Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > X Series > X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)

X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-23-2011, 08:57 PM
jwmarc jwmarc is offline
Registered User
Location: columbia
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 740I sport
Starter motor replacement 04 X3- 3.0

The car would not start a couple of weeks ago- cranked but would not start- so I towed it to the dealer. The technician said the car was flooded and got it started by cranking the starter for a long time. Since then the car seemed to labor a bit turning over... The car yesterday would not crank.. I checked voltages and the battery was fine. I figured the starter was the problem so I tapped it with a hammer and it cranked / started. Performed some additional starts..you could tell the starts were getting labored and then another freeze up.. so now I have the new starter and am about to install it... So the question is ... do I go in from the top and remove a lot of parts or is there a way to go in from underneath the car with a little less hassle..

Who has tackled this and what is the best approach... The dealer cost for labor is $550...There was a time when starter motors were easy to get to.... yeah I know..it was a longtime ago.

Any help would be appreciated.
Reply With Quote
Advertisement
  #2  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:56 PM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: British Columbia, Canada
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,833
Mein Auto: 2004 X3 2.5i
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwmarc View Post
... So the question is ... do I go in from the top and remove a lot of parts or is there a way to go in from underneath the car with a little less hassle..
Haven't done it, but from what I have read, it's more difficult than you'd expect.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...84-Starter.htm

For your M54 engine, it apparently can all be done from underneath, whereas for the 2007+ N52, you have to work from above and remove the intake manifold.

With the M54, it will probably involve removing some of the oil separator components - so if the hoses are brittle, you will end up replacing them at the same time.
Which in itself is one of the least liked jobs on a BMW.
But it's not necessary to remove the transmission as implied in the Pelican article.


Even when you finally have access to the starter motor, loosening the torx bolts requires some patience because of limited room by all accounts.

Good luck, and hopefully you can report back that it went better than expected.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-24-2011, 07:37 AM
John320 John320 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Ontario,Canada
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 206
Mein Auto: 2008 X3.0si
Some more help here, plus Torque is 45 Nm.( 1AZ )

Last edited by John320; 05-24-2011 at 07:48 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-25-2011, 09:09 PM
jwmarc jwmarc is offline
Registered User
Location: columbia
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 740I sport
X3 Starter replacement

Well it wasnt easy and it was a pain to replace.... I thought about going in from the top but when I saw all the stuff I would have to remove I decided to try going at it from below ( BTW a BMW mechanic said that was the way).

1.First disco battery. Jack the car up at least 1 to two feet and remove the right front tire...

2. Disconnect the vacum hoses to the black cannister in front of the starter.. This is a device which controls the muffler decel flap... there is also a bracket which it is affixed to which should be removed... 13m sockets takes this out.

3. Remove the first small black wire to the right terminal of the solenoid and then the main battery connection... note there are two spade connctors for the primary wire connection. Leave the other small connection on the unit ( BLK/Yellow wire).

4. The bolts that hold the starter in are E-14 torx sockets.. and they are a pain to get at so you have to use the following... and probably get some help.

A. Use 3/8 in wobble extension bars with the E-14 socket to get at the closest torx head bolt. I used a set I purchased from Harbor Freight- 3 piece 2", 3" and 6 or 8" inch. $8.00.

B. The other bolt is a real pain and YOU MUST GET A 36" 3/8 extension bar if you want to be able to get at it... oh yeah you also need to get another wobble set extension bar... a total of six wobble extension and the 36" extension bar allowed me to angle in over the transmission and get to the far side torx bolt.. BTW I removed the 4 bolts holding the cross brace of the transmission ... this allowed the trans to flex down about 1-2" to get the long extensions up to the torx head blot. SUPPORT THE TRANS WITH A SMALL JACK!! I used a bottle jack. I had to get myself situated up by the starter and had a friend feed the multi-extension bar up to me and I blind guided the E-14 socket onto the head bolt.. make sure you helper keeps forward pressure on the rod extension assembly. Have the helper loosen via a 1/2 ratchet wrench while you keep the E-14 solidly planted on the head of the bolt. Hold it through the lossening process and keep your fingers on it to prevent it from getting away from you...

C. Now that both bolts are out you need to remove the bolt ( 13mm) that holds the dip stick bracket. Next you will have to pry up the dip stick bracket and hard pipe where it penetrates the engine case.. YOU DO NOT WANT TO COMPLETELY SEPARATE the pipe from the engine case.. You just need to get it up 2-3" so you have clearance to drop the starter down through the chassis.

D. Tap the starter with a long pry bar or screw driver towards the front of the car. Dont bang it out completely just enough to lossen the starter from the housing... NOTE there is a 3/4" long metal dowel that is at the top of the triangle 12 oclock 3 and 9 being the torx bolts. This dowel will support the starter until you are ready to work it free and drop it down through the chassis frame... and remember you have the BLK/yellow wire still attached.

5. Replacement is the reverse... BUT KEEP an EYE on the metal DOWEL PIN. I mounted it in the starter and pushed it flush with the front of the starter flang/ housing so I could push into the bell housing once I got the starter situated and had started the first Torx bolt in.. which took me a while since I just could not seem to get the right angle to mate up the bolt and start threading without cross threading. Once the bolt was started and tighten down I back it off a little so I could then make sure of the dowel pin alignment and pushed it in to seat into its mating hole on the trans case. This alignment and the final tightening of the first bolt would allow the blind bolt installation to go smoother... belive me I walked away 5-6 times during the tear down and probably 3-4 times during the build back....

6. The wobble extension rods and the 36" 3/8 extension rods were absolutely essential!!

7. BMW labor to replace $550. Starter replacement with core return $228.00. 36" extension bar $18.00 ( cheap ) and two sets of wobble extenisons ( Harbor Freight $8.00 apiece). 6 piece E-socket ( TORX) set $8.00 again Harbor freight.

8. Total time to replace 4.5 hours over 3 nights... not horrific but a challenged replacement.

9. Fired right up... less than a sec it caught as opposed to the 2-3 seconds it was taking before.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-26-2011, 06:38 AM
X3-terrestrial's Avatar
X3-terrestrial X3-terrestrial is offline
Aficionado
Location: N.Miss - Memphis,TN Area
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,844
Mein Auto: '05 X3, '02 M3, '91 E30
Good job! Thanks for the instructions, will add this to the DIY thread.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-14-2012, 03:47 PM
motorcyc motorcyc is offline
Registered User
Location: florida
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: x3
replacing starter 2004 X3

This is how I changed the starter on my 2004 BMW X3.
First I searched on line for a TORX wrench. Found one and ordered it. when I got it,,, I cut it in half and welded them together in a slight angle. This was done because you need a slight angle so when you install the starte, it will give you more leverage when you tighten the Torx bolts.

After disconnecting the battery you then remove that vacuum cylinder in front of the starter. Remove the wires. Now with your new TORX 12 box end
1. Reach and find the bolts. They are right below the fire wall and behind the starter.
2. With the TORX wrench loosen both of them.
3. Now get a 3/8 ratchet wrench and remove the TORX bolts that you loosened. NEVER use the 3/8 wrench to loosen or tighten the TORX bolts, you will strip them. It is used to ratchet the bolts off and on. Rather than sit there for hours with the TORX wrench.
4. Shake the starter off.
5. Install the new one in the reversed order. Remember the 3/8 is only used when the bolts are loose.
This is what I used. E12 x E14 Torx Box Wrench. but you can get a set @

http://www.eautotools.com/S-K-Hand-T...p/skt86211.htm
Or contact Manny @... webmaster@eautotools.com
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-29-2014, 10:33 PM
iknowcisco iknowcisco is offline
Registered User
Location: Alabama
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: 2013 328i + 2006 X3
+1 to Motorcyc...

I followed a similar path for starter-swap on my wife's X3 - refusing to remove the air plenum, intake, etc. I did the CCV/oil seperator a few months ago and should be horse-whipped for not replacing starter when I was in there. The X3 has 120k miles, so I knew I was on borrowed time with the OEM starter. FWIW - the CCV/oil seperator is about a 4 of 10. A starter swap is a total PITA, and rates a 6 of 10 on my scale.

Here's my two-cents worth and the generic steps that led to me getting my F30 328 back so she could get returned to the road (and outta my car!):

**Hardware needed: 1-starter motor of your choice and budget. I prefer the good stuff, but to each his own. 1-3/8" SPLINE socket. Not a regular 3/8" socket, but one that will fit 12 point, 6 point, round etc. Autozone, Advanced, Napa sells them. They are in a kit. You'll also need many assorted wobble-extenstions and 3/8" universals. I had to create about 36" of extension to give me the leverage to get the two starter bolts out.

1. Disco battery.
2. Jack up and remove driver's side tire. Use jack stands and scotch the right rear tire. Let's be safe now.
3. Remove vaccuum tank in front of starter motor (careful - these small hoses could be brittle). 13mm nut holds the tank to the frame.
4. Remove the single 13mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. Gently remove the oil seperator drain-back tube. Move/position dipstick so it will not interfere with starter removal.
5. Using blind-luck, locate the farthest torx bolt sitting at the top of the trans housing. You'll have to feel for it. It will be very close to a hard-line for fuel. It will be the only torx bolt the 3/8" spline socket will fit. Take your overly bulky and insane contraption of wobble extensions that you created to give you about 36" of extension. This should put you along the drive shaft near the transfer case to give you the leverage you need to ease that bolt out.
6. The second and last bolt is easy to see and follows the same concept as step 5.
7. Disconnet the ignition and battery wires off the old starter and wiggle the old starter out. You'll need an 8mm and 10mm socket.
8. Stop now and inspect your replacement starter to make sure they are a spot-on match. Also stop to peek in at the fly wheel and make sure it's all kosher and not chipped-up.
9. Take a small wire brush and clean the mating surface on the flywheel housing and the mouting peg. This will make your life easier when the new one is married-up.
10. Installation is the reverse. You saved yourself a ton of money with this DIY and you didnt have to remove the intake!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-28-2014, 09:33 PM
adsmond adsmond is offline
Registered User
Location: Fremont MI
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 530i, X3
You should be nominated for sainthood. Thanks to you this repair went smoothly and it was much easier than it should have been. The new one was installed after work before dinner. You da man!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-06-2015, 09:42 AM
Local Motion Local Motion is offline
Registered User
Location: Canada
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2004 BMW X3
Hi There,
I have the same 2004 BMW X3 issue. I would like to tap the starter but I am not sure how to get to it. I just want to get it going so I can drop it off at the garage. Would you be able to help at all possibly with a picture. Is it possible to access without taking things apart? It is -40 outside today so I hope I can avoid this Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-06-2015, 10:42 AM
jwmarc jwmarc is offline
Registered User
Location: columbia
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 740I sport
There is no way to access the starter from the engine bay ( X3 3.0 )... You have to get to it from under the vehicle..Removing the underpan is required .... with your temps I would recommend just having it towed....BTW I attempted to tap on my starter/ solenoid... didnt work...
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-03-2016, 04:43 PM
Selektor Selektor is offline
Registered User
Location: Portland
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 545i
X3 Starter Replacement

Thanks to all who have posted on this topic before. It was a tremendous help and not sure if I could have done it without you!!

To confirm: this job is a complete pain in the butt.

However, I was able to tackle this job in one afternoon.

At first I thought is was going to be impossible to remove (and then replace) the E14 bolt at the top of the transmission.
I had to take a few breaks and come back to it. I may have learned to contort my body and bend my bones, but I was able to do it without an assistant.

Take a look at the extension setup that I used to get to that bolt on top!

I removed the transmission support and lower the tranny a couple of inches. This is the spot where I fed the long extension up to reach the top bolt - yes, all that distance. Unbelievable.

Once that bolt was removed, I knew it was all downhill from there, even though each and every step along the way seemed to be incredibly difficult.

It didn't help that my replacement starter was about 2 inches longer that the original, but I eventually got it in there and bolted it back in. Started right up!

As tough as this job is, it is doable. And well worth saving a lot of money!
All in, I was about $200 in comparison to the $800-$1000 at the dealership. Well worth the time and aggravation.
In the end, I have a big sense of accomplishment.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	189
Size:	264.0 KB
ID:	569352  
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-17-2016, 03:59 PM
jakehammond jakehammond is offline
Registered User
Location: Columbus
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2006 X3
Hey guys...I did this job last night. 2006 X3 starter, accessed from underneath. Took me from 8pm-1am, although I probably only spent half the time actually working on the car (kids, wife, TV, beers, etc.) I would say 2-3 hours for somebody who is focused, which includes PLENTY of time to figure out what the hell you're doing and re-read this post over and over.

I was all set to follow the advice of jwmarc and skeletor (above), so I had prepared by buying a socket extension. HOWEVER, turns out I happened to have a set of Craftsman Metric Offset Ratchets on hand, which include a 10mm spline head that fits perfectly over the two main Torx bolts holding on the starter. The offset nature of the wrenches are perfect for reaching up and around the transmission (1st bolt is easy, right in front of you from under the driver side, but getting the 2nd bolt is really like hugging a bear and feeling for the bolt head blind.) I found this was way easier than the prospect of fishing an extension along the drive shaft and having a buddy guide it, etc. I also wasn't really keen on removing the intake and coming at it from above.

So, my steps were:

1. Disconnect Battery (put a piece of cardboard or carpet in the back hatch to keep it from closing -- the trunk won't open when the battery is off and you'll have to climb through the backseat if you forget)

2. Jack up driver side front, secure with jack stand in designated spot under driver-side door and then move floor jack out of the way (I like to put the floor jack somewhere else, almost fully raised and barely touching the body of the car as a 'catch' if something were to happen to the jack stand). Block tires.

3. Get your flashlight, cardboard/creeper, and your 4 wrenches ready: 8mm, 10mm, and 13 mm combination wrench. 10mm offset ratchet (https://amzn.com/B007KHF6I2)

4. Get under car from front (inside of front tire -- if you've placed your jack stand properly, it will block you from rolling under the driver side door). Your feet will stick out under the hood.

5. Inspect with flashlight and begin by loosening torx bolt closest to you with the 10mm ratcheting offset wrench (it threads back to front from the transmission side). Make sure you're loosening, not tightening, as this bolt will be backward from your position. You'll loosen buy pulling down on the wrench.)

6. Once that first bolt is sufficiently loose, roll closer to the middle of the car and feel up and around the back of the transmission, locating the second torx bolt, which is completely 'hidden' from view. Take a look at your new starter if you need a reference for where it is in relation to the first bolt. Completely remove this bolt with the same 10mm offset wrench you used for the first.

NOTE: there is what looks/feels like a third bolt hole on the 'top' of the starter, but this only seats a permanent metal dowel attached to the transmission and is not threaded.

7. Congrats! The hard part is over, seriously. If you have that 2nd bolt out, you're winning at life. Now, BEFORE completely removing the first bolt and knocking the starter free, use the 10mm combination wrench to remove the electrical connection closest to you (medium white wire) and the 13mm wrench to remove the large electrical connection that has the red wires. Be super careful not to drop these nuts and lockwashers, as they'll be a pain to find if you do. There is one more connection on the backside, but you'll remove that last, after you dislodge the starter itself. You're doing this part now, while the starter is still in place, so as to give you the counter leverage you need to loosen the nuts. Again, don't be an idiot by trying to turn the wrong way. The torx bolts you did before this step, because the bolt heads point away from you, will get your head twisted. Not saying that I would EVER be stupid enough to make this mistake and get frustrated...just saying that if you're tired and had a beer or two, that it could happen

8. Finish removing first bolt and set aside. At this point, your starter is only held in place by its own teeth and the small metal dowel at the top. Mine was slightly corroded in place, so I took 2-3 ft long, skinny piece of wood and used a mallet to it like a chisel to unseat -- angling the wood mostly from back, toward the front of the car.

9. Once starter is free, work around, down and toward you so the electrical connections are in your face (remember, you're under the car and this is all taking place about 12" above your head). You should now be able to see the tiny 8mm nut holding the final electrical connection. Use your last combo wrench to remove, carefully keeping the nut (in case you drop the new nuts during the install and need extra). Also make note that this white wire is skinnier than the first you removed and you'll want to put this connection back on first when installing.

10. Wiggle toward your head and celebrate! You've just removed the starter without removing or unscrewing any other part on the car (and they said it couldn't be done!!!)

Installation is reverse, with hardest part being the leverage to seat the new starter into the likely corroded metal dowel pin. Lube up or hit with a wire brush if necessary.

You Need
New/Remanufactured Starter
8mm - Combination Wrench
10mm - Combination Wrench
13mm - Combination Wrench
10mm - Ratcheting Offset Wrench (this, instead of the torx sockets and extensions mentioned above will allow you to do this job solo) https://amzn.com/B007KHF6I2


That's it! Good luck!

Jake
Columbus, OH
1997 318ti
2006 X3

(ps. BTW...my problem actually turned out not to be the starter. I took the old one to Autozone and it tested good, so I actually did this job all over again a second time to reinstall old starter and return the one I bought. Foolish perhaps on my 187K mi X3, but I wanted my $130 bucks back -- took me about 60 minutes start to finish the second time through. Ended up needing a $70 ignition switch instead, which is a much easier, 15 minute under steering wheel swap. If you're unsure what's wrong, and you know the battery and alternator are good, maybe try the switch before jacking up the car.)

Last edited by jakehammond; 09-17-2016 at 04:01 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-17-2016, 11:22 PM
greenboy1122 greenboy1122 is offline
Registered User
Location: USA
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2007 X3
Thanks for the post!

Hi Jake,

First off, thank you so much for the detailed instructions! I'm planning to replace my 2007 X3 starter in the next couple weeks. I got couple questions for you:

1. Do you know if your instructions will apply to 2007 X3 as well? I would think so, but just want to make sure.
2. Couple posts above mentioned that 36" extension is needed to remove the second bolt. It seems that you only used 10mm Offset Ratchet to loose and remove the second bolt. I'm just wondering how did you reach it without the extension.

Thanks in advance!


Quote:
Originally Posted by jakehammond View Post
Hey guys...I did this job last night. 2006 X3 starter, accessed from underneath. Took me from 8pm-1am, although I probably only spent half the time actually working on the car (kids, wife, TV, beers, etc.) I would say 2-3 hours for somebody who is focused, which includes PLENTY of time to figure out what the hell you're doing and re-read this post over and over.

I was all set to follow the advice of jwmarc and skeletor (above), so I had prepared by buying a socket extension. HOWEVER, turns out I happened to have a set of Craftsman Metric Offset Ratchets on hand, which include a 10mm spline head that fits perfectly over the two main Torx bolts holding on the starter. The offset nature of the wrenches are perfect for reaching up and around the transmission (1st bolt is easy, right in front of you from under the driver side, but getting the 2nd bolt is really like hugging a bear and feeling for the bolt head blind.) I found this was way easier than the prospect of fishing an extension along the drive shaft and having a buddy guide it, etc. I also wasn't really keen on removing the intake and coming at it from above.

So, my steps were:

1. Disconnect Battery (put a piece of cardboard or carpet in the back hatch to keep it from closing -- the trunk won't open when the battery is off and you'll have to climb through the backseat if you forget)

2. Jack up driver side front, secure with jack stand in designated spot under driver-side door and then move floor jack out of the way (I like to put the floor jack somewhere else, almost fully raised and barely touching the body of the car as a 'catch' if something were to happen to the jack stand). Block tires.

3. Get your flashlight, cardboard/creeper, and your 4 wrenches ready: 8mm, 10mm, and 13 mm combination wrench. 10mm offset ratchet (https://amzn.com/B007KHF6I2)

4. Get under car from front (inside of front tire -- if you've placed your jack stand properly, it will block you from rolling under the driver side door). Your feet will stick out under the hood.

5. Inspect with flashlight and begin by loosening torx bolt closest to you with the 10mm ratcheting offset wrench (it threads back to front from the transmission side). Make sure you're loosening, not tightening, as this bolt will be backward from your position. You'll loosen buy pulling down on the wrench.)

6. Once that first bolt is sufficiently loose, roll closer to the middle of the car and feel up and around the back of the transmission, locating the second torx bolt, which is completely 'hidden' from view. Take a look at your new starter if you need a reference for where it is in relation to the first bolt. Completely remove this bolt with the same 10mm offset wrench you used for the first.

NOTE: there is what looks/feels like a third bolt hole on the 'top' of the starter, but this only seats a permanent metal dowel attached to the transmission and is not threaded.

7. Congrats! The hard part is over, seriously. If you have that 2nd bolt out, you're winning at life. Now, BEFORE completely removing the first bolt and knocking the starter free, use the 10mm combination wrench to remove the electrical connection closest to you (medium white wire) and the 13mm wrench to remove the large electrical connection that has the red wires. Be super careful not to drop these nuts and lockwashers, as they'll be a pain to find if you do. There is one more connection on the backside, but you'll remove that last, after you dislodge the starter itself. You're doing this part now, while the starter is still in place, so as to give you the counter leverage you need to loosen the nuts. Again, don't be an idiot by trying to turn the wrong way. The torx bolts you did before this step, because the bolt heads point away from you, will get your head twisted. Not saying that I would EVER be stupid enough to make this mistake and get frustrated...just saying that if you're tired and had a beer or two, that it could happen

8. Finish removing first bolt and set aside. At this point, your starter is only held in place by its own teeth and the small metal dowel at the top. Mine was slightly corroded in place, so I took 2-3 ft long, skinny piece of wood and used a mallet to it like a chisel to unseat -- angling the wood mostly from back, toward the front of the car.

9. Once starter is free, work around, down and toward you so the electrical connections are in your face (remember, you're under the car and this is all taking place about 12" above your head). You should now be able to see the tiny 8mm nut holding the final electrical connection. Use your last combo wrench to remove, carefully keeping the nut (in case you drop the new nuts during the install and need extra). Also make note that this white wire is skinnier than the first you removed and you'll want to put this connection back on first when installing.

10. Wiggle toward your head and celebrate! You've just removed the starter without removing or unscrewing any other part on the car (and they said it couldn't be done!!!)

Installation is reverse, with hardest part being the leverage to seat the new starter into the likely corroded metal dowel pin. Lube up or hit with a wire brush if necessary.

You Need
New/Remanufactured Starter
8mm - Combination Wrench
10mm - Combination Wrench
13mm - Combination Wrench
10mm - Ratcheting Offset Wrench (this, instead of the torx sockets and extensions mentioned above will allow you to do this job solo) https://amzn.com/B007KHF6I2


That's it! Good luck!

Jake
Columbus, OH
1997 318ti
2006 X3

(ps. BTW...my problem actually turned out not to be the starter. I took the old one to Autozone and it tested good, so I actually did this job all over again a second time to reinstall old starter and return the one I bought. Foolish perhaps on my 187K mi X3, but I wanted my $130 bucks back -- took me about 60 minutes start to finish the second time through. Ended up needing a $70 ignition switch instead, which is a much easier, 15 minute under steering wheel swap. If you're unsure what's wrong, and you know the battery and alternator are good, maybe try the switch before jacking up the car.)
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-18-2016, 04:43 AM
abscate abscate is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 480
Mein Auto: 2006 BMW X3... VOLVO... V
Green boy..I believe ( please confirm) that the 2007 is the N52 engine and that starter removal has to be done from up top , after removing the intake manifold, see posts above
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-18-2016, 05:39 PM
jakehammond jakehammond is offline
Registered User
Location: Columbus
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2006 X3
@greenboy1122 - Abscate is correct, the 2007 has a different motor (N52) and, while in roughly the same place, it's a different starter and bolt orientation. You'd have to climb under and see if you can even see it. My instructions would not apply.

Here's a photo from another forum post that shows (I think) the N52 starter for your 2007.



Looks like more of a PITA, but take at least a little comfort in knowing you've enjoyed an extra 40 horse all these years!
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 09-18-2016, 10:47 PM
greenboy1122 greenboy1122 is offline
Registered User
Location: USA
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2007 X3
Thanks!

Thank you so much for pointing it out! I really appreciate it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abscate View Post
Green boy..I believe ( please confirm) that the 2007 is the N52 engine and that starter removal has to be done from up top , after removing the intake manifold, see posts above
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-18-2016, 10:51 PM
greenboy1122 greenboy1122 is offline
Registered User
Location: USA
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 14
Mein Auto: 2007 X3
Thanks a million, Jake! Anyway, I love your post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jakehammond View Post
@greenboy1122 - Abscate is correct, the 2007 has a different motor (N52) and, while in roughly the same place, it's a different starter and bolt orientation. You'd have to climb under and see if you can even see it. My instructions would not apply.

Looks like more of a PITA, but take at least a little comfort in knowing you've enjoyed an extra 40 horse all these years!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 10-06-2016, 10:19 PM
jd_in_ky jd_in_ky is offline
Registered User
Location: Kentucky
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2004 X3
Spot on!

Thanks a million for the great advice guys. The 36 inches worth of wobble extensions are DEFINITELY the way to go. I had to spend about $25 for the extensions and the spline sockets at Harbor Freight, but given the time and money this saved me I'd say it was well worth it! I did the job today in 2 hours and would have never thought to do it that way. That is the hardest starter I have ever had to replace, but the "contraption" method works very well. A couple of things I learned today:

1. I got three 1/4" wobble extensions in my kit from HF, along with some 3/8" and 1/2" extensions. Don't use the 1//4", as I snapped one of them clean in half breaking the torx bolt free. Stick to the larger diameter extensions. Interestingly enough, HF now guarantees their hand tools for life, so they just gave me another 9-piece kit for the broken piece. I now own more socket extensions than anyone in the state.

2. Use some electrical tape to secure the socket to the end of your extensions. The first time I put it back there, the floorboard insulation pulled the socket off and it got lodged on top of the transmission in a spot too tight for my big paws. Took me about 20 minutes, a strong magnet, and 2 Miller Lites to retrieve it.

3. I also removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case and lowered it to the ground. it gave me a lot more room on top of the tranny.

I figured I saved myself about $800 today, so I had me another couple of Miller Lites.

Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Selektor View Post
Thanks to all who have posted on this topic before. It was a tremendous help and not sure if I could have done it without you!!

To confirm: this job is a complete pain in the butt.

However, I was able to tackle this job in one afternoon.

At first I thought is was going to be impossible to remove (and then replace) the E14 bolt at the top of the transmission.
I had to take a few breaks and come back to it. I may have learned to contort my body and bend my bones, but I was able to do it without an assistant.

Take a look at the extension setup that I used to get to that bolt on top!

I removed the transmission support and lower the tranny a couple of inches. This is the spot where I fed the long extension up to reach the top bolt - yes, all that distance. Unbelievable.

Once that bolt was removed, I knew it was all downhill from there, even though each and every step along the way seemed to be incredibly difficult.

It didn't help that my replacement starter was about 2 inches longer that the original, but I eventually got it in there and bolted it back in. Started right up!

As tough as this job is, it is doable. And well worth saving a lot of money!
All in, I was about $200 in comparison to the $800-$1000 at the dealership. Well worth the time and aggravation.
In the end, I have a big sense of accomplishment.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 10-07-2016, 02:06 PM
jlex jlex is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NW Pennsylvania
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 591
Mein Auto: 2005 X3.0i
You poor pilgrims.... Luckily, I had read about what a nightmare replacing the starter on my '05 would be, so I replaced the perfectly good (but 100,000 mile old) starter when I pulled my intake manifold to repair a gasket leak (lean codes). If I had normal hex head replacement bolts at the time, I would have thrown away those Torx bolts to make removal easier next time. While I was in there, I also replaced the entire CCV system. Maybe I'm good for another 100,000 miles...
Reply With Quote
Reply

See More Related BMW Stories

Tags
starter motor replacement, x3


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > X Series > X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms