EWS Delete / Bypass and no-start problem finally solved - VERY LONG read

Congrats Yako

I dont know how i missed tis thread in april. But it was a great read. It really has been a while since ive been here, last we spoke steve, you were still fighting that no start. Very happy you fixed it though,
Almost as happy as knowing that My car has a Red Label 413

I'm dreading firing it. It's be 6 months not only not running, but not running without a valve cover. I'm an idiot.

Originally Posted by 95 E34

I dont know how i missed tis thread in april. But it was a great read. It really has been a while since ive been here, last we spoke steve, you were still fighting that no start. Very happy you fixed it though,
Almost as happy as knowing that My car has a Red Label 413

I'm dreading firing it. It's be 6 months not only not running, but not running without a valve cover. I'm an idiot.

I'm sure everything will be fine. So you have a red label 413? When did you do your swap? Keep in mind that the Vanos will likely be very noisy upon start up and for the first several miles. You may want to pull the fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay and crank the car over a few times to allow a little oil pressure build up.

Let us know how it goes.

That's a good idea. I'll do that.
My car was produced in 9/94 as a 95 model year so the 413 Red label is OEM. Just got it at the absolute best time, new model year with the good previous DME.

Originally Posted by 95 E34

That's a good idea. I'll do that.
My car was produced in 9/94 as a 95 model year so the 413 Red label is OEM. Just got it at the absolute best time, new model year with the good previous DME.

Ahhh... now I see Grasshoppa ....

Just thought I would ask.. I have a 97 528i e39 Do you know if/how I can bypass ewsII ? Having issues with no cranking when trying to start. Sounds like I may be having communication issues between dme and ews but my mechanic seems to think it is ews issue. I am willing to bypass ews if it will get my car on the road. Posted question/thread in separate post. Just thought I would ask you guys.

Thanks in advance

Cory

Sent from my LG-P999 using Bimmer

Hello Cory. I believe the E39 has the EWS II and I believe it can be bypassed. However, I'm not sure and haven't done it on an E39 so I don't know any specifics. Did you post this question on the E39 forum? They might be able to help.

Ya.. Posted @e39 forum.. Trying now to locate bentley e39 vol 2 electrical service manual, not that it would instruct me on how to bypass ews but.... You never know.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Bimmer

Hey I'm having the same problems with my 95 M3, 1/95 oroduction date so i have EWS 2.

Is this the green wire you're saying to snip and it'll disable the EWS?



I snipped it while the battery was off than, plugged the battery back in and car still won't start (no crank, click or anything).

Originally Posted by SMikha

Hey I'm having the same problems with my 95 M3, 1/95 oroduction date so i have EWS 2.

Is this the green wire you're saying to snip and it'll disable the EWS?



I snipped it while the battery was off than, plugged the battery back in and car still won't start (no crank, click or anything).

Sorry to hear you are having trouble. No-start situations on these cars can be a real bear to figure out. Can you advise what symptoms you began to have that lead you to the conclusion that your EWS is not functioning properly? There are several things that can mimic a bad EWS. If you will, please give more detail. Have you checked the status of your battery? Have you ruled out a bad neutral safety switch? Prior to cutting the green wire, would the engine turn over when you went to key #3 position or did nothing at all happen?

If I am not mistaken, the green wire of the yellow connector is the #4 wire that needs to be cut. However, I also believe that #1 and #3 have to be cut and bridged on one side (don't know if it is on the DME side or the module side). On mine, I had to bridge the #1 and #3 wires on both sides, but, I also had to do a DME swap since my DME went bad. Mine was also on the E36 and after conversing with Supertech777, he advised that the wire colors on the module are not the same on the E34. I can't confirm that because the downloadable Bentley that I have is missing the pages for the wiring diagram for the EWS.

Supertech777 wound up buying a EWS delete chip and he was still able to use his silver label DME. Perhaps he will chime in today since he went through the same problem.

PS: Make sure to cut any wires with enough of a pigtail to re-connect them if necessary.

EDIT: I just realized you are having the problem with your M3 and not an E34. All of the wring cuts/modifications I did were at the yellow connector at the EWS module. The colors of wires listed in the original post should be correct for your car.

One night I locked my keys in my car while they were still in the ignition, so I had to break into the car and pop the lock to open up. Right after that the car wouldn't crank at all, ok so maybe it was the battery; unfortunately, had that load tested and the volts + CCA were still good.
Since my car is a 95 I do not have a neutral start switch (or maybe it was taken out because I haven't used the clutch since ownership).
Before cutting the green wire, the engine wouldn't turn over all, no fuel pump noise, no starter click, nothing. and even after cutting it, nothing. Just lights and instruments.

I didn't know about wire #1 and #3, so I would have to cut them than cap them together? both lines? and at both sides (DME and under glovebox)?

I also found a EWS ring and a separate key under my steering wheel today, they were taped together, but the key doesn't turn in my column, I'm so confused by this new find.

Originally Posted by SMikha

One night I locked my keys in my car while they were still in the ignition, so I had to break into the car and pop the lock to open up. Right after that the car wouldn't crank at all, ok so maybe it was the battery; unfortunately, had that load tested and the volts + CCA were still good.
Since my car is a 95 I do not have a neutral start switch (or maybe it was taken out because I haven't used the clutch since ownership).
Before cutting the green wire, the engine wouldn't turn over all, no fuel pump noise, no starter click, nothing. and even after cutting it, nothing. Just lights and instruments.

I didn't know about wire #1 and #3, so I would have to cut them than cap them together? both lines? and at both sides (DME and under glovebox)?

I also found a EWS ring and a separate key under my steering wheel today, they were taped together, but the key doesn't turn in my column, I'm so confused by this new find.

Okay. So you have a manual transmission so that rules out a neutral safety switch. I'm not sure how breaking in to the car would activate the EWS. Since you found the extra key taped into an EWS ring, it sounds like someone swapped out something in the ignition portion of the steering column, but kept the key and EWS ring to trick the EWS system into believing all was well. Did the EWS ring get disconnected? If so, try re-connecting it and re-connect the green wire. It may be that simple.

As far as wire 1 & 3, I had to cut and bridge them on both sides, but again, I was swapping my DME because it was bad, so I’m not exactly sure about just bypassing the EWS.

Nope EWS ring still connected, is it likely that the key column has been changed so the key I ordered from BMW this week is not going to work when it comes in?

My DME is not stock either, I forgot to mention I have a S50b30euro in the US spec M3... So wires 1 and 3, I cut both, leaving me with 4 wires in total, so I connect 1 & 3 and 1&3 and do that on the DME side as well? Is that what you did? If so I'll give it a try because I have no use for the EWS system and I can always splice back the wires together if nothing works.

Originally Posted by SMikha

Nope EWS ring still connected, is it likely that the key column has been changed so the key I ordered from BMW this week is not going to work when it comes in?

My DME is not stock either, I forgot to mention I have a S50b30euro in the US spec M3... So wires 1 and 3, I cut both, leaving me with 4 wires in total, so I connect 1 & 3 and 1&3 and do that on the DME side as well? Is that what you did? If so I'll give it a try because I have no use for the EWS system and I can always splice back the wires together if nothing works.

Crap. The new key will likely not work Why did you order a new key?

Regarding wires 1 & 3, yes, you need to bridge them on both sides. As you said, you can always re-connect them if needed.

$80 for a valet key because I thought I could use a spare for future mistakes just in case so I don't have to break into my car, was a nice christmas gift for my brain... guess not.

Ok I'll try those wires this afternoon and let ya know how it goes.

Originally Posted by SMikha

$80 for a valet key because I thought I could use a spare for future mistakes just in case so I don't have to break into my car, was a nice christmas gift for my brain... guess not.

Ok I'll try those wires this afternoon and let ya know how it goes.

I don't think the key will be a total loss though. It should unlock your doors, but will likely not work in the ignition. Good luck.

Ok so I put together wire #1 and #3 and just cut #4, all under the glovebox.

Like this:



You can see wire #1 from the engine and #3 from the yellow harness together, and I have the other set doing the same thing and than I have the #4 just sitting there cut.

I also have the RED DME with a ews delete as seen here:





Let me know if anything looks weird. Did you cut the wires connecting to your DME in the engine bay as well?

By the way, it didn't work, no starter no fuel pump, just the regular old lights and dash. Any more suggestions?

Ok I looked for wires #1 and #3 connected to the DME, couldn't find anything... Here's where I was looking:



Also in the glovebox area, did you mean connect #1 and #3 as in the opposite way that I did it?

Okay. A couple of things. The red label DME you have is not a standard red label 413 that I swapped mine with. My guess is because your engine is not the M50. Having said that, I'm not sure the wiring trick I used will work.

Secondly, I don't think the problem would be your EWS if your DME is already bypassing the EWS.

I could not really tell how you joined the wires in your pictures (although they are very good close up shots). I'm a horrible artist, but I drew this diagram out to show the wiring modifications I did along with the red label 413 DME swap:



All of the modifications seen in my drawing were done there at the EWS module connector.

If none of this works, then you may need to consider finding a used DME like you currently have.

However, although you don't have an automatic, I think there is still some type of switch that is engaged when the clutch is pushed in so the car can crank (i.e. similar to a neutral safety switch in an auto). If so, then that switch may have failed.

Don’t know if this helped you much.

IT WORKED I switched my wiring to yours and everything powered up and car came alive!

I'll write up a DIY on bimmerforums for this and throw a link in this thread, probably tomorrow after I'm done ripping enjoying my car.

Once again, I couldn't have done this without you BMR_LVR so I would like to say thank you, I will also give you credit in my DIY.

THANK YOU!

Originally Posted by SMikha

IT WORKED I switched my wiring to yours and everything powered up and car came alive!

I'll write up a DIY on bimmerforums for this and throw a link in this thread, probably tomorrow after I'm done ripping enjoying my car.

Once again, I couldn't have done this without you BMR_LVR so I would like to say thank you, I will also give you credit in my DIY.

THANK YOU!

It was my pleasure sir. Glad you got her going again

Great Job Steve !

Ok, I've been following this thread and I have a question. The differential was being replaced on my E36 and while waiting for the part, the mechanic left the key in the ignition. Now he can't test drive the car because it won't start. Does this sound like a EWS II issue to you? I only have one key. Should I get a new key programmed or go through your ring replacement process?

Originally Posted by Dez96328i

Ok, I've been following this thread and I have a question. The differential was being replaced on my E36 and while waiting for the part, the mechanic left the key in the ignition. Now he can't test drive the car because it won't start. Does this sound like a EWS II issue to you? I only have one key. Should I get a new key programmed or go through your ring replacement process?

Hello Dez. "Because it won't start" is way too vague to determine if there is a problem with the EWS on your car. There are so many things that can cause a no-start. Firstly, what happens when it doesn't start? Does the engine crank over? If so, I doubt it is EWS. If all gauges and lights on the dash come on, but the engine will not turn over, then EWS is a possibility. There are other things that can cause the same symptoms, such as a failed neutral safety switch, failed starter or starter relay, etc. I would not think that leaving the key in the ignition would create a problem with the EWS. I would personally think that other systems need to be ruled out first.

Don't know if this helps or not.

I tried to sent this on the 17th but I didn't do it correcttly.........

Thank you for the quick response. I apologize for the lack of detail in the original post. I've spoken to the mechanic to verify the current status of the situation. It's not the battery. The ignition was removed. The starter was bypassed. All power is on but it won't turn over. The security light is blinking. We discussed the ring as well. He says he has the software to test the electrical and mechanical components, but cannot determine why it will not start. He has played with the power locks and ignition in different sequences. We are trying to avoid going to the dealer and spending more money. The supervisor at the dealership sounded like she had no clue. She wants me to tow it in so they can run diagnostics. I drove the car to the mechanic and it has been on a lift for 2 weeks with the key in the ignition. The work was done on the rear end. The differential was replaced and the ring that connected both ends of the drive shaft was replaced. 2 support arms were replaced to stabilize the front wheels. Nothing electrical was worked on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Thank you,


Desmond