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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 10-23-2011, 10:43 AM
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nyclad nyclad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratbones2002 View Post
Where did you all purchase the spring and crush washer from?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blz456 View Post
I would just for the heck of it. The spring cost me all of 3 bucks and the washer was 25 cents all from eac and only 5 minutes of your time.
See above, as well as lots of other places. Autohausaz, ECSTuning, etc...
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  #27  
Old 10-24-2011, 07:30 AM
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menhir menhir is offline
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I did mine yesterday as well although I had no noise emanating from that area. Once I closed it up and started the car the noise then became evident at idle (engine was cold). However, the noise seems to have disappeared after 70 miles of combined driving. I guess it has to set itself; the Bentley manual suggests the spring be "pre-set" to 6 in/lbs before installing the complete unit, which, of course, requires a special BMW tool. Maybe the lack of pre-set is what caused the initial noise on start up. No big deal.

That said, it couldn't be easier to do and for the simple cost it's a must.
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  #28  
Old 10-27-2011, 05:17 PM
JimJai@HK JimJai@HK is offline
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Ordered parts and doing it on my next oil change. I can't believe how cheap the part is, cost me 45RMB....

Thank you Bimmerfest!
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  #29  
Old 10-29-2011, 12:13 PM
riro424 riro424 is offline
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Thanks Doru. Just done mine while changing my OFH gasket.
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2012, 11:39 AM
Realpinkfloyd Realpinkfloyd is offline
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Can this only be done when changing your oil?
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  #31  
Old 03-13-2012, 12:11 PM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Realpinkfloyd View Post
Can this only be done when changing your oil?
I think you can do it any-time. The oil should pool back in the oil pan once the engine is stopped. You will still have oil in the housing though. Just cover the place with rugs so the oil won't spill everywhere. It can land on the exhaust manifold, and then it will burn and the smoke might get into the cabin.

GL
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  #32  
Old 03-13-2012, 01:14 PM
black528i black528i is offline
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Thanks for the DIY Doru!!
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  #33  
Old 04-07-2012, 09:34 AM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Oh, so the TENSIONER is much easier to replace than the GUIDES, correct?
What happens when the TENSIONER starts to fail? Spring loses tension and the chain insider the valve cover starts to flap around?
Can you just replace the spring? Seems unnecessary to replace the metal parts.

The timing chain GUIDES are on the inside of the valve covers ....you know, where you're looking at the "oily orange" gears and chains. (Like in the VANOS job).
When the guides fail, the chains just can flap around and eventually break?
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  #34  
Old 04-07-2012, 09:39 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Yes, yes, and yes. I replaced the spring and gasket on mine a couple of months ago.

See my reply on your post on the other forum.
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  #35  
Old 09-21-2012, 06:59 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Just replaced my spring , have driven around for about 10 miles and noticing a little better rumble of the engine taking off and when driving on flat land around where I live the vac gauge says it's taking less gass pedal to travel --hmmm might be a placebo or might be real--anyway it's good prevetative medicine
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  #36  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:33 PM
lucky408 lucky408 is offline
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hi

Whats up guys?

I am doing this on my 2001 BMW 530i E39 almost 120000 miles this weekend. I am posting a link to my video if you guys can please help me out and let me know if that is the tensioner noise or the Vannos Rattle. Also should I drain all the oil first and install the tensioner with new spring and washer and put new oil? Do i need to fill the tensioner which seems like hard to do because it will keep falling out while putting it back? Is it ok to reinstall it without oil filled in the tensioner and just do the regular filter and oil after installing the tensioner?

Heres the link to the video



Thank you
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  #37  
Old 03-27-2013, 11:40 AM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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sound like a Vanos Rattle from beginning
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2013, 11:54 AM
lucky408 lucky408 is offline
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Glad i ordered the rattle repair kit.

Thank you
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  #39  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:35 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I realize this thread is for the I6, but, if you've done your timing chains, then Gary needs you to review this DIY:
Quote:
Originally Posted by gary@germanautosolutions View Post
I have a favor to ask those of you that have performed the timing chain and guide replacement on their M62-tu 540. Would you be willing to review our M62tu Cam Tool Kit instruction page and let me know if I missed anything, or got anything wrong. The instruction page also has links to BMW PDF's that cover preliminary dis-assembly procedures.

http://germanautosolutions.com/diy_t..._tools_diy.php

Any additional suggestions or tips would be also be welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Gary
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #40  
Old 07-29-2013, 09:56 AM
Blight67 Blight67 is offline
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I just replaced the tensioner spring on my 2002 e39 M54 at 116k during a routine oil change. The procedure is simple as long as you have the proper tools. I used a 32mm socket purchased for about $4 from my local Harbor Freight and some extenders I had laying around

A couple of additional notes.
  1. The only tricky part of the entire procedure is applying sufficient pressure to the plunger against your new higher tension spring as you try to get the threads to match up.
  2. Per the TIS, the torque specs should be:
    Cylinder for chain tensioner plunger M50/M52/S52/S50 US M26 x 1.5: 70 Nm
    All others M26 x 1.5: 50 Nm <-- this is what I used for my M54
  3. The car had not shown any prior unusual sounds, but after the replacement, the car exhibited a rattle sound at idle. The sound was very similar to online samples of the Vanos rattle that I've heard. Although quite alarming (to the point that I had even considered reverting the change), the rattle disappeared after about 5 miles of driving.
  4. My new spring was about 5 mm longer than the original. This appears similar to what others have posted.
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  #41  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:02 PM
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diggyd357 diggyd357 is offline
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Re: Timing chain tensioner replace for i6 (DIY)

My turn lol.... just did mine after hearing the clattery rattle for about 2 weeks or so. I did it without draining the oil as I had just done a royal prlurple oil change 3 wks ago. I lost no more oil than than that on the paper towels in the op's pics. It took me about 7 minutes in the dark and the total cost was $5.88 for the spring and washer fron Pelican shipped. My rattle is gone and car seems to pull better. Maybe im imagining it like poolman said....but can anyone vouch for or against this theory of slight yet noticeable return of performance ? I did do my vanos seals a few months ago and noticed absolutely NO difference so maybe the 2 being done together...like a fuel pump and fpr ???? Just tthinking out loud here....

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
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Last edited by diggyd357; 10-23-2013 at 06:03 PM.
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  #42  
Old 07-11-2014, 10:01 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, this was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > more m52 timing confusion - use bentley or pelican?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzbrown View Post
I have looked at both multiple times. Watched video's and am still confused. It seems that bentley and pelican have the exhaust cam going on in different alignments. One says all the way to the left, the other in the center after the temp tensioner is in. I have two attachments that show what I mean. Only thing I can think of is that they both end up the same. Am I wrong about that? Would not be the first time, that's for sure. I just do not want to screw this step up.

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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #43  
Old 06-07-2015, 06:17 AM
MJB9 MJB9 is offline
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Did everyone use a socket? any luck using a wrench?
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  #44  
Old 06-08-2015, 06:10 AM
Silver-E39 Silver-E39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbennett9 View Post
Did everyone use a socket? any luck using a wrench?
I was able to use the fan clutch wrench to remove it from the engine. It was a little bit more tedious, but it worked. If you are going to go at it without a torque wrench, i suggest you mark the current position of the cap against the engine block with marker, and tighten it back to the same position later.
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  #45  
Old 06-09-2015, 07:01 PM
MJB9 MJB9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guaping View Post
Success! Thanks to Doru for initiating this DIY for us with I6 engines. Just wanted to confirm same steps and parts. In hindsight, we could have just changed the spring (and the washer) but I ordered all the parts anyway. I did "soak" the spring and the piston, which made the re-installation very tricky as it was very slippery. Attached are the pics of the new and old parts, plus the tools I used.
Did your piston look like it needed replacing? I was going to order spring and crush washer only. Not sure if a new piston offers any value?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-11311703747-1
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  #46  
Old 06-09-2015, 07:08 PM
MJB9 MJB9 is offline
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Location: Keller, TX (DFW)
 
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Mein Auto: 2002 525i (E39)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blight67 View Post
I just replaced the tensioner spring on my 2002 e39 M54 at 116k during a routine oil change. The procedure is simple as long as you have the proper tools. I used a 32mm socket purchased for about $4 from my local Harbor Freight and some extenders I had laying around

A couple of additional notes.
  1. The only tricky part of the entire procedure is applying sufficient pressure to the plunger against your new higher tension spring as you try to get the threads to match up.
  2. Per the TIS, the torque specs should be:
    Cylinder for chain tensioner plunger M50/M52/S52/S50 US M26 x 1.5: 70 Nm
    All others M26 x 1.5: 50 Nm <-- this is what I used for my M54
  3. The car had not shown any prior unusual sounds, but after the replacement, the car exhibited a rattle sound at idle. The sound was very similar to online samples of the Vanos rattle that I've heard. Although quite alarming (to the point that I had even considered reverting the change), the rattle disappeared after about 5 miles of driving.
  4. My new spring was about 5 mm longer than the original. This appears similar to what others have posted.
Maybe I missed it. I see M54 for 50nm here, but first page says 70nm. What did those with their M54 e39 use for torque?
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  #47  
Old 06-10-2015, 06:13 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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My 1998 528i with 150K...no noise, rattle. Smooth like silk.
So I am leaving it alone, unless some gurus tell me to replace it lol...
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  #48  
Old 06-10-2015, 07:58 AM
md-va md-va is offline
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Glad this got bumped up. I need to do this on my 530!
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  #49  
Old 07-06-2015, 03:15 PM
MJB9 MJB9 is offline
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Did mine. Took 5 to 7 minutes max. Used an 18" or 20" closed end wrench. one moderate tape of the hand and it was loose. It took the most time unscrewing it.

I didn't take pics as there's enough here (nothing new) and I have to do repairs at my apartment very quickly as they prohibit car repairs on premises.

My spring was at most 1/8" shorter. I did replace the piston, but there was no wear that I could see. For the $20 I didn't mind, if it was more I would have skipped it. But for those looking to do this, I say skip the piston and just do the spring and washer. Do NOT attempt to reuse the "crush" washer. It does just that--crushes on first use.

I did not see any improvement in my knocking so it's likely a sticky lifter. I was hoping it was a timing chain noise - I wouldn't know the difference. But it couldn't hurt to swap/replace it for a simple DIY.

Note. I did mine cold and with a full 6.9 qts oil still in the car. I had at most, 1oz of oil drip out.

Last edited by MJB9; 07-06-2015 at 03:17 PM.
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