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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-12-2011, 02:39 AM
ozibimmer ozibimmer is offline
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D.I.Y Repair Trunk/Boot Lock Spring

Hi Guys
Symptom of broken Sping and What to look for:
1/If you can't close the Trunk/Boot to the point of where the latch locks around the Hook and keeps the Trunk/Boot closed.
2/The latch is not firm and can flop around back and forth Your Spring is broken.

This is a very common problem with the E39 s I was told by a BMW Tech,
Yesterday I went to close my Trunk/Boot and it would not stay shut. It would not lock so I went to BMW and asked for the spring that attaches to the Lock Mechanism to keep the hook in place. Well they said $337.90 for the lock because the spring is part of the whole unit. I said G%$ F#@ked.
I went home and did a DIY on how to repair the lock yourself. Its a 15 minute job and you can get the spring at any hardware.
The hardest part is getting the plastic cover off the Trunk without breaking any of the clips. Just take your time and use a Clip tool or a large flat headed screw driver.
Tools you need.
1.Large flat headed screw driver.
2.Torx head for the 3 nuts that hold on the Lock.
3.Long Nose pliers
4. Small flat headed screwdriver

Okay
In the (1 picture) you have to remove the plastic cover the surrounds the lock.
There are 2 Clips that you can see and all you do is use a small flatheaded screwdriver and prior the head out and then remove the base of the clip. (it is 2 parts and very fragile)
Now take the large flat headed screw driver and slowly prior out the rest of the black plastic cover there are 4 more clips under the plastic cover that you can not see around the cover. Where the handle is that helps you to close the boot you have to carefully remove the cove and leave the handle attached to the trunk and don't try to pull it off or you will break it. Just work the cover off around the handle.

Once you get the cover off you will see 3 Torx headed screws you have to take off.
(See Picture 2).

Now remove the Torx screws and the lock will come out easy.
Then unplug the power plug that is attached to the lock.(See Picture 3)

The unit will now come out but just take the lock unit off the Metal hook that connects to the main lock.(Picture 4)

The spring should just fall out at this point if its has not already so keep a look out because you need it to match up a new spring at your hardware.
(picture 5)

Now use the new spring and install it as I have in (Picture 6)

Now just reverse the above procedure and test your new lock and your done.

Here is a great link if you need to Replace the Trunk Lock Actuator on an e39 and its not the spring http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/t...20actuator.htm
If you have any questions please let me know.
Hope this helps someone
Cheers
Addam
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Last edited by ozibimmer; 07-12-2011 at 04:53 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-12-2011, 03:01 AM
porksoda porksoda is offline
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just fyi lot many times when the trunk lid does not close the actual problem is broken wires going through a rubber gasket that get broken and short and unlock the drunk.

If your trunk still comes undone while driving or randomly check the wires... do a search to find info.
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2011, 07:30 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porksoda View Post
the actual problem is broken wires going through a rubber gasket that get broken and short and unlock the drunk
Doing a /trunk search in the bestlinks finds this common problem with the trunk wiring loom:
- Trunklid open, check licplate light, and other trunk wiring loom woes (1) (2) (3)
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  #4  
Old 07-12-2011, 09:47 AM
vetaldj vetaldj is offline
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Great DIY!

I did it awaile ago but used old spring... Where did you get new one? Did dealer sold you just spring?

Thanks!
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  #5  
Old 07-12-2011, 10:58 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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He implied that he got the spring at a hardware store.
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  #6  
Old 07-12-2011, 11:01 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Thanks for this DIY.

Another person posted something similar before, but thanks for this nice DIY anyway, many people will find this useful!
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2011, 04:37 PM
ozibimmer ozibimmer is offline
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You are all welcome.
I bought the spring from a hardware shop here in Australia.
I spent nearly a hour looking over fuses and wires before doing a google search and finding it may be the spring, I have added a symptom of to the post.
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  #8  
Old 10-07-2011, 01:24 PM
rosst rosst is offline
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Thanks for the DIY! I bought the Torx driver (T30 x4")for about $7 (too much) and the spring cost $1.07 at the hardware store. Job took fifteen minutes.

Cheers!

Last edited by rosst; 10-07-2011 at 01:26 PM.
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  #9  
Old 10-07-2011, 05:40 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I added this to the bestlinks just now ... so that others benefit ...

- How to repair your frayed trunk wiring loom (1) & an easy fix for your trunk latch (1) & a trunk lock actuator DIY (1) & how to replace your trunk shock absorber struts (1) & how to repair a broken trunk boot lock spring (1) & proper identification & location of relays in the trunk compartment & location of the fuel pump relay K96 (1) & how to open the hood (1) or boot manually when you have a dead 12v car battery (1) (2) & how to unlock the older E39 if the key is locked inside the trunk (1) (2)
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  #10  
Old 10-07-2011, 05:56 PM
Quick99Si Quick99Si is offline
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Another cause may be poorly adjusted stoppers and/or catch for the trunk. I swapped trunks on my car a few days ago, keeping my original trim and electrical components. Both the old and new trunks were tough to close yet the springs on both actuators were in visually good shape.

The fix involved adjusting:
1. The hook on the car. It slides up/down at an angle and is held by two torx screws.
2. The rubber stoppers on the car as well. These are used to align the trunk to the quarter panels for flush body lines, but if yours is out alignment, it'll cause the same symptoms.

Lots of closing, adjusting, opening, and re-adjusting got me back to happy with the trunk
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  #11  
Old 05-26-2012, 08:12 AM
muergo muergo is offline
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Thanks a zillion to Beemer spring sufferers in California and Australia, my 535i had exactly same problem and thanks to you lot I've fixed it using the old spring but bending out an extra loop, I hope it holds.

Not being mean cos I bought a box of 150 assorted springs and not ONE of them was the same size.

Anyway just finished putting back trim on a blazing hot day 30C in Old Windsor Berkshire, England, at least the temperature makes it easier to manipulate plastics easily.

So now can go to supermarket car park without worrying about boot contents being stolen.

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  #12  
Old 08-05-2012, 01:36 PM
JGarrison JGarrison is offline
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Spring Repair

Both the Trunk Lock Actuator and the spring were gone in my '97. I found the spring at Ace Hardware for $0.70 and completed the repair in 10 minutes. With the spring replaced, the trunk will close and the key will open.

I will replace the Actuator soon. Thanks for the great post.
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2012, 06:02 PM
AH673000 AH673000 is offline
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Ditto here .... Found a DIY and made repair in friends driveway in 15 minutes. Just used the old spring and bent it a bit on the broken end . Still working one year later.
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2012, 02:24 AM
muergo muergo is offline
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As I said in previous message, I bent end of spring to get fresh coil but unfortunately it has only lasted a couple of weeks and now it's pinged off disappeared into the bootlid somewhere I can't see. Hunting hardware stores, not many around these days, maybe plumbing supermarkets etc to find a component with similar spring. I'll tell you if I find a substitute, but my Beemer is off road with Two thousand POUNDS worth of cam tensioner repairs so boot lid is least of my concerns.
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  #15  
Old 08-13-2012, 10:49 AM
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shaftdrive shaftdrive is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muergo View Post
but my Beemer is off road with Two thousand POUNDS worth of cam tensioner repairs so boot lid is least of my concerns.
What model beemer do you ride?
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2012, 11:42 AM
muergo muergo is offline
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My 535iMSport is nearly finished and bill has risen to 3,000, for new hydraulic chain tensioner and plastic chain guiedes plus other extras, so I am dearly waiting to get it back tomorrow as I have suffered having to drive lesser machines, and I mean suffer, my bent scoliotic back needs the Sport seat and I am fed up with changing gear and having to carefully judge manoevres when I know that my V8 would have zapped me out of danger.
I am approaching seventy and really need that machine to keep me sane, I wish I could register it as an invalid carriage.
Waiting for news on insurance renewal, I know it'll go up next birthday but now I have a clean licence (10yrs) and a max no claims I should manage to keep it below 300.

I've put another spring on the boot latch, after cannibalising different bits and pieces, this time I've held it in with duct tape so if it pings off again I won't have lost it.
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  #17  
Old 08-13-2012, 02:06 PM
lagganbass lagganbass is offline
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Trunk Latch Repair

Followed ozibimmer instructions repair took 20 minutes.Thanks for the information.
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  #18  
Old 08-13-2012, 05:17 PM
ozibimmer ozibimmer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muergo View Post
As I said in previous message, I bent end of spring to get fresh coil but unfortunately it has only lasted a couple of weeks and now it's pinged off disappeared into the bootlid somewhere I can't see. Hunting hardware stores, not many around these days, maybe plumbing supermarkets etc to find a component with similar spring. I'll tell you if I find a substitute, but my Beemer is off road with Two thousand POUNDS worth of cam tensioner repairs so boot lid is least of my concerns.
PM me your address and I will send you a few
Addam
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  #19  
Old 08-14-2012, 12:29 AM
muergo muergo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozibimmer View Post
PM me your address and I will send you a few
Addam
I'm not familiar with this site systems, how do I send you my address privately?
Thank you for your offer, I am still nervous about the spring bodge up I've done, will put it back on car when I hopefully get it back today after three weeks off road.
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  #20  
Old 08-15-2012, 03:55 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozibimmer View Post
PM me your address and I will send you a few
Addam
Could you take few measurements of the spring so I could source a suitable replacement? E53 owner found a suitable replacement from www.mcmaster.com p/n 9432K32. Would that same work for E39 or any other spring at the list? I live in Finland (europe) so shipping would probably be quite expensive..
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  #21  
Old 08-18-2012, 01:31 AM
muergo muergo is offline
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Smile Back,up and running

Quote:
Originally Posted by ozibimmer View Post
PM me your address and I will send you a few
Addam
There's no reply from site or yourself as to how I send my address under cover, I am happy to say that botched spring is holding up for now, but really would like a proper spare.

The Beast is back on the road after a load of dosh and holdups due to BMW shipping the wrong parts to my garage, but seemingly OK now except I am not happy that timing has been set correctly, is this possible with Vanos system?
The fuel consumption is considerably poorer than before and I can only think that timing is the reason as nothing else has been touched.
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2012, 05:00 PM
z_driver z_driver is offline
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Great trick.

Trunk wouldn't latch properly. Took it apart**. Saw the spring was broken. Re-bent a new hooked end on the spring. Good as new.

**Just for the record, didn't have the T-27 to remove the latch so used a 4mm allen wrench instead. Fit snug.
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  #23  
Old 11-12-2012, 06:38 PM
muergo muergo is offline
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Question Keep an eye on it

Quote:
Originally Posted by z_driver View Post
Trunk wouldn't latch properly. Took it apart**. Saw the spring was broken. Re-bent a new hooked end on the spring. Good as new.

**Just for the record, didn't have the T-27 to remove the latch so used a 4mm allen wrench instead. Fit snug.
I thought that this would work but either I didn't unwind sufficient coil or the tempering of spring was faulty but my unwound coil remedy broke again .
I had to cannibalise a cheap tool with a similar spring.
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  #24  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:20 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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when my 10 years old trunk latch failed i just replaced it
cost me $90 in parts , my labor is too much expensive to do it twice
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Last edited by champaign777; 11-12-2012 at 08:22 PM.
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  #25  
Old 11-13-2012, 06:45 AM
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BentValve BentValve is offline
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I was able to find the spring at my local hardware store for .06 cents. I bought 2. I thought about re-bending the old sprint but in the end, it would still be the 12 year old spring.
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