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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-29-2015, 11:20 PM
BavarianE31 BavarianE31 is offline
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Mein Auto: '03 BMW 530i Sport Auto
Intake Manifold + Extra Things Completed - Update to my many threads

Completed my first in-depth engine tear down ever. This is the first car I have owned (almost 1.5 years since I departed from my parent's beloved '89 Ford Tempo) and I think I have maintained it pretty well so far (unlike the previous 2 owners).



I've looked to this (and the rival) forum for all of my guidance and knowledge and it's safe to say that I wouldn't be driving and owning this car if it were not for the forums and support that you all have given me. I still have to create an "Intro" Thread! But for those that occasionally frequent the forums, I'm probably known as the "Birch Anthracite" guy or the guy with the rough idle lol.

I'm pleased to say that I have finally fixed my rough idle (wasn't truly rough; my girlfriend never noticed the slight vibration, but my OCD definitely did)! I decided that at 105K miles, it was time for a complete gasket and vacuum line overhaul since I suspected an Intake Manifold Gasket (IM gasket) leak.

My goal of my weekend was to complete an IM job along with everything preventative that I could replace since I did not want to do this job again. I have created this thread with this goal in mind to help others in a similar situation since I could not find a definitive and comprehensive answer to what to replace while I was "in there" and to add to the every growing BMW knowledge that we all share.

So, for those thinking about taking off the intake manifold, below is a list of things that are normally difficult/impossible, but can now be easily replaced:

1. INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS
2. Hard cooling hoses (inlet and outlet lines)
3. Starter (I did not know this)
4. CCV + o-rings on each tube connector (wish I knew about the orings)
5. Knock sensor
6. Second Air Pump (SAP) vacuum lines

Things are are removed during the process that could be replaced:
1. Fuel Injectors (o-rings, injectors themselves)
2. Air Distribution (this is the thin stick-like 6 prong plastic piece above the manifold) O-rings
3. All intake boots (inspect carefully upon removal)
4. Idle Control Valve (ICV) - clean it!
5. Throttle Body + gasket
6. Brake Booster and MAF vacuum lines
7. DISA o-ring (have to scrape out old OEM mold and replace with #139).

As far as tools go, you don't need anything special on what other DIYs tell you besides:
19mm socket - this is usually too big for standard toolkits
Torque wrench (or listen to your gut!)
Air compressor with air gun (don't think you can get away with this).

Things you will wish you had:
1. All orings/gaskets (DISA, throttle body, IM gaskets, CCV orings, fuel injectors, air distribution, fuel tank purge drain)
2. Crush washers! (Vanos oil line x2, engine block coolant drain plug washer x1)
3. Throttle body cleaner (also used with ICV)
4. Degreaser/brake cleaner
5. Ramps for draining the engine block of coolant if replacing coolant lines.

To make the job easier, I highly suggest labeling things as you take them off (masking tape + pen). I have an "A,B,C" system. For example, if I take off the MAF connector, I label the MAF lines as "MAF - C" and label the actual MAF as "MAF". Next, I take off the intake boot, I'll label that as "Intake Boot - D". This way you learn everything about the car and once you are finished, you work backwards down the alphabet so you'll never forget to plug anything back in or accidentally skip as step and end up redoing the whole job again (unless you don'w know your alphabet, then a numbering system would suffice instead).

Ziplock Bags! Many of them! I placed all of my bolts in labeled ziplock bags. For example, 4 bolts when into a ziplock bag labeled as "Air Distri - 10mm). Simple. Never misplace a bolt and keep all bags in one place so you cannot forget to replace it.

Take pics! For rerouting purposes. Trust me, you won't know which line goes under what and which one snakes through this and that or which one uses that one clip....

What I suggest/wished I knew:

Taking the manifold off isn't complicated. It is time consuming though. You have to make sure things are CLEAN! "Clean-Danger-Zone" steps include taking out the fuel injectors (one grain of sand = $200) and taking off the manifold (one rock = bent valve/new engine).

After 100k miles, I'd highly suggest replacing all vacuum lines and o-rings/gaskets and would recommend getting o-rings that contact oil made of Viton from theoringstore. And I mean ALL orings as listed. I failed to replace the OEM o-rings to and from the CCV but wished I would've known ahead of time that it could've been done. Most o-rings only cost a buck or two and BMW chose rings that are cheap but incompatible with oil (Buta-N).

I chose to replace the OEM coolant hard line hose o-rings with OEM (there are 4 and they come with the hoses; so no need to make the same mistake I did and buy them separately - ButaN works well-ish with water) and order new OEM fuel injector o-rings (12 in total in 2 differing sizes) since they are custom diameters and no one else will have them.

When most people talk about vacuum lines hardening and breaking apart behind the manifold, I believe they are referring to the SAP lines. These are cheap and the new OEM lines are of better quality (new part number since our cars came out) and are braided for durability. Notice the white cracking lines.





When replacing the hard coolant hoses, you'll have to drain the engine block AND the radiator (at least this is what the DIYs state and I followed. Maybe try disconnecting the hard lines and drain the coolant from the hoses. This way you don't have to mess with the drain bolt or lift up the car. Plus you have a much better chance of catching all of the coolant. Draining the radiator and engine still left coolant in one of the hoses anyways...). Most people didn't mention the engine block plug which is a pain to get to (about 1/2 an engine length forward of the oil drain plug and right under the #2 cylinder exhaust manifold; only accessible from below) and requires a washer (I had to reuse mine). Also, you'll have to temporarily remove a VANOS oil banjo bolt (fancy term for a hollow bolt) to get access to the hard lines and that takes 2 crush washers (I had to reuse those as well).

The coolant hoses break in the head! So be diligent in getting all of the pieces out.





I had to use a mini dremel to get the stuck piece out.

DIFFICULTIES I had:
1. Fuel Injector removal takes a lot of time since you have to be clean. ALL of the DIYs I read talk about removing TWO fuel line connectors (the push-pull type) and they all say that the one behind the manifold is a B&*ch to do. Well, don't remove that one. I didn't. Just disconnect the one exposed end and snake the rest through in one piece:

Remove this one only (super-duper easy access!):





SIMPLE! And remember to keep all exposed fuel lines clean. Wrap them up immediately or pay later....

2. The air distribution rail can be safely removed with a common hammer:



But be sure to protect the fuel rail with something:


3. The brake booster hoses (the big hose that comes out from the manifold) is reinforced with metal wire. You can still cut and remove it and keep the "Y" connector to place in a new hose though. But don't even attempt to remove it in once piece from that connector (it's impossible).

4. Hard coolant lines suck big time. Be prepared to spend at least an hr removing the debris inside the head. A dremel is probably a must. Be careful not to scar the surface of the engine.

5. A funnel taped to a plastic bag can catch 70-80% of the coolant lost from the engine block, but expect a thorough soaking from the radiator when you pull that petcock off (turn that blue knob 90 degrees and then PULL!). Protect your eyes and close your mouth...

6. There's not really a DIY specifically for the E39. Most ones use the E46. It's basically the same. You'll have to remove both cabin filters and their housing and I suggest just removing the whole air intake assembly in one piece (air intake + MAF + intake boot) - the whole thing. It's easiest that way. Loose one clamp and remove one bolt and viola - lotsa space immediately!

7. My positive jump nut was completely seized to the cable and bolt that it was on. I almost sheared my positive cable off since the torque was so great (19mm bolt too). The positive terminal nut should rotate freely from the bolt. If not; STOP! I had to WD40 the area and let it soak overnight. I would do this immediately and complete other tasks before taking it off as the final step in preparing to remove the IM. A true penetrating oil would work better.

This job took me 3 full days. I spent a lot of time keeping everything clean and using my puny 2.5 gal air compressor after every other step. Use the compressor religiously before the IM removal of course. Fuel injectors and hard lines took the longest. I gingerly removed the intake manifold, fuel injectors and air distribution (torque and pry in tiny and equal amounts).

DIYs I used:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1060030
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=901967
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=900576
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

One thing to note is that I was confused that I still had a line attached to the rear of the manifold when I followed all of the above DIYs to a T (or so I thought). Feeling with my hand, I could not find a disconnect and thought it was a hard wire. It was the SAP line. You can remove it just by pulling. Took me awhile to figure this out! You'll have to remove the valve cover to get asscess to the other end of the SAP line and pop out the O2 sensors on that side for clearance (very easy).

Anyways, the car purrs like a kitten and throttle response is awesome. I feel like I'm driving a new car (my gf can't feel the difference ). I hope that someone benefits from this since I always see just a few DIYs and rarely see any updates that follow. People help other out and then.... No update?! Not happening with this fella! Thanks for all of the help! Thanks for reading!

Torque specs:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1065428

Going above and beyond in terms of orings and clamps? [Thread updated with post from below]

Here's what I bought aftermarket:
1 ea. 2.4mm x 41.6mm Viton 75 Metric O-ring (Ideally you'd want 2.5mmx42mm) for PS cap
6 ea. 3mm X 7 mm V75 Viton O-ring Black for air distribution panel
1 ea. 139 V75 Viton® Fluorocarbon Black O-rings for DISA (once you cleaned off the OEM gasket.

OEM orings:
Fuel Injectors
6each 7.52mm X 3.52mm part number: 13641437487
6each 9.2mm X 2.8mm part number: 13641437486
Hard coolant lines
(include orings good for water so don't buy!) 20mm x 3mm 4ea for reference

Hose Clamps
I bought "Gemi" clamps (some of the best quality) to replace the stupid OEM pinch clamps. The best sizes to get for the brake booster hoses (3 clamps) and PS hoses (3 clamps) are 12-22mm ones. The 12-20mm were a little small and the 16-27mm were a little too big.

Order them here: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Merce...699/12/11573/0
^^^ Cheapest and very fast shipping! There may be other clamps (I ended up guying $40 worth to build my collection), but those are the few off the top of my head.

Last edited by BavarianE31; 06-30-2015 at 10:29 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-30-2015, 04:22 AM
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gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Mein Auto: 2006-530xi; 1998-528i
Great write up and synopsis of information. Thanks.
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  #3  
Old 06-30-2015, 05:03 AM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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Location: KY
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 120
Mein Auto: BMW 528i
Nice write up. Lots of good pics. Well done. Always helps when people post pics and updates.
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  #4  
Old 06-30-2015, 05:31 AM
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gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
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Location: Ottawa, Canada
 
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Posts: 485
Mein Auto: 2006-530xi; 1998-528i
What is this "Theoringstore" you mention? Is it a physical or online store. I do a google search but I'm unable to bring up the web-site when I click on the LLC link.
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  #5  
Old 06-30-2015, 05:47 AM
BavarianE31 BavarianE31 is offline
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Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 186
Mein Auto: '03 BMW 530i Sport Auto
http://www.theoringstore.com/

It should be that LLC link. Maybe their webiste only runs on chrome? I was able to bring it up. Out of all of the websites I have tried, I found that they were the cheapest and they ship really fast.
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  #6  
Old 06-30-2015, 06:12 AM
boostmaster boostmaster is offline
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OP: Do you have a comprehensive list of all the o-rings that one should order?
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  #7  
Old 06-30-2015, 06:18 AM
Max_VQ Max_VQ is offline
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Mein Auto: E39 with a sweet six
Very nice! Thanks for sharing
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  #8  
Old 06-30-2015, 11:47 AM
SeanPhang SeanPhang is offline
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Mein Auto: 02' 530iA@153k
nice write-up!

I like how the hammer from China is prominently featured LOL
__________________
06/10: rear shocks
08/11: cooling overhaul, O2 sensors
09/11: auto transmission drain & refill
09/12: alternator, VANOS seals, differential oil change
04/13: 2nd auto transmission drain & refill, changed fuel filter
12/13: OFH gasket
05/14: Aux. fan
09/14: CCV
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  #9  
Old 06-30-2015, 12:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,236
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by BavarianE31 View Post
Things you will wish you had:
1. All orings/gaskets (DISA, throttle body, IM gaskets, CCV orings, fuel injectors, air distribution, fuel tank purge drain)
2. Crush washers! (Vanos oil line x2, engine block coolant drain plug washer x1)
3. Throttle body cleaner (also used with ICV)
4. Degreaser/brake cleaner
5. Ramps for draining the engine block of coolant if replacing coolant lines.
Please take a look at this list, and let me know what I need to add so that the next person stands on your shoulders when it comes to ordering parts ahead of time...
- Glovebox printouts for emergency use (1) and how to save $ money to qualify for free shipping on UPS/DHL/USPS/FedEx by stocking O-rings & gaskets & bulbs & vacuum hoses & fuses & wiper blade inserts & belts & bearings & oil filters & cabin air filters & engine air filters & fluids in your garage whenever ordering from the recommended parts suppliers.
See also:
- Typical tandem DIY repair jobs combined while you're already there (1) & recommended parts kits for overhauling cooling, drive belts, CCV/ICV, VANOS, OFH, PSP (1) & what other tandem parts to buy while you're there (1) & what parts to only buy OEM (1)
Caption: This is one of my orders where I had to jack up the price to get free shipping...
__________________
Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 06-30-2015 at 12:42 PM.
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  #10  
Old 06-30-2015, 10:16 PM
BavarianE31 BavarianE31 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 186
Mein Auto: '03 BMW 530i Sport Auto
Quote:
Originally Posted by boostmaster View Post
OP: Do you have a comprehensive list of all the o-rings that one should order?
Unfortunately not for the CCV hoses. You can't even look up them up on realoem. Someone would have to measure them. I feel like these need to be replaced if you are not going to replace the CCV.

Here's what I bought aftermarket:
1 ea. 2.4mm x 41.6mm Viton 75 Metric O-ring (Ideally you'd want 2.5mmx42mm) for PS cap
6 ea. 3mm X 7 mm V75 Viton O-ring Black for air distribution panel
1 ea. 139 V75 Viton® Fluorocarbon Black O-rings for DISA (once you cleaned off the OEM gasket.

OEM orings:
Fuel Injectors
6each 7.52mm X 3.52mm part number: 13641437487
6each 9.2mm X 2.8mm part number: 13641437486
Hard coolant lines
(include orings good for water so don't buy!) 20mm x 3mm 4ea for reference

I bought "Gemi" clamps (some of the best quality) to replace the stupid OEM pinch clamps. The best sizes to get for the brake booster hoses (3 clamps) and PS hoses (3 clamps) are 12-22mm ones. The 12-20 were a little small and the 16-27mm were a little too big.

Order them here: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Merce...699/12/11573/0
^^^ Cheapest and very fast shipping! There may be other clamps (I ended up guying $40 worth to build my collection), but those are the few off the top of my head.

Last edited by BavarianE31; 06-30-2015 at 10:26 PM.
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  #11  
Old 06-30-2015, 10:30 PM
BavarianE31 BavarianE31 is offline
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Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 186
Mein Auto: '03 BMW 530i Sport Auto
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanPhang View Post
nice write-up!

I like how the hammer from China is prominently featured LOL
Wish I was rich enough to buy a Craftsman set... Or even rich enough to pay a mechanic for my troubles!
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