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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:13 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
DIY: 1998 528I Engine/Trans Mounts Replacement

DIY: 1998 528I Engine/Trans Mounts Replacement


Car is 1998 528I 5-speed with 115K miles. This is routine maintenance.
After I removed the Engine and Trans Mounts, they look old but no issues yet.
Engine Mount is oil-filled but no leakage yet, however it is about 5 mm shorter than new.



- It is best to replace BOTH Engine mounts and Trans Mounts at the same time. It is easier this way.
- Parts: use www.realoem.com to look for proper PNs.
- For my 1998 528I 5-speed:
* Engine Mounts PN 22116754608 ----> $44.00 x 2 = $88.00
* Man Trans Mounts: PN 22316771221 ----> $10.00 x 2 = $20.00
* Total = $108.00





GENERAL NOTES:
- There are 2 ways to do this:
a. Lift the engine up as high as necessary to clear the engine mounts. Potential issues with this technique:
* Quite a bit Pressure on Oil Pan, this has been done by many people with no issues.
* You have to remove Fan Clutch/Fan Shroud to allow engine to rise.
* There may be some strain on hoses, AC lines etc. Again, this has been done by many people with no issues, so do it at your own risks.
If you want to do it this way, see this thread by "EuroDavid" on roadfly forum:
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/128...6-cylinder-E39

b. However, from speaking with my BMW guru who prefers taking off the Engine Brackets. This way, there is no need to remove fan clutch or raising engine much at all.
So this DIY is based on this technique of taking off the Engine Brackets. It is easier than you think!

- Think about Engine and Trans as one unit because they are mated together.
- When lifting Oil Pan, lift as close to the FRONT as possible. The Oil Pan's edge vertical part is stronger than its hollow part.
- Lift also at the Trans to allow an even distribution of weight.
- Wear goggles as you will be looking UPWARD!

- Study the anatomy of an M52 Engine/Trans setup:









TOOLS:
- Two (2) separate jacks. I use 1 floor jack and 1 scissors jack.
- Metric sockets: 7-mm, 8-mm, 13-mm, 16-mm.
- Swivel Joint: this is a must!
- Extension with a length of at least 22", I use a combination of different lengths I have at home.
- I was in a hurry so I used a Leaf Blower to blow engine cool (I could not wait 2 h for engine to cool down)….....the Leaf Blower trick worked!




PROCEDURE:

* Get a box and place all the nuts and bolts in there to avoid losing them!!!

1. All 4 tires on wood ramps:




2. Remove Splash Shield (#2 Phillips screw driver) and set aside.
- Now place floor jack at the FRONT of Oil Pan and just apply gentle pressure so it does not move. Just snug.
- Note that I use two (2) pieces of 2x4 and old tire rubber as cushion.
- Also position the jack in such a way that it does not block you from working.




3. Now place the other jack under transmission. Just snug it for now.




4. Remove Air Mass Meter 1st (undo connector, unclip, then remove it).
Then remove Air Filter Housing and set aside. Further info here:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225


5. Now replace one engine mount at a time:
- Remove the Trans Mount's BOTTOM nuts (see below). This makes it easier to raise the engine a little bit.
- Loosen (do NOT remove) the PASSENGER's side Engine Mount 16-mm nuts. This allows the engine to move better.
- Now replace DRIVER's side Engine Mount. Undo the TOP and BOTTOM nuts (16-mm).




6. The Engine Bracket has 4 bolts (13-mm). You will need the swivel & extension to remove the bolts. If you do this during full sun then it is easy. Just feel for the bolt locations:




7. Now the bracket is moved sideway, lift engine mount to remove it.
Place the new engine mount in place, taking care to be sure "bump" on the mount lines up with the notch.
- Now re-install the Engine Bracket with 4 bolts. You may need to adjust the height of the engine up or down a bit.
When using Hydraulic Floor Jack, be careful when letting it down, you just want a slow release, otherwise the engine will drop down! Practice this on a jack pad first.
- Tighten Engine Bracket 4 bolts.
- Now Finger-tighten the BOTTOM and TOP nuts on the Engine Mounts but do not torque these nuts yet.







8. Now replace the Passenger's side Engine Mount.
- The heat shield is mounted via 4 bolts. The REARMOST attachment is on the swaybar bushing bracket…......leave this alone! Remove the 3 other bolts (7-mm and 8-mm), just feel around and you will see the 3 points of attachment.

- Now move the heat shield sideway.
- This allows you full access to the Engine Bracket. In contrast to Driver's side, the Passenger's Side Bracket bolts have to be removed from below.
- Note the "Stabilizer Bar" (labeled #1 in picture below) has 3 bolts. Remove only the bolt at the Engine Mount. For the other 2 bolts (on the engine itself), just loosen them, no need to remove these 2 bolts.







9. Once the new Engine Mount is in and Bracket is re-installed (tighten the bracket 4 bolts). Lower the engine so both brackets sit on the Engine Mounts.
IMPORTANT: Now tighten all engine mount nuts (4 total). This is the weighted-down position.

10. The Transmission Mounts job is straightforward!
- Apply gentle pressure on the jack to slightly raise the Trans a bit.
- Remove the Trans Mounts' TOP nuts (13-mm) using a wrench; the BOTTOM nuts were already removed (see above).
- The Trans Support Bar has a total of 6 bolts. Two (2) of these are blocked by the heat shield: use a wrench to loosen (no need to remove) these 2 bolts.
- Once the Trans Support Bar is angled down, replacing the Trans Mounts is straightforward! But….....install only the BOTTOM mount nuts for now, don't tighten them yet, just snug.
- Study the Trans Mount: it has a "bump" which goes to the trans slot, and a "notch" which goes to the notch on TOP of the Trans Support Bar. Feel your hand around and you will see it.
- Clean all sand, dirt, oil from the Trans Support Bar before bolting things back.
- Now re-install the Trans Support Bar 6 bolts snug; don't tighten them yet, just snug.
- Now lower the jack slowly to allow the trans to drop down.
- Now install the mount TOP nuts and finger-tighten them.
- Now tighten all 6 bolts on the Trans Support Bar
- Check the alignment of the mounts on the trans to be sure the "bump" and "notch" line up properly. You may need to jack up the trans a tiny bit so you can rotate the mount to line it up properly.
- Now tighten 4 nuts on the mounts only after the jack is lowered and the trans rests on the mounts.







This is it boys and girls. Now I need a beer!



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Last edited by cn90; 05-08-2011 at 09:27 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-08-2011, 01:42 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Another instant classic DIY from Cam!

I'm adding the following to the VERY best of E39 Links:
- Motor mounts (aka engine mounts) and transmission mounts (aka holders) DIYs for the BMW E39 I6 (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & for the V8 (1) (2) (3)

Last edited by bluebee; 05-08-2011 at 01:44 AM.
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2013, 02:53 AM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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[QUOTE=bluebee;6051287]Another instant classic DIY from Cam!


Agreed !!! You should see my phone's "bookmarks"... they are chock full of cn90 diy's.
This is my next project though.
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  #4  
Old 08-27-2013, 06:48 AM
chemist chemist is offline
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Parts are on the way for my 02 530. Does anyone have an idea what size is nut (part 9 in here http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=22&fg=05&hl=3) so I can pick up the right socket on my way home today. And out of curiosity, why is thing there in the first place? Why is it that the part 6 isn't enough by itself?
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  #5  
Old 08-27-2013, 06:59 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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FYI...#6 is for Wagon, #9 is for Sedan. It is over-thinking, over-engineering thingy.



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  #6  
Old 08-27-2013, 07:57 AM
chemist chemist is offline
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Makes you wonder what were they thinking over when they dreamt up this thingy. Accessibility?
By the way, where does info on the right come from? Is it some parts vendor?
Thanks
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  #7  
Old 08-27-2013, 08:11 AM
jfive96 jfive96 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i
- -I did this when I replaced my engine. Great detail DIY with pics! Keep up the good work.- -
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  #8  
Old 09-10-2013, 11:14 AM
chemist chemist is offline
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changed mounts couple of weeks ago. Did tranny mounts as you described. Opted out of removing the brackets, bolts were pain to access. Removed fan and lifter the engine by the pan. Used the spot just behind the subframe by the drain plug (there is a flat spot). Needed to move heat shield on the passenger side. This shield is held by three screws, removed front two and swivel it to the side to make space for mount removal.
What I learned from that? I should have disconnected the secondary air pump to valve hose. Now I'm getting a new one.
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  #9  
Old 10-20-2013, 04:56 PM
gomolka30 gomolka30 is offline
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I also just did my engine mounts today and I'd like to add a couple notes for the m54 engine.

1.) Accessing the driver's side is a bit more complicated with an m54 (though I'm not sure what the exact differences are). I also used the bracket removal procedure, and the bolts were harder to access than described. In addition to removing the air box and upper intake boot, I also removed the lower boot, DISA valve, and wiring harness mounting 2 nuts and 1 bolt. This allowed access towards the rear 2 bracket bolts (especially the upper rear). You will most likely be flying blind with these 2 bolts, and it is mostly done by feel. When replacing the bolts, start with the front 2 first and only finger tighten. This will allow the bracket to wiggle a little bit making it easier to find the rear threads blind.

2.) The passenger side is surprisingly easier than the driver side. There is no need to remove the heat shield, and the sway bar never comes into play. Access to all 4 bracket bolts is easily done from underneath the car with a standard ratchet and 13mm socket. I did break loose the top front bolt from above with an extension and swivel, but all 4 bolts were replaced from underneath the car without any issue. You may need either deep sockets or short extensions at this point. I used one or two 3" extensions. Once removed, the engine mount can find a path out either towards the front or rear of the car (I think). I didn't test the rear path, but there appears to be sufficient room. There definitely is enough room if you take the mount from underneath the car and fish it towards the direction of the fan. Just remember that path and install the new mount in reverse.

The only thing i didn't have were torque specs, so all the 13mm bolts were done by feel. Probably around 25-30 fl.lb.. I did the engine mounts, both top and bottom, at 55 ft.lb. If someone could add torque specs it would help ease my mind.

I ran out of light, so the tranny mounts will have to wait till next weekend. A test drive did show slight improvement, but not a full cure. Now the suspects are the tranny mounts or flex disk. I've felt a bad center support bearing before on a different car, and this does not appear to be the issue. My old passenger mount was compressed significantly, so it was not all for naught,
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:14 PM
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aa240sx aa240sx is offline
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Thanks for the write up. I'm posting up my experience doing this on a 2003 525i 5 speed.

Parts I purchased were both the motor and transmission mounts from autohausaz.

Though I planned to remove the mounts using the engine bracket mount method, the lack of visibility of the 4 bolts that need to be removed kept me from this part of the process.

I did remove the fan and fan clutch but did not have to move or temporarily relocate the fan shroud.

I did not have to move or relocate any of the lines attached to the engine. If I had to guess, I would say I lifted the engine from the oil pan no more than 2 to 3 inches.

For me, access to the top bolt on the drivers side mount was very easy. Passenger side was very tough and once you have the access you will need a deep socket 16mm wrench.

The passenger side was really tough especially with the heat shield. You'll need to remove two 7mm bolts and an 8mm bolt so you can move this heat shield out of the way.

The other tricky part of the motor mount job is lining up the bolts to pass through the bracket bolt holes as you're lowering the engine. If you have a buddy available he could lower the jack while you line the bolt and bolt hole up. But if it's a one man job, what you can do is just try to temporarily keep the mount positioned for alignment with some sponge or cardboard folded up. You'll know what I mean once you get to this point.

As for the transmission mounts, I did not remove the bracket or move it temporarily. For me, I was able to remove the mounts insitu removing only the bolts that hold the mounts.

Total time was about 3 1/2 hours. Definitely a doable job but make sure you've got socket extensions and a deep socket set. You'll also want to know how to properly jack up your car on all four corners.
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Last edited by aa240sx; 02-01-2014 at 08:18 PM.
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2014, 09:09 PM
chemist chemist is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aa240sx View Post
I'm posting up my experience doing this on a 2003 525i 5 speed.
That was my experience also, except I did brake SAP to valve plastic hose (it was old and brittle). I reused the hardware without thread locker just put back on tight all is fine after approx 3k miles.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:49 AM
repandpresent repandpresent is offline
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The pictures aren't showing anymore. Anyway you can upload them again? For some reason this always happen when I start to do a DIY!!!
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  #13  
Old 08-12-2014, 11:23 AM
chemist chemist is offline
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I see all pics
try another browser or something
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Old 08-12-2014, 01:27 PM
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GSA1 GSA1 is offline
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I see the pics too
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:58 PM
coopermancm coopermancm is offline
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I just finished replacing the engine mounts on my 2002 E39 that probably has the M54 engine as the description from gmolka30 matches exactly what I had to do, but contributed to a problem in the when tightening one of the engine mount 16mm bolts to the 55 lb ft mentioned, the nut gave. It may just be a bad part, but it highlights that the correct torque values really need to be added to this discussion. Otherwise, this was a well written and easy to follow example of a DIY solution.
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Old 04-06-2016, 04:53 PM
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Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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motor mounts 528i

cn 90: Any 'update' or new 'tips' regarding the procedure you posted way back when?

I've got a somewhat 'collapsed' passenger side mount, so looks like this job is on my radar for the not too distant future.

Comments from others on I-6 motor mount R&R?

Thanks/Bill
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:13 AM
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Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Can anyone chime in on this? I'm leery of lifting the motor via jack under oil pan...thinking lift from above is better idea.
Thanks/Bill
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  #18  
Old 04-09-2016, 06:40 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Bill, you can get one of those engine hoists that rests on the channels on each side of the engine compartment, like this:

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Old 04-09-2016, 07:11 AM
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Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Hi Bob...that is exactly what I'm thinking of using. There is a DIY shop near me, $20/hr. To rent a car lift station; just confirmed they have engine hoist so I think I'm set on this next car project.. Here's the DIY place: http://www.sandiegoufixitauto.com/ Beats jackstands in the garage!
Thanks/Bill
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Last edited by Wgosma; 04-09-2016 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:28 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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No need for that tool from Harbor Freight.

If you look at the original photos I posted above (from May 2011)...
- The jack + wood + rubber cushion is placed at the very front of the oil pan. This is the strongest part of the oil pan.
- I didn't even lift the engine, the jack + wood + rubber cushion is there only to support the engine.
- By removing the brackets, I eliminated the need to raise the engine.

My cousin, who owns a BMW indy shop in L.A., showed the trick of removing the brackets instead of jacking the engine.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:42 AM
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boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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x2 on bracket removal. I also jacked mine at the pan with a piece of wood for more clearance. It's only for a few minutes. Pull out the old, pop in the new and you're done.
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:15 AM
deyrag deyrag is offline
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Just did this on mine. Really glad I ran across this post.

Actually ended up doing passenger side twice as the first new mount leaked as soon as it had any weight on it. Probably 20 minutes max the second time.
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:42 AM
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Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Thanks for info/confirmation in bracket removal method. I do have access to a lift and hoist, so may go this route and just use hoist to hold motor from above. Perhaps bit more convenient than working with car only raised a few inches off the ground.
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  #24  
Old 04-28-2016, 01:36 PM
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Wgosma Wgosma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
Bill, you can get one of those engine hoists that rests on the channels on each side of the engine compartment, like this:

Well Bob,
I setup to do the mount replacement this morning, using the 'jack under the oil pan' method. I guess I'm getting conservative in my old age....after beginning to lift the motor I was feeling nervous and pulled the plug on the job; maybe I'll just order one of those cross-bars as you mentioned, they're not very expensive..... and I'll get to doc to prescribe some valium then I'll be all set! Or go try out the new Indy shop I located, they'll do the job with my supplied parts for $160, not bad.

Thanks/Bill
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Last edited by Wgosma; 04-28-2016 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:03 PM
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98 528i
- 18 years
- 212K miles

These original motor mounts would have been good for additional milesClick image for larger version

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Last edited by Wgosma; 05-14-2016 at 03:40 PM.
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