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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #26  
Old 05-08-2012, 05:11 PM
rs0xn rs0xn is offline
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Mein Auto: 2011 X5 3.5d
I thought I'd post some photos of the hitch I installed. If your contemplating on which hitch to get, The Draw-Tite, Reece and Hidden Hitch are identical. I got the Draw-Tite 75600. Mine actually had a sticker with both logos on it. Like others have said, the powder coat can chip, so first thing I did was coated the entire hitch with 1 Qt. Herculiner Bed Liner, a few coats are needed. If your worried about long term use and rust, coat it with a rubber compound. Installation took 1/2 day. Hardest part was removing and re-installing the fascia. This was because of not knowing how it was attached. I had to trim a 2"x8" of the lower fascia. Total costs were 1/5 of the dealership. Everything works with rear sensors and the tow screw attachments are still available. The backup camera works fine, no coding needed, plus the hitch isn't visible in the rear camera, so no annoying beeping when in reverse.

I also bought the Upgraded Heavy Duty Modulite Circuit Protected Wiring Kit. I ran the electrical through a small punch out hole under the passengers tail light where the rear sensor wires are run. The Modulite was mounted near the fuse panel, passenger side. There's two options for wiring the trailer lights. 1st option - run the trailer wires directly into the fuse box, search online for wiring diagrams, you'll need to unscrew the panel, this option gives each wire a separate fuse. 2nd option is to tap into the rear blinker lights with the provided wiring connectors. The Upgraded Heavy Duty Modulite safeguards itself and the BMW against harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations. Automatically self resets
and virtually eliminates draw on the X5's taillight circuit.
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2011 BMW X5 3.5d (Sport Activity Pkg, 19" Y-Spoke Wheels, Premium Pkg, Technology Pkg) 3M CS20 Window Tint
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  #27  
Old 05-08-2012, 05:18 PM
PurPlazur's Avatar
PurPlazur PurPlazur is offline
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Good job!
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  #28  
Old 05-09-2012, 08:47 AM
sredhar sredhar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurPlazur View Post
step 7: Yes. The tabs under the taillight. Push the tab down then pull the bumper towards the back so the tab don't re-clip themselves.

step 8: Start with the rear pin first them move forward towards the wheel. Once you push the tab, keep the side of the bumper away from the truck a bit so it does not re-clip.

Hope this helps!


Thank you. I was able to take the bumper off and fix the hitch. There were a couple of small plastic tabs which were holding the bumper, above the rear reinforcement and that took some more time to figure out. I will take pictures and post them here shortly.

Now off to put everyting back together
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  #29  
Old 05-09-2012, 08:53 AM
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PurPlazur PurPlazur is offline
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Right on. Looking forward to the pics.
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Present: 2010 Audi A4 2.0T
Present: 2001 Honda VFR 800 Interceptor
Present: 2002 Kawasaki ZX-6
Present: 1998 Suzuki GSX-R 750 (Track)
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  #30  
Old 05-13-2012, 08:27 PM
sredhar sredhar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurPlazur View Post
Right on. Looking forward to the pics.
So finally the OEM hitch install is complete. it looks me a lot of time (I do not want to admit how long it took), but it is finally done.

Below is a link with pics of the issue I had when removing the bumper. After step 8, there were four more plastic tabs to press while removing the bumper.

http://imgur.com/a/GpnA6#0

I also had comfort access and had to reroute the wire back to the fuse panel area. I had to cut the rubber hose (which plugs to the body) a little bit and put duct tape so the comfort access plug can go inside.

I will put together a doc with the steps listed in the first post and post it here soon.

P.S - I tried to use a trailer today and looks like the X5 recognized there was a trailer attached since it was complaining about the trailer brake lamp. I am not sure if programming is needed at this point, but I will find out soon.
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  #31  
Old 05-16-2012, 07:03 AM
m3the01 m3the01 is offline
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Mein Auto: '12 X5-35d AW-CI
Quote:
Originally Posted by sredhar View Post
I also had comfort access and had to reroute the wire back to the fuse panel area. I had to cut the rubber hose (which plugs to the body) a little bit and put duct tape so the comfort access plug can go inside.
I believe you only have to do that step if you dont have an open weather sealed plug. Most 2012 diesels only use the outer plug for both comfort access and PDC. This leaves one plug for the trailer wiring hardness and plug,

I did the install last night, the cutting was a little bit more difficult than i expected. I tried to cut minimally though,

In the future i would suggest making sure you have a good place to rest the bumper to protect it while cutting and a helper would have been great as i almost had a heart attach when i saw the bumper under the fender flare when i was reinstalling; luckily the bumper wasnt scratched.

cheers,
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Last edited by m3the01; 05-16-2012 at 12:25 PM.
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  #32  
Old 05-16-2012, 09:06 AM
sredhar sredhar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3the01 View Post
I believe you only have to do that step if you dont have an open weather sealed plug. Most 2012 diesels only use the outer plug for both comfort access and PDC. This leaves one plug for the trailer wiring hardness and plug,

I did the install last night, the cutting was a little bit more difficult than i expected. I tried to cut minimally though,

In the future i would suggest making sure you have a good place to rest the bumper to protect it while cutting and a helped would have been great as i almost had a heart attach when i saw the bumper under the fender flare when i was reinstalling; luckily the bumper wasnt scratched.

cheers,


Not sure what a open weather sealed plug is. Do you have a X5D as well?
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  #33  
Old 05-16-2012, 12:24 PM
m3the01 m3the01 is offline
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Mein Auto: '12 X5-35d AW-CI
Quote:
Originally Posted by sredhar View Post
Not sure what a open weather sealed plug is. Do you have a X5D as well?
Yes '12 x5 35d, on the passenger side rear where u fed the wires into the cabin to reach the fuse box.

The new '12 have both the PDC and comfort access going through the same weather sealed plug. This leaves one access hole available and this is where u put the new trailer harness rubber connector... weather sealed plug ;-)

No need to fish the comfort access cable out...
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  #34  
Old 05-16-2012, 01:16 PM
sredhar sredhar is offline
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Location: NJ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3the01 View Post
Yes '12 x5 35d, on the passenger side rear where u fed the wires into the cabin to reach the fuse box.

The new '12 have both the PDC and comfort access going through the same weather sealed plug. This leaves one access hole available and this is where u put the new trailer harness rubber connector... weather sealed plug ;-)

No need to fish the comfort access cable out...


True. I had one access hole available as well and that's where I put the trailer harness.

But, there is a step in the install doc (step 19 from the aug 2010 install doc), where you have to connect the comfort access cable which was disconnected to the trailer wiring harness, plug 5 (2 pin Receptacle (Blue/Gray, Blue/Yellow) - Connect to vehicle Comfort Access. antenna harness.)

For that I had to fish the comfort access cable back into the fuse panel.


What did you do for that step?
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  #35  
Old 05-16-2012, 04:01 PM
sredhar sredhar is offline
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Location: NJ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3the01 View Post
Yes '12 x5 35d, on the passenger side rear where u fed the wires into the cabin to reach the fuse box.

The new '12 have both the PDC and comfort access going through the same weather sealed plug. This leaves one access hole available and this is where u put the new trailer harness rubber connector... weather sealed plug ;-)

No need to fish the comfort access cable out...


Also, when you installed the tap connector did you have to cut the wire? I did not for mine and I am having problems with it.

Thank you.
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  #36  
Old 06-04-2012, 09:24 AM
lovmac lovmac is offline
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Thanks for the tutorial, it helped me a lot.

two additions that may help someone down the road:

1. when you need to find the tabs in step 8, you can use a credit card/hotel key type plastic rather than a knife.

2. if your vehicle is equipped with PDC sensors, you will want to relocate the female socket because otherwise your bumper will not fit back together. Note that you can still install the hitch, torque it to spec, etc. but when you go to install the bumper one of the six screws on the bottom will not align. Trust me on this one.

To relocate it, twist the socket one-quarter turn clockwise and pull towards you (when looking at the vehicle from the back.)
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  #37  
Old 06-26-2012, 10:37 AM
kweese kweese is offline
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Mein Auto: X5 35D
HI GUys ,

I'm trying to install the Hidden hitch Wiring Harness. Problem is I've pulled the harness through the passenger side. I'm wondering what the PIN #'s are for the Passenger side rear Light. I've looked at the PINS and there are 6 PINS on the connector, 5 of them are wired one is empty on both sides. On the Driver side, the PIN that is blank is #1 and on the Passenger it is #6.
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  #38  
Old 06-26-2012, 08:00 PM
kweese kweese is offline
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Failed install

Ok. So I tried hooking the trailer up using these PINS on the Passenger Brake Light.
PIN 4 - BRAKE
PIN 3 FLASH RIGHT
PIN 2 LIGHTS.

I went to UHAUL to buy my hitch ball and the guy tested it with his HITCH TESTING tool with LED lights and said it was fine. So... I drive an hour away to purchase a Wells Cargo (2011) Enclosed Trailer. And it doesnt work. The Wells Cargo has LED lights as well. What did I do wrong?
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  #39  
Old 07-16-2012, 09:06 AM
jrhhunter jrhhunter is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 X5 4.4i
Quote:
Originally Posted by sredhar View Post
True. I had one access hole available as well and that's where I put the trailer harness.

But, there is a step in the install doc (step 19 from the aug 2010 install doc), where you have to connect the comfort access cable which was disconnected to the trailer wiring harness, plug 5 (2 pin Receptacle (Blue/Gray, Blue/Yellow) - Connect to vehicle Comfort Access. antenna harness.)

For that I had to fish the comfort access cable back into the fuse panel.


What did you do for that step?

I have a 2012 35d with only one access hole occupied. Do I still need to hook up the 2 pin Receptacle (blue/gray, blue/yellow)? (It is unattached, unused at this point) I do not know what I would hook it too. Since, I did not have to disconnect anything on the original PDC cable, I just left it intact and ran the new harness into the available access hole. I have taken the X5 in to the dealer for coding, so I do not know whether I missed a hookup or not. Any info is appreciated. (Hopefully, I do ot have to remove the fascia to hook something up!).
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  #40  
Old 07-31-2012, 01:54 PM
sredhar sredhar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhhunter View Post
I have a 2012 35d with only one access hole occupied. Do I still need to hook up the 2 pin Receptacle (blue/gray, blue/yellow)? (It is unattached, unused at this point) I do not know what I would hook it too. Since, I did not have to disconnect anything on the original PDC cable, I just left it intact and ran the new harness into the available access hole. I have taken the X5 in to the dealer for coding, so I do not know whether I missed a hookup or not. Any info is appreciated. (Hopefully, I do ot have to remove the fascia to hook something up!).
Sorry I just saw this. Is the issue fixed?
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  #41  
Old 08-01-2012, 07:32 PM
BryanCO BryanCO is offline
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Good thread!

After reading this and other threads, I decided to go with the OEM hitch. Factoring in hitch cost, delivery (if applicable) and tax (if applicable) and discounts (such as BMWCCA), my local dealer was the best deal I found at $600 for the hitch package and trim piece. I used the installation instructions (found on this site!) to have the dealer match the recommend install and coding time of 2.5hrs. So total install and coding cost was $287. At that price and considering that was likely going to take it to,the dealer for coding, it didn't make since for a DIY.
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  #42  
Old 08-02-2012, 08:22 AM
rodnjen rodnjen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanCO View Post
Good thread!

After reading this and other threads, I decided to go with the OEM hitch. Factoring in hitch cost, delivery (if applicable) and tax (if applicable) and discounts (such as BMWCCA), my local dealer was the best deal I found at $600 for the hitch package and trim piece. I used the installation instructions (found on this site!) to have the dealer match the recommend install and coding time of 2.5hrs. So total install and coding cost was $287. At that price and considering that was likely going to take it to,the dealer for coding, it didn't make since for a DIY.
I have been quoted $1,550 from the local BMW dealer where I purchased the car. This is total B.S. but good for you.
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  #43  
Old 11-20-2012, 09:44 PM
mgarciah mgarciah is offline
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Hi.

I have a question, first Thanks a lot for this post I just finished to installed my invisihitch but Im having troubles with my OEM harness, I installed all as directed, I found in my car the CAN connector at the left side (latin American version), not right so I loose the wraps and took the connector back until I could reach my OEM harness CAN connector, now all is installed but I have no lights, it is required to be coded by the dealer to activate the lights??

Thanks
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  #44  
Old 11-21-2012, 05:19 AM
PurPlazur's Avatar
PurPlazur PurPlazur is offline
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Location: Montreal
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarciah View Post
Hi.

I have a question, first Thanks a lot for this post I just finished to installed my invisihitch but Im having troubles with my OEM harness, I installed all as directed, I found in my car the CAN connector at the left side (latin American version), not right so I loose the wraps and took the connector back until I could reach my OEM harness CAN connector, now all is installed but I have no lights, it is required to be coded by the dealer to activate the lights??

Thanks
I don't know about the OEM connector. I did not use it. What I do know however is that the truck needs to run in order to provide power to lights.

C.
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  #45  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:20 PM
skyhome skyhome is offline
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Used the instruction for my 2013 x5. My local BMW dealer sold me rivet for $3 each. The problem is I don't know hot to install those rivets, any tool should I used? Thanks
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  #46  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:43 PM
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PurPlazur PurPlazur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyhome View Post
Used the instruction for my 2013 x5. My local BMW dealer sold me rivet for $3 each. The problem is I don't know hot to install those rivets, any tool should I used? Thanks
I used a regular pop rivet gun. The rivet seems to break early but don't worry, it will hold.
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  #47  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:48 PM
skyhome skyhome is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurPlazur View Post
I used a regular pop rivet gun. The rivet seems to break early but don't worry, it will hold.
Thanks. Will pick one from homedepot tomorrow.
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  #48  
Old 02-08-2013, 02:24 PM
troymi troymi is offline
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OEM Harness Coding?

So, I'm about to enter this hitch world. Question: for a '12 X5 35d, if I use the OEM harness does the vehicle have to be coded at the dealer?

If yes, I'm thinking of just going with the aftermarket as others. Thanks.
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  #49  
Old 02-08-2013, 08:56 PM
mgarciah mgarciah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troymi View Post
So, I'm about to enter this hitch world. Question: for a '12 X5 35d, if I use the OEM harness does the vehicle have to be coded at the dealer?

If yes, I'm thinking of just going with the aftermarket as others. Thanks.
Basically yes, your OEM installation can work without coding but there is a chance that your trailer braking lights wont work, in this case coding for US would be required, but coding your OEM harness gives you some nice features, that are not available with a aftermarket installation, if you have rear camera you will have the zoom function available so it can help not only to look for your trailer but to park is usefull, also there are some things that change in your car, the RPMs are handled differently and I think there also a change in the traction system, I think it worth for what you receive, but this depends, of course, on your dealer prices.
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  #50  
Old 03-05-2013, 02:17 PM
wblume wblume is offline
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Coding OEM HITCH

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue dragon View Post
I purchased my OEM hitch from getbmwparts.com for less than $500. It came with the hitch module and harness. I installed it myself, and to I'd much rather have the OEM parts than an aftermarket hitch. The OEM hitch harness will allow the computer to check the trailer for burned out bulbs and turn off the rear PDC when the hitch wiring harness is plugged it. It will also give you an additional zoom mode on the camera (great for lining up the hitch when backing up), and DSC anti sway control.

Considering that the difference in price is so small, I'd much rather use the OEM components, especially since I am towing 6k lbs. Oh, I can also do the programming myself Good work installing your hitch though. I really applaud people who tackle projects like this on their own.
Hi Blue Dragon,

I have purchased and installed my OEM hitch for a 2012 X5. I have been able to change the VO to include +AHMU, but couldn't include it in the FRM module, came up with a coapi error. So I am currently downloading latest software INPA, NCS, Ediabas 2012 (I hope). Could you please tell me what I need to program and how?

Cheers
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