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E63 / E64 6 Series (2003 - 2013)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2011, 01:43 PM
Tosh.645ci Tosh.645ci is offline
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Valve cover gasket question

Hi, I'm planning on changing my valve cover gasket this weekend and I have all the tools and materials ready. I've done my research and feel confident I can do this project successfully. I just wanted to know if anyone knows the correct torque for the bolts. I know the criss cross tightening pattern however I still can't figure out what the correct torque for the bolts are. Anyone have any insight?
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2011, 02:17 PM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Surprisingly the TIS does not give the values in the valve cover document (normally they provide a link to torque values), you need to go into the tightening specs area to find the values. And over there they just give a value for each screw type.

I've attached the instructions and torque specs from my local copy of the TIS.

FYI 645Ci and 650i have identical instructions.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 650i_Valve Cover Removal N62TU.pdf (822.9 KB, 1403 views)
File Type: pdf 650i_AZD Cylinder Head with Cover.pdf (7.0 KB, 525 views)
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Last edited by Yorgi; 07-15-2011 at 02:21 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2011, 07:20 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Be careful getting the valve covers off. They will be stuck pretty hard. There are 2 Eccentric Shaft sensors on the back. It you lift the valve cover up from front to back, you can break a sensor. They cost 480.00 list price. Once again, be careful with these sensors. If you need any help, I will be glad to offer you any advice. Be prepared for 8 to 12 hours work! I would suggest changing the timing cover gaskets while you are act it. Make sure you have both male & female torx sockets, you will need both.

Good Luck
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  #4  
Old 07-18-2011, 11:07 AM
Tosh.645ci Tosh.645ci is offline
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Thnx guys. I appreciate all the advice. I decided not to change the valve cover gasket yet. I think I'm going to do the timing cover gasket as well. So I need to gather some more stuff, do a bit more research, and I'll change both while I'm in there. I'll keep you all posted.
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  #5  
Old 07-18-2011, 03:45 PM
Tosh.645ci Tosh.645ci is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
Be careful getting the valve covers off. They will be stuck pretty hard. There are 2 Eccentric Shaft sensors on the back. It you lift the valve cover up from front to back, you can break a sensor.

Good Luck
I was going to use a rubber mallet and whack it to help break the seal. Any advise against this? How would you advise I get the valve cover off. Straight upward and off or back to front? The TIS doesn't specify a particular way to lift the covers off.
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  #6  
Old 07-18-2011, 07:37 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I used a small flat pry bar, & worked carefully around the corners. There is 1 bolt on the very back of the valve cover, that is kind of hard to get to. You will have a very hard time getting the valve covers off, if you do not remove the center section on the firewall. On the driver side, you will have to remove the fuel line & injectors. be very careful with the 2 vent tubes, that go to the front of the valve covers. The will most likely break getting them off. The heat takes a toll on them.

Good Luck!
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  #7  
Old 07-19-2011, 11:18 AM
Tosh.645ci Tosh.645ci is offline
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are these the timing cover gaskets? all 3 of them?

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
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  #8  
Old 07-19-2011, 12:23 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Just get the top 2. The bottom one will require the engine to come out. They are cheap at your local BMW store. Should be no more than 30.00 for both!
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  #9  
Old 07-19-2011, 01:14 PM
Tosh.645ci Tosh.645ci is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbP View Post
Just get the top 2. The bottom one will require the engine to come out. They are cheap at your local BMW store. Should be no more than 30.00 for both!
K thnx
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:01 AM
Medicus Medicus is offline
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I am just starting to do my research now I have to change my valve cover gaskets this weekend for sure judging but the constant stream of oil coming out. How much harder is it to replace the timing gaskets? It looks like you need to move a lot of hoses in order to get to all the bolts. I am not sure that I need the timing gaskets yet but the oil is coming from the corner of the valve cover and timing cover (appears from valve cover only). I want to be prepared to do all the work in case I have to fix it all. I will be working in a shop on a military base so the planning and time is very important.
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  #11  
Old 11-01-2012, 12:14 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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The valve cover gaskets are around an 8 hour job. The 2 top timing cover gaskets add around an additional 2 hours. When removing the valve covers, be careful not to damage the 2 rear cam sensors. The firewall center piece must be removed to get the valve covers off. Make sure to replace the 2 cam sensor o-rings while the valve cover is off. Below is a link in case you need it. Have a magnet available if you drop any bolts!

Good Luck!


http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/45/43
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2012, 03:42 AM
Medicus Medicus is offline
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Hey guys I started working on the vehicle today my plans were to do the valve cover gaskets, timing cover gasket, and the alternator bracket gasket. As of right now I have worked on the vehicle for approximately 3 hours and have Been able to take off the driver side valve cover gasket and started working on the timing cover gasket. I have been running into a problem locating an easy way to get out the fifth bolt on the timing cover gasket. It appears that the bolt is located behind the alternator bracket. Is there an easy way to get this out without removing the alternator bracket or do I need to remove the alternator bracket in order to get out the last bolt on the timing cover. It seems like I am doing something wrong because everywhere I see it only calls for approximately 2 hours to replace the timing cover gaskets. I think what I am going to do tomorrow is start working on the alternator bracket to completely free up that area and see if I can get to the bolt on the timing cover gasket easier. Any advice would be helpful thanks.
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  #13  
Old 11-03-2012, 07:15 AM
houbmw-cm houbmw-cm is offline
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I replied to your post int he other thread. Hopefully the reply will help you out.

Good luck.
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2012, 10:29 AM
Medicus Medicus is offline
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Yes thank you you are a lifesaver
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  #15  
Old 11-03-2012, 06:03 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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If you plan on replacing the alternator bracket gasket, go ahead & remove the alternator bracket. That is the hard part of getting to the o-ring. I don't think that you have to remove the alternator bracket, to get the timing cover off? I think that 1 bolt is hidden very well, that you might have missed.
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  #16  
Old 11-04-2012, 10:37 AM
Medicus Medicus is offline
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In order to get The timing cover gasket off on the driver side I had to remove the alternator. I might have been able to get away with just unbolting the alternator, but I was having difficulties getting to the bolt so I took it out. I figured that since I was doing the alternator bracket I needed to take the alternator out anyways And this saved me some time. Yesterday I got the driver side valve cover and timing cover gasket completed and started working on the passenger side valve cover gasket. All that I have left on the passenger side is to put the sensors back in and put the bmw covers back on. You guys weren't joking when you said that the driver side is the worst valve cover gasket to do. I don't know if it was because I was going slow or not but the driver side took me approximately 5 hours to do. I have been working on the passenger side for approximately an hour and 15 minutes and it's almost done. So far I am sitting at about nine hours of work with roughly a half an hour of set up time for the last two days. Today I am going to finish up the valve cover gaskets and start working on the alternator bracket. I will let you guys know how things worked out. Thanks again
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Last edited by Medicus; 11-04-2012 at 10:41 AM.
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  #17  
Old 11-04-2012, 10:57 AM
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pablo645 pablo645 is offline
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I'm following your trail Medicus . Lots of work getting the gaskets done but you are gaining some valuable DIY knowledge. I wouldn't worry too much about the time it's taking you but making sure you do it right and making sure you replace all that you can replace while having it apart. This is your first time doing it so take your time and let us know how this turns out.
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  #18  
Old 11-04-2012, 02:27 PM
Medicus Medicus is offline
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I cant seem to get the power steering pump to come loose. I took the 2 bolts off in the front but it seems like it is still bolted in. Need advice
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  #19  
Old 11-04-2012, 05:59 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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There is a allen head bolt up under the back side of the pump. If you raise the motor & remove the alternator, you can get to it a lot better. It is really hidden!
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2012, 06:57 AM
Medicus Medicus is offline
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Well I had to give up on the alternator bracket for a little bit because I was running out of time before I had to go back to work. I had a little issue with the driver side valve cover not seating right so I had to re do it. As of right now it looks like I have to replace the vacuum pump o-ring and just burn off some oil that shot out from the first time I started it. I pulled out my helmet camera to look down into the engine bay and it appears that the valve cover gaskets are doing okay and that it is just oil around the exhaust smoking. I never had a smoking problem so I am really hoping that there isn't something else wrong that I did during the change. I haven't driven it much because I am also getting a code p0393 which was an issue before the change. The car still runs good under normal driving conditions its only at low idle when it messes up.
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  #21  
Old 02-14-2014, 10:32 AM
cessna823 cessna823 is offline
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BMW 750Li 4.8 Liter Valve Cover Leaks Gasket Seal Replacement.

Please Note: I Replace right Side Left Side New Valve Covers.
Please Note: I Replace All 8 Spark Plug Tubes With New Spark Plug Tubes
Please Note: I Replace 4 Cam Sensors 2 On Each Valve Cover" With New Seals"

Depending on Miles May Be Good Time to Install New Spark Plugs And Coil Packs.... This one had 92,000 miles So 8 New Plugs.

NOTE NOTE NOTE - Warped Valve Covers - Major Cause Of Leak : http://www.fcpeuro.com/ - Purchase Valve Covers From fcpeuro.com

Note: Remove The center engine cover and Looking at your Plastic valve covers pop off the right and left side Valve cover facial covers, now on the drivers side Valve cover left side rear move your fingers slowly where the valve cover sits on the head….....Can you feel the gasket ..?? The Gasket is a Rubber seal TAKE NOTE: These plastic Valve Covers Warp….....there are 4 spark plugs tubes between the covers and the heads and the covers sitting on these tubes help cause the Warping ..

Take Note: Looking at the valve covers Bolts"..2 center by vanos piston and the 2 bolts with half moon notch on the heads These Bolts have to return back to where they removed from because the stops on them are different sizes to keep from cracking valve cover and insure the lower side of the valve covers will seal tight against the heads.

Caution – tighten valve covers bolts in Multiple steps torque sequence

Up on replacement with new valve cover I set the new valve cover on head then from the top center of valve cover installed the new bolts and Lock seals just getting them started then the long front bolts then the 1 rear bolt that hides back at the cam sensors.
Now take one of the old top bolts with the half moon and get the bolt started center of lower side of the cover….....began to tighten the bolts Keeping in mind the Spark Plug tubes are holding the valve cover up and will set and seal as you tighten bolts in sequence starting from the center then out toward the ends.. Began to install new lower Valve cover bolts, when the valve cover spark plug tubes are seats into valve cover enough to allow lower bolts to reach and grab the studs threading….....Remember to Remove and replace the old half moon bolt you install on lower side of valve cover we use for valve cover with spark plug tube seating ..replace with new bolt and seal with shorter stop shank.

Take Note": This is not a fun job to do so I would Purchase new Valve Covers and New Spark Plug Tubes and when installation I used see through coat of lithium grease on the seals of the spark plug tubes and made sure there sitting completely in the head on reassembly. Also wiggle each spark plug tube when setting the new valve covers back on head to insure the tubes are aligning with new valve covers..



Disconnect Battery neg. terminal

Remove the Engine covers

Remove the Cabin Air Filters Covers

There is a metal Flex Lock on top of the inlet ducks use crow foot and release ducks from firewall.

Remove the rear center cross over 2 - 10 mm bolts left and right side

Remove the plastic locking seat 1 – 10 mm bolt from right passenger side Cabin air filter lock tab ….....this is sitting over main wire harness box.

Remove the main wire harness box cover

Pull up on the main wire harness allowing you to move the wires to firewall

Remove the 2 torex bolts from center engine cover mounts, this will allow more travel for main wire harness to firewall use a bungee cord to hold out of way of valve cover ..

Remove the 2 cam sensor Male torxe screws and wiggle sensors our of cover

Remove 2 Screws holding plate on eccentric sensor remove the plate.

Stop--------------------------------Vanos Piston Removal-------------------

Mark the vanos piston and mount with marker or paint for reassembly 2 half's

Loosen 4 Allen bolts slowly there is pressure on piston

Hold down on piston when removing last Allen bolt then slowly lift then it will click releasing tension

There is a seal ring for Piston to mount seating I apply lithium grease reassembly

Remove the 4 toreax screws from Vanos piston mount and lift mount off valve cover up out of seal.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Remove the right / left engine air filters and 2 screws from the Ducking now remove Ducking.

Remove 2 Screws from the Antifreeze overfill bottle lift up to release from wheel well

Remove the large Vacuum line off Air pump right front of head going to Power Brake Booster Diaphragm .

Got to Left side back at power brake booster there is a cover 2 torex screws holding this cover keeping this vacuum line in channel support Remove.

Unlock this Vacuum line from power steering reservoir bottle and remove this vacuum line from car

Remove the Vacuum line from the Throttle body that travel to secondary air up over the power steering reservoir ..

Remove the 2 – 10 mm bolts holding the power steering Reservoir freeing the Bottle from mount.

Right side passenger unplug the coil packs and using flat edge unlock the harness and move harness over the engine

Loosen the ABS Pump

Remove 4 coil packs from cover there tight so take your time may need to move Abs Pump

Now Take your time…......The essentric Sensor stick up out of Valve cover back at cam sensors.
Remove the Valve cover bolts Keep in mind you have the 10 mm bolt that is back at the cam sensor

All bolts Removed wiggle and lift and wiggle valve covers up off spark plug tubes

-------------------Stop-------------------------------------------------

These Valve covers have to come up over the Esentric Sensor in rear of valve cover first and when reassembly has to go over first….....….....

-----------------------------------------------------Take your time ---------

Remember of reassembly wipe the oil from spark plugs tube seats because this will cause misfire of engine ….....

U can use light see through lithium grease on new spark plug tube seal for reassembly

The Left valve cover is the same TAKE NOTE:----------


On Removal of left valve cover there is 2 coolant hoses heater that will need to pushed under valve cover once free from spark plug tubes or you will have to disconnect the upper hose….....but makes mess with coolant.

Remember the cover lifts up over the Rear Esentric Sensor mount first and goes back over first on Reassembly.

That is about it….....Just take your time, force the valve cover off spark plug tubes, keep in mind of the 1 – 10 mm bolt back at cam sensors

My New Valve Covers Arrived With New Seal And Bolts.
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Last edited by cessna823; 05-08-2014 at 08:40 PM. Reason: add photos and update a coment
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