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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 04-16-2016, 03:15 PM
caryolivi caryolivi is offline
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E34 Radio code question (I have code)

Hi i have a 1995 bmw 540i auto. So I got my throttle cable replace and when I got it back the radio was off and wouldn't go on so I figured I need the code which I have. But the thing is I can turn my radio on with the dial but if I press an buttons to start my code the anti theft will beep for 5 minutes.(weather the car is on or off) I know I'm supposed to have the word Code pop up but mine doesnt. Any help? Thanks much.
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2016, 08:37 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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You might try disconnecting your battery briefly -- basically rebooting the car. Worth a try.
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  #3  
Old 04-16-2016, 09:36 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Searched and found this:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...44&postcount=4

Give it a try.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 225K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #4  
Old 04-17-2016, 04:40 PM
caryolivi caryolivi is offline
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Well let me correct something it was the shifter cable that was replaced if that changes anything . Right now my battery is disconnected but it looks like it was never undone to start with but I'ma give it an hour or so then reconnect it and see if the CODE message appears. If not I'll try the ignition in the first position for an hour and if that doesn't work I might try taking it out and unplug it then try agian.

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  #5  
Old 04-17-2016, 04:49 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Searched and found this:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...44&postcount=4

Give it a try.
Nice digging, coming up with that thread. Looks like it refers to instructions in the radio manual as well.
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  #6  
Old 04-17-2016, 11:08 PM
caryolivi caryolivi is offline
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Well turns out niether disconnecting the battery nor leave the key in the 1 position fixed my radio problem. But not the anti theft light doesn't blink at all (after battery disconnected) and I can hit any button with no 5 min alarm. Radio seems completely dead now. Still hasn't asked for code

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  #7  
Old 04-18-2016, 07:39 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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One last option you could try is to turn the key to position 2 for an hour. I was thinking that is what I had read somewhere in the past even though the link I posted said position 1. I wasn't sure so I just left the link as it was without making the comment. Make sure your battery is well charged and turn off any accessories. It's worth a shot.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 225K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #8  
Old 04-18-2016, 08:06 AM
caryolivi caryolivi is offline
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Thanks much. I'll try that

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  #9  
Old 04-18-2016, 11:52 AM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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After that, I'd check the fuses -- No. 18 in the front fuse panel and. No. 36 under the rear seat. The ETM also shows a fuse inside the head unit, which you'd have to remove from the dash to test.
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2016, 12:07 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
One last option you could try is to turn the key to position 2 for an hour. I was thinking that is what I had read somewhere in the past even though the link I posted said position 1. I wasn't sure so I just left the link as it was without making the comment. Make sure your battery is well charged and turn off any accessories. It's worth a shot.
I dug out the radio/cd manual, and it says to leave the ignition and radio on for one hour to restore function after three botched code entries. To me, "Ignition on" would indeed be position 2.
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  #11  
Old 04-18-2016, 07:53 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
I dug out the radio/cd manual, and it says to leave the ignition and radio on for one hour to restore function after three botched code entries. To me, "Ignition on" would indeed be position 2.
Yeah, that's what I interpret as well. I didn't want to contradict what the first link I included said because I have never personally had to do this, but I did think it was position 2. Thanks for the confirmation.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 225K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #12  
Old 04-20-2016, 08:52 PM
caryolivi caryolivi is offline
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Just so you guys know I turned the radio on and set the key to 2nd position and walked away for an hour and when it come back the radio finally said code!! So I started my car and typed in my code and it worked. Thanks for all your help. If you know anything about auto transmissions (5hp30) that woukd be great too. Haha jk I'll do some research. Thanks much

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  #13  
Old 04-20-2016, 09:57 PM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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What kind of trouble are you having with your AT? I've got a 5hp30, and so does Einstein.
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2016, 10:03 PM
caryolivi caryolivi is offline
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Basically I think it has failed me. Here is my post on bimmerforums.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh....php?t=2293850

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  #15  
Old 04-21-2016, 06:54 AM
Mr._Graybeard Mr._Graybeard is offline
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Having read the thread, the transmission story doesn't pass the smell test. What is the name of the shop, and whereabout in Chicago are you? I think you need a second opinion.

The car looks great, but this was one of the most complex vehicles on the road when it came out 21 years ago. And now it's 21 years old, so it has a lot of little things that can go wrong. Looks like you're experiencing a lot of the standard ones that have been hashed over many times here and on bimmerforums. Search the archives on both forums -- the repairs are covered extensively.

I wouldn't be in a hurry to write off the transmission. Obviously something is wrong if it's slipping, but I've never heard of a cooler leaking internally in this model. Could be that fluid is low. Have another shop look at it.
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  #16  
Old 04-21-2016, 09:38 AM
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TheEinstein TheEinstein is online now
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Just read the thread, and I'm glad I did. There was a lot to cover, but the good guys over there, already covered a bunch of it. Some things I'd like to reiterate and/or elaborate on as follows...

As said, I wouldn't consider the trans trash just yet, especially if it was fine for the test drive. Just don't drive it until you sort out the slippage, so you don't render any more damage.

Very informative thread on that trans, granted it's regarding the E38 (7 series), but it's still the same 5HP30 (aka: A5s560z): http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...on-Info-Thread

Moving on..

Please, be done with that mechanic. There are sources on either of these two forums you can simply private message and ask where they take their cars if they are from your area. Do that before throwing caution to the wind and going somewhere with a standard "It's a BMW tax."

Secondly, again as said in that other thread, the slipping could be the coolant in the trans fluid. So again, until that situation can be eliminated, do not drive her. I'd expect a pretty rusty system if the cooler has actually been compromised like that. Whether that's true or not, I'd suggest doing a thorough flush of both systems, but before I did that, there are two hoses that come off a crosstube that goes from the back of one cylinder head to the other. They take off and go straight down to that trans cooler/heat exchanger. Those two hoses/lines provide the coolant flow, and in this case, the ability to mix. Once those are isolated you can begin your work on the cooling system drain, flush, flush with mild vinegar or citric acid and water mix, flush, flush, and if good to go, refill. Don't forget to turn on your heat full blast and give it plenty of time to wash itself while flushing with the engine running. Since trans fluid doesn't have to be expected to degrade or eat into really any inner surfaces of the cooling system, don't sweat the contamination too much. Just do what you can to simply fill, flush, fill, flush... blah blah blah right.. And how do you isolate those hoses/lines/ports? Take them off, get some rubber stoppers, or whatever you've got lying around and cork the ends of the hoses using clamps too. Not that it needs to circulate from one crosstube port to the other, but the easiest way to tie off the ports on the crossover, is probably a short length of heater hose from a local parts store clamped onto them. Granted you can flush by sticking the garden hose with a rag around it into the lower radiator hose so that there's a semi tight fit, understand that you'll want to use distilled water with coolant to refill after draining as much from the block and what not as possible.

Some people don't think rust on it's own, comes out of tap water, I assure you it does. Point is, flushing with running water is one thing. Repeatedly getting mineral rich water up to op-temp is going to deposit anything in the water onto substrates (internal everythings). Effectively rendering rust where you do not want it. For any argument to using distilled water, I cite you showing me proof of a system maintained otherwise... Especially since every other manufacturer suggest to use only distilled, but I guess BMW wouldn't observe such things. Maybe they just assume owners of their cars wouldn't be so ignorant to do otherwise. (Nevermind that O.P., that's just a rant set out for a troll)

Now that you have separated the two fluid systems (hopefully), you can get to draining the trans. Again, assuming that mech has it right, and the two have mixed, it's gonna be a bit tricky. The torque converter holds a fair volume of fluid even when you remove the trans pan, so getting that cycled out may not be so easy. However, and I'm looking for it, I came across a thread where a guy made a fixture to attach to the trans cooler port for the transmission, and from then on it was able to use an external trans cooler. That would be usefull to you, so you could supply and contain separately the expelled. Either way, it's that, or get a new cooler, and those things make you want to squeeze a kittens head like play-doh when you see the price. An entire used transmission usually costs less. I did see one of those guys had one they might make available to you on bimmerforums, and that would be a great thing. But before I even thought about that, I'd have drained the trans, pulled the cooler, and tried to pressure test the cooler/heat exchanger to verify it is your root cause. Given the need to drain, and potentially give it time to circulate fluid to help flush itself, you may want to go with an off the shelf Dex 3 trans fluid for a quick fill, new filter and gasket to. Then drain, replace filter with Filtran filter, and fill with, well it's what I use, Fuchs Titan ATF 3353 trans fluid. I got it pretty reasonably from RMEuropean.com, FWIW. If you find a filter gasket kit, with the rubber gasket, it may prove to be a good alternative to the OEM paper gasket, in that you can seal and drop your pan a few times without having to replace the gasket.

Lastly, the cooling systems on this chassis (E34) are pretty much understood to need overhauled around 100k marks. Overhauled meaning, radiator, hoses, and everything else that has plastic in the system. Sucks, but it's a given, and in one chunk, can be a bit pricey for some. So if money isn't personally available to just bite the bullet and replace it all, doing it in pieces won't do a bit of harm. Just try to stay ahead of it, and if I could offer points of further advice on order, using my experiences; look at the radiator, then expansion tank (next to windshield in middle), then water pump & thermostat, and hoses really at any point or first if they obviously seem compromised or weak. My heater valve (next to firewall, driver side, has a bunch of hoses connected to it) was the first thing to fail on me and drain my coolant while driving down the road. Only reason that wasn't on the top of my list, if you don't touch it, it might be fine. I, on the other hand, decided to make sure all my hoses were snugged up when I first acquired the car. So I'm pretty sure it cracked and fell apart due to me. I'm sure I don't have to say, replacing parts before replacing coolant is more efficient for your time and efforts, but in no way would I hold back on one for much longer than a wait on parts, if you get where I'm coming from...

Sorry about the long winded response. But I thought it might be helpful to have a bigger picture, if you didn't have it already, and I didn't want you to panic just yet.
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1995 E34 540ia
160,000 Miles
VIN# ...GF32404
Hellrot Red

Fuelly

My Basic Repair History (Edited 1/27/2015)

Ongoing comparison between two E34 540ia's

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  #17  
Old 04-21-2016, 03:32 PM
caryolivi caryolivi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEinstein View Post

Sorry about the long winded response. But I thought it might be helpful to have a bigger picture, if you didn't have it already, and I didn't want you to panic just yet.
No i love the long response. Please that was some of the most descriptive help I've gotten. I'm going to try that myself. And I have the bently manual pdf as well so I can look at "blue prints"

I'm just worried spending the money on the trans fluid for multiple drain and fills with the gaskets and filters just for a possible broken trans that I will have to replace later on. I'm willing to try it though. Where is the best place to buy all these parts. I'm going to buy a used trans cooler but what about the rest of them on the cheaper end.
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  #18  
Old 07-25-2016, 04:14 PM
Beemer8135 Beemer8135 is offline
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Starter Intrupt issues

Hello All, I purchased a '95 540i e34, ( was sitting for 3 years) it didn't have a radio, and a dead battery, after replacing the battery I turn the key and nothing, no crank, I have power at the dash, I hear a relay click from the rear distribution center, but no crank, after doing some research, I thought that the radio needed to be visible to the DME in order to allow the starter to crank.
After reading a number of posts, I'm realizing that that might not be the case.
This is my first BMW, I'm an experienced Auto tech but I've never worked on a BMW, LOL ( first time for everything)
My question today is...
With a dead battery, and dead batteries in my key remotes, will the Anti theft system need to be programmed and how ??

Thank you in advance for your help

Last edited by Beemer8135; 07-25-2016 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Type O
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  #19  
Old 07-25-2016, 05:32 PM
BMW_507_4ME BMW_507_4ME is offline
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Anti freeze in trans fluid?

Quote:
Originally Posted by caryolivi View Post
Hi i have a 1995 bmw 540i auto. So I got my throttle cable replace and when I got it back the radio was off and wouldn't go on so I figured I need the code which I have. But the thing is I can turn my radio on with the dial but if I press an buttons to start my code the anti theft will beep for 5 minutes.(weather the car is on or off) I know I'm supposed to have the word Code pop up but mine doesnt. Any help? Thanks much.
I have a 1994 530I A/T and I think they are about the same, that is if you are getting trans fluid in antifreeze or vice a versa, your trans cooling is routed through your radiator, the only way the to fluids could combine IMHO. But a new radiator (100 bucks on ebay), drain the trans ONCE, and refill with the correct trays fluid. When I say drain, I mean converter and case, if you don't know how, pay someone (besides the idiot you have had work on your car) to do it right once (I am thinking ZF trans Fluid $$$, done right once, cheaper. I could be wrong, your car, your money
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:41 PM
BMW_507_4ME BMW_507_4ME is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caryolivi View Post
Basically I think it has failed me. Here is my post on bimmerforums.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh....php?t=2293850

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"This feed has gone radiator / radio I meant this for the radiator clearly."
I have a 1994 530I A/T and I think they are about the same, that is if you are getting trans fluid in antifreeze or vice a versa, your trans cooling is routed through your radiator, the only way the to fluids could combine IMHO. But a new radiator (100 bucks on ebay), drain the trans ONCE, and refill with the correct trays fluid. When I say drain, I mean converter and case, if you don't know how, pay someone (besides the idiot you have had work on your car) to do it right once (I am thinking ZF trans Fluid $$$, done right once, cheaper. I could be wrong, your car, your money
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  #21  
Old 07-25-2016, 09:17 PM
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TheEinstein TheEinstein is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemer8135 View Post
Hello All, I purchased a '95 540i e34, ( was sitting for 3 years) it didn't have a radio, and a dead battery, after replacing the battery I turn the key and nothing, no crank, I have power at the dash, I hear a relay click from the rear distribution center, but no crank, after doing some research, I thought that the radio needed to be visible to the DME in order to allow the starter to crank.
After reading a number of posts, I'm realizing that that might not be the case.
This is my first BMW, I'm an experienced Auto tech but I've never worked on a BMW, LOL ( first time for everything)
My question today is...
With a dead battery, and dead batteries in my key remotes, will the Anti theft system need to be programmed and how ??

Thank you in advance for your help
Beemer, start a thread if you must, but this is a past thread essentially resolved with regard to the radio, and left awaiting O.P.'s transmission continuation elsewhere.

In short though, the trans, nor DME care about the radio. Your car would start with the radio entirely removed. If you have a confirmed good battery, and all you hear is a click down near the starter, you likely need a starter. Sometimes you can give a few good taps while someone is attempting to start the car, and you may get a start out of it, which would again confirm the starter. If that doesn't get you anywhere, start your own thread.
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1995 E34 540ia
160,000 Miles
VIN# ...GF32404
Hellrot Red

Fuelly

My Basic Repair History (Edited 1/27/2015)

Ongoing comparison between two E34 540ia's

OBC4 Hidden Functions : Link
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