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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-21-2011, 06:52 PM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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BMW 528i 1997 Fuel Pump replacemnt (Insert only) DIY

Hi,

I have some time finally to do write up of my recent fuel pump replacement procedure.
There's a few but I will make my own, the more the better LOL

Truly to say I was scary to do anything with fuel lines at my car but when dealer told me cost of replacement for FP ($1300 and FP cost $421, rest is labor) I changed my mind and decided to try. I decided to go with aftermarket fuel pump insert only that sold very well on eBay and with good reviews. I choose 190LPH one.

After doing it I can say that if you go with complete unit it's very easy DIY, changing insert only will probably add like 30 min or so to remove it from holder, it has 3 clamps kind of thing so if you have spare hand it would be very helpful In total it took me about an 1 h and the most time consuming part was put that big sealing ring back in place in same time as pump and, after all, I realized that I forgot to put bottom filter aka sock , but removing and placing it back included in that 1 h, so, after all, I starts to hate our stealer even more for huge overcharge (6h of labor at rate of $150) for this job.

Ok, let's smell some fuel Actually you will do that a lot so be ready, it's better to do it outside, not in closed parking garage as I did but I had no choice.

First step is to remove back seat. You need just pulled it on both sides up.
Then you need to unscrew 3 screws that hold metallic plate.
After this done you can see main place of work. I didn't do any photos and will not stop here much as there're a lot of DIY that show this part.
I did use small C-Clamp to squeeze fuel line so no fuel leak.
When you remove fuel line, connector (its slides to the side) you are ready to take out fuel pump assembly. Do it carefully as hose that goes from pump to fuel line is long and make a loop inside. In my case I found 2 clamps that holds all assembly intact inside, so you press them and taking it out. It was very easy.
Here's unit out


Now you need to remove pump insert from plastic holder, there're 3 rubber bushings that hold it in place, here's close view

and view from the top for all 3


Remove filter from bottom part of FP. Then I used flat screw driver to remove them all and took FP insert out.
Here's how it looks like without main plastic housing:


Now fun part - you need to remove insert from inner plastic housing. There're 3 clamps and you need to hold all 3 in order to remove it. In my case I found that 2 of 3 where with space inside so I used Allen wrenched to hold them and on last one I use crew driver and it was out.



Here's all items fully disassembled.


Here's pic of old unit


At this point you can walk outside to have some fresh air LOL

Now you are ready to get everything together. Insert new unit into inner housing; please note that it should be inserted right.
Here's new unit ready to be wet!


Then go in reverse order and put it into main housing, put hose back, put contacts back on, they are different in size so it's hard to screw it up. Put bottom filter back (I forgot ).

When you done with this, take a final look and check hose clamp, wire connectors one more time and let's do the longest part.
First you need to learn layout of housing at the tank, then take a look into FP housing you are holding and you will figure out how to insert it right. One trick for me, that O-Ring that always slip when you try to put everything together should be installed first to outside edge of tank, and then you can finish with FP installation back. Be careful, no force needed, it should go to its place, otherwise you can't install it correctly. Also be very careful with fuel level sensor.
After it back on, put big metal holder back, tight it with rubber hammer and flat screwdriver, put fuel hose back, connect wires, check everything one more time and now very nervous part for me - start a car But since I'm writing it now I did it right After you started car, check for leaks, if no leaks, put metal plate back, install back seat on it's position and you are done!

Pump cost me $77, so I have another $1200 for other projects sitting in my pocket (well, I did use them very quickly though )!

Overall, it's very easy DIY but kind of scary one in my case as I did it on 6th floor at our parking garage and you never know who's walking around and smoking or now...

It's my first write up but I hope that it helps to same some money (in my case they are big) and leave thouse *****g stealer without work until they stop robber us.

PS Sorry for grammar, English is not my native language...
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Last edited by vetaldj; 06-21-2011 at 07:08 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-21-2011, 07:58 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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vetaldj,

Nice job!

What is the exact brand name (? Walbro), model number, and place you bought it from?

Is the fuel pump here:

http://highflowfuel.com/p-3901-bmw-e...all-guide.html

http://highflowfuel.com/i-5209584-oe...1997-1999.html


PS: Just be careful of ebay, some sellers sell fake Walbro fuel pump.

Last edited by cn90; 06-21-2011 at 08:10 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-21-2011, 08:29 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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For those who want alternative.

Bosch 67897 is $199 on Amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-67897-El...1998&carId=001

HELLA H72010351 Electric Fuel Pump is $137:
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H7201035...1998&carId=001
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:29 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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So this isn't lost, I added it to the bestlinks ...

- Testing (1) and replacing the fuel pump (1) (2) () (4) (5) (6) & your available fuelpump options (1) & a DIY for replacing the fuel filter (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:29 PM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
vetaldj,

Nice job!

What is the exact brand name (? Walbro), model number, and place you bought it from?

Is the fuel pump here:

http://highflowfuel.com/p-3901-bmw-e...all-guide.html

http://highflowfuel.com/i-5209584-oe...1997-1999.html


PS: Just be careful of ebay, some sellers sell fake Walbro fuel pump.
It's exectly the place I have bought my pump But I did from their eBay store to get 5% cashback. I went with that 190 LPH, it's their own brand, not Welbro.

2 weeks and no problem yet.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:24 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetaldj View Post
It's exectly the place I have bought my pump But I did from their eBay store to get 5% cashback. I went with that 190 LPH, it's their own brand, not Walbro.

2 weeks and no problem yet.
Does the fuel pump say "made in USA" etc.?
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:57 AM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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take it for what it's worth....but the rules have changed with Fuel Pumps.

Buy the cheapest FP out there. A $60 china made ebay FP is going to work just as long as an OEM one costing $250 and up.
THe new enemy is ETHANOL. Expect fuel pump failures in 3-5 yrs, vs.10-15yrs previously enjoyed with conventional gas that used to be oily in suspension.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:15 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post
take it for what it's worth....but the rules have changed with Fuel Pumps.

Buy the cheapest FP out there. A $60 china made ebay FP is going to work just as long as an OEM one costing $250 and up.
THe new enemy is ETHANOL. Expect fuel pump failures in 3-5 yrs, vs.10-15yrs previously enjoyed with conventional gas that used to be oily in suspension.
The reason I stayed away from that was the noticeable performace loss. Now I have to add something new to the list.......
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:38 PM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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I don't remember that something was writtem on my pump so I don't know where it was made, but I think in China

I decided to get this chance as they sold alot of them and users happy. Plus lifetime warranty. It's easy job I can do it one more time now.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:45 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetaldj View Post
I don't remember that something was writtem on my pump so I don't know where it was made, but I think in China

I decided to get this chance as they sold alot of them and users happy. Plus lifetime warranty. It's easy job I can do it one more time now.

Good information and DIY Write-up!

Keep in mind, Lifetime Warranty is only as good as highflowfuel.com stays in business. But for $70, even if they do it is no big deal.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:45 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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For those with high mileage and who travel long-distance and concerned about fuel pump, it is not a bad idea to buy a fuel pump (whether it is Walbro or from this DIY) and store it in the trunk. With $60-70 for fuel pump, it is a bargain.
(With gasoline at $3.80/gallon, it costs $60 for me to fill my gas tank anyway!).

This is the kind of repair that can be performed in the middle of nowhere with minimal tools.
Just make sure you carry these tools and some basic clamps in the trunk.

Last edited by cn90; 06-22-2011 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
it is not a bad idea to ... store it in the trunk
Some day a cop is gonna stop you and ask why you have all those parts in the trunk (in the plastic bucket).

The wary officer is gonna suspect you of midnight auto parts shopping sprees!



PS: I need to start a bestlink line ...
- Here is what cn90 recommends you store in your trunk for long trips ...
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Old 06-23-2011, 02:03 AM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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If they stop me right now I definitely will spend at least night in jail
All my tools, new and old parts in my trunk as I don't have place to store them...
And I already changed alot plus few boxes sitting there waiting when I find some time to use them (oil level sender with oil change, transmission fluid with filter, some vaccum hoses, belts, vanos (soon) etc)
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:06 PM
aflo936 aflo936 is offline
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Guys, go on Ebay. The HELLA H72010351 Electric Fuel Pump sells for $94.00. I ordered it on Friday in NC and it arrived in mail on Monday from CA. Great deal.
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:36 PM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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I agree! I love eBay, you can get good deals there.

eBay is not bad at all in regards of parts but you need to be very carefull in selecting sellers though.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:36 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aflo936 View Post
Guys, go on Ebay. The HELLA H72010351 Electric Fuel Pump sells for $94.00.
Could you provide a linky, I searched ebay and could not find HELLA H72010351.
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Old 07-21-2011, 10:08 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Interesting thread....
Is this pump the same as the $300 OEM fuel pump?
Link:
http://www.eaceuroparts.com/parts/pa...06%20752%20368
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:40 PM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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Nope. This one cost $67 and this is just silver tube, pump itself, aka insert without all that plastic and hose.

I didn't replace all that housing that you can see around insert (actual pump) on your picture. But, main thing, they will do equal job, but mine way cheaper. I don't see any reason to change everything as it simple plastic and it looks like new. Alternative - BOSCH pump cost around $200 at amazon.com (full unit, as on your picture).
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Last edited by vetaldj; 07-21-2011 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:53 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Another option for Pierburg Fuel Pump:

BMW PN 16146752368.

There is a seller from Germany selling Pierburg for $122 Euro:
http://seekpart24.com/pierburg/fuel-pump-722013020

----------
PIERBURG: 7.22013.02.0; 7.22013.00.0 7.22013.01.0; 7.22013.03.0; 7.22013.04.0; 7.22013.09.0; 7.22013.12.0; 7.22013.18.0
BMW: 1 183 176; 1 183 216; 16 14 1 183 176; 16 14 1 183 216; 16 14 6 752 368; 6 752 368
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:01 PM
Takechan Takechan is offline
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I recently replaced my fuel pump with a non-OEM pump from Topran.

However, A friend of mine noticed that an o-ring was missing as seen on the pictures below.

I have no idea what function it serves, but since my friend who bought the same version also had that part missing, i'll assume that pumps from Topran are delivering without that o-ring.

I'm going to pull it back up so I can swap the old o-ring onto the new one, but does anyone know what it does?
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:25 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I'm going through all the bestlinks fuel pump & fuel filter DIYs to see how to test the fuel system because of a particularly persistent set of error codes:
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)

Specifically, I'm hoping to find a picture of the E39 I6 Schrader valve to hook up the Autozone fuel system tester to.

So far, none of these has the information I seek:
- How to replace and service your BMW E39 fuel injectors (1) & location of relays in the trunk compartment including the fuel pump relay K96 (1) & testing (1) and replacing the fuel pump (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & your available fuelpump options (1) & a DIY for replacing the fuel filter (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)

Neither could I find it on Realoem (surprisingly).

Anyone have a picture location of the E39 M54 fuel system Schrader test valve?
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:37 PM
Nervous Nervous is offline
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Here is my experience with replacing the fuel pump insert. I bought the same pump insert as OP, seller "highflowfuel" on ebay, item "E39 & E38 Direct Replacement Intank Electric Fuel Pump", $69.98 shipped. They even have a DIY writeup on their site:
http://www.highflowfuel.com/p-3901-b...all-guide.html

However, my pump was a bit different from the one they used for the writeup (my car is 2000 540i):


This is how connectors look like on my pump (unlike bare metal connector in the writeup of highflow):


Comparing original (left) and new pump motors:



As you can see, the new one is shorter, the nozzle points in different direction (related to contacts), '+' and '-' contacts are swapped by each other, and more importantly - they are too close to each other, thus, plastic connectors wouldn't fit. And they call it 'direct fit'? Ha!



I cut the plastic divider between the contacts on the pump and here how I put connectors on it:






BTW, their green new filter was not necessary, the original one was an part of the pump insert holder (and you can't remove it w/o cutting and dremelling the holder). I just cleaned it and called it a day.

Don't forget the metal clip that secures the pump motor in the plastic holder. I was afraid it won't work due to difference in the motor height, but it went over the nozzle pretty good:


Re-install it into the tank, I also replaced the big O-ring gasket for the cover. It works. Hopefully it will work for a long time. But again: it is not exact replica of the original pump motor and you might need modify it as I did.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:43 PM
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I got a Bulgarian site that has the Pierburg pumps. They have 2, look similar, have the same Pierburg code (7.22013.02.0), but have 2 different prices: one is 56.16 Euros, the other one 101.92 Euros. But they are the same.
Could anyone elaborate? Here is the linky
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TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:48 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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At the moment (Aug 2013), there is a seller on ebay that sells the OEM Fuel Pump (made by Pierburg) for $50, free shipping.
I just bought one as spare and it is genuinely original when I received it.
Normally, this goes for about $200.
Anyway, at $50, it is a steal.

Go to ebay and enter:
- 16146752368
- Look for the seller with username sae-auto, based in Redford, MI.

There are only qty = 7 for sales.

Stock it up guys!
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:03 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Thx Cam. Ordered, waiting for the spare now.
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TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
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