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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 06-25-2011, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GunsBMW View Post
Its just going to take more torque. I know I have to right tool but those bolts I guess are attached to the frame. So I either need a stronger guy other then my self or a better tool. I know they arent rusted but I will get a friction agent to help as well. What about an air tool?
A longer lever would help. Maybe see if you can find a piece of pipe that fits over the handle of your ratchet to make it longer. Don't hurt yourself!
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  #27  
Old 06-27-2011, 06:07 PM
phoenix13 phoenix13 is offline
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Originally Posted by WJGreer View Post
A longer lever would help. Maybe see if you can find a piece of pipe that fits over the handle of your ratchet to make it longer. Don't hurt yourself!
This is the better option than an air tool... a small piece of pipe works great on the end of a socket wrench. An air tool is a great way to strip a screw head if you let it rip too fast. If all else fails, air tool might be your only option, but I would make it my last one.
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  #28  
Old 06-27-2011, 07:21 PM
Raymond Lee Raymond Lee is offline
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Is it worth upgrade when it was never designed for it? MBZ E350 comes with Harmon Kardon 5.1 surround system. Just go and listen to it once. Then, you will never buy another BMW with lousy sound system.
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  #29  
Old 06-27-2011, 08:11 PM
phoenix13 phoenix13 is offline
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Originally Posted by Raymond Lee View Post
Is it worth upgrade when it was never designed for it? MBZ E350 comes with Harmon Kardon 5.1 surround system. Just go and listen to it once. Then, you will never buy another BMW with lousy sound system.
BMW is the ultimate driving machine, not MBZ. Regardless of what sound system they install at the factory. No disrespect.
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  #30  
Old 06-28-2011, 05:56 AM
Raymond Lee Raymond Lee is offline
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Don't get me wrong. I also like driving BMW but I got to tell you that the sound system bugs hell out of me. In 2011 BMW, they have same unit as MBZ if you pay for so called "premium sound system"
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  #31  
Old 06-28-2011, 05:59 AM
phoenix13 phoenix13 is offline
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I do agree that when you put that kind of money down for a vehicle it shouldn't need a $2k upgrade right off the bat.
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  #32  
Old 06-28-2011, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Raymond Lee View Post
Is it worth upgrade when it was never designed for it? MBZ E350 comes with Harmon Kardon 5.1 surround system. Just go and listen to it once. Then, you will never buy another BMW with lousy sound system.
For what it may be worth, and since people have been nice enough to give me a reputation as knowledgeable about E60 audio around here - I will say that I do recommend buying the Logic 7 or whatever the upgraded sound system is called these days. I happened to find the CPO car I wanted, which didn't have it, and I spent a lot more money upgrading the standard audio than Logic 7 would have originally cost, to say nothing of time in the garage. Although some people upgrade it too, Logic is up there with any luxury car OEM sound system IMO.
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Last edited by WillInDenver; 06-28-2011 at 08:18 AM.
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  #33  
Old 06-28-2011, 08:07 AM
jmulls jmulls is offline
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OK the PnP 555... If I go this route (I have a 2008 528i w/o Hk stereo)... will it void warranty? I just picked up a cpo and also got unlimited maintenance as a promo... and I's hate to screw that up...

Any ideas where one can get the wiring cables needed for the 555?

Thanks
Jim
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  #34  
Old 06-28-2011, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by WJGreer View Post
A longer lever would help. Maybe see if you can find a piece of pipe that fits over the handle of your ratchet to make it longer. Don't hurt yourself!

Ok Im going to try a a longer lever and see what that do but those screws are really tight. How in the hell did the factory put them in so tight. Thats why I thought maybe an air tool. I will let you know my out come after I try it.
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  #35  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:07 AM
whdigital whdigital is offline
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WJGreer, et al:

I have a line on a deal for a used Blaupunkt THA-475 4/3/2 amp that I might grab today. Is it fundamentally different than the 555 that you have and therefore not worth the purchase at any price? Also, any ideas on where to score the wiring harnesses? I've searched on Google, but I may not be using the right terms...

p.s. still feeling a bit stupid on the seat subs. Where are they mounted exactly? I swear I can't find mine - are they hidden by the foam and "basket?"
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  #36  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by whdigital View Post
WJGreer, et al:

I have a line on a deal for a used Blaupunkt THA-475 4/3/2 amp that I might grab today. Is it fundamentally different than the 555 that you have and therefore not worth the purchase at any price? Also, any ideas on where to score the wiring harnesses? I've searched on Google, but I may not be using the right terms...

p.s. still feeling a bit stupid on the seat subs. Where are they mounted exactly? I swear I can't find mine - are they hidden by the foam and "basket?"
The 475 isn't a good choice for your application. It's got a maximum of four channels and you need either five or six (four for the component speakers at the corners and one or two for the subs). You could use it for your mains only and find another amp solution for your subs, but check to see if the 475 has a pass-through line output for a sub first. If it does, running a sub output to another amp is very easy and may end up being a great solution. If it doesn't, crossing over your signal and breaking it into a 4.1 or 4.2 output will cost more money and you won't be able to use the plug-and-play cable for the Blaupunkt amp any more.

The subs are under a plastic mesh grill almost directly below the seats. IIRC, there are four screws holding it down, and when you remove it you will see the sub right there.

EDIT: I just found a picture of a 475 on the web. From what I can tell, it does have a line output, which is excellent news. So you could use it for the mains at 75 watts per channel and buy a separate subwoofer amp for your subs. If you don't want to do that, contact me offline, I might be willing to trade you for my 555.
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Last edited by WillInDenver; 06-28-2011 at 10:17 AM.
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  #37  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:16 AM
whdigital whdigital is offline
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Thanks Will! I will scour around for a 555, or just wait to see if BSW will ever get out of "vapor-ware" status on their solution!
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  #38  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:40 AM
DRExi22 DRExi22 is offline
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So will one of those amps improve the sound of the logic 7 system?
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  #39  
Old 06-28-2011, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by DRExi22 View Post
So will one of those amps improve the sound of the logic 7 system?
I've got no experience there. But I do know that the Logic system has more channels - it's at least 6.1, as it has six sets of components instead of four. Does it have a center channel too? Then 7.1 or 7.2, depending on how it amplifies the subs.

You could upgrade the amp, but it would be a more complex undertaking for this reason.

I might think about upgrading the subs to the Earthquake models though - not too expensive, very easy, and you get immediate feedback. Make sure you play the impedance right - each sub channel probably has a 2 ohm minimum rating, so if your amp runs one channel for each sub (as I suspect), you can order the 2-ohm model. If you want to run them in parallel on one channel, each of them should be a 4-ohm model for a 2-ohm combined load.
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Last edited by WillInDenver; 06-28-2011 at 10:52 AM.
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  #40  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:25 AM
whdigital whdigital is offline
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@WJGreer... There's someone selling multiple 555s New In Box on eBay for pretty cheap. Only question now is where in the heck to the wiring harness...
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  #41  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:44 AM
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@WJGreer... There's someone selling multiple 555s New In Box on eBay for pretty cheap. Only question now is where in the heck to the wiring harness...
Yeah, that was harder to find for me as well. I ended up ordering one from the UK a couple years ago.

This guy claims to have them.
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  #42  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by whdigital View Post
@WJGreer... There's someone selling multiple 555s New In Box on eBay for pretty cheap. Only question now is where in the heck to the wiring harness...
You actually found the 555 on ebay. I have been looking for it. Do you have the link or ebay number and WJGreer and why do you keep saying the subs under the seat are easy to replace them scews holding the seat down are tough.
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  #43  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:01 PM
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WJGreer why do you keep saying the subs under the seat are easy to replace them scews holding the seat down are tough.
LOL. Yours must really be in there tight. Please post a picture so we can all see if you are a girly man.

Seriously though - those bolts are keeping your seat from flying out the window with you in it. No surprise they are torqued down pretty hard.
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  #44  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by WJGreer View Post
LOL. Yours must really be in there tight. Please post a picture so we can all see if you are a girly man.

Seriously though - those bolts are keeping your seat from flying out the window with you in it. No surprise they are torqued down pretty hard.
LMAO...I guess I do need to find a stronger guy. Hell but like I told you I even tried my drill. But you are right about one thing soon as I loosen them just my luck I wont screw them down tight enough and next thing Im flying through my windshield. All this just for a better sound system. Is it really worth it. I might just go ahead and sell these speakers
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  #45  
Old 06-28-2011, 01:15 PM
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LMAO...I guess I do need to find a stronger guy. Hell but like I told you I even tried my drill. But you are right about one thing soon as I loosen them just my luck I wont screw them down tight enough and next thing Im flying through my windshield. All this just for a better sound system. Is it really worth it. I might just go ahead and sell these speakers
I spent the whole summer in Jackson last year working on a big software deal with the state government. Bad timing; I could have come by to help on my way out!
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  #46  
Old 06-28-2011, 01:22 PM
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Funny you said that. I had the speakers since last summer hell I had the speakers since I bought the car 2 years ago but last summer I was in Afghanistan so it wouldnt have matter.

Im still going to try the longer lever thing and see what happens. Thanks for your help so far.
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  #47  
Old 06-28-2011, 04:09 PM
jmulls jmulls is offline
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Blaupunkt 555 on ebay for 139 + shipping, more than 10 available.
Do a search for Blaupunkt 555. two sellers, one selling for 370 something... and this one.

As a newbie, I hate asking a question a second time, but does installation of these amps cause any alarms or error messages. Will it void a warranty

What does the wiring kit consist of?

Last edited by jmulls; 06-28-2011 at 04:11 PM.
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  #48  
Old 06-28-2011, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jmulls View Post
Blaupunkt 555 on ebay for 139 + shipping, more than 10 available.
Do a search for Blaupunkt 555. two sellers, one selling for 370 something... and this one.

As a newbie, I hate asking a question a second time, but does installation of these amps cause any alarms or error messages. Will it void a warranty

What does the wiring kit consist of?
Jim, I got your PM as well, and I'm going to answer the questions in it here for the group's benefit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmulls
1) where did you put the 555 amp... is it a drop into the same location that the BMW amp is?
I'm not sure the 555 would fit behind the piece of trim in the trunk that covers the amp. If it did, it probably wouldn't get adequate airflow for cooling. Here's where I put mine:



That's a piece of MDF I screwed into the underside of the deck, and the amp onto that. Ignore the wiring you see to the lower left - that's there for a sub box that I don't have anymore, and it's not connected to anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmulls
2) Do I need to remove the head unit at all?
Yes, you do. The wiring cable that you buy separately from the PnP amp is a big part of the solution - it terminates on the head unit end in a module that plugs into the back of the head unit where the outputs to the OEM amp normally sit. You don't have to cut anything back there, though.

The instructions that come with the cable are pretty clear, but since you asked...yes, I did cause a fault code that I had to take the car in to fix. They told me that I had wired something wrong with the amp behind the head unit to cause the fault. I am not sure what I did wrong.

My car was out of original warranty but still in CPO warranty when this happened. Clearly that service call wasn't covered, but aside from a little finger wagging, they didn't give me any trouble on the warranty. Your mileage may vary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmulls
3) I see they also made some extension cables.. any idea what theay are for?
See above; the cables are the actual useful part of the PnP story, since they provide the interface to the head unit.

So, no need to cut cables behind the head unit to make this work. I think you have to cut the cables coming out of the OEM amp, unless you plan to run all new speaker wiring (PITA). But with 30 minutes and some heat-shrink cable shielding, you could re-connect them before you turn in the car and I seriously doubt you'd get any heat on it. Again, your mileage may vary.
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  #49  
Old 06-28-2011, 06:57 PM
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Will,
Thanks a million, having been through issues in the past with On star on an Escalade, and electrically sensitive Volvo swap outs of head units and amps.. my wife will kill me if I mess this up lol..so I am gonna talk to my sales manager... they seemed pretty easy going...

So the cable kit connections behind the head unit I understand... I am assuming this is that kit (sorry I dont know how to shrink links):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=DeloreanPilot

But where I get confused... that harness does not look long enough to run back to the new amp... Is that what this kit is for:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=DeloreanPilot

If not... where does the new amp get power from, a relay to turn it on etc... or is that disconnected from the old amp as well as the speaker cables?

I'm assuming the new amp will need to have the following input into it... Pre-amp line ins (for all speakers plus sub)
Power
Ground
relay to power it on when car is switched on,

The second kit is 105 (which seems insane... ) So i guess in summary I am trying to figure out if the 2nd set of cables is needed, or do you disconnect all of the connections to the old amp and plug them in the new one..

Again thanks!
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  #50  
Old 06-28-2011, 07:15 PM
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WillInDenver WillInDenver is online now
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Originally Posted by jmulls View Post
Will,
Thanks a million, having been through issues in the past with On star on an Escalade, and electrically sensitive Volvo swap outs of head units and amps.. my wife will kill me if I mess this up lol..so I am gonna talk to my sales manager... they seemed pretty easy going...

So the cable kit connections behind the head unit I understand... I am assuming this is that kit (sorry I dont know how to shrink links):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=DeloreanPilot

But where I get confused... that harness does not look long enough to run back to the new amp... Is that what this kit is for:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=DeloreanPilot

If not... where does the new amp get power from, a relay to turn it on etc... or is that disconnected from the old amp as well as the speaker cables?

I'm assuming the new amp will need to have the following input into it... Pre-amp line ins (for all speakers plus sub)
Power
Ground
relay to power it on when car is switched on,

The second kit is 105 (which seems insane... ) So i guess in summary I am trying to figure out if the 2nd set of cables is needed, or do you disconnect all of the connections to the old amp and plug them in the new one..

Again thanks!
From what I can tell, those are the same product in different lengths. You disconnect the OEM cable from the head unit to the amp and put this one in its place, more or less. There's slightly more to it than that, but that's directionally right.

This is the second time in this discussion I've noticed that DeLoreanPilot vendor. He must trade in this stuff, so I suggest you check with him to make sure you have the right part. Sadly, I do remember spending about $105 on it myself.

The Blaupunkt amp takes 4 channels of input via the $105 cable and does the sub crossover itself, then it spits out 4 channels of output plus two (or one bridged) sub outputs.

The $105 cable is supposed to carry power to the amp, but I couldn't get that to work, so I ran a separate cable to the battery, which is right there in the trunk anyway. That additional effort was trivial. It's the red and black ones heading to the right in my picture.

The amp takes the power signal from the head unit as a relay.

EDIT: No, on second look you do need both of those cables. The first one is the interface to the head unit, and the second one is the extension to get to the back of the car, as you say. It's all coming back to me...2 years since I did that. Oops.
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