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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-05-2016, 09:17 AM
Phoenix39 Phoenix39 is offline
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Electrical issues after flat battery

My battery died last winter and after I replaced it, several electrical problems appeared simultaneously (so I doubt they're just coincidental).
- window switches on driver's side don't work (only on passenger's side)
- electrical windows don't work
- AC don't work (fans work and the AC is on, but the air is hot)
- After the old battery died I had to use the key hole to get in, now every time I use the remote, nothing happens on the driver's door. I still need to use the key hole there...

I checked the fuses first but they were ok, so what do I do now?
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  #2  
Old 08-05-2016, 12:39 PM
Phoenix39 Phoenix39 is offline
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I've done some searching and I read a lot about General module III... ****, I hope I won't have to replace anything like that. I tried to do a full reset by waiting until the car is in sleep mode, then disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Didn't seem to work though. Any other ideas than GM III, and how can I check it?
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:40 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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You may need to wait longer than that - perhaps 30 min plus.

Was the battery fully charged before you disconnected it?
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:36 PM
Phoenix39 Phoenix39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
You may need to wait longer than that - perhaps 30 min plus.

Was the battery fully charged before you disconnected it?
12.61v, so pretty close. I probably disconnected for an hour, so that shouldn't be the issue.
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Old 08-08-2016, 04:46 PM
u.nanimous u.nanimous is offline
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When you take them off (both cables), you should clamp them together for 10 minutes. Anything that doesn't reset after that is going to be a real problem.

If the key still doesn't work, a re-sync may be necessary - or a new battery.
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:06 PM
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TheAngryBear TheAngryBear is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix39 View Post
My battery died last winter and after I replaced it, several electrical problems appeared simultaneously (so I doubt they're just coincidental).
- window switches on driver's side don't work (only on passenger's side)
- electrical windows don't work
- AC don't work (fans work and the AC is on, but the air is hot)
- After the old battery died I had to use the key hole to get in, now every time I use the remote, nothing happens on the driver's door. I still need to use the key hole there...

I checked the fuses first but they were ok, so what do I do now?
Haven't delved much into this side of the vehicle so this will be "logic" based...
First clarity:
What do you mean that the passenger side switches work but the electrical Windows don't?
For the AC, have you validated all the dials are correct (neutral and open) and the aux fan is coming on?
For the window switches and drivers actuator: have you verified continuity and grounds?
Did you check the GM for any water damage?

Although all went at once I suspect you aren't experiencing GM failure rather a loss of a few elements which all seem to be routed through the drivers door. So I would pull the card and examine for water damage and/or electrical failures there. And then separately check the AC.
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