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E36 /7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 roadster and coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 06-11-2011, 09:46 PM
Roundelnoob Roundelnoob is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 2.5i Roadster
Any difference in fancy vs. store bought brake fluid

My wife has an interest in working on her Z3 and we are doing the tranny and diff fluids next weekend. Got a fancy brand of that (name withheld to avoid the giant debate) but I was planning to use plain old auto parts brake fluid DOT 4 and flush things while each end was in the air. For general use do I need blue or red Motul or ATE stuff or will just flushing it with a straw colored fluid work (it is currently like an ale, not like the Guiness color of her girlfriend's Montero that we are going to address the same day). I am thinking that just changing old for new has far more value than getting the bragging brand.
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2011, 02:55 AM
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Pinecone Pinecone is offline
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The stock stuff is ATE Type 200. The Blue stuff is just ATE Type 200 with blue dye.

For pure street use, I like Castrol GTX LMA brake fluid.
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2011, 05:07 AM
Roundelnoob Roundelnoob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinecone View Post
The stock stuff is ATE Type 200. The Blue stuff is just ATE Type 200 with blue dye.

For pure street use, I like Castrol GTX LMA brake fluid.
Thanks. That clears it all up.
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2011, 06:16 AM
SUNZOUT SUNZOUT is offline
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ATE 200 (normal) - don't try the blue stuff. Still trying to get it all out after 3 flushes!!

Brake fluid is safety equipment - get's changed every 2 years and <$20 for ate200 why save a couple of bucks for something that is pretty important.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2011, 10:47 AM
Roundelnoob Roundelnoob is offline
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Alrighty you folks convinced me. Got ATE Gold on the way from Bavarian Autosport. I got a quart of the best auto parts store stuff but will use that to flush the fluid of my wife's business partner's Montero. She has a deployed husband and takes great care of her car, but went to the 99 dollar brake store and the fluid is somewhere between a Porter and Guiness.

I wonder how long brakes last in a Z3 anyway. So far it is much longer than my E46 325Ci.

Thanks for the advice on fluid for brakes. At least this topic is not as controversial as diff and tranny fluid.
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2011, 01:08 PM
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Pinecone Pinecone is offline
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Brakes????

Yuo actually USE the brakes????



I like the Castrol LMA stuff because it absorbs less moisture, so lasts longer in normal cars. I do my cars every couple of years. I use Castrol SRF for serious use. Not cheap, but holds up under very hard use.
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  #7  
Old 06-17-2011, 05:39 PM
dave94502 dave94502 is offline
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I agree w Pinecone-Castrol LMA ($4/12oz) is the one and it is now synthetic.

Brakes 101
On all brake fluids, look at the wet boiling point because brake fluid absorbs moisture extremely well. It seems the more expensive/exotic/higher boiling point fluids are the MOST susceptible to moisture. Motul 660 ($29/17oz) and 600 have nitrogen instead of air in the container to "extend its shelf life and eliminate moisture contamination while in its factory sealed container". (Ed: I added italics). AP PRF and 551 comes in .5 liter bottles with "double-sealed caps to ensure that the fluid stays fresh". The wet boiling point of Castro LMA (311 deg) is higher than AP 551 (284) or 600 (284) and equal to AP PRF. ATE Super Blue and Type 200 is not that much higher @ 396 and even Motul 600 has a wet boiling point of 399. Castrol SRF is the king @ 518, but it better be for $80/liter.

Racing or track pads tend to be metallic instead of ceramic like street pads. Metallic pads have high thermal conductivity compared to ceramic so the heat generated at the pad/rotor interface is transferred into the pad, then into the piston/caliper and then into the brake fluid. If the fluid boils, your brakes are toast.

The two best things you can do for your brakes for racing/track:
1) new pads- the thicker the pad material, the more insulation from heat it will provide.
2) new fluid-the less moisture it will contain

I use Castrol LMA even in the race car (but it weights only 1100 lbs w driver).
dave
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  #8  
Old 06-18-2011, 04:44 AM
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We use Castrol LMA in the race cars (run by the shop I use). But again, they are not as heavy or as fast as my street car.

With using SRF, I flush annually, but I do track the car.
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  #9  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:46 PM
dave94502 dave94502 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinecone View Post
or as fast as my street car.
Terry, Terry. Terry
This is so wrong on soooooo many levels.
A street car should never, ever be as fast or faster than your race car. To correct this sorry situation, either:
1) get a slower street car (that ain't gonna happen, is it?-LOL), or
2) get a faster race car
I recommend a faster race car. A buddy of mine has a Swift 014 FA for sale for only $75K that NO street car could ever dream of touching. Let me know if you are interested.

dave (the big kidder)
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2011, 06:55 AM
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My race car cost a LOT less than my street car or that race car. And it is about the quality of the racing, not the speed of the car.

Of, and my race car costs less to fix than my street car or an FA. Just had to do a tranny rebuild, $1800. And that will last about 70 - 75 races.
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  #11  
Old 06-20-2011, 08:25 AM
dave94502 dave94502 is offline
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A couple of my buds that run SRFs were complaining about the fuel pump pressure. One said it was too low which caused the engine to run lean and he burnt a couple of pistons. It was a brand new rebuild, too. Have you had encountered/heard this?
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