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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)

F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)
The sixth generation of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) was produced from 2011 - 2016 with LCI updates arriving in 2014. In the US BMW offered a hatchback 5 Series Gran Truismo (F07) and the rest of the world also go a Station Wagon/Touring version F11.

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  #1  
Old 11-29-2016, 01:01 PM
dommm dommm is offline
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Doing DIY brake job?

I will soon be doing a DIY brake job & need to know the correct size Triple Square bit to remove the parking brake actuator mounting screws & the proper sized Triple Square bit to retract the parking brake piston? I know I could likely get away with using a T30 & T45 Torx bit for the job but I would feel safer using the proper Triple Square bits. I don't want to take a chance rounding off any bolts. If anyone has a service manual & could look up the proper sizes it would be greatly appreciated!

The link below at the 3:36 mark shows the mounting bolts I need to remove & at the 4:20 mark shows the retraction of the parking brake piston. Even though he used a Torx bit for both procedures, those bolts are actually Triple Square bolts.



Thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2016, 10:19 PM
vini_079 vini_079 is offline
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Watch this video also
Might shed some light
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2016, 06:10 AM
dommm dommm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vini_079 View Post
Watch this video also
Might shed some light
Thanks for this video. Unfortunately the presenter in this video also uses a Torx bit to do both of the procedures I mentioned in my OP. I would love to find the correct size Triple Square bits to do the job.
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2016, 08:31 AM
Davidf Davidf is offline
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Most likely, a 14mm XZN (triple square) is what you want.

http://www.bmwpartsweb.com/Part-Numb..._C5F79F62.aspx
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2016, 09:27 AM
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Chuck W. Chuck W. is offline
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I just did my rear brakes. IMHO, the Torx works just fine. There was no way that you are risking rounding out the gearing. The Torx fits in well and the amount of pressure it takes to back the piston is extremely low.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2016, 10:18 AM
dommm dommm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W. View Post
I just did my rear brakes. IMHO, the Torx works just fine. There was no way that you are risking rounding out the gearing. The Torx fits in well and the amount of pressure it takes to back the piston is extremely low.
Thanks for that Chuck W. From the videos it looked like there was not much pressure needed for the piston retraction but I was a little concerned with removing the actuator mounting screws. I assume you did not have any issues removing them? Thanks
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2016, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dommm View Post
Thanks for that Chuck W. From the videos it looked like there was not much pressure needed for the piston retraction but I was a little concerned with removing the actuator mounting screws. I assume you did not have any issues removing them? Thanks
You're welcome. The screws removal was easy too.
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2016, 12:36 PM
dommm dommm is offline
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Originally Posted by Chuck W. View Post
You're welcome. The screws removal was easy too.
Good to know. I will give up on my quest of finding the proper Triple Square bit & go with the Torx. Just to confirm, do you remember what size Torx bits you used? The one video I watched says the removal of the actuator mount needs a T30 & the piston retraction needs a T45 & while I'm asking questions lol, did you use a torque wrench to tighten the screws/bolts? Thanks
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2016, 07:14 PM
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I can't remember the exact size I used. It'll be obvious once you get in there. And I'll bow my head in shame... I just wing it as far as tightening down the nuts and bolts.
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  #10  
Old 11-30-2016, 07:16 PM
vini_079 vini_079 is offline
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The guy in the 2nd video was using a 45 Torx
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  #11  
Old 11-30-2016, 07:18 PM
dommm dommm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W. View Post
I can't remember the exact size I used. It'll be obvious once you get in there. And I'll bow my head in shame... I just wing it as far as tightening down the nuts and bolts.
LOL, thanks again.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2016, 07:49 AM
Davidf Davidf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W. View Post
I can't remember the exact size I used. It'll be obvious once you get in there. And I'll bow my head in shame... I just wing it as far as tightening down the nuts and bolts.
No shame in that, I do the same after many years or "wrenching" and knowing by feel what an appropriate amount of torque should be placed on any given bolt size. But, when it comes to critical internal engine components (or similar), I always use a torque wrench.
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2016, 07:53 AM
dommm dommm is offline
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Originally Posted by Davidf View Post
No shame in that, I do the same after many years or "wrenching" and knowing by feel what an appropriate amount of torque should be placed on any given bolt size. But, when it comes to critical internal engine components (or similar), I always use a torque wrench.
Would you have any idea what the torque number is for lug nuts or where I could get the number? thanks
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2016, 02:04 PM
dommm dommm is offline
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OK, so all the parts are on order & hopefully within days I can tackle this DIY brake job. Never done one before so this is all new. One more question I have (hopefully last question) is exactly where do I place the car jack stand under the car once I jack the car up? thanks

PS: A picture would be worth a thousand words.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2016, 02:26 PM
Davidf Davidf is offline
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Behind each front wheel and in front of each rear wheel there is a jacking "point". Basically it looks like a rectangular plastic "socket". Just one ear of the jack stand in the hollow part (socket) of the plastic jack point fitting. I believe the locations are outlined/shown in the Owner's Manual. FWIW, I don't bother using jack stands when doing brakes as I am never under the car while doing so. If my floor jack fails, worst that can happen is the top of the wheel well will push my head down a little. But, jack stands would be the safer route regardless.
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2016, 02:47 PM
dommm dommm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidf View Post
Behind each front wheel and in front of each rear wheel there is a jacking "point". Basically it looks like a rectangular plastic "socket". Just one ear of the jack stand in the hollow part (socket) of the plastic jack point fitting. I believe the locations are outlined/shown in the Owner's Manual. FWIW, I don't bother using jack stands when doing brakes as I am never under the car while doing so. If my floor jack fails, worst that can happen is the top of the wheel well will push my head down a little. But, jack stands would be the safer route regardless.
Thanks for that. One of the items I bought was a cut out puck to place in the socket you mentioned. The ca jack then pushes up the the puck. I was more thinking of where to place the car jack stand once I have the car jacked up high enough to slid the car jack stand under the car?
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2016, 02:56 PM
Rick-F Rick-F is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dommm View Post
Would you have any idea what the torque number is for lug nuts or where I could get the number? thanks

140 Nm or a bit over 100 ft lbs

Clean, DRY threads-- no lube or anti-seize compound

Last edited by Rick-F; 12-01-2016 at 03:02 PM.
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2016, 03:04 PM
dommm dommm is offline
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Originally Posted by Rick-F View Post
140 Nm or a bit over 100 ft lbs

Clean, DRY threads-- no lube or anti-seize compound
Thanks for that!
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2016, 03:35 PM
Davidf Davidf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dommm View Post
Thanks for that. One of the items I bought was a cut out puck to place in the socket you mentioned. The ca jack then pushes up the the puck. I was more thinking of where to place the car jack stand once I have the car jacked up high enough to slid the car jack stand under the car?
I jack the car up via the differential (just keep off the delicate cover/cooling fins). I then use the side/sill jacking points for the jack stands. If you are using the jack that came with car, you are on your own on where to put the jack stands. Maybe just put one next to the jack and don't lower the car onto the stand. Just don't get under the car or the brake rotor.

100 ft-lbs is about right. More importantly is that they are all the same. 90-100 is fine.

Last edited by Davidf; 12-01-2016 at 03:37 PM.
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2016, 06:25 PM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidf View Post
I jack the car up via the differential (just keep off the delicate cover/cooling fins). I then use the side/sill jacking points for the jack stands. If you are using the jack that came with car, you are on your own on where to put the jack stands. Maybe just put one next to the jack and don't lower the car onto the stand. Just don't get under the car or the brake rotor.

100 ft-lbs is about right. More importantly is that they are all the same. 90-100 is fine.
I checked my F10 looking for a central jacking point to use my floor jack to swap out rear tires and I decided against using the differential. Instead I jacked up each side using the lower control arm which looks more beefy and up to the task.
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Last edited by JeffDunes; 12-01-2016 at 07:05 PM.
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  #21  
Old 12-01-2016, 07:34 PM
northeast_3er northeast_3er is offline
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Official recommended jacking point according to ISTA is the differential (right in front of the differential cover). I've used it on mine and then set the car on stands. In the front you'll see a metallic plate in front of the oil drain plug and that's where you do the front.
Good luck!
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2016, 07:51 AM
sjv sjv is offline
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I just did my rear brakes few months back and ran into a problem. The T30 screw holding the parking brake bracket did not come out. The screw rounded off and was stuck. Luckily I had rheingold ista-d software and was able to retract the parking brake.
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2016, 08:08 AM
dommm dommm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjv View Post
I just did my rear brakes few months back and ran into a problem. The T30 screw holding the parking brake bracket did not come out. The screw rounded off and was stuck. Luckily I had rheingold ista-d software and was able to retract the parking brake.
Ouch, did not want to hear that. Apparently that screw actually needs a Triple Square bit but many people have said the T30 Torx was fine to use. I tried but failed to find out the proper size Triple Square bit I would need for that screw & I did not want to buy a whole set of Triple Square bits knowing I would only need to use one of the bits. Thanks for the heads up
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  #24  
Old 12-02-2016, 10:58 AM
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Chuck W. Chuck W. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjv View Post
I just did my rear brakes few months back and ran into a problem. The T30 screw holding the parking brake bracket did not come out. The screw rounded off and was stuck. Luckily I had rheingold ista-d software and was able to retract the parking brake.
Man, I can't see how that happened. The Torx I used fit in perfect and the resistance is so low that I can't see how you could round it out. But then, there is always one!!
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  #25  
Old 12-02-2016, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck W. View Post
Man, I can't see how that happened. The Torx I used fit in perfect and the resistance is so low that I can't see how you could round it out. But then, there is always one!!

The first screw came out easily, the second one was like welded in. After that I tried with Wd40 and pliers, still did not come out.
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