Second ED off and running... after a brief interruption

your video make me scare, just watching.

Originally Posted by boothguy

I don't anticipate a fee since they blew the appointment time. Congratulations on your discerning choice of vehicle and exterior color. What color interior and trim?

I got black interior with aluminum trim. Very satisfied with both considering I had not seen them in person prior to picking up.

A couple of things that the video doesn't really convey are firstly, how steep the streets are. The spot where I followed the white mini-pickup down the street was like driving out of my bedroom window. Secondly, Karen had the camera on its widest setting, about equivalent to 25mm in a 35mm camera format, meaning those walls were really close. When we got into the unfamiliar part of town, I started the NAV for directional help, and followed the Uscita Citta (city exit) signs when the NAV wanted me to turn through a solid stone wall. Quite an experience.

Originally Posted by boothguy

A couple of things that the video doesn't really convey are firstly, how steep the streets are. The spot where I followed the white mini-pickup down the street was like driving out of my bedroom window. Secondly, Karen had the camera on its widest setting, about equivalent to 25mm in a 35mm camera format, meaning those walls were really close. When we got into the unfamiliar part of town, I started the NAV for directional help, and followed the Uscita Citta (city exit) signs when the NAV wanted me to turn through a solid stone wall. Quite an experience.

yep, I saw that, even comment to my wife - the are no left, the are no left what..@#$..
And your wife comment -we almost hit mirror of parked car. brrrrrr

We said goodbye to our friends at the Villa Marsili and left Cortona heading north through Arezzo and onto the A-1 Autostrada, past Florence and Bologna, stopping one night in Sirmione: a tiny town at the end of a long skinny neck of land that juts a couple of miles out into the waters at the southern end of Lake Garda, Italy's largest lake.

We stayed here three years ago and this time picked a little place in the old town, about a block from Scaliger castle with its Ghibbeline battlements on top. This is an unusual port fortification dating from the 13th century. We had time for a nice dinner at an outdoor place while throngs of tourists, mostly Dutch and German in this part of Italy, strolled by. A stroll out to the very tip of the peninsula revealed a 2,000 year old Roman villa ruin, just maybe once the home of the poet Catullus, who wrote about this place two millennia ago, proving that people are drawn to nice places forever.

Our turn-in date for the car in Munich was looming, so next day, we headed for the Alps, stopping for lunch with a favorite client in Bolzano. Crossing the mountains this time was a lot less dramatic than the Stelvio and Innsbruck was soon in the mirrors.

There's only a short stretch of unrestricted Autobahn between the Austrian border and the slow traffic of Munich, meaning it was my last chance to let the M3 stretch its legs. Unfortunately, a guy in a Mercedes wagon was stuck in the fast lane like a tick on a hound, and wouldn't move over to let me past, no matter what I or a local driver in another Mercedes wagon did. I saw a solid 120 mph, but had been hoping for considerably more.

It being our last afternoon, we decided to spend a little time in the heart of old Munich, so turned off the guidance and just followed the map to the middle of town. This is the historic Marienplatz, and we got to watch the antique mechanical marvel of the clock tower strike five with its jousting knights on horseback and dancing burghers - all mechanical animations. Way too many people for our liking, though, so two hours here was plenty. We spent our last evening in a nice hotel not far from the airport where the barman was Italian and was delighted to have a chance to speak some to us strangers. It was a nice last touch of Italy.

Everything got re-packed in our two rollaboard bags and we sweated out a missed appointment next morning at LogInOut at the airport. When the apologetic staff finally did show up, the turn-in process took about seven minutes instead of the normal thirty, and the easy walk to the terminal got us to the BA lounge in plenty of time to make the flight.

We both managed a few hours of sleep on the return direct flight from London to San Diego where we were met by our nine-year–old niece, who was every bit as glad to see us as we were to see her.

The BMW is consigned on a ship sailing July 2 from Bemerhaven, that's due in Port Hueneme on July 27, meaning I may get it back in time for my annual blast up Pacific Coast Highway to Monterey for the big classic car weekend in mid-August. That would be a really nice cap to a great trip.

This whole European Delivery thing is pretty addictive, as the manufacturers meant it to be. I'm already hoping the economy improves enough to do another one sooner than three years from now – Karen's Volvo S80T6 could stand replacement…....

Today's pictures:
Not a picture on the wall, but rather, the view out the window in Sirmione, looking toward the castle.

Purple bougainvillea have taken over this shop wall in Sirmione.

Through the looking, err, water glass at dinner in Sirmione.

Visiting American service families needed a photog for an action portrait near the Roman ruin.

Client Claudia joined us for lunch in Bolzano.

The back-breaking work of harvesting grapes on these steep slopes in Italy's mountainous Alto-Adige make the wine even more special.

The gothic architecture of Munich's Marienplatz was nice to see - once.

Was this really three weeks ago?

The papers and one key was all we had to leave with the shipping agent to get the car home. A total of 2,052 miles, a lot of dirt and dead bugs, but otherwise, not a mark on the car.

What a grat post!
Thank you!!!

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading your ED posts and living vicariously thru both of your EDs. I have decided that I like your style of travel. Every day seems to end with a nice bottle of wine. Glad you didn't have an encore performance of the transmission gremlin.

July 26th can't come soon enough!

Welcome back home. Maureen and I enjoyed meeting you and Karen in the most appropriate venue and taking delivery at the same time. I really enjoyed reading about your travels. Maureen said we should do Tuscany again, and maybe on next ED.

Great photo's great reports.

Thanks to everyone for the kind words. My goal was really to take you all along on this trip, and if I at least gave those here who are considering an ED Adventure of their own a glimpse of what a driving trip in Europe can be like; and gave the veterans here a nostalgic smile because I made them recall some pleasurable aspect of their own trip, then I did what I set out to do.

This was definitely a more wine-centric trip than my previous ones have been, but that's the beauty of traveling in this wonderful part of the world: you can build your itinerary around whatever interests you because there's so much for every interest.

Originally Posted by boothguy

Thanks to everyone for the kind words. My goal was really to take you all along on this trip, and if I at least gave those here who are considering an ED Adventure of their own a glimpse of what a driving trip in Europe can be like; and gave the veterans here a nostalgic smile because I made them recall some pleasurable aspect of their own trip, then I did what I set out to do.

This was definitely a more wine-centric trip than my previous ones have been, but that's the beauty of traveling in this wonderful psrt of the world: you can build your itinerary around whatever interests you because there's so much for every interest.

Get on my "Top 10 reports" list for sure.

While not a narrow city street like your video, boothguy, a friend experienced something similar. On our 2002 ED, we were traveling with a large group of enthusiasts (12 of us picked up new M3's on the same morning). One of the group was in a rental BMW and he had a small incident on one of the narrow mountain passes we were on. He collected mirrors with an oncoming car! He is a very skilled driver but the road was too narrow for his rental 5 series and the oncoming vehicle. Splat!

It's always an adventure out there!

Originally Posted by boothguy

Thanks to everyone for the kind words. My goal was really to take you all along on this trip, and if I at least gave those here who are considering an ED Adventure of their own a glimpse of what a driving trip in Europe can be like; and gave the veterans here a nostalgic smile because I made them recall some pleasurable aspect of their own trip, then I did what I set out to do.

This was definitely a more wine-centric trip than my previous ones have been, but that's the beauty of traveling in this wonderful psrt of the world: you can build your itinerary around whatever interests you because there's so much for every interest.

Thanks as always for the write-up. I'm getting both the nostalgia for my first ED (and remembering your ordeal from 3 years ago, actually ) and a glimpse of the next one as we're going to Italy this time around. On that topic, any restaurant recommendations for Lake Como? We're staying in Bellagio but I don't think a nice drive with the top down to go somewhere else is out the question.

Originally Posted by jcain

Thanks as always for the write-up. I'm getting both the nostalgia for my first ED (and remembering your ordeal from 3 years ago, actually ) and a glimpse of the next one as we're going to Italy this time around. On that topic, any restaurant recommendations for Lake Como? We're staying in Bellagio but I don't think a nice drive with the top down to go somewhere else is out the question.

Now this, I can answer!

Ristorante Barchetta. It's on one of the "stepped" pedestrian alleys. I know exactly where it is but I don't know the name of the alley. It's popular, you will walk past it if you are staying there.

Get on the ferry and check out Lenno during your stay. Albergo Plinio is a short 5 minute stroll from the dock - waterfront. Our favorite spaghetti bolognese. I also get a filled pasta with sage/butter sauce.

Varenna: Vecchia Varenna on the waterfront. For views, Eremo Gaudio. The food isn't much to crow about, but you won't mind when you see the views from there. Just drink a lot of prosecco.

I really appreciate all the nice comments. Although much of the experience driving in Italy isn't really as hairy as it looks initially, there are definitely times when you have to thread the needle.

Hmm, staying in Bellagio actually complicates things somewhat if you're thinking of going for a drive. The reason is that the roads are narrow and the distances, though not far, take a relatively long time to cover. Being way out on the peninsula, as Bellagio is, means your best bet to get to the more populated west shore of the Como leg of the lake means a couple of rides on the Traghetto or car ferry. Could be a fun experience or a costly hassle, depending on your point of view. I honestly wouldn't classify driving around the lake as a relaxing, top-down experience. It really demands your full attention and concentration, especially with tour buses on the road.

You can also do what I (and I suspect a lot of experienced visitors to the lake) did, and that's put the car in the garage and take the Vaporetto (passenger ferry) where you want to go. The towns are all pretty small and the interesting stuff tends to be within an easy walk of the ferry landings.

My favorite eating spot in Bellagio is Hotel Ristorante La Pergola, which requires a bit of a hike up and over the spine of the town and down to the little port on the opposite of the peninsula. For me, it's what Bellagio ought to be: that gorgeous location (just looking the opposite direction from the main part of town) and without those hordes of people just like you, all trying to get a table and a waiter's attention. You can pretend it's your own secret discovery and because it's so small, probably have the place mostly to yourself.

My overall favorite eating place on the lake is Pizzeria Giardino in Cernobbio, just a stone's throw from Villa d'Este. Completely unassuming from the front, it has no view at all, but serves my favorite pizza in the whole wide world: you can taste every ingredient. They also have a full menu of very nice dishes and a very fine wine list. The decor is very upscale as well, which you wouldn't expect from the name, and although always busy, service is good.

Attaching a picture of the ambience you'll enjoy at La Pergola (that's Varenna in the distance), and the food you'll enjoy at Pizzeria Giardino.

Thanks to boothguy and skywalkerbeth for the advice and the restaurant recommendations. Those places look excellent from the photos. It sounds like the way to go is park the car and walk/take the ferry. I've never been to Italy before so I guess I'll soon find out how much needle-threading is required.

sorry to hear about your top issues -- glad it was nothing more serious. over time mine has occasionally been a little touchy, requiring a sensor replacement and a hydraulic motor replacement. but 98% of the time she works great! wonderful ED trip, awesome pics! Kash

Originally Posted by kashrahman

sorry to hear about your top issues -- glad it was nothing more serious. over time mine has occasionally been a little touchy, requiring a sensor replacement and a hydraulic motor replacement. but 98% of the time she works great! wonderful ED trip, awesome pics! Kash

Yeah, I was there when it happened. He wasn't a happy camper, but the Welt went to general quarters and figured out what the problem was -- just a simple little thing out of its place.

Regarding driving around the lake (or just about anyplace in Italy for that matter), experience really helps. First time I did it, I encountered a tour bus coming the other way in a couple of the most inopportune spots, and was pretty sure the next sound I was going to be hearing was crumpling sheet metal. Worked out fine, though, probably due in large part to the experience of the other drivers. Scarcely gave it a second thought by this trip - #4.

The issue with the rectractable top on this trip was actually kind of funny at the end. But at first when the top would go into the trunk but the decklid wouldn't close, and Bernard was clearly stumped too, Karen's eyes got real big as she stammered, "...b-b-but how long is this "repair" going to take?", clearly recalling the 2 1/2 days we lost in '08, and knowing that we were once again headed for her favorite place on the whole trip: Lake Como. Bernard of course couldn't answer, but we were all relieved when the problem turned out to be the mis-placed front license plate holder, sitting in the "no-go" zone in the trunk.

Originally Posted by jcain

Thanks as always for the write-up. I'm getting both the nostalgia for my first ED (and remembering your ordeal from 3 years ago, actually ) and a glimpse of the next one as we're going to Italy this time around. On that topic, any restaurant recommendations for Lake Como? We're staying in Bellagio but I don't think a nice drive with the top down to go somewhere else is out the question.

We stayed in Varrena and took the ferry to Bellagio for the purpose of driving. Not far above town, there is a small chapel dedicated to the Madonna Del Ghisallo, the patron saint of cyclists. The climb has been used for years in both the Giro d'Italia and the Beautiful fall classic bike race called the tour of Lombardi. Over the years, professional cyclists have donated memorabilia to the chapel. So much so that they decided to open a museum with all of the gear. One of the most moving displays is the wrecked bike of Fabio Casertelii, a teammate of Lance Armstrong, who crashed and died in the Tour de France. Regardless, it is a nice, twisty, drive up to the chapel on back roads. Also, there is a great view of the lake from the courtyard of the museum... Enjoy!

PS. When we asked for directions in pidgin Italian (dové il Madonna del Ghisallo?) the answer was succinctly "alto,alto,alto!". Whenever we got to an intersection we took the direction that seemed to go up. It worked!

Boothguy,

Nice job on the report. I've been pretty absent from BFest the last couple of months because i'm just buried in work and simply haven't had time, but...

Three years ago I did ED for my 2008 550i. You, Skywalkerbeth, and many other very familiar names in this thread were also doing ED that year, so I feel a little fraternal bond with you all, even though I haven't spent much time corresponding with each of you.

My wife and I are heading back to Munich in two weeks, and we pick up her 535xi on Friday, July 15th. Spending two sure-to-be-fun weeks between Munich, Amsterdam, and the Rhine river, with lots of fun and interesting stops in between.

For anyone wondering how well an '08 E60 is holding up after 3 years and out of warranty - I've put 52,000 miles on this baby and she hasn't had any issues whatsoever. I can't even believe that such a complex piece of machinery and circuitry could be so much fun and so trouble free. It's holding up so well and has been so much fun to have that I went ahead and bought it off of lease, and got a SCREAMING deal from by BFest CA (Jim Mannheimer, Salem, OR) on what was essentially a 2:1 transaction. My wife is now a BMW convert, too, and HAD to have her own, and HAD to get it in Munich.

Huzzah!

BickUW89

Nice of you to mention that "fraternal bond" thing, which at least for me, is a very real part of this forum and therefore of my BMW ownership thus far. The Spousal Unit doesn't really get it, but I know a lot of people here do.

So if I'm understanding correctly, you're keeping your '08 550 and the new car is for your wife, who enjoyed the last experience so much, she's doing it again for her car? I'd compliment you on the nice sales job if I didn't already know how addictive the whole ED experience really is.

Looking forward to hearing and seeing more beginning in two weeks! Be advised that you're expected to top your great trip report from three years ago.

Here's to hoping the ED experience rubs off on my wife. To her cars are an A to B proposition and should be as efficient, safe, and reliable as possible. Anything else is irrelevant to her. She is ambivalent about BMWs, though she is lovingly benevolent when it comes to indulging my BMW fetish. Thank god she loves to travel as the ED is what finally sold her on it.

I'll lay odds that unless something really untoward happens on your trip, your wife will be just as hooked as mine was after our first ED trip seven years ago. Nature of the beast. And I'm speaking of ED here... not the wife.

Even with the problems encountered on our '08 trip, she was agitating for the just-completed trip to happen.

BoothGuy,

Really nice write up. I've been following you every step of the way. Enjoy the hell out of that E93 M3 -- I've been loving mine.