Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E46 (1999 - 2006)

E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-01-2011, 10:33 AM
moiz21's Avatar
moiz21 moiz21 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Silver spring, md
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 682
Mein Auto: '99 323i 5-Spd
LDP - Leak Detection Pump/Charcoal Cannister DIY

Hey boys and girls, I've been a member going on 9 months and have saved thousands on maintenance on my car due to the amazing DIY's that have been provided by the community as a collective. Everyone has come together in an amazing fashion to help out in order to help save everyone the ache of forking over tons of money to dealers and indies who at the end of the day you dont even know if they did a good job or not because you obviously aren't going sit there and watch them every step of the way.

So anyway, that being said Thanks to all and here is a pretty easy DIY that should take anywhere from 30-90 minutes depending on the skill level and speed at which you work. Took me about about an hour and 15 minutes just cause I was going in blind since there doesn't seem to be any DIY instructions for this job.

Tools needed:
Rivet puller-Optional(not sure if thats the right name) or Pliers
10 mm socket
5/16 socket
Clamp

First off you need to jack the car up or use ramps. I used ramps and there was plenty of space to work. Once on the ramps/jacks get under the car. The pump is located on the right side (facing the front of the car from the trunk) of the spare tire well in the trunk. There is a plastic shield help on by 3 rivets that needs to be removed. It's fairly straight forward so didn't take pics of this step. You can use a set of pliers/rivet tool/flathead screwdriver to pull them out. At this point you should expose the LDP. See pic. There are 2 10mm bolts holding it in place. I would say leave these until the end once you get all the hoses off the pump just so you're not holding it up the whole time. Also I am pointing at a plug you need to disconnect from the pump. Make sure to pull it off.



There is one more plastic shield that is kind of part of the wheel well that should be removed. I dont think it's a 100% necessary but just makes life easier. Pic shows the shield. This is where the 5/16th socket comes into play. It has 2 nuts hold it in place, just take them off and set to the side. (I think its a 8mm nut but came across the 5/16th first and it worked so just went ahead with the job.



On the far side closest to the wheel there are the hoses that are connected to the LDP. Remove these three. Just reference the pics. First pic shows 2, there is a 3rd hose coming across. Reference the 2nd pic and you see the 3rd hose, just grip the sides and pull them off. Given that this is probably the original pump that came with the car, it was on there pretty good. I wedged a flathead in between the hose and the pump and while pressing the clips and pulling, used the flathead for leverage and worked the hose off.





These next two pics show where the hoses were connected just to give you guys/gals a better idea of what you're trying to do.





And this one shows the plug connection you separated.



Ok, one more thing before you can take the pump off. This pic is of the replacement pump which still had the clamps on. Remove the clamp which I'm pointing at. Use the flathead, pliers or whatever you can to get the clamp off. and just wiggle. You may need the flathead again to work the connection off since it's been on there for a while. Once that is off you can go ahead and remove the pump.



Ok that's it. Installation is the reverse. Extremely easy. The only other thing I would add is if you can, find a box or something to support the pump just so you don't snap anything off. And this is in regards to the hoses that are connected to the pump. Since they are old you may snap one by accident and I have no idea how to replace it so DONT DO IT
And last but not least, a HUGE thank you to smolck for getting me the pump. Average price of a new pump is anywhere in the range of $300+. Shad was able to get me a used, working pump for $135 including shipping and obviously a little thank you was included. This man has a huge heart and loves to help others so take him up on his offer if he says he can get you a working used part. Save yourselves some money.

So enjoy and gl on the job.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1.jpg
Views:	7195
Size:	63.8 KB
ID:	276872   Click image for larger version

Name:	2.jpg
Views:	10796
Size:	127.0 KB
ID:	276873   Click image for larger version

Name:	3.jpg
Views:	7606
Size:	104.9 KB
ID:	276874   Click image for larger version

Name:	4.jpg
Views:	7513
Size:	85.5 KB
ID:	276875   Click image for larger version

Name:	5.jpg
Views:	7089
Size:	138.2 KB
ID:	276876  

Click image for larger version

Name:	6.jpg
Views:	7227
Size:	82.3 KB
ID:	276877   Click image for larger version

Name:	7.jpg
Views:	8503
Size:	138.0 KB
ID:	276878   Click image for larger version

Name:	8.jpg
Views:	10063
Size:	162.1 KB
ID:	276879  
__________________

MODS
P46 Projectors + FX-R Retrofit + 6k D2S/ 60 LED AE's / Smoked LED Tails / Smoked Turn and Side Markers / BSW 10" Sub /ZHP Knob / Matte Black Grills / DICE / Parrot + Connects2 / OEM Alternative Alarm Mod / Clutch Switch Delay Mod / M3 Rep Front Bumper / 3M Black CF Di-Noc Wrap / K&N Intake / 35% Tint All Around / Black Short Eurotray / 545i Shifter

Last edited by moiz21; 05-01-2011 at 05:40 PM.
Reply With Quote
Advertisement
  #2  
Old 05-01-2011, 11:04 AM
genuity genuity is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: *
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 439
Mein Auto: 2001 330iS
Didn't know they called this the LDP. I always knew it as the charcoal canister.

What kinds of codes did you get that merited a replacement?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-01-2011, 11:40 AM
moiz21's Avatar
moiz21 moiz21 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Silver spring, md
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 682
Mein Auto: '99 323i 5-Spd
It actually is called a charcoal canister as well. But when I got the initial code I found it under LDP.

And the code I got was from my brother's peake reader which was:
LDP - reed switch won't open.
Or something with that wording. Can't remember exactly and when I got an inspection at an indy he said it needed to be replaced too.
__________________

MODS
P46 Projectors + FX-R Retrofit + 6k D2S/ 60 LED AE's / Smoked LED Tails / Smoked Turn and Side Markers / BSW 10" Sub /ZHP Knob / Matte Black Grills / DICE / Parrot + Connects2 / OEM Alternative Alarm Mod / Clutch Switch Delay Mod / M3 Rep Front Bumper / 3M Black CF Di-Noc Wrap / K&N Intake / 35% Tint All Around / Black Short Eurotray / 545i Shifter
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:56 PM
dslboomer dslboomer is offline
Registered User
Location: Show-me state
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 79
Mein Auto: 2001 330i
moiz21,

Congratulations! And thanks for DIY.
It wasn't hard, was it? I remember you posted about EVAP canister a couple of weeks ago.
LDP is the leak detection pump, and it is attached to the carbon canister.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-02-2011, 04:28 AM
moiz21's Avatar
moiz21 moiz21 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Silver spring, md
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 682
Mein Auto: '99 323i 5-Spd
Quote:
Originally Posted by dslboomer View Post
moiz21,

Congratulations! And thanks for DIY.
It wasn't hard, was it? I remember you posted about EVAP canister a couple of weeks ago.
LDP is the leak detection pump, and it is attached to the carbon canister.
Thanks man . Nah definitely not hard at all. Reason I decided to go for it and figured it wouldn't be difficult, is because when I had an indy inspect it a few months ago he quoted me for about an hours worth of work. Seeing that, I knew it wouldnt be too hard so decided to go for it.
__________________

MODS
P46 Projectors + FX-R Retrofit + 6k D2S/ 60 LED AE's / Smoked LED Tails / Smoked Turn and Side Markers / BSW 10" Sub /ZHP Knob / Matte Black Grills / DICE / Parrot + Connects2 / OEM Alternative Alarm Mod / Clutch Switch Delay Mod / M3 Rep Front Bumper / 3M Black CF Di-Noc Wrap / K&N Intake / 35% Tint All Around / Black Short Eurotray / 545i Shifter
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-08-2011, 08:08 AM
Tomkocz Tomkocz is offline
Registered User
Location: Avon
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 330i
Thanks for the DIY on Leak Det Pump

Thanks for this great writeup on the leak detection pump. Save me hundreds and was easy to do!!
Any idea how easy / hard to replace air injection check valve and electronic change over valve (part of emissions) on 2001 330i ??
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-08-2011, 08:13 AM
moiz21's Avatar
moiz21 moiz21 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Silver spring, md
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 682
Mein Auto: '99 323i 5-Spd
Not a problem, congrats on getting it done. No clue though about the injection check valve or electronic change over valve. Never had to look into those parts.
__________________

MODS
P46 Projectors + FX-R Retrofit + 6k D2S/ 60 LED AE's / Smoked LED Tails / Smoked Turn and Side Markers / BSW 10" Sub /ZHP Knob / Matte Black Grills / DICE / Parrot + Connects2 / OEM Alternative Alarm Mod / Clutch Switch Delay Mod / M3 Rep Front Bumper / 3M Black CF Di-Noc Wrap / K&N Intake / 35% Tint All Around / Black Short Eurotray / 545i Shifter
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-21-2012, 03:12 PM
notseancooper notseancooper is offline
Registered User
Location: Atlanta
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 2001 330i
My check engine light came on and i took it to a shop and a week later I called them and they finally told me what the problem was and they told me that it was this part. The final quote was around $850. I said im good. My dad took his car which is a audi a5 and they mentioned my problem to the man and he said he would replace it for around $285, part included if that was even the problem. He said he would do a free check of my evap system to see if that was even the problem. Would it hurt to take it to him and let him check and if so is $285 alot for that part?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-21-2012, 04:54 PM
Tomkocz Tomkocz is offline
Registered User
Location: Avon
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 28
Mein Auto: 330i
Well here is what I know. I thought my check engine light was due to leak detection pump - I replaced it myself using above DIY - was Very easy to do. I think the part cost me around $135 (maybe from autpartswarehouse.com) . THe codes I think I was getting was P0491 P0492 Secondary Air Pump & Valve. If you are getting these codes i would DEFINITELY replace the vacuum hose (about $25 part) which goes from the Secondary Air Pump Valve around the back of the engine )its about 4 feet in length). I replaced the leak detection pump , the check valve, the solenoid - ALL related to the codes above - and did not need any of these - it was the vacuum line. If you search this forum you will find several threads on Secondary Air Pump issues and one of those threads will detail the vacuum line I am talking about. TRY THIS FIRST! It is simple to replace and cheap.
thanks
__________________
tom koczon
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-15-2014, 10:36 PM
Mickeyblu Mickeyblu is offline
Registered User
Location: Chino ca
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2005 325i
P1447. ?

Thx moiz21 for the info on LDP I'm thinking this May be the prob with the 2005 325i
Anyway thx
Mickeyblu
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-16-2014, 04:49 AM
ahull's Avatar
ahull ahull is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Carolina
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,247
Mein Auto: ist schnell! (03 330i SC)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomkocz View Post
Well here is what I know. I thought my check engine light was due to leak detection pump - I replaced it myself using above DIY - was Very easy to do. I think the part cost me around $135 (maybe from autpartswarehouse.com) . THe codes I think I was getting was P0491 P0492 Secondary Air Pump & Valve. If you are getting these codes i would DEFINITELY replace the vacuum hose (about $25 part) which goes from the Secondary Air Pump Valve around the back of the engine )its about 4 feet in length). I replaced the leak detection pump , the check valve, the solenoid - ALL related to the codes above - and did not need any of these - it was the vacuum line. If you search this forum you will find several threads on Secondary Air Pump issues and one of those threads will detail the vacuum line I am talking about. TRY THIS FIRST! It is simple to replace and cheap.
thanks
Secondary air pump is indeed a totally different system and the vac hose is usually the first problem encountered with it so I agree with your analysis on your issue.

Looking through the e46 wiki you'll find lots of info on SA system.
__________________
2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-16-2014, 04:50 AM
ahull's Avatar
ahull ahull is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Carolina
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,247
Mein Auto: ist schnell! (03 330i SC)
Excellent DIY moizzy. Added to WIKI. http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index...46#Fuel_System
__________________
2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-16-2014, 06:41 AM
harleyrob harleyrob is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Magnolia State
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 508
Mein Auto: 2004 330 CI
What purpose does the LDP serve? I'm too new to know.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-24-2015, 09:43 AM
ahull's Avatar
ahull ahull is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Carolina
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,247
Mein Auto: ist schnell! (03 330i SC)
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyrob View Post
What purpose does the LDP serve? I'm too new to know.
Sorry for taking 5 months to reply.... Actually just looking around for some info and saw this.

The LDP or leak detection pump pressurizes the charcoal canister/emission control apparatus to allow for monitoring of fluctuations in pressure that would detect a leak in the system. It's an emissions control system (raw fuel) so if it's leaking, it's losing control.

That's my theory anyway.


For Reference: Trick to get EVAP and CCM to set to ready see this thread: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...highlight=evap , specifically posts #6-8 about idling for a brief period with the cas cap off/loose.
__________________
2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD

Last edited by ahull; 02-24-2015 at 09:53 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-13-2015, 09:24 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,951
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the crosslinked record, this was asked today...
> E46 (1999 - 2006) > Carbon Canister

Quote:
Originally Posted by GarageTech View Post
I replaced the Fuel Vapor Detection Pump a year ago and it stopped working again in a few weeks. I finally got to the pump out again this past weekend to check. So the pump makes noise but there is no suction or air coming out of it. When I tapped on the end of the pump that fits into the carbon canister, particles of carbon came out of the pump. The carbon freely falls out of the canister when the pump is removed.

My Question: Is this normal? or Is there a barrier thats needs to avoid the carbon particles from going into the pump?

Don't want to replace the Carbon Canister if not necessary.
Thanks for you help in advance.
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-25-2015, 06:00 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,951
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This was posted today...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > P1475 - leak diagnosis pump
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98OrientBlue View Post
I got a P1475 code, which points to the leak diagnosis pump. I have not found too much in the way of DIY on this.

Looking at the RealOEM diagram, it looks like the Leak diagnosis pump (16131184968) is part of the Activated charcoal filter assembly (16131183573). I'm thinking to just get the latter and do the whole thing "while I'm in there".

Anyone else run into this problem? Thoughts about replacing the charcoal filter vs just doing the diagnostic pump?

TIA
See also
- Debugging the gasoline evap purge valve sensor and purge control valve evaporative emissions fuel system vapor recovery P0440 P0441 P0442 P0444 P0445 P0446 P0451 P1403 and other fuel tank breather valve and gas cap leak obd codes (1) & a fuel injection LDP leak detection pump DIY (1) & a fuel system charcoal canister R&R DIY (1) & where is the fuel tank breather valve located (1) & tricks for resolving the P0455 diagnostic trouble code when the missing gas cap is replaced (1) & does spilled gasoline really go into the charcoal canister via the two steel vent holes in the fuel filler canister at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position and why is there a hole in the 6 o'clock position of my fuel filler hole rubber gasket (1)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E46 (1999 - 2006)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms