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E63 / E64 6 Series (2003 - 2013)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 06-11-2011, 12:45 PM
3Pedals_6Speeds 3Pedals_6Speeds is offline
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Coolant leak healed itself? Ambient temp related?

When I pulled my 645 out of winter storage there was a decent puddle of coolant underneath it, enough to cause me to drive immediately to someplace where I topped it off with straight water. I then lost about 1 qt over the next few weeks (little bit under engine each time I'd come out to garage) when the temps here in Michigan were still pretty low. Since it has warmed up, I'm not losing any, and there's none under the engine when I come out to it each day. It did seem like I didn't lose any last year until when it got cold, right before I put it away.

Any ideas why I'm only losing it when ambient temps are low? I NEVER get a coolant (sweet) smell in the car.
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  #2  
Old 06-11-2011, 03:30 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Once your coolant level is reduced percentage wise, it will not leak as much. If you add more coolant, it will start leaking again.
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  #3  
Old 06-11-2011, 04:12 PM
3Pedals_6Speeds 3Pedals_6Speeds is offline
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Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
Once your coolant level is reduced percentage wise, it will not leak as much. If you add more coolant, it will start leaking again.
Refilled to top, no leaking since.
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2011, 11:28 AM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Probably has something to do with metal contracting and expanding due to temps. There are way too many places where coolant can leak for us to speculate what the source is.

Next time it leaks pull out a flashlight and try to find the leak. You can also get a much better view by removing the lower cover which is held on by 10 screws.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2011, 11:42 AM
3Pedals_6Speeds 3Pedals_6Speeds is offline
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Yorgi - Do you mean the plastis shield at the bottom of the engine bay, or the valve covers (decorative)?
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2011, 12:06 AM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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I mean the front undertray. When you remove this you get an excellent view of the hoses and pumps from under the car.

If you see fluid on the ground and you cannot find the source by looking from the top of the engine, you will probably see the source by looking from under the car. The undertray is held on by 10 captive quick-release screws (when you undo them they stay attached to the cover) so removal is fast and painless. If you have ramps it will take 5 minutes to remove.
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  #7  
Old 06-14-2011, 03:50 PM
Blaknificent Blaknificent is offline
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Hi Yorgi~

I am leaking fluid due to that small hose that lies across the top of the radiator. It connects to a curvy hose that is connected to the expansion tank. Its skinny and long like about the size of the wooden stick on those fourth of july flags. Its secured on each end by small silver pinch brackets......

do you know the name or part number for this coolant line and do you think its an easy fix? Your knowledge about these cars is a blessing.

Thank you for any info and advice.

Parrish
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  #8  
Old 06-14-2011, 09:17 PM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaknificent View Post
Hi Yorgi~

I am leaking fluid due to that small hose that lies across the top of the radiator. It connects to a curvy hose that is connected to the expansion tank. Its skinny and long like about the size of the wooden stick on those fourth of july flags. Its secured on each end by small silver pinch brackets......

do you know the name or part number for this coolant line and do you think its an easy fix? Your knowledge about these cars is a blessing.

Thank you for any info and advice.

Parrish
That is the vent pipe / overflow hose. Where is is leaking?

If a pinched clamp is leaking it can be replaced with a standard stainless steel screw-down hose clamp. Use a screwdriver or needle nose pliers to loosen at the crimp. Then cut off the clamp (tin snips) or remove the rubber hose and pull off the clamp.

The vent pipe sells as one unit for ~ $57 if you need a new one. Part# 17127542540
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2011, 06:48 PM
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amcrae amcrae is offline
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Once again yorgi is right....It is called the vent pipe very easy to install

Sent from my PC36100 using Bimmer App
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  #10  
Old 06-16-2011, 04:58 PM
Blaknificent Blaknificent is offline
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Yorgi! Thank you very much for your help. I'm proud to be a part of this forum with such knowledgeable members. This car is affordable ONLY because of diehard bimmer fanatics like you and countless others. If i ever hit the Powerball, you can pick out two brand new bimmers for you and the Mrs!

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  #11  
Old 02-10-2014, 05:21 PM
PurpleSP4 PurpleSP4 is offline
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Hey Everyone,

I have the same problem..does anyone know where I can buy one besides dealer prices...?!?
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2014, 07:33 PM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Originally Posted by PurpleSP4 View Post
Hey Everyone,

I have the same problem..does anyone know where I can buy one besides dealer prices...?!?
If you don't mind ordering online try:
Tischer BMW
European Auto Source
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'04 M3 - track
'06 650i Cab - daily driver
'02 Highlander - kid hauler
'01 330Ci - winter beater

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  #13  
Old 02-11-2014, 11:20 AM
Skarv Skarv is offline
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I would add that this particular hose tube combination tends to fail in the straight plastic straw-like tube. Over time, it gets brittle and cracks making a tiny leak that eventually gets larger. Your first sign will be white droplet marks under the hood from where coolant has evaporated away.

The formed rubber hose ends are pretty tough, but they can leak too but usually because the clamps need tightening.

So... the cheap fixes for those that are just a bit handy:

1: Cut out the straight pipe part of the system. Cut off the clamps, and then pull out the bits of hose in the rubber ends. Go to your parts store and get a piece of fuel line hose of the same diameter as the rubber ends, two male to male connectors, and four serpentine hose clamps of the right size for the hose.

This will result in a setup much more robust than the original. Not sure why BMW uses that crappy straw pipe. It really is too fragile to be in a mission critical place like this.

2: If the junctions are leaking, then the clamps might need tightening. I have successfully tightened these things by pinching them tighter with diagonal cutters. Just be careful to not cut through them. If you can't get the tightness, then replace with a serpentine hose clamp that you can tighten properly.

3: If (and I've never heard of this) your connectors are leaking where they connect to the tank, either you need to replace the O rings that go inside them (it will be obvious) or you do need to replace the whole assembly as the connector is cracked.

Good luck.
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