2011 Navigation Map Update DIY for CIC models (2009+) Here

Originally Posted by minus13

Actually, the charger was only drawing approximately 14 to 18 AMPS during the upgrade process, so you wouldn't need a 50A charger in my opinion.

Just a heads up.

it depends on what kind of car you update!
(some of the cars when the ignition ON,used to 30A)
Depending on the configuration CAR AND BATTERY CONDITION.
and DEPENDING what charger you use,
tips:turn off DAY LIGHT lights and climatronic through i-drive menu,
In any event, Offered to monitor the process.

Originally Posted by RedsoxMurphy

Did you figure out a way to update without running the car? I'm having the same problem. I put in the key did NOT touch the brake and pressed start twice. It still shuts off.
2009 328ix

It would be great if the update as well as obtaining the code would take only 10 minutes
I suggest starting a car,
standard charger will not be sufficient,
standard charger gives a maximum of 4-10A
need a professional charger, I assure you.
I did it many times

If your willing to be patient, it took about 2.5 hours of driving to update. I just let the system update during my normal commuting. Took 1.5 days (approx. 2.5 hours of driving). The Nav and all iDrive systems seem to continue to work fine during the update. When it finishes, iDrive will reboot, even while driving.

I just left my car running and locked the door. I switched off the DRLs so as not to draw too much attention in the parking garage.

Took 2.5 hours. Needed to go back twice to change the disk.

after few days I will have information how to make update via USB using only one USB, the update should take about 40 minutes.

Originally Posted by sieras5

after few days I will have information how to make update via USB using only one USB, the update should take about 40 minutes.

This I would be VERY interested in. Thanks!

Originally Posted by sieras5

after few days I will have information how to make update via USB using only one USB, the update should take about 40 minutes.

Yes, I'm sure many members would like to take advantage of that install method.

I got the charger out and put it on 10Amps. The tricky part is, although I pressed the start button 2x's, when I opened the driver's door to get out it would still time out. Several more tries of 2 pushes ( the same way) did the trick even after opening the driver's door.

***************** is trustworthy, he got back to me with the code within 1 hour of payment. Thanks!

The only trouble is the North America 2012 info still does not show the road I live on that is over 2 years old. My car is a 2009 and this is my first update, so I hope there's something in the map that makes it worth while???

I'm confused, there is no way you need 50A of power in a car that's not running. Nothing in the CIC pulls that kind of current, not even close. It's a display screen and a hd and junk. A 15A circuit in your home can run more than that. Yes I know it's 12v vs 120v, but this stuff is low voltage by design.

When the car is running and the alternator is stepping it up for ignition, or for starting CCAs, sure I understand higher numbers. But to run a computer and spin up a dvd, I have a hard time finding where that that amperage is required--or couldnt be offset by a battery tender. Sieras has done this many times I'm sure, I just want to understand the process better.

Originally Posted by fordperf

I'm confused, there is no way you need 50A of power in a car that's not running. Nothing in the CIC pulls that kind of current, not even close. It's a display screen and a hd and junk. A 15A circuit in your home can run more than that. Yes I know it's 12v vs 120v, but this stuff is low voltage by design.

When the car is running and the alternator is stepping it up for ignition, or for starting CCAs, sure I understand higher numbers. But to run a computer and spin up a dvd, I have a hard time finding where that that amperage is required--or couldnt be offset by a battery tender. Sieras has done this many times I'm sure, I just want to understand the process better.

in most cases sufficient Charger 15-18 A
BUT IF BATTERY Bottom BE MUCH MORE
50A to maximum it is that there is no shortage of
activated when the ignition switch the entire system,
without CIC navigation brings significant energy consumers.

Originally Posted by RedsoxMurphy

I got the charger out and put it on 10Amps. The tricky part is, although I pressed the start button 2x's, when I opened the driver's door to get out it would still time out. Several more tries of 2 pushes ( the same way) did the trick even after opening the driver's door.

***************** is trustworthy, he got back to me with the code within 1 hour of payment. Thanks!

The only trouble is the North America 2012 info still does not show the road I live on that is over 2 years old. My car is a 2009 and this is my first update, so I hope there's something in the map that makes it worth while???

I tried one more trick
clicked the START button,
I closed the door through the open window,
I noticed when I open the door to the system goes to sleep,
So I suggest you press the START button through the closed door window, or sit in the car without opening the door

it to be accurate, code I sent to you after 11 minutes.Many thanks Murphy.

I agree, not all roads be included in the updates
but the longer the exercise really see a lot of addition.

Originally Posted by fordperf

I'm confused, there is no way you need 50A of power in a car that's not running. Nothing in the CIC pulls that kind of current, not even close. It's a display screen and a hd and junk. A 15A circuit in your home can run more than that. Yes I know it's 12v vs 120v, but this stuff is low voltage by design.

The problem is, in order to do the update the ignition needs to be "on" or the car has to be running. It can't be in just 'radio ready' (or ACC) mode. So while you are correct that the items necessary for the update don't require that much juice, there are a LOT of things running in the car that you can't shut off (fuel pump is primed, ignition circuit is live, etc). Even some of the HVAC stuff is still running. And don't forget the DVD player running draws more than probably the HD and display combined. A 10A charger will suffice though. But definitely not a trickle charger.

Success! I updated my maps to the 2012 edition with this method yesterday evening. Entirely trouble-free so I thought I'd post my method. It is exactly as described earlier in this thread, but with a few additional details.

Wanting to minimize battery drain I parked my car in my garage, wound down both front windows, and turned off the auto headlights. If you have daylight running lights turn those off too. I turned off the HVAC fans by selecting the 0-speed on the fan. Then I programmed button '6' of my programmable buttons to toggle the iDrive display on/off.

With the car fully off I connected my battery charger, in 10A mode, to the posts under the hood. Even though I have comfort access I put a key in the dashboard slot and brought the car up to 'full-on' by pressing the start button twice with my foot OFF the brake.

Here is a picture of my initial map version:


While sitting in the driver seat I initiated the update by simply inserting DVD #1 (of 3, see my earlier post in this thread - $6.99 from BMW) into the DVD/CD slot and within a few seconds it recognized the update disc:


After selecting Update I was prompted for the FSC which I purchased from sergej (see my earlier post in this thread):


Which I entered using the iDrive knob and triple-checked:


The update began:


While updating the temporary additional selection under Navigation/Options appeared:


After returning to the progress indicator I hopped out of the car, closed the door, and reached back in through the driver's window to quickly cycle the car through radio-ready, off, radio-ready and back to full-on. By doing it quickly, tap-tap-tap-tap, the iDrive did not initiate any shutdown activity and continued to read the DVD. Opening the door would also have started the shut-down timer so by reaching back in through the window to start the process I bypassed that and the car thought I was still inside. To be safe I then went to the passenger window and reached in to use button '6' which I had programmed to toggle the display on/off and turned off the display. My battery charger at this point was showing an output of 7.5A, which is about 90W. About what I would expect.

I used the persisting blue-tooth connection to my phone to check that the car was still 'on' while I was watching TV just within range, but for the first disc I couldn't resist returning the car and reaching through the passenger window to toggle the display and check on progress. My first disc took an hour to load. When it was finished the display turned back on automatically so the last time I returned to the car I immediately knew it was done.

Without opening the passenger door I ejected disc 1 and inserted disc 2. An hour later I returned to the car and found it had also completed so I inserted disc 3. That took slightly less time to load - between 30 and 40 minutes. I was greeted with this message when I returned to the car:


When I accepted the update the iDrive automatically restarted but when it finished initializing and I checked the map version the field was blank! Momentary anxiety! I noticed that the maps were behaving extremely sluggishly so something compute or disc intensive was happening. I decided to leave the car to do its thing for a while and left it connected to the charger in 'full on' for another hour. (I had other things to do so I didn't check on it). An hour later normal map agility was restored. For good measure I rebooted the iDrive by holding down the radio on/off button until the reboot triggered. After that reboot the version screen showed this reassuring information:


Enjoy! If anyone in the metro-Phoenix area and especially the Tempe/Chandler border wants to borrow my set of DVDs they are welcome to. Send me a Private Message. I bought mine from the local BMW dealer for $6.99 so they are inexpensive enough, but it may be quicker and easier to borrow mine. Plus the fewer sets of discs being sold the less likely it is that BMW will do something to stymie this DIY procedure.

Frank.

Awesome FrankAZ, this was the write-up I was looking for! I have a Battery Tender Plus, I don't think I can specify the output--it's all automatic. I hope it works the same way.

I am going to do the update this weekend. Unfortunately I do not think I have a 2+ hour block of time to do it in one shot.

Someone said that it can be done in increments. Anyone confirm this? Can I do 1 hour, switch off the car, come back and resume where I left off with no hassles?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Submariner

I am going to do the update this weekend. Unfortunately I do not think I have a 2+ hour block of time to do it in one shot.

Someone said that it can be done in increments. Anyone confirm this? Can I do 1 hour, switch off the car, come back and resume where I left off with no hassles?

Thanks

Yes. See post 128:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...&postcount=128

He did his over several days of normal commuting.

The update can be done in increments. I just let mine update during my daily commute. It took about 1.5 round trips (about 2.5 hours of driving). The update would always pretty much pick up where it left off. I had started the third disk, but did not finish at the end of the first day. When I started the morning of the second day, It did ask for my first disk, but quickly jumped to the end, and the same with the second disk. Once I inserted the third disk, it picked up where it had left off the previous day, and then completed the update. iDrive rebooted during my drive (after asking if it was okay) and all was well after. No problems noted.

Originally Posted by Submariner

I am going to do the update this weekend. Unfortunately I do not think I have a 2+ hour block of time to do it in one shot.

Someone said that it can be done in increments. Anyone confirm this? Can I do 1 hour, switch off the car, come back and resume where I left off with no hassles?

Thanks

Hallo,
For all my clients I could give inctruction, how update maps via USB (updates takes about 37minutes).You have had 3 USB(16GB+16GB+8GB) or you have had one USB- after the first DVD you have to quickly delete usb and add to the USB 2 dvd contents,as well as the third DVD.If you have one USB, update time depends on your finger dexterity

So you have to use 3 usb's. You can not put all 3 disc on one usb? Do you put the usb in the slot in the console or glovebox?

I have already done the 2012 maps. I paid $197 for my code not knowing about Sieras5. I sat in my car with headlights and A/c fans off and started the car for about 5 minutes between disc and had no problems.

sieras5's messaage
"XE-XE
I will give you a little secret
Everything is very simple
2011 years of the last two letters in the code is BQ,
and in 2012 the last two letter code is a CA,
So with the 2011 code not update 2012 map,
and the 2012 code is not updated the 2013 map
hope I satisfy your curiosity
regards
__________________
BMW E60 DIESEL 170kw,navi CIC PREMIUM,ALL QUESTIONS ***************** "

So if only the last two digits/characters change for the map code can we guess what those letters will be for 2013.
2011=BQ
2012=CA
2013=A? my guess is Y or J
This means I can use my 2012 map code and start with A and guess other letters until it works. Is that correct?

Originally Posted by CC Brown

So you have to use 3 usb's. You can not put all 3 disc on one usb? Do you put the usb in the slot in the console or glovebox?

He wrote that you can use 3 or 1 USB, although it seems like for the 3 USB option, it's still actually only 1 smaller USB stick, and he is wiping it after each disc, and then copying the next disc onto the same USB stick:

Originally Posted by sieras5

Hallo,
For all my clients I could give inctruction, how update maps via USB (updates takes about 37minutes).You have had 3 USB(16GB+16GB+8GB) or you have had one USB- after the first DVD you have to quickly delete usb and add to the USB 2 dvd contents,as well as the third DVD.If you have one USB, update time depends on your finger dexterity

My dealer stated that they can do it via a single 32Gb stick in the glovebox port.

As for the FSC Code:

Originally Posted by CC Brown

sieras5's messaage
"XE-XE
I will give you a little secret
Everything is very simple
2011 years of the last two letters in the code is BQ,
and in 2012 the last two letter code is a CA,
So with the 2011 code not update 2012 map,
and the 2012 code is not updated the 2013 map
hope I satisfy your curiosity
regards
__________________
BMW E60 DIESEL 170kw,navi CIC PREMIUM,ALL QUESTIONS ***************** "

So if only the last two digits/characters change for the map code can we guess what those letters will be for 2013.
2011=BQ
2012=CA
2013=A? my guess is Y or J
This means I can use my 2012 map code and start with A and guess other letters until it works. Is that correct?

I don't think he is saying that only the last two digits change, rather all the digits change, with the last two digits being version (e.g. 2011, 2012, etc.) specific.

Originally Posted by CC Brown

So you have to use 3 usb's. You can not put all 3 disc on one usb? Do you put the usb in the slot in the console or glovebox?


So if only the last two digits/characters change for the map code can we guess what those letters will be for 2013.
2011=BQ
2012=CA
2013=A? my guess is Y or J
This means I can use my 2012 map code and start with A and guess other letters until it works. Is that correct?

You have had 3 USB (16GB+16GB+8GB) or you have had 1 USB (16GB and you have quickly delete usb and add others DVD'S contents in USB). Read instruction below.
Downloaded ISO IMAGE (in one DVD ISO one yellow file and one white confix file),put one disk image to one empty USB, FAT32 format!
The second disk to the second USB, the third In the third USB!
Do not put all three dvd image into one USB!(does not work -it tested!!)
The USB connection is in glove box!
You have had 3 USB or after the first DVD you have to quickly delete usb and add to the USB 2 dvd contents,as well as the third DVD.
Update takes for 37 min. if you have 3 USB, if you have one USB, it all depends on your finger dexterity


no you are wrong, the codes are different in principle, not only in the last two letters,
under those two letters can be seen at any year subtitle code.

My dealer stated that they can do it via a single 32Gb stick in the glovebox port.

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So your dealer is right, this option i could offer for you a few days as well.

with best wishes
Sergej

and all I want to apologize for my bad English, it is not my main language.

Originally Posted by sieras5

My dealer stated that they can do it via a single 32Gb stick in the glovebox port.

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So your dealer is right, this option i could offer for you a few days as well.

with best wishes
Sergej

and all I want to apologize for my bad English, it is not my main language.

Good deal. Thanks

Do you need to put the ISO on the USB in the special way that maintains the boot sector of the ISO? Or can you simply 'drag and drop' the files from the ISO onto the USB?

Also trying to find out if the USB in the glovebox is v1.1 or v2.0, can't seem to find that out via search