License plate bulb wiring help

The left side wiring stopped working. The right side bulb and socket work there, but not on the left side. Any suggestions?

Yes. Remove the bottom finisher inside the trunk lid, and poke around in there.

Did you replace the bulb?

I replaced the bulb. The left side new bulb and housing work on the right side but not on the left side.

Originally Posted by energizedmortal

The left side new bulb and housing work on the right side but not on the left side.

Your brown wire with a gray stripe (positive connection to the left licplate bulb) is broken, and/or its equivalent brown ground wire (pin 1 at connection 709) is likely broken.

Classic problem.
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Light bulb above the license plate needs replacement

Classic solution:
- E39 Electrical Problems Traced to Trunk Lid Harness Wire Chafing (DIY Diagnostic)

KNOWN LOOM WIRE CONNECTIONS:
01. Red/yellow line = 2 @ x712 -> trunk lid light (positive)
02. Red/black line = ?
03. Gray/yellow line = 3 @ 1377 -> tunk lid locking switch (open signal)
04. Brown/gray line = 2 @ x709 -> left license plate light (positive)
05. Gray/Brown line = 4 @ x311 -> zv drive (lid closed)
06. Gray/black line = 2 @ x710 -> right license plate light (positive)
07. Gray/Green -> 4 @ x311 -> zv drive rear lid (positive)
08. White/ Brown line = 3 @ x311 -> ZV to luggage compartment light
09. Brown = 1 @ x709 -> left license plate light (ground)
10. Brown = 1 @ x710 -> right license plate light (ground)
11. Brown = 5 @ x311 -> zv drive ground
12. Brown = 1 @ x1377 -> trunk lid locking switch (open signal)
13. Brown/blue line = ?
NOTE: (majority color[s])/(line color)=(pin number)@(connector number -> description

Blu you were right I did a quick fix for now and put electrical tape and those two broken cables

Originally Posted by energizedmortal

Blu you were right I did a quick fix for now and put electrical tape and those two broken cables

Please help us out.

Snap a picture of the broken (or repaired) wires. Make the picture as close to the wires as you can focus so that we can better tell what it looks like.

We're trying to determine exactly WHY these wires are breaking and that's why we want the photos.

Thanks.

i agree with what others think...perhaps gray and blue cars had a factory defect at some point down the assembly line and the cables are not long enough which causes them to fold and brake. In the past I have had luck with electrical tape holding together broken wires like this even if pulled (i added electrical tape to the slack i reconnected without soldering and it is working for now) . Im hoping the electrical tape absorbs most of the fold affect for a long time, next time i will add more cable length.

Originally Posted by energizedmortal

gray and blue cars had a factory defect

The "blue bmw loom of death" strikes again!

Originally Posted by energizedmortal

the cables are not long enough which causes them to fold and break

That's what I thought. I figured they were being "pulled" apart based on the very clean breaks, all in the same axial location, in the wire insulation. Coupling that observation with a lack of twisting of the copper strands, my assumption was they were being pulled apart.

But, the equally valid assumption they are being bent to death may apply.

BTW, I consider it a success that we can predict exactly which wires are broken simply based on the symptoms observed!