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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-01-2011, 10:33 AM
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moiz21 moiz21 is offline
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LDP - Leak Detection Pump/Charcoal Cannister DIY

Hey boys and girls, I've been a member going on 9 months and have saved thousands on maintenance on my car due to the amazing DIY's that have been provided by the community as a collective. Everyone has come together in an amazing fashion to help out in order to help save everyone the ache of forking over tons of money to dealers and indies who at the end of the day you dont even know if they did a good job or not because you obviously aren't going sit there and watch them every step of the way.

So anyway, that being said Thanks to all and here is a pretty easy DIY that should take anywhere from 30-90 minutes depending on the skill level and speed at which you work. Took me about about an hour and 15 minutes just cause I was going in blind since there doesn't seem to be any DIY instructions for this job.

Tools needed:
Rivet puller-Optional(not sure if thats the right name) or Pliers
10 mm socket
5/16 socket
Clamp

First off you need to jack the car up or use ramps. I used ramps and there was plenty of space to work. Once on the ramps/jacks get under the car. The pump is located on the right side (facing the front of the car from the trunk) of the spare tire well in the trunk. There is a plastic shield help on by 3 rivets that needs to be removed. It's fairly straight forward so didn't take pics of this step. You can use a set of pliers/rivet tool/flathead screwdriver to pull them out. At this point you should expose the LDP. See pic. There are 2 10mm bolts holding it in place. I would say leave these until the end once you get all the hoses off the pump just so you're not holding it up the whole time. Also I am pointing at a plug you need to disconnect from the pump. Make sure to pull it off.



There is one more plastic shield that is kind of part of the wheel well that should be removed. I dont think it's a 100% necessary but just makes life easier. Pic shows the shield. This is where the 5/16th socket comes into play. It has 2 nuts hold it in place, just take them off and set to the side. (I think its a 8mm nut but came across the 5/16th first and it worked so just went ahead with the job.



On the far side closest to the wheel there are the hoses that are connected to the LDP. Remove these three. Just reference the pics. First pic shows 2, there is a 3rd hose coming across. Reference the 2nd pic and you see the 3rd hose, just grip the sides and pull them off. Given that this is probably the original pump that came with the car, it was on there pretty good. I wedged a flathead in between the hose and the pump and while pressing the clips and pulling, used the flathead for leverage and worked the hose off.





These next two pics show where the hoses were connected just to give you guys/gals a better idea of what you're trying to do.





And this one shows the plug connection you separated.



Ok, one more thing before you can take the pump off. This pic is of the replacement pump which still had the clamps on. Remove the clamp which I'm pointing at. Use the flathead, pliers or whatever you can to get the clamp off. and just wiggle. You may need the flathead again to work the connection off since it's been on there for a while. Once that is off you can go ahead and remove the pump.



Ok that's it. Installation is the reverse. Extremely easy. The only other thing I would add is if you can, find a box or something to support the pump just so you don't snap anything off. And this is in regards to the hoses that are connected to the pump. Since they are old you may snap one by accident and I have no idea how to replace it so DONT DO IT
And last but not least, a HUGE thank you to smolck for getting me the pump. Average price of a new pump is anywhere in the range of $300+. Shad was able to get me a used, working pump for $135 including shipping and obviously a little thank you was included. This man has a huge heart and loves to help others so take him up on his offer if he says he can get you a working used part. Save yourselves some money.

So enjoy and gl on the job.
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Last edited by moiz21; 05-01-2011 at 05:40 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2011, 11:04 AM
genuity genuity is offline
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Didn't know they called this the LDP. I always knew it as the charcoal canister.

What kinds of codes did you get that merited a replacement?
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2011, 11:40 AM
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moiz21 moiz21 is offline
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It actually is called a charcoal canister as well. But when I got the initial code I found it under LDP.

And the code I got was from my brother's peake reader which was:
LDP - reed switch won't open.
Or something with that wording. Can't remember exactly and when I got an inspection at an indy he said it needed to be replaced too.
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  #4  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:56 PM
dslboomer dslboomer is offline
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moiz21,

Congratulations! And thanks for DIY.
It wasn't hard, was it? I remember you posted about EVAP canister a couple of weeks ago.
LDP is the leak detection pump, and it is attached to the carbon canister.
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2011, 04:28 AM
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moiz21 moiz21 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dslboomer View Post
moiz21,

Congratulations! And thanks for DIY.
It wasn't hard, was it? I remember you posted about EVAP canister a couple of weeks ago.
LDP is the leak detection pump, and it is attached to the carbon canister.
Thanks man . Nah definitely not hard at all. Reason I decided to go for it and figured it wouldn't be difficult, is because when I had an indy inspect it a few months ago he quoted me for about an hours worth of work. Seeing that, I knew it wouldnt be too hard so decided to go for it.
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2011, 08:08 AM
Tomkocz Tomkocz is offline
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Thanks for the DIY on Leak Det Pump

Thanks for this great writeup on the leak detection pump. Save me hundreds and was easy to do!!
Any idea how easy / hard to replace air injection check valve and electronic change over valve (part of emissions) on 2001 330i ??
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2011, 08:13 AM
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moiz21 moiz21 is offline
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Not a problem, congrats on getting it done. No clue though about the injection check valve or electronic change over valve. Never had to look into those parts.
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  #8  
Old 08-21-2012, 03:12 PM
notseancooper notseancooper is offline
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My check engine light came on and i took it to a shop and a week later I called them and they finally told me what the problem was and they told me that it was this part. The final quote was around $850. I said im good. My dad took his car which is a audi a5 and they mentioned my problem to the man and he said he would replace it for around $285, part included if that was even the problem. He said he would do a free check of my evap system to see if that was even the problem. Would it hurt to take it to him and let him check and if so is $285 alot for that part?
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  #9  
Old 08-21-2012, 04:54 PM
Tomkocz Tomkocz is offline
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Well here is what I know. I thought my check engine light was due to leak detection pump - I replaced it myself using above DIY - was Very easy to do. I think the part cost me around $135 (maybe from autpartswarehouse.com) . THe codes I think I was getting was P0491 P0492 Secondary Air Pump & Valve. If you are getting these codes i would DEFINITELY replace the vacuum hose (about $25 part) which goes from the Secondary Air Pump Valve around the back of the engine )its about 4 feet in length). I replaced the leak detection pump , the check valve, the solenoid - ALL related to the codes above - and did not need any of these - it was the vacuum line. If you search this forum you will find several threads on Secondary Air Pump issues and one of those threads will detail the vacuum line I am talking about. TRY THIS FIRST! It is simple to replace and cheap.
thanks
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:36 PM
Mickeyblu Mickeyblu is offline
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P1447. ?

Thx moiz21 for the info on LDP I'm thinking this May be the prob with the 2005 325i
Anyway thx
Mickeyblu
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  #11  
Old 09-16-2014, 04:49 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomkocz View Post
Well here is what I know. I thought my check engine light was due to leak detection pump - I replaced it myself using above DIY - was Very easy to do. I think the part cost me around $135 (maybe from autpartswarehouse.com) . THe codes I think I was getting was P0491 P0492 Secondary Air Pump & Valve. If you are getting these codes i would DEFINITELY replace the vacuum hose (about $25 part) which goes from the Secondary Air Pump Valve around the back of the engine )its about 4 feet in length). I replaced the leak detection pump , the check valve, the solenoid - ALL related to the codes above - and did not need any of these - it was the vacuum line. If you search this forum you will find several threads on Secondary Air Pump issues and one of those threads will detail the vacuum line I am talking about. TRY THIS FIRST! It is simple to replace and cheap.
thanks
Secondary air pump is indeed a totally different system and the vac hose is usually the first problem encountered with it so I agree with your analysis on your issue.

Looking through the e46 wiki you'll find lots of info on SA system.
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Old 09-16-2014, 04:50 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Excellent DIY moizzy. Added to WIKI. http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index...46#Fuel_System
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2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:41 AM
harleyrob harleyrob is offline
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What purpose does the LDP serve? I'm too new to know.
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DIY completed: New plugs, VCG, fuel filter, control arms, sway bar ends, complete cooling refresh, OFHG, Vanos oil line, differential fluid, new power steering reservoir, M1 0W40 oil change, door handle carrier:
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