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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 11-27-2011, 03:30 PM
south26 south26 is offline
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How to replace Subframe bushing

How to replace Subframe bushing


Hi, I just replacd my subframe bushing so I thought i would write it up.


Tools needed

1. 22mm socket (with socket wrench)
2. 13 mm socket
3. Floor jack
4. 2 jack stands
5. boards or other items to make jacks higher
6. Sawzal and medium length good blade 9should have more then 1
7. small floor jack
8. 2 lengths of 3 feet long chain (size used for trailer hitches)
9. The little links for chains you can unscrew and take off.
10. drill with 1/2 inch hole maker (can not think of name)

11. good cold rolled chisel
12. hammer (heavier the better, as long as you can use it)
13. Goggles and mouth cover for when drilling and cutting
14. big pliers
15. dish soap
16. fine sand paper




1st step: put bushings in a freezer one week before job.

2nd step: remove the plate below the bushing, it has 1 22mm and 2 13mm nuts holding it on.

3rd step: remove the rear seat. You will see the seat belt receptors on the sides next to the door. Each is held on by a 17mm, below that under the foam is a spot of black stuff, you have to remove that it get to the bolt holding the subframe. You need to remove this bolt. I was able to put a wooden board under the bottom of the bolt and whack it with a hammer and it came out. If this does not work I would suggest spraying it with a lot of anti-seize stuff, if that does not help you can try beating on it with a bigger hammer or using heat from a torch.

4th step : jack the car up to a height where you can get the sawzal up into the subframe bushing hole. Place the jack stands under the car so that they are not in your way.

5th step: using the sawzal and the drill to remove the center metal piece that the bolt goes through, if you are lucky it will just fall out like mine did.

5th step: You need to remove the 2 metal pieces on the sides of the bushing. I did this with the drill after I broke my blade on the sawzal. I use the big pliers to pull them out the rest of the way.

7th step: This is where you use the chisel to cut a line up the side of the metal sheath in the bushing. You can also do this with the sawzal. Once you have cut it all the way, you want to use the chisel to knock the bushing in so that it will loosen and can be removed. Then clean the hole out to where it is nice and smooth. I used 150 grain sand paper.

8th step: Now you have the bushing out. So get your cold bushing out of the freezer. You can also lower you car to about 2 or 3 inches higher then normal.

9th step. take the 2 chains and wrap then around the subframe. The picture is on its side.



10th step: place the small jack under subframe, I placed a 2 inch board to raise the jack higher to make it easier, but it was not necessary. Then soap up the bushing and place the subframe on the jack. Slowly jack the bushing up to the hole that it is going into. You have to make sure that the bushing is mated up to the 2 notches or bumps on the sides of the subframe hole. You will then jack the bushing up as high as you can before the car starts to rise. Then let the small jack down.

11th step: This is where you attach the chains to the jack turning it in to a press. I attached 1 chain to each side of the jack. using the links that you can take off and on.



12th step: Slowly jack the jack up. You will have to reposition the jack a number of times to make sure that bushing is going up nice and straight. But make sure that you stop every few jacks so the bushing can slowly go up. once you have make the bushing nice and flush to the subframe you need to but everything back together.

13th step repeat for the other side.

This took me about 1 1/2 hours. I used the drill a lot more then the sawzal.


So if you have any comments or thoughts please let me know.
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2011, 06:18 PM
south26 south26 is offline
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Anyone? any thoughts?


Andy
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2011, 08:24 AM
MeanM50 MeanM50 is offline
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Same write up as BF.c...still an awesome write up!
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:34 AM
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goosefoot33 goosefoot33 is offline
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Nice write-up, even with limited pictures. That looks like a spade wood bit you used, how long did that last when you're drilling metal?

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  #5  
Old 11-29-2011, 02:25 PM
south26 south26 is offline
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I was not drilling any metal, it was just the right size for going between the metal parts and cutting up the rubber.


Andy
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  #6  
Old 12-03-2011, 08:33 PM
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luckydog luckydog is offline
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What were the symtoms of the existing old bushing producing?. And good write up on the repair.
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:44 AM
south26 south26 is offline
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When starting up the car would feel like it was kicked in the passanger side, tthere was also a large,clunk noise. Also when turning it fealt like the whole car was shifting.

Andy
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:04 AM
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luckydog luckydog is offline
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Oh i see. very noticable shifting and clunking on turns. great fix, thanks for the info.
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  #9  
Old 04-04-2017, 04:45 PM
south26 south26 is offline
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HI, here is an old write up.


Andy
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