08:47 PM
kwikk4 kwikk4 is offline
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ccv replacement

just had my ccv replaced as my car was blowing white smoke at startup.fixed that problem. rough idle is still there. spark plugs have been replaced also.could i jist have a timing issue{adjustment)?
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  #39  
Old 12-02-2013, 06:05 AM
gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
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Don't fuel aditives mess up the O2 sensors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joyism5 View Post
I would highly recommend not to use products(like Seafoam) that need to be applied through a vacuum line or straight to the intake. These might detach carb deposits in big chunks, which could fell between cylinder and cylinder walls, and will produce scoring on the walls. My personal experience is described in post #3 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...99#post6391599

Best way to safely clean them is using a gas additive, Ventil Sauber from Liqui Molly. It is used in Europe widely with great results. In USA is available online only (at least nobody heard about it in stores). I purchased it from autohausAZ.com.

Apparently they shorten the life by reacting with the platinum in the tip of the sensor.
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