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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-30-2011, 02:34 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
DIY: 1998 BMW 528i Brake Hydraulic System Overhaul (6 Hoses, Caliper Seals/Boots)

DIY: 1998 BMW 528i Brake Hydraulic System Overhaul (Brake Hoses, Caliper Seals/Dust Boots)

My car has no problem with the brake system but I want to keep this baby for another 10 years, so this is another preventive DIY.

My experience with previous cars shows that after 12-14 years/100-120K miles, the Brake Caliper Seals start to harden causing either fluid leakage or seized Calipers (uneven pad wear, rotor overheat ---> damage etc.). So at that age/mileage it makes sense to "refresh" the brake hydraulic system.

My BMW Brake Caliper is made by ATE.

Brake Hydraulic Overhaul parts can be purchased from:
http://www.eactuning.com or similar websites.


- FRONT Brake Rebuild Kit (Seal, Dust Boot): PN 34111163647; ATE (made in Germany); $18.00 x 2
(FRONT Caliper has only 1 piston; each kit has 1 seal, and 1 boot, enough for 1 caliper, you need 2 kits per car).

- REAR Brake Rebuild Kit (Seal, Dust Boot): PN 34211164440; ATE (made in Germany); $14.00 x 2
(REAR Caliper has only 1 piston; each kit has 1 seal, and 1 boot, enough for 1 caliper, you need 2 kits per car).

- FRONT Brake Hoses; PN 34301165249; FTE (made in Germany); $16.00 x 2

- REAR Brake Hoses; PN 34301165190; FTE (made in Germany); $19.00 x 2

- "IN-BETWEEN Brake Hoses": 34321162612 (Right Rear), 34321162616 (Left Rear); ATE (made in Germany) $18.00/each.

TOTAL = $160-170 range




---------
BRAKE HYDRAULIC OVERHAUL PROCEDURE

1. ALWAYS support car with jackstand before doing any work!

2. I use Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid.

3. Clean the car the day before so all sand/dirt comes off.
- Dirt is No. 1 enemy when working on brake caliper rebuild. So: clean the outside (I used an old tooth brush) of the caliper before disassembly! Spray the outside with some WD-40, wipe it clean before doing any work.
- Spray the connection between the brake hose and metal line (AT CHASSIS CONNECTION) with WD-40 once the wheel is removed (car on jackstand); this allows the WD-40 to work into the brake hose and metal line connection while you do the caliper rebuild. This makes removal easier.
In my case the FRONT connections are so corroded it was impossible to remove even after one hour of WD-40 treatment. I use Propane Torch (10-15 seconds of heat, and it was a breeze).
- Better yet, spray these connections 1-2 days ahead, these hoses/lines nuts/bolts seize after 13 years!
- Use flare wrenches!!!

4. STUDY Typical Brake Caliper Anatomy.




5. Start with the FRONT Calipers.
- Jackstand under subframe.
- Spray WD-40 at brake line chassis connection, hopefully you don't need to use heat as I did.
- Remove Caliper (remove Spring Clip, then use 7-mm Allen socket to remove calipers). Be gentle with the Brake Wear Sensor when removing it on driver side, I broke mine! No big deal, a new sensor is $5!
- Clamp the hose with vice-grip and cut the hose below the vice-grip.
Now the Caliper it out of the car.
- Use the brake tool to squeeze the piston inward to squeeze out brake fluid into a bottle, this way later when you expel the piston, there is no mess. I learned this the hard way, so don't ask LOL.
- Now use compressor air to push the piston out (place a piece of wood first!!!).
- Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry the Rubber Boot's edge, taking care not to damage the piston's smooth surface.
- Before you get too excited and toss the rubber boot, STOP! You can use the old rubber boot as the tool to press new boot in! ATE procedure calls for a special tool (similar to bearing adapter) to push the new rubber boot in. Most of us don't have this tool. So you can cut the rubber portion of the OLD boot, now you have the outer ring, which is made out of metal with rubber encasing it. This is now your special tool to be used with a pair of channel-lock pliers!




6. Use air compressor with 30-40 psi to expel piston, no need for more pressure.
- Use a piece of wood to prevent piston from shooting out too far!
- As soon as you apply air pressure into the Brake Caliper (remove the brake hose first), the piston comes out.




7. My FRONT Piston (aluminum instead of steel) has a few very very fine scratch marks (you have to look very closely to see it).
- I buffed the piston shiny using "PlastX"; the same stuff you use to polish headlight.
- The nice thing about "PlastX" is that: it is very fine paste, maybe 10,000 grit or so.
- Then clean the piston and the Inside of the caliper with WD-40 and wipe it clean. Again, take care not to introduce any dirt inside.
- Wipe all areas clean with a clean rag. You may want to use a Q-tip (wrapped with cloth) to clean the 2 grooves (1 for seal, 1 for dust boot) really well.




8. Remove old seal (gentle with a flat screw driver).
- Clean the inside of the Caliper Housing completely.

9. Now wet the new Seal with fresh brake fluid and place it in the INNER groove, taking care not to get any dirt in the bore.

10. Place the NEW Dust Boot onto the Piston as shown in the picture below:
- LEFT Picture is the Anatomy during Normal Operation.
- RIGHT Picture shows you how to place the Dust Boot during Installation of Piston.




11. During Piston insertion:
- Place the NEW Dust Boot in the Piston first then slide it into the Smooth Part of the Piston (wet the boot with brake fluid first).
- Now place the "special tool" (old rubber boot ring) on top of the NEW rubber boot to protect NEW rubber boot when squeezed by pair of channel-lock pliers.
- Make sure the Piston is straight. If it is even slightly crooked, it won't go in. Use the Brake Tool to push it in.
- Once the Piston is inserted half way, STOP!
- Now use 2 fingers to push the backside of the NEW rubber boot in place. The OUTER part is angled out. Now use the channel-lock pliers to squeeze on the "special tool" and slowly seat the rubber boot in.
- Now use the Brake Tool to push the Piston all the way in. You will hear a faint snap when the rubber boot "round" INNER ring goes inside the Piston's groove.
(Verify using your finger to be sure the rubber boot INNER ring is in the correct groove.)









12. Now install new Brake hose on the Caliper using 14-mm flare wrench.
- Cover the free end of the hose with plastic/rubber band to prevent dirt from getting inside!

13. Now disconnect the chassis connection (11-mm and 17-mm wrenches).
In my case corrosion sets in, after 1h of WD-40, I almost rounded the 11-mm bolt! So time for heat!!!
- Cover the Plastic Junction Box with Aluminum paper to protect it.
- Those of you who have done home plumbing will be familiar with the Propane Torch that plumber uses to solder copper pipes. This can be purchased at local hardware store for about $10-15. Buy the kit so you have the Propane bottle and all the gadgets.
- All you need is "blue flame" about 1 inch in length and about 10-15 seconds at the spot shown below. This is enough heat to expand the "Nut" part on the hose.
- NOTE that the hose fitting is 17-mm and has 4 ridges that prevent you from turning, so you have to turn the 11-mm bolt.
- After 10-15 seconds of heat, life was a million times better! The 11-mm bolts comes out like a breeze!!!
PS: If you are a perfectionist like myself….......at the very end, before installing the wheel, the area heated by propane torch…...... Spray with some primer paint to cover the part that was heated. But do this once you have done everything else and ready to install the wheel.




14. NEXT is "IN-BETWEEN HOSES" Next to suspension tower.
- My old "in-between hoses" do not look too bad after 13 years and 115K miles. But I replaced these for the sake of completeness. Plus, there have been people who lost all braking because these 2 hoses burst at the least expected moment!
- Use cardboard to protect from brake fluid spillage. Since these hoses are at the same level as the reservoir, there is very little spillage here (compared with the wheel caliper area where it drips at 1 drop/second).
- I also use a small piece of cardboard to push the wring out of the way.
- I move the metal brake line out of the plastic holder to make the job easier.
So remember to put the metal brake line back in the plastic holder when all done.
- NOTE that the 2 hoses need different wrench combinations: 11-mmm & 14-mm and 12-mm & 17-mm.








15. Next is REAR Hoses.
- You MUST chock FRONT wheels because once the REAR is raised (I raised the REAR via the Differential), nothing will stop the car from rolling!!!
- Once the REAR is raised, place jackstands at REAR Jack Pads.
- Then gently lower the car onto the jackstands.
- Then I slightly raised the floor jack until it gently touches the Rear Differential as a backup in case the jackstands fail!
- Note that I put the wheels under the car. Again, safety first!

- Note that my REAR hose starts to crack on the outside.

- 11-mm and 14-mm wrenches as usual.
- For the REAR I did NOT need heat at all: 1h of WD-40 does the job, maybe because the REAR is less exposed to corrosion than the FRONT. If you decide to use heat in the REAR, there is a rubber grommet right there, so be careful!
NOTE: the REAR setup has washers x2 sandwiching the rubber grommet.
So do NOT forget to transfer the metal washer from the old hose to the NEW hose, see pic. I learned this the hard way LOL!!!









16. Same Trick using "special tool".
- New hose design is slightly different from stock.




17. REAR Caliper Ready for install.
NOTE the free end of the new hose is wrapped in plastic/rubber band to prevent dirt from coming in, remove the plastic wrap only when you are ready to install.



18. Re-install Brake Caliper, Brake Pads etc. taking care to make sure the Brake Wear Sensor wiring is properly secured.

19. Then bleed Brake System.
- I use my air compressor to bleed and wrote it up here:

DIY: 1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor!
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=392957

This is my setup using the "home-made" ATE Cap for the air compressor:



That is it boys and girls, now I need my favorite Heineken beer!!!!!!!!
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Last edited by cn90; 05-05-2011 at 06:58 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2011, 02:57 PM
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Mein Auto: '97 540iA
Excellent DIY Thank You
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2011, 05:42 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I forgot to mention a special thanks to "JimLev" and "EuroDavid" from roadfly E39 forum who have given me excellent tips before this overhaul project!
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Old 05-01-2011, 06:43 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Oh how I love your DIYs!

This one is/will be an instant classic; so I took the liberty of adding it to the bestlinks (new addition in red):
- How to do a preventive brake system & caliper rebuild (1) (2) & what six brake hoses to check for wear (1)

For the record, here is the current overall summary bestlink set for E39 brakes:

- What E39 street use brake pads (1) and rotors (1) and suppliers (1) (2) are most often recommended & how to do a complete four wheel brake job DIY (1) (2) (3) including the parking brake drum shoes (1) (2) (3) & exactly what lube/paste to use and not use (1) & where to lube (1) and not to lube (1) & what six brake hoses to check for wear (1) & how to do a preventive brake system & caliper rebuild (1) (2) & what tools are needed for a brake job (1) (2) and supplies for doing brakes (1) & what brake specifications you must know (1) including minimum specs for the brake shoes (1) (2) taking care to measure torque accurately (1) & how to crack friction material edge codes (1) & how far you can go once the brake wear sensor trips (1) (2) (3) (4) & how long do rotors last (1) & how to clear the check brake lining warning the right way (1) (2) and how to hardwire the sensor (1) (2) & how to diagnose brake-related vibration (1) (2) (3) & the truth about rotor "warp" (1) & how to rebuild the calipers (1) & how to measure runout (1) & should you just turn the rotors (1) & how to remove stuck rusted-on brake rotors (1) & how to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw (1) & how to replace the anti-rattle spring (1) (2) & what about unsightly rust (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to bed (1) (2) & bleed or flush (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) your brakes & what brake & clutch hydraulic fluid to use (1) and how much it will cost if you do not DIY (1) (2) (3).

Notice Doru's picture here of just two of the often-overlooked worn brake hoses:
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  #5  
Old 05-01-2011, 06:47 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Another awesome DIY from cn90. Thanx, Cam! Keep this up and I'll be able to rebuild my entire car over time and keep it forever! Just one more thing on my "gotta do it" list...
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  #6  
Old 05-01-2011, 06:59 AM
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Fleetman Fleetman is offline
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Outstanding sir! Thank you (and your contributors) for the excellent DIY.
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2012, 05:21 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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cn90,

did u give any thought to the stainkess steel hoses? for me, the steel option only adds $30 more to the cost. ur hoses are less then my 2002 525i e39. the intermediate houses are the expensive ones. if I just get 4 hoses, for front n back, its only $50. the two intermediate houses add another $45. or all six flexible stainless steel for $120.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:28 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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mjbennett,

The reviews on SS brake lines have been mixed.
For that reasons, I stick to OEM brake hoses, which work just fine, zero issues whatsoever.
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2012, 11:08 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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I know you said no brake problems before starting this, but did you notice if your pedal got any firmer wih the replacement hoses?

Also, was there a lot of brake fluid leakage once you took off the vice grips from the hose? I saw you put them off, but not sure at what point they were removed and if, like doing the fuel filter, there will be a steady stream of fluid until the lines are evacuated (1 liter ish).

How were you able to identify your caliper as an ATE? were they marked? I believe my two rears are identical (not sure of name), but someone replaced my front left at one point. I don't know the brand, but it is definitely newer than the right. Are the rebuild seal kits generic (even though an ATE brand)?

Lastly, on the rears, did you support the 14mm connection (hose) while loosening the 11mm connect (solid line)? or vise versa?

Same question for the fronts. I know you mention the 17mm connection has slots and won't take a wrench, but did you support the 17mm connection while turning the other end (that was just heated)?

Last edited by mjbennett9; 05-14-2012 at 06:57 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-05-2012, 01:58 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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CN90,

I took your advice on the compressor. I ordered, and received today, the Movite 0109 european black aluminum cap version. As nice as it sounded, the $80 or so didn't justify it. I am returning it unopened today. I ran out and bought a craftsman branded evolve 3gal compressor with braid gun, on sale for $79!!!! :-) I'll build the adapters soon. Now I'll have a compressor when it comes time to rebuild the calipers. :-)

Thank you!
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2012, 04:30 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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It is now 1 year since I overhauled the entire brake system as mentioned.
So far so good, braking is rock solid!
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2012, 07:31 AM
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doru doru is online now
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Cam, when you removed the 2 short rubber lines from the ABS (the ones that go to the rear), is there a risk of sucking in air in the ABS?
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:24 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Cam, when you removed the 2 short rubber lines from the ABS (the ones that go to the rear), is there a risk of sucking in air in the ABS?
No, if anything then brake fluid drips very very slowly from the disconnected lines (from the ABS Unit).
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2012, 04:20 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Here's the parts I ordered from eaceuroparts.com for my 2002 525i e39, if any one is interested. I am skipping the seals for now until I'm ready to paint the calipers at a later date. Too many other more important repairs to do, along with a new job change/move coming up. Back to TX.

Purchased Items

Item Number Description Price
12 13 9 067 831 Spark Plug Connector from Coil to Spark Plug (BREMI) $6.29
12 13 9 067 831 Spark Plug Connector from Coil to Spark Plug (BREMI) $6.29
12 13 9 067 831 Spark Plug Connector from Coil to Spark Plug (BREMI) $6.29
12 13 9 067 831 Spark Plug Connector from Coil to Spark Plug (BREMI) $6.29
12 13 9 067 831 Spark Plug Connector from Coil to Spark Plug (BREMI) $6.29
12 13 9 067 831 Spark Plug Connector from Coil to Spark Plug (BREMI) $6.29
34 32 1 162 612 Brake Hose Right Rear (In-Between Brake Pipes) $16.64
34 32 1 162 616 Brake Hose Left Rear (In-Between Brake Pipes) $17.10
34 30 1 165 249 Brake Hose Front Left/Right (2 Per Car) $14.46
34 30 1 165 249 Brake Hose Front Left/Right (2 Per Car) $14.46
34 30 1 165 190 Brake Hose Rear Left/Right (2 Per Car) $18.51
34 30 1 165 190 Brake Hose Rear Left/Right (2 Per Car) $18.51

Sub-Total: $137.42
Shipping Cost: $7.42
Total: $144.84

Yes, there are free shipping places, but all, including autohausaz.com mixed and matched all the parts (only one part was OEM, rest were PEX, feni, etc). BAVauto sold OEM but huge money. Anyway, thought I'd share.
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:45 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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CN90,

I just noticed you don't have a heat shield covering section by in-between hoses. Did you remove it, or never had one? There's no way I'll be able to change those hoses without removing mine. Not sure it there are any gotchyas on removing it.
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:28 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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UPDATE: Still working on it. 2 hours so far, and fronts are done. That included bringing all my tools and compressor from 2nd floor to front of apt. building. And also included my teaching my 15 yo who is mechanically challenged (more than me). Went VERY well. For those like me, I couldn't figure out how to turn the 17mm wrench with the 11mm. But it's the 11mm that turns. The 17mm connection in grooved not to turn--you basically wiggle it to come up and out--simple. Oh, and I had to use zero heat. I think because I used pb blaster last week, last night, and this morning. Doing rears now, then intermediates (might take a little bit longer because of the heat shield). Then I'll bleed them with my new makita mac700. It worked great on the lug nuts. The sears branded was too loud and weak. This one is 4x the air, 10x quieter, and about 20x faster in loading the air. :-)

Also, I didn't have a 17mm wrench, so I used an adjustable wrench just fine. I did have an 18mm flare wrench but it wouldn't fit. Also, don't be afraiid on the 11mm. I used a lot of force and it gave, but if I had to lean into it, I would have used the torch to heat it. It would have def stripped without the flared wrench though--highly recommended. I got the crafstman set at sears for $32 on sale (6 piece).

Front hoses and intermediates really don't look bad. The rears are definitaly in rough shape. Driving 1000 miles next month so wanted to take care of it asap.
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  #17  
Old 05-19-2012, 11:39 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Wow, these intermediates are harder than the front and rears--combined. Was able to move heat sheild somewhat, but not completely. I also moved the coil pack assebly out of the way (figures, I just had it apart this morning too). Anyway, moving everything helped a little. Got the top intermediate off, and not the bottom is giving me a hard time. the flare is slipping off and possibly rounding the nut. The reg wrench seems to be ok on it for now. Spraying with PB blaster (soaking actually), then will try in 30 minutes again. Wouldn't be so bad, but it's an awkward working angle for wrenches. Crow wrench probably be ok, but I'm thinking it would spin/twist the line while trying to turn it. I don't have crows anyway. Well, as usually, the last bolt, nut, or in this case a hose, is giving me the most trouble. Already to bleed brakes after this. So glad these usually last 10 years before needing them again! :-)
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Old 05-19-2012, 12:11 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Mein Auto: 525i (E39)
No go on last hose. I committed myself by cutting the line and using a deep socket. I have great leverage on the 17mm end, but the 11mm I'm worried about and still not budging. So, instead of risking it, and since I'm committed now, I'm going to take the front right tire off (again), and try to pull out the intermediate line altogether, from the tire well. Then I can literally soak the whole connection in a bowl of PB blaster, and plus I'll get a horizontal grip on both ends of the hose/line, and that should work--I hope! :-) Coming up on 4 hours and should have been done. But I guess really 3 hours because the first hour was bring out tons of tools, doing the 6 coil pack boots replacement, and teaching my son (who's had enough already). lol.

Off I go again. :-)

Oh, think it's be safe to use a torch now? probably not since there'd be exposed break fluid at this point.
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  #19  
Old 05-19-2012, 01:28 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Location: Grapevine, TX (DFW)
 
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Mein Auto: 525i (E39)
Of course the line didn't go to the tire well, went to rear of car. oh Well, done for the night. Last intermediate hose would not give (one end closest to front of car was no problem. But of course the one deeper in toward the engine was very difficult to reach and still won't budge. Tried heat for 10 seconds, then 20 seconds still nothing. I might try 30 seconds next, but will try soaking with pb blaster every hour or so and try tomorrow. Bummer! was supposed to go 140 miles somewhere on Monday. Anyway, anyone else have problem with intermediate? Can't believe this was the difficult part of the job. I was looking at CN90's intermediates, his looking further out of the engine than mine. I have about 2 or 3" of working room max. Not easy with wrenchs. But since I cut off the hose, I am now using an 18mm deep socket to hold/leverage one end of the hose, but that damned 11mm is just getting more rounded. The flare wrench and regular wrench, even though craftsman, are giving and rounding the nut.
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Last edited by mjbennett9; 05-19-2012 at 04:58 PM.
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  #20  
Old 05-20-2012, 08:46 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Mein Auto: 525i (E39)
Does anyone know how long hard pipes 5 or 6 are? I looked up the parts online, but all I see is special order and "no image available," so I can't tell how long 5 or 6 is. The joint must be somewhere outside of the engine bay, but most likely after the wheel well, heading to rear of the car. I'm just not sure where to look for the connection joint, and try to remove the hard line from there, and pull the line out of the car. I think if I can get the hard line out (without cutting), I can then get better grips on the intermediate 11mm connection and finally remove the hose.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...43&hg=34&fg=17
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  #21  
Old 05-20-2012, 09:26 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Mein Auto: 525i (E39)
UPDATE: My older son came out to try. Using a small vice grip (didn't have large one), and two of us (one on each end tugging), it cracked free (rusted a little inside, possible loctite). It's free. going to finish job now. :-) Lesson learned, start early, plan on contingencies, and don't give up. And possibly a new set of eyes (hands) to help. Perhaps if I soaked the intermediates a week early like the other lines, it owuld have been easier. But from what I read, the intermediate hoses should have been the simplest. Another lesson learned--don't under-estimate a DIY job. :-)

Also, I was kicking myself in the moment for not remembering to let my tank run low--just in case I messed up, or a part didn't come off, and I had to remove the tank. Fortunately I didn't, but if I had to remove the tank, it would have been 100% full (filled night before--duh). :-)

Last edited by mjbennett9; 05-21-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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  #22  
Old 05-20-2012, 03:12 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Location: Grapevine, TX (DFW)
 
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Mein Auto: 525i (E39)
All done. Just drove around for a while. I'd say maybe 10% to 20% MAX improvement in pedal stiffness, but I did for proactive maintenance with rears cracking a bit.

Last edited by mjbennett9; 05-20-2012 at 03:55 PM.
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  #23  
Old 05-20-2012, 05:02 PM
ilian007 ilian007 is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 530i 2002
Why you guys didnt save your time and buy rebuilt ones ? Is there any benefit of doing it yourself ?

I mean rebuilding the caliper.

Thank you
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  #24  
Old 05-21-2012, 04:54 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilian007 View Post
Why you guys didnt save your time and buy rebuilt ones ? Is there any benefit of doing it yourself ?

I mean rebuilding the caliper.

Thank you
The problem with REBUILT CALIPERS is that: you don't know where the seals come from.
Also, there have been rare cases of leaks after buying a rebuilt caliper. The Quality Control varies from store to store.

When YOU rebuild the caliper as mentioned in the first thread, you know you put in OEM ATE Made-in Germany seals!
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2012, 09:09 AM
ilian007 ilian007 is offline
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Location: Sacramento, California
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
The problem with REBUILT CALIPERS is that: you don't know where the seals come from.
Also, there have been rare cases of leaks after buying a rebuilt caliper. The Quality Control varies from store to store.

When YOU rebuild the caliper as mentioned in the first thread, you know you put in OEM ATE Made-in Germany seals!
I see! thank you CN90
I was reading for Nugeon and will give it a try. Dont have a garage and will replace it @friends.
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