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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-09-2011, 12:18 AM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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ABS DSC module rebuild by Module Masters and DIY

I got the tri-fecta of lights a while ago. DSC ABS and BRAKE lights. They would turn on every-time I took a drive, as soon as the car was warmed up the lights would turn on.

When this happens you have 3 choices:

1: Get a used module with the EXACT same part #. The downside is you will have a tamper dot on your gauge cluster and you will lose some random features that the module is tied into. Like cruise control, speed sensitive wipers and speed sensitive audio for dsp. Also heard that auto roll up windows have been lost. The upside and only upside is that you will spend less money. maybe $80-$100 for a used module.

2: Buy a new module and have it coded by the dealer. Cheapest I found a new module is $485 from Mark @ eaceuroparts.com and Coding/activating at the dealer ranges from $60-$150 depends on how much the dealer respects a DIY'er. (now don't forget your going to be spending a nice chunk of change on a part that will most likely fail the same way again.)

3: And best choice by far - Send it to ModuleMasters for $320 incl. shipping. No coding needed since it is your original module. They rebuild it with better parts and give you a 5 year warranty. They read the error codes for free and if it's not a problem with the module they will refund your money and send the module back to you with a print out of the errors. You can still drive the car without an ABS/DSC module but you will lose your speedo and a couple other important features along with the ABS and DSC. EDIT: You will also get a check engine light if you start/drive the car that will need to be cleared with a scanner tool after.

NOTE:
(There are other companies out there other than Modulemasters that offer the same work at better prices, I chose module masters for the warranty and the extra mile they go to help if you have a problem. They helped a good friend of mine with a bad airbag module)

I went with #3
If you read the info on ModuleMasters.com you will find out this is a common heat related failure and can often be rebuilt. I was also told if the cruise control does NOT work they will NOT be able to fix it and you most likely have a bad speed sensor causing the "tri-fecta" If the CC works then they have an 80% chance of repairing it with better parts.

First slide the connector clip out. Use a flat-head screwdriver and some leverage, the connector will come out upwards as you slide the clip out sideways.


Remove the 6 T-20 screws and gently slide the module off.




After that I just wrapped everything with a plastic bag since I wasn't going to be driving the car till the module came back. If you have to drive the car they say to wrap it with aluminum foil.
The module itself must be packed up safely, I wrapped it with a static proof bag, if you don't have one just wrap it with aluminum foil. Make sure you pad the shipping box well. You dont want it to break on the way there. There's cylindrical parts that feel like they are mounted on springs in the module and don't look like they can take much abuse.

After a couple of days you will get a call on the status of the error codes and if it can be rebuilt. I was told I had a fatal error code #23 which could either mean mine was unrepairable or it was just that it was on a bench being tested and didn't agree with their setup. They told me they still rebuilt it and wouldn't charge me anything till I had it installed and confirm after 50 miles that i didn't get any lights.

Ok I got the module back and its nice and clean. You can see in this picture where they opened it up and resealed it very nice.


If you drove the car at all while the module was out, make sure to blowout any dust that might of gotten in there. Then carefully slide the module back into place and re-install the torx screws.
Next reconnect the harness CAREFULLY, there's really skinny pins in the module that can be bent and broken easily. Make sure the slider is fully out before you try to plug the harness in. Once you get the harness half way in then slide the lock back and it will pull down the connector with it.



Start your car (Reset your check engine light if you started/drove the car without a module) and go for a nice drive, test your cruise control and drive long enough to make sure the lights dont come back on.

GOOD NEWS for me everything is working fine and NO trouble lights!
The Money shot. Disregard the rest of the motor. (I was still buttoning up the cooling system overhaul.)
__________________
Andreas
Queens NY
BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.

Last edited by Whorse; 08-09-2011 at 02:35 AM. Reason: CEL addition
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2011, 01:19 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,806
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
I got the tri-fecta of lights a while ago...When this happens you have 3 choices
Very nice concise ABS control module repair DIY!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
1: Get a used module with the EXACT same part #. The downside is you will have a tamper dot
More information on that tamper dot is here:
- What happens if you don't code your VIN into a new/salvage ABS control module (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
2: Buy a new module and have it coded by the dealer.
While most won't buy a new OEM ABS control module from the dealer (>$1,000), we recommend OEM wheel speed sensors (not aftermarket) if you need to replace them:
- Why you want OEM wheel speed sensors (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
3: And best choice by far - Send it to ModuleMasters for $320 incl. shipping.
The three most recommended rebuilders are:
1. BBA Reman (highly recommended)
2. Module Masters (highly recommended)
3. ATE (the cheapest; I paid only $105 + $20 shipping two years ago for my ABS CPU to be rebuilt)

Here, in post #448, is a recent summary of their prices:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mffalrrel View Post
Prices have gone up a bit:
BBA $275
MM $300
ATE $159
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
They rebuild it with better parts and give you a 5 year warranty.
Personally, I highly suspect they do much more than:
1. Test
2. Reaffix the steel wire onto the gold bond pad
3. Test

But, I have no PROOF that that's all they do!

My suspicions are based on talking to ATE on the phone myself, and by asking others to talk to their rebuilders when the ABS control module is still on the test jig. The ambiguous answers from the rebuilders coupled with known shots of the inside of the ABS control module autopsies, leads me to believe they lie about 'what' they actually 'fix'. But, I may be wrong (and I'll admit it if I am); so I would like to ask EVERYONE to call the rebuilder when their module is on the test jig to ask WHAT EXACTLY IS BEING FIXED (and, of course, report back here what you find out).

See this picture from post #383 which shows the steel wire that lifts off its gold bondpad and the fact that almost nothing else is 'repairable' or 'replaceable' inside the ABS control module. Personally, I think the rebuilders lie - but - we need more data to confirm that suspicion.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
You can still drive the car without an ABS/DSC module but you will lose
For more details, see:
- What anomalies occur while the ABS control module is out of your vehicle for repair (1) (2) (3)

For example, post #320 here lists some things you may temporarily lose while the ABS control module is off the vehicle:
Quote:
While your ABS control module is out of the car, the following anomalies have been reported by others:
- Brake/DSC/ABS trifecta solid yellow lights (on the instrument cluster)
- Service Engine Soon (SES) solid yellow light lit (on the instrument cluster)
- No ABS (upon hard braking under low-traction conditions)
- No traction control (DSC or ASC on lateral action)
- No speedometer (use a portable GPS navigation unit if you're worried about that)
- No odometer (again, use a portable GPS unit if this bothers you)
- No tripmeter (use a portable GPS unit if it's a worry to you)
- No cruise control
- OBDII diagnostic trouble code DTC P0500, i.e., bad speed sensor (clear by driving or with an OBDII scanner)
- No possibility of passing (California at least) smog inspections (until you replace the ABS control module & clear the DTC)
- No speed-sensitive automatic door locks (if enabled at the stealer)
- No GPS (if you have navigation)
- No mileage calculations on the instrument cluster
- No fuel consumption calculations on the instrument cluster
- No range indications on the instrument cluster
- No speed-sensitive radio (if equipped)
- No speed-sensitive wipers (if equipped)
- Erratic fuel gauge (especially when near empty, so keep the tank at greater than 3/4 at all times)
- Erratic transmission shifting (if automatic; if it bothers you, switch to manual shifting)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
this is a common heat related failure
The commonly agreed 'problem' is that BMW put the ABS control module too close to the heat and vibration of the engine (to save money). Also, they improperly affixed the steel wire to the gold bondpad (some say using novel techniques instead of soldering).

BTW, some people resort to adding extra shielding to shield the ABS control module from the engine heat (as shown in post #270):



Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
and can often be rebuilt.
It might be useful to note that people 'have' successfully rebuilt their ABS control modules for free; but it takes skill and a good steady hand and coordinated eye:
- How to autopsy & fix your Bosch ABS control module yourself for free (1) (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
if the cruise control does NOT work they will NOT be able to fix it and you most likely have a bad speed sensor
This is an interesting (and potentially very useful) observation!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
If the CC works then they have an 80% chance of repairing it with better parts.
I suspect the 'better parts' are simply a dab of solder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
The module itself must be packed up safely ... There's cylindrical parts that feel like they are mounted on springs in the module and don't look like they can take much abuse.
It may be instructive to see how ATE immobilized those "cylindrical parts" when they shipped it back to me:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
I was told I had a fatal error code #23
Here is what that code 'seems' to indicate:
- 23 Incorrect Coding - ABS/ASC module is faulty
Based at least on this table from post #469:
Quote:
BMW ABS/ASC Bosch 5.7 Table of error codes:
5 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
6 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
7 Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor
14 Solenoid Valve Relay (check fuses 17 & 33)
15 Pressure Sensor/Pump Error
21 Module Memory Failure - ABS/ASC module is faulty
23 Incorrect Coding - ABS/ASC module is faulty
24 Wrong Impulse
30 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
31 Open Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
32 Open Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor
33 Open Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor
50 Right Front Outlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty
51 Left Rear Outlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty
54 Left Front Inlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty
55 ASC Intake Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty
58 Gear Box Control Unit (CAN bus error)
59 DMER1 (CAN bus error)
61 Steering Angle Sensor Identification
66 Speed Sensor Voltage Supply
67 Intermittent Interference
75 Engine Speed Fault from DME
81 Pressure Sensor
82 Open Yaw Rate Sensor
86 ASC Cut-off Valve Rear Axle
88 Precharge Pump
89 Low Voltage
90 Temporary System Deactivation
94 DDE Fault/Yaw rate sensor
97 Steering Angle Sensor
105 Brake Light Switch
108 SN Control
112 Open CAN to Instrument Cluster
114 Pressure Sensor Offset
115 Pressure Sensor Interface
117 Brake Light Switch Failure
118 DME Status-Internal Error
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
I got the module back and its nice and clean. You can see in this picture where they opened it up and resealed it very nice.
MM did a much nicer job resealing yours than ATE did on mine (as can be seen in post #130)!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
GOOD NEWS for me everything is working fine and NO trouble lights!
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you for this beautiful writeup!

I wish everyone took the time and energy you did to edify the rest of us so beautifully!
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Last edited by bluebee; 08-09-2011 at 02:36 AM. Reason: Resized pictures & included for posterity (in case original hosting site goes down).
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2011, 01:57 AM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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From examining the module before and after, it looks like they did something from the open side since i see some numbers scraped off. And on the other side you can see they had to open up the black box and re-seal it. They must of changed at least 2 different parts. On the site somewhere they mention like 5 parts.

Sorry blue bee i edited my post after you quoted. I added in the CEL tripping info.
__________________
Andreas
Queens NY
BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2011, 02:16 AM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Damn if i knew it was just a pad/wire that needed replacing or re-soldering I would of taken a better look. I had the heat related failure which sounds like that bond issue, heats up and detaches itself. something looks like it was cleaned and re-soldered but i dont remember what it looked like before.
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Andreas
Queens NY
BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.
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  #5  
Old 08-09-2011, 02:19 AM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
It may be instructive to see how ATE immobilized those "cylindrical parts" when they shipped it back to me:
OH yes your right, I still have the special plastic they had made to ship these. Ill take a pic tomorrow and post it in the thread
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Andreas
Queens NY
BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2011, 02:54 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
it looks like they did something from the open side since i see some numbers scraped off.
Excellent (new) information!

This is the FIRST time I've heard that they touched parts on the backside (the one with the cylindrical posts)!

What we need to do is ASK people to snap BEFORE and AFTER pictures of that (often neglected) backside - so that we can tell if they've been touched during the rebuild process.

It might be that these 'parts' are touched either to test or to fix so it would also be useful to know WHAT these two objects do!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
Damn if i knew it was just a pad/wire that needed replacing or re-soldering I would of taken a better look.
Indeed. I also did not know this when I had the problem two years ago.

Apparently, the rebuilders will work on previously opened ABS control modules, so, there is little risk in 'just' opening it up to take a look.

What is most often recommended is using a magnetized needle to probe the steel wire to see if it lifted (ever so slightly) off its gold bondpad.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
I still have the special plastic they had made to ship these. Ill take a pic tomorrow and post it in the thread
Please do!

I also didn't have this shipping hint when I shipped mine off to ATE two years ago; and therefore I risked needless damage on the UPS truck!

Your pic will be useful to others in the future!

BTW, this 'heat-related' test may be of interest:
Originally Posted by mffalrrel
I did a hot/cold test on the ABS CU. Normally, the three lights are off when the engine is cold, and once it gets hot in the engine compartment, all three lights come on.

I started the engine when it was cold, no lights were on, so I turned the engine off. I gently got the ABS CU warm/hot with a hair dryer for about a min., started the car and all three lights were on.

Turned the engine off, then I cooled down the ABS CU with a plastic bag of crushed ice wrapped in a towel for about 3 minutes. Started the car, and the three lights were off.

So, it seems that the problem is heat related.
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2011, 03:37 AM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Here ya go blue bee, add this in. The cover MM has made to ship the modules without those cylindrical things bouncy around.
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Andreas
Queens NY
BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.
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  #8  
Old 08-09-2011, 07:10 AM
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BentValve BentValve is offline
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Also got mine rebuilt by Module Masters back in Sept. of last year. No issues whatsoever.
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2011, 08:25 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Location: Cambridge, ON
 
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Posts: 6,372
Mein Auto: 99 528iA
One thing that must be said about BMW/Siemens/Bosch is that their engineers need to learn to communicate better. Their software is truly temperamental.
Quote:
fatal error code #23 which could either mean mine was unrepairable or it was just that it was on a bench being tested and didn't agree with their setup.
Like when I tested my IHKA with DIS and it said it was all peachy. It was disconnected.

I'd noticed heat related problems on my grandfather's 540 when it started failing intermittently. It's good to see someone took a more scientific approach and confirmed our suspicions.
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Breaking My Wallet since 2009
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Last edited by bmw_n00b13; 08-09-2011 at 08:27 AM.
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  #10  
Old 08-09-2011, 08:34 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I just winder if BBA-reman.com offers this service for E39.

In 2007, I replaced my 1998 Volvo V70 ABS Module for $120.
It was just a generic ABS Module (no coding required).
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  #11  
Old 08-11-2011, 01:47 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
Here ya go blue bee, add this in. The cover MM has made to ship the modules without those cylindrical things bouncy around.
Wow. Very professional!

Given that ATE simply used masking tape, I was thinking that the ModuleMasters solonoid immobilizer would be flimsy, like saran wrap.

That stuff looks solid!

The only problem is that a user wouldn't have that handy when they need to send their ABS control module off for repair.

BTW, the result of the NEW INFORMATION in this thread (that I hadn't seen before) is that we now need to ask the NEXT person to do the following:

Quote:
Snap a before-and-after set of pictures of the backside of the ABS control module.
  • Pay particular attention to the two metal-encased modules (perhaps mark them so you'll know if/when they're replaced)

If you open up the front, snap before/after pictures of the guts
  • Pay particular attention (with a magnetized needle) to the steel wire to see if it lifted off its gold bond pad and to the gold "angel hairs" which may flop about and touch intermittently in the goop.

While the ABS control module is on the rebuilder's test jig, CALL THEM, and ask them what they found
  • I asked ATE, who said (from memory) they replaced discrete components - which I find hard to believe now that I've seen what the board looks like.
  • However, I didn't notice whether they replaced the metal-encased components in the BACK of the ABS control module!
Here is an example of the front and back pictures desired:
- BMW E38 ABS/DSC/ASC REPAIR

For posterity, here's a PDF of that E38 web page:
- BMW E38 ABS DSC Brake Failure Repair 735i 740i 750i.pdf

SAMPLE FRONT AUTOPSY PHOTO (showing the circuit board wiring & components):


SAMPLE BACK AUTOPSY PHOTO (showing the two metal-encased modules):
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  #12  
Old 08-11-2011, 09:43 AM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Interesting, This is how mine looked before i sent it out, but when i got it back the barcode was smeared off like alcohol or solder flux got on it, and the other one looked replaced (new)
__________________
Andreas
Queens NY
BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.
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  #13  
Old 07-18-2012, 02:28 PM
mikeson mikeson is offline
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Mein Auto: 99 323i, 2002 525i
I just got mine repaired at Los Angeles.

I contacted ModuleMasters but they are located at East coast and will take fewdays repair.
So I did search local and find this shop and while I was waiting they repaired it(less than one hour) and tested it.
It also comes with lifetime warranty.(price is very good too)

So those who are in SOCAL area, please check this place. I highly recommend it.

http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/
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