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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2011, 05:51 PM
Bmw94 Bmw94 is offline
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Throwout bearing going

Hey guys. I have done a ton of looking around to find out what my ticking noise is. I have another thread on it with some videos. However, after purchasing a automotive stethoscope, I have determined that it is indeed the throwout bearing that is going bad. To my knowledge, there is not a grease fitting to grease it with. So, I am going to have to change the throwout bearing. My question is, if I do not change the bearing now, and it only gets worse, is there anything else that it can damage? The clutch still works perfectly, just a little stiff to push in (do to the bearing), although it is not a big issue with me. I was hoping that I could just wait until I needed to change the clutch, then I could change that while I was in there, instead of doing all this work (taking exhaust, drive shaft, transmission out) just to change this one small part. What do you guys think? Do all this work and change the part now? Or wait until the clutch goes and change it then? If I wait, will the throwout bearing hurt anything else when it gets worse? Thanks in advanced
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2011, 06:02 PM
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525isport 525isport is offline
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if its getting stiffer and making noise then i would do the complete job now clutch and bearing .dont wait until something fails while your driving
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2011, 06:13 PM
Bmw94 Bmw94 is offline
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It isn't really that stiff. It also may seem stiff because I am a new driver and the only clutch I have used before was an old used clutch that needed replaced and was on my dad's old truck. The noise is a slight ticking noise that happens in low rpms usually and it isn't very annoying or loud. It is just a ticking noise that I was wondering what it was. Honestly, it isn't even much louder than the engine, and with the radio on, I can't even notice it. That is why I am wondering if it is a big deal. I know the part is going, but it doesn't seem like it is bad. And on top of that, the clutch feels fairly new, doesn't slip and grabs every time. That is why I don't really wanna replace the clutch yet, cause it doesn't need it. But I am wondering if I can just wait and replace the bearing when the clutch finally does go.
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2011, 06:38 PM
Bmw94 Bmw94 is offline
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I have done a little more looking and just found a thread where a guy had his clutch replaced and the new one had ticking. It turned out to be his master cylinder. How would I tell if the ticking was from the master cylinder or is from the throwout bearing going bad? Also, I found a hint that it also could be the pilot bearing. I have a stethoscope, so could I use it to determine which one of these parts is going? And are they necessary to change now or can they wait until I need to change the clutch?

Last edited by Bmw94; 07-15-2011 at 06:40 PM.
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2011, 07:00 PM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
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Pilot bearings rarely go bad.

Throwout bearing rides on a guide tube and is not lubricated as per the BMW TIS. The guide tube has a special coating. Eventually the throwout bearing wears through the coating to bare metal on the guide tube. Here is a picture of mine when I replaced the clutch at 170,xxx miles:



When you drop the transmission to do this job, and you are going to keep the car, I would recommend doing everything:

1. dual mass flywheel (internal marcel springs are a wear item), or upgrade to one piece flywheel, lightweight or not, which requires a spring hubbed clutch disc and different pressure plate - see UUC. DMF is SACHS or LUK.
2. new clutch disc (SACHS or LUK)
3. new self-adjusting pressure plate (and bolts) Again, SACHS or LUK
4. new throwout bearing
5. new pilot bearing
6. new TOB guide tube on transmission
7. new rear main seal on engine (DMF is off already)
8. new transmission input, selector shaft and output seals
9. new shift console bushings and plastic washers
10. new exhaust gaskets and copper nuts
11. new clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder (master for a complete hydraulic clutch redo)
12. new plastic pivot pin and spring on transmission (throwout / lever arm if worn)

This is what I did and with a rental car for the week, total parts cost + rental car, + materials / fluids + transmission adapter for my jack = $2,000

Why I did mine:



Around 3 years and 30k trouble free miles so far (knocks on wood).

Cheers.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2011, 07:53 PM
Bmw94 Bmw94 is offline
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So I am at about 133,000, and the noise isn't bad and it is completely bearable. So do you think I should just wait until the clutch goes and then replace all the clutch related parts like you mentioned?
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2011, 08:28 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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That's what I'd do. The clutch goes gradually, and so it probably won't leave you stranded. I don't see any harm in waiting. I have 157,000 on mine, and it still feels strong.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2011, 08:41 PM
jrmtrhd jrmtrhd is offline
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I would follow the advise on the previous post and replace all the components mentioned. At 130k miles many things will need to be replaced including the clutch and related components.

IMHO, preventive maintenance is the key here, and you want to avoid a breakdown and additional costs of towing etc. I would do the job ASAP and drive without worries.
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2011, 06:39 AM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
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It's your roll of the dice BMW94.

If all you have is a noise, not exactly pinned down to specific component, then I would just drive it until you gather the parts.

In my case:

I had issues getting into gear intermittently.

I 1st flushed and bled the clutch slave cylinder, an often forgotten maintenance item, and it improved for a week or two,
Then I replaced the clutch slave cylinder, was OK for another week.

Then, commuting to work, lost ability to get into any gear. Could shut car off and start in a gear (I chose 3rd), and limped car home.

Took the plunge and found the grendaded clutch disc. (nothing else to do at that point but dig in.

Good luck.
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Last edited by Jase007; 07-16-2011 at 06:40 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2011, 11:30 AM
Bmw94 Bmw94 is offline
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Yeah. Since I don't have a job yet, and therefore don't have the money yet, I think I will just wait until I get the money, then as soon as I get the money I will change it. And since I don't even have my full license yet, I just won't drive it too much until I can change the part. I will get looking for a job, and then as soon as I have the money I'll overhaul the whole clutch assembly and related parts. And thanks for all the help too guys
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2012, 05:36 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Bringing back an old thread from 2011...

I am at 130K miles now, only for the first 2-3 minutes in the morning (engine cold):
- Depress Clutch Pedal: no noise.
- Release Clutch Pedal: there is a very very slight squealing noise. The noise is very faint but noticeable. A few minutes of driving, noise is gone.
- My Clutch is still good.

So my question for those with throw-out bearing issue: when the throw-out bearing starts to make noise, how many miles before it is completely kaput?

PS: If and whenever I do the Clutch Job, I will do the whole nine yards as Jason said above (Rear Main Seal, Giubo, Trans Seals etc. etc.)
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:28 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Probably sooner than later if the miles are weighted toward in-town driving with lots of stops.
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  #13  
Old 09-24-2012, 10:50 AM
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Topaz540i Topaz540i is offline
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Greasing the throw out bearing will only attract dirt.
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2012, 02:29 PM
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For the record:

Lots of TO bearings make a little noise with the car idling in neutral, but if the noise goes away as soon as you step on the clutch, you`re OK. If the TO bearing squeals like a stuck pig when you step on it, it`s time to say "Adios"....
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2012, 06:56 PM
Turbo_525 Turbo_525 is offline
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Wow, not even a full liscense yet and driving an updated e39?! That's pretty neat - except when things such as this pop up.

The only clutch I have replaced in over 20 years and 400,000 miles of manual transmission driving was in my '96 Dodge Ram/Cummins diesel truck. At 290k, the throw out bearing, um, well, threw itself out (after 5,000 miles of making noise proressivley). A local indi shope replaced the full clutch, pressure plate, and bearings, using a new South-Bend clutch. Total bill: $665 with labor.

As a guide, check out Rock Auto for clutch kits, slave cylinders, and associated parts. They stock a variety of brands, and thier prices are good.
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  #16  
Old 09-29-2012, 05:42 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Bringing back an old thread from 2011...

I am at 130K miles now, only for the first 2-3 minutes in the morning (engine cold):
- Depress Clutch Pedal: no noise.
- Release Clutch Pedal: there is a very very slight squealing noise. The noise is very faint but noticeable. A few minutes of driving, noise is gone.
- My Clutch is still good.

So my question for those with throw-out bearing issue: when the throw-out bearing starts to make noise, how many miles before it is completely kaput?

PS: If and whenever I do the Clutch Job, I will do the whole nine yards as Jason said above (Rear Main Seal, Giubo, Trans Seals etc. etc.)
My TOB squeaked when pressing the clutch pedal. Sitting still in neutral, the car had a slight rattling noise at idle .... cyclical, so I thought maybe clutch or flywheel. I did the "whole 9 yards" back early this summer. No noises at all afterward. My car had about 153k at that point.

I took the old TOB apart yesterday, enough to see inside. It was dry-spinning; the soft seal was cracked and had crumbled away in spots, lots of clutch dust inside, and the large ball-bearings mounted on a single plastic race were bone-dry. It was using the dust as lubricant ....!

Among other bearings I changed out ....
- My original pilot bearing was still good; spins like it's in molasses.
- My driveshaft centering sleeve was heavily worn inside (worn-out rubber core).
- My original center support bearing popped right out of its rubber mount/bracket when I removed it from the shaft, and it was spinning dry.

I'd say, if the TOB has noise, it's dried-out and you are on borrowed time.

Last edited by pleiades; 09-29-2012 at 05:58 PM. Reason: called clutch dust "brake" dust, duuuuh....
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  #17  
Old 09-29-2012, 05:57 PM
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AnotherGeezer AnotherGeezer is offline
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I'm due for the whole shebang when I hit 130k. I get a little TOB rattle when I shut off the car plus I do most of my driving in the city so I'm constantly on the pedal.

I also get a slight ticking sound when releasing the clutch. I'm thinking it's probably the dual-mass flywheel acting worn.
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  #18  
Old 07-10-2013, 02:08 PM
mitek mitek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherGeezer View Post
I'm due for the whole shebang when I hit 130k. I get a little TOB rattle when I shut off the car plus I do most of my driving in the city so I'm constantly on the pedal.

I also get a slight ticking sound when releasing the clutch. I'm thinking it's probably the dual-mass flywheel acting worn.
Hi,
I was wondering if you figured out what was making the ticking sound on yours? I have the same ticking sound when the clutch is disengaged/the pedal is pressed in. The clutch makes no noises while engaged. 110k miles on mine. The PO told me that he replaced the clutch just before I bought the car last April.
Thanks!
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