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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2011, 12:18 PM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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I swear I owned a lemon grove in my previous life...

My six month ordeal with Lexus ended up with them buying my LX back.

After driving the diesel, I was sold on the vehicle and subsequently placed an order for one. From almost day one, the vehicle has had an annoying clunk coming from the tailgate, and after back-to-back weekend trips to Cleveland for a funeral, I decided to take the X5 to the dealer to have clunk/rattle quelled. It has now back at the shop because the clunking returned...

Just got a call from my SA, and she said the tailgate cannot be aligned and the clunk isn't going away - next step is to call corporate. She asked me what I wanted to to, and I told her I wanted a replacement vehicle with the same color/options. I'd rather that over a body shop trying to fix the issue.

Who in the hell let a misaligned tailgate go unnoticed? You'd swear a UAW dolt was doing QC down in Spartanburg.

Let's see if BMWNA will step up to the plate.

Stay tuned...
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  #2  
Old 07-28-2011, 01:11 PM
smuggymba smuggymba is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nello3 View Post
My six month ordeal with Lexus ended up with them buying my LX back.

After driving the diesel, I was sold on the vehicle and subsequently placed an order for one. From almost day one, the vehicle has had an annoying clunk coming from the tailgate, and after back-to-back weekend trips to Cleveland for a funeral, I decided to take the X5 to the dealer to have clunk/rattle quelled. It has now back at the shop because the clunking returned...

Just got a call from my SA, and she said the tailgate cannot be aligned and the clunk isn't going away - next step is to call corporate. She asked me what I wanted to to, and I told her I wanted a replacement vehicle with the same color/options. I'd rather that over a body shop trying to fix the issue.

Who in the hell let a misaligned tailgate go unnoticed? You'd swear a UAW dolt was doing QC down in Spartanburg.

Let's see if BMWNA will step up to the plate.

Stay tuned...
I also heard a thump/clunk from the back and the dealer fixed the rear hatch. Now after a few days, I hear something lose again. Just booked appointment again today.
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  #3  
Old 07-28-2011, 08:06 PM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuggymba View Post
I also heard a thump/clunk from the back and the dealer fixed the rear hatch. Now after a few days, I hear something lose again. Just booked appointment again today.
I find it a little absurd that this seems like a fairly common problem. Just walked the dog, and my neighbor said his hatch clunked as well but never had it fixed since it was a lease.
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  #4  
Old 07-28-2011, 08:33 PM
rattmann rattmann is offline
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On my previous 2008 X5, after that clunk the rear windshield broke in zillion pieces.
BMW tried 6 times and couldn't fix it. The rear window kept peeling away from the frame and water caused rusting.

Finally BMW got me in to 2011X5 by giving me $2500 over the excellent BB value and $6000 below invoice on 2011.
I took the deal.
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2011, 06:20 AM
Gregory34 Gregory34 is offline
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I had the same issue with the 'clunk' coming from the tailgate. After 4-5 visits to the dealer without resolving the isse I took it to another dealer. They fixed it on the first try...reading the service notes - they adjusted it 4 times on that visit before they nailed it. I suggest trying another dealer, although it is tough to find one that 'cares'...
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2011, 07:33 AM
DeanLinAZ DeanLinAZ is offline
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Hey, they all go "clunk" when they close. The rear hatch is not a "soft close" item. Live with it and drive.
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2011, 07:45 AM
Gregory34 Gregory34 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanLinAZ View Post
Hey, they all go "clunk" when they close. The rear hatch is not a "soft close" item. Live with it and drive.
It's not the 'clunk' closing that we're referring to...it's that clunk while driving as weight shift that is the problem... Nothing drives like a BMW - but I still think it should at least creak/clunk less than a Jeep...
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2011, 11:59 AM
rattmann rattmann is offline
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Also check the battery cover as it also makes noise
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  #9  
Old 08-02-2011, 11:42 AM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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Tailgate has been fixed, but some yahoo sliced the inside door panel - I got in another loaner and went back home. The dealer now has to replace the entire inside of the door panel on the driver's side along with the third attempt of getting all the grease off my front windows when I roll them up, and a new front license plate holder due to one of their guys stripping the screw holes when they put their dealer advertising on my license plates. Idiots.

At least my SA is a pleasure to deal with.
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2011, 08:47 AM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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Wanted to bring this thread up to date since I am being told something confusing from BMWNA and Park Ave. BMW here in NJ...

The vehicle has gone back in for the fourth time on Friday (now 16 days off the road), and Park Ave. called in one of their body shop guys to locate the loud clunk/pop. The tech said he noticed some uneven/sloppy welds and adhesive applications on one side of the rear and the tailgate isn't properly aligned (which was known). With that said, I told my SA that the body shop can look at the vehicle, but there is no way I am authorizing body work on this vehicle - the X5 shouldn't have come out of the factory this way.

I spoke with a woman at BMWNA and she said in order for BMW to buy the X5 back and replace it (minus mileage), I'd need to file a complaint with my CA at Manhattan BMW. Park Ave. (where I get it serviced) won't be able to assist with a buyback.

Personally, I think this is a B.S. response, but for those of you who have lemoned a BMW, is this how they operate?

Last edited by Nello3; 10-16-2011 at 08:50 AM.
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  #11  
Old 10-16-2011, 09:37 AM
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PurPlazur PurPlazur is offline
is what life is ..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregory34 View Post
It's not the 'clunk' closing that we're referring to...it's that clunk while driving as weight shift that is the problem... Nothing drives like a BMW - but I still think it should at least creak/clunk less than a Jeep...
Do like the rest of us, wrap the latch in electrical tape and drive. No need for BMWNA on this one.
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2011, 09:49 AM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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Originally Posted by PurPlazur View Post
Do like the rest of us, wrap the latch in electrical tape and drive. No need for BMWNA on this one.
That has already been attempted and the popping became louder.
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2011, 10:04 AM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nello3 View Post
Wanted to bring this thread up to date since I am being told something confusing from BMWNA and Park Ave. BMW here in NJ...

The vehicle has gone back in for the fourth time on Friday (now 16 days off the road), and Park Ave. called in one of their body shop guys to locate the loud clunk/pop. The tech said he noticed some uneven/sloppy welds and adhesive applications on one side of the rear and the tailgate isn't properly aligned (which was known). With that said, I told my SA that the body shop can look at the vehicle, but there is no way I am authorizing body work on this vehicle - the X5 shouldn't have come out of the factory this way.

I spoke with a woman at BMWNA and she said in order for BMW to buy the X5 back and replace it (minus mileage), I'd need to file a complaint with my CA at Manhattan BMW. Park Ave. (where I get it serviced) won't be able to assist with a buyback.

Personally, I think this is a B.S. response, but for those of you who have lemoned a BMW, is this how they operate?
I assume you know the statutory requirements for a buyback in your state, correct?

You should know how corporations work, in terms of 'self protection'...they do not make it easy to initiate a buyback. YOU need to FORCE the issue, in legal terms. It is really pretty easy.... Collect up your work orders which prove the defects trigger the lemon clause; summarize this in a LETTER; send the letter to BMWNA Corporate via Certified Mail, return receipt (copy to your dealer).

Once BMWNA Corporate has a written demand letter, they are forced to follow the law.

Until that have a demand letter- ie when you are sending emails or calling on the phone- they can (and do) jerk you around with nonsense. This is just the way the system works- front line staff at consumer affairs is trained to turn you back to the dealer; to get you off the phone and say they will look into it; that they will contact the dealer....but when you say the magic words, "To whom shall I address a formal buyback request letter, name, address and fax number?" you will find a new dimension in their response. Serious people, not very friendly, but know the legal path they (and you) must walk.

Don't feel bad that BMW keeps this difficult: It's like that aesops fable where the alligator says "Hey, Im an alligator, what do you expect"...they are instructed to delay and deflect, call it a 'customer assist'; rope in the dealer to help; etc, etc...until the legal terms of the buyback in your state are satisfied, then they have no choice.


Now, you may say, "This is no way for a company to treat customers". I suppose I agree, but you are trying, essentially, to become a 'non-customer'..why should they make it easy? Not agreeing, just saying. Don't take it personal, it's just bidness...

Oh, your demand should- without overtly claiming this, make very clear the FIRST mileage at which your continuing defect was identified. The buyback amount is often tied to this date/mileage (yur state may vary)...but having this in the documentary record in the demand will make it easier to argue later when they lowball the buyback offer...

Oh, and to the extent that you can co-opt the dealer, so that THEY are on your side...and THEY are annoyed at BMWNA for jerking them around too, that BMWNA has not helped fix your problem- this will help get you a better deal with the buyback

A
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2011, 10:57 AM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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ard, that's good info you provide; it's much appreciated. I know the rules for NJ, so the bases are covered there. I'm a very easy person to deal with so my request will be a new replacement vehicle minus original mileage.

I had a feeling this would be a little more difficult process over Lexus because that was a steering and safety issue. Tomorrow I will be calling up BMWNA to get the ball rolling.

Thanks again man.
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2011, 04:11 PM
ard ard is offline
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My car had 33k when I lemoned it...but was able to prove the first time the issue arose was 9900 miles. 9900/120k versus 33000/120k is a pretty large difference. About $13,000 more.

Mine was in the shop 58 days when I began, so that was pretty much a non-brainer for all involved.

Frustratingly they left me on my own for the replacement- they would not help with any allocation, so I was forced to cut a retail deal (which I did without too much hassle).

GL

A
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  #16  
Old 10-18-2011, 01:48 AM
alphaod alphaod is offline
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Either I don't know what this clunking sound is about, or I don't have it in the my car... What does this sound like exactly?
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  #17  
Old 10-18-2011, 01:17 PM
BR328 BR328 is offline
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Hmm I'm interested in this clunk too. I hear a clunk when going around turns. I figured it was something I left in the storage area moving back and forth.
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  #18  
Old 10-18-2011, 09:50 PM
ard ard is offline
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Originally Posted by alphaod View Post
Either I don't know what this clunking sound is about, or I don't have it in the my car... What does this sound like exactly?
Apparently it sounds precisely like the sound you don't have.


(I know, wiseask, but your post just seemed funny....)
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  #19  
Old 10-19-2011, 04:45 AM
robertdznj robertdznj is offline
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You've probably done this too, but check that the back seats are actually locked in place. One day there was some clunking going on in the back of my 2011, and after reading these threads, I thought it was the tailgate. I did the electrical tape, etc. The noise was driving me nuts and I was screaming in my head, "a 60K car shouldn't do this - WTF!" I realized after banging the sides of the back and slamming shut the tailgate that the little red tab was sticking up on one of the back seats. Problem solved there. But I still get annoying plasticky creaks from either the battery cover (CHEAP PLASTIC!) or the latch where the trunk cover locks (the button/plastic piece) from time to time - mostly in warmer weather it seems.
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  #20  
Old 10-19-2011, 08:07 AM
BR328 BR328 is offline
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I found my clunk...the manual I put in the storage area was moving around.
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  #21  
Old 10-19-2011, 12:19 PM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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I LOL'd at "the sound you don't have."

It's a deep metallic pop/clunk. The seats were looked at and covered with felt tape. The cargo cover was ruled out, and the latch was replaced and covered with felt tape. None of these solutions worked.

I spoke with BMWNA again and they asked if I was willing to give them first crack at vehicle replacement before I retained an attorney to move forward. I said yes and they're supposed to get back to me by Monday.
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  #22  
Old 10-19-2011, 12:30 PM
smuggymba smuggymba is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nello3 View Post
I LOL'd at "the sound you don't have."

It's a deep metallic pop/clunk. The seats were looked at and covered with felt tape. The cargo cover was ruled out, and the latch was replaced and covered with felt tape. None of these solutions worked.

I spoke with BMWNA again and they asked if I was willing to give them first crack at vehicle replacement before I retained an attorney to move forward. I said yes and they're supposed to get back to me by Monday.
My clunk has not been fixed after the 5th attempt and I have the 6th attempt scheduled with dealer number 3.


BMWNA has not replied to my email yet. It's been 5 days.

Nello - Did you call or email for the complaint. I have emailed them previously for other questions and they replied the next day.
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  #23  
Old 10-19-2011, 01:12 PM
Nello3 Nello3 is offline
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I called and started keeping note of names at corporate when I spoke with them.

The first call I pretty much got a "f-off" response and they told me to deal with Manhattan BMW. On the second call the rep was more patient when I told her from the start all I want are contact names, email/mailing addresses, and phone numbers because I am going to lemon the vehicle.
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  #24  
Old 10-19-2011, 05:54 PM
ard ard is offline
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I'll give some tips here in public:

1. "talking" is simply masturbation. They are trained to deflect. You are wasting your time.

2. Sending emails is moronic.

3. Reading your printed warranty, and DOING WHAT IT SAYS YOU **MUST** DO TO START A CLAIM is the plan. If it says you must send them a letter, and instead your are sending emails and having chit-chats, you will get nowhere. Send a certified demand letter. They will shift gears, and you will find yourself not dealing with people trained to deflect...instead you will deal with paralegals (who are wrong on some items, but understand they need to move it along).

4. DO NOT tell them "I have an attorney" unless you really do- and if you do, that is foolish, since this is easy to do (usually). If you say "I have an atty" they will say "we can only deal with your atty in that case"

5. Why should you NOT use an atty? Usually the atty fees are tacked ONTO the amount of the settlement- HOWEVER most attys take a % if your settlement! So say you get 60k...but you hire an atty...he bills BMW for 10 hours at 400, they pay 64k...atty takes 4k plus 10% of 60k, you only get 54k. Now do we understand why there are so many lemon law attys??? Once you have an atty, BMW works very quickly to minimize their billings, but you still get screwed. (Once they have an atty, they will wrap it up in an hour or so.)

6. Make sure YOU understand your rights and drive the process. You can threaten an atty, but watch that line...

My 2 cents
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Last edited by ard; 10-19-2011 at 06:07 PM.
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  #25  
Old 10-19-2011, 08:37 PM
tonka858 tonka858 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
I'll give some tips here in public:

1. "talking" is simply masturbation. They are trained to deflect. You are wasting your time.

2. Sending emails is moronic.

3. Reading your printed warranty, and DOING WHAT IT SAYS YOU **MUST** DO TO START A CLAIM is the plan. If it says you must send them a letter, and instead your are sending emails and having chit-chats, you will get nowhere. Send a certified demand letter. They will shift gears, and you will find yourself not dealing with people trained to deflect...instead you will deal with paralegals (who are wrong on some items, but understand they need to move it along).

4. DO NOT tell them "I have an attorney" unless you really do- and if you do, that is foolish, since this is easy to do (usually). If you say "I have an atty" they will say "we can only deal with your atty in that case"

5. Why should you NOT use an atty? Usually the atty fees are tacked ONTO the amount of the settlement- HOWEVER most attys take a % if your settlement! So say you get 60k...but you hire an atty...he bills BMW for 10 hours at 400, they pay 64k...atty takes 4k plus 10% of 60k, you only get 54k. Now do we understand why there are so many lemon law attys??? Once you have an atty, BMW works very quickly to minimize their billings, but you still get screwed. (Once they have an atty, they will wrap it up in an hour or so.)

6. Make sure YOU understand your rights and drive the process. You can threaten an atty, but watch that line...

My 2 cents
+1
wasting time on calls and emails will just frustrate you for nothing.
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