Ordering new key.

I'm thinking to order this key
http://www.ioffer.com/buy/uncut-us-v...ang93-10572734

Anybody bought a key from there??

Originally Posted by wegotseven

I'm thinking to order this key
http://www.ioffer.com/buy/uncut-us-v...ang93-10572734

Anybody bought a key from there??

So once you pay to have it cut how are you going to get it apart so you can install your EWS chip?

This key is not like the early ones you can just lift the chip out and change it over. It is attached to a circuit board.

First, you really should consider adding some car information to either a permanent signataure or in the area where car info can be typed in on the upper right of your messages. That way you can receive better information from those answering your questions. For instance, we don't know if this is even the correct key for your car...many new owners who need the old style key...think they can upgrade to the new style key...and if this is the case...all of our suggestions and post are for nothing...since one must stay with the same type of key the car came with unless you want to do a Frankenstein key which requires surgery and other things to make it work.

WARNING! There is so much incorrect information (or glossed over info) on their site that if you did NOT catch it...you need to read the DIY/FAQ threads on this forum that explains how EWS/FZV/DWA work and how all 3 systems are integrated into the remote keys. For instance, the BMW dealer does NOT cut keys, nor do they program the EWS chip...they order it from BMW NA (and the keys come with the EWS transponder already assigned the ISN (individual serial number) that is specific to your car's VIN. The dealerhsip only programs the FZV/DWA (keyless entry & alarm siren system) which you could do yourself with any comparable BMW key in less than 1 minute with the instructions that have been posted here on this forum many times (should be in the FAQ/DIY threads).

You're on your way to possibly spending money for a key that is not going to give you the final outcome you were hoping for.

It's bothersome when folks post Ebay links sans screenshots (they die so the thread will have less value in the future).

Here, for the record, is a screenshot of the link:

In addition, for the OP, doing a /key F3 in the bestlinks nets this, among others:
- Diamond key functions (1) & the truth about the BMW diamond key transponder (1) and proper initializing (1) (2) and the truth about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & opening, charging, recoding, & battery replacement (1) of the new-style diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & converting the old-style 1996-2000 "square" key to a diamond key (1) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the old style keys (1) (2) & what to do if your key is locked inside your car (1) & a description of the various types of BMW "Remote", "Illuminated", "Spare/Wallet", & "Valet/Service" keys (1) (2).

Dang!!! Help me guys
Last night I lost my key in Walmart and left my car there.
Should I bring my car to the dealership in order to program it or I can just buy new key??
Cuz the Walmart is too far away from my house(40miles away).
Quick reply plz

No...don't tow the car to the dealership...it will be a waste of money because they will still need to order a new key from BMW NA.

The only thing towing to the dealership will do is provide some sense of safety that if someone found your key at Walmart...they couldn't search the parking lot for your car. But as you've posted...the remote isn't working so they'd have to physically insert the key into the door lock cylinder to find out if the key works. More than likely they won't do that...they'll just press the remote button looking for your car (which won't work).

See the other thread you started about losing your key in Walmart's parking lot. I gave a list of the keys w/part nbrs & prices etc. that can help you get this sorted out.

This time, buy TWO keys...you should have a back-up/spare/emergency key...and you can get the plastic key, illuminated key, or spare key for not much money compared to the more expensive remote key.

Originally Posted by QSilver7

they couldn't search the parking lot for your car

If I had found the key, and, if I had wanted a spare parts bimmer in my garage, I'd wait till Walmart closed ... and in the parking lot ... would be all the spare parts I could use!

I don't know about your part of the country...but here...most Walmarts are open 24 hours...plus they video the parking lot. They also allow people in trailers & motor homes to park in the outer lot overnight...or if needing to stop and rest etc. Only caveat is that they are restricted from running generators etc (can't run a small campsite on their parking lot)...but you can stop, shop, rest, eat etc using the stuff on the inside of your motor home/trailer.

God bless Sam Walton & family.

Originally Posted by QSilver7

No...don't tow the car to the dealership...it will be a waste of money because they will still need to order a new key from BMW NA.

The only thing towing to the dealership will do is provide some sense of safety that if someone found your key at Walmart...they couldn't search the parking lot for your car. But as you've posted...the remote isn't working so they'd have to physically insert the key into the door lock cylinder to find out if the key works. More than likely they won't do that...they'll just press the remote button looking for your car (which won't work).

See the other thread you started about losing your key in Walmart's parking lot. I gave a list of the keys w/part nbrs & prices etc. that can help you get this sorted out.

This time, buy TWO keys...you should have a back-up/spare/emergency key...and you can get the plastic key, illuminated key, or spare key for not much money compared to the more expensive remote key.

Thank you so much.
I did order new key in this morning and wating. The dealership charged me about 250 thou.

Ok.. I am coming back here cause I am confused.. To provide back ground, last Friday, went to get in my 00 528i and the key wouldn't unlock the doors remotely, so I thought well maybe the battery.. got in the car and wouldn't start.. gigged the steering wheel and got it to start.. so I thought well it must be the battery, so I read somewhere on here that you can simply replace the battery and then reprogram the key and all is good..

SO I bought batteries, sat there for 20 mins and could not jar loose the key.. I am thinking damn this thing is superglued together.. I think come back on here to review the instructions to make sure I was doing it right and then realized that perhaps my key battery can't be replaced and I have to buy a new one at $160-$180... My question is is that true or is there a way to open the damn thing and replace the battery..

Here is a picture of my key.. any suggestions, recommendations, etc..

Originally Posted by wegotseven

I'm thinking to order this key
http://www.ioffer.com/buy/uncut-us-v...ang93-10572734

Anybody bought a key from there??

then everything will work!!

Originally Posted by tanders922

Here is a picture of my key.. any suggestions, recommendations, etc..

Did you follow this DIY write up?

Yes, it is sealed with epoxy as your diamond key is charged by induction at the ignition switch so the battery is soldered to the circuit board.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=315311

Just bought my son a 2002 530i dsc and brake/abs light are off when I start the car, then after driving for awhile they both come on? The dealer who sold us the car says it's because the car hasn't been driven in a couple of months and the indicator lights will go off eventually. My mechanic says they tried to clear the codes and they came right back on and the abs parts are $960 or $2750!? (not including labor) just wondering if anyone has experience with this and advice on how I might be able to resolve this issue the most economically?

Originally Posted by Nic 528i

Just bought my son a 2002 530i dsc and brake/abs light are off when I start the car, then after driving for awhile they both come on? The dealer who sold us the car says it's because the car hasn't been driven in a couple of months and the indicator lights will go off eventually. My mechanic says they tried to clear the codes and they came right back on and the abs parts are $960 or $2750!? (not including labor) just wondering if anyone has experience with this and advice on how I might be able to resolve this issue the most economically?

Welcome to the forum.

Suggest in the future you start a new thread with such a question as it has NOTHING to do with ordering a new key and can easily get buried here.

You can start here for your ABS issue. Could be as simple as a bad ABS sensor (one of two on driver front hub or passenger side rear hub) or a more serious ABS module issue.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=541000

In the future, you might want to bookmark this list of DIY/issues:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...8&postcount=38

my apologies, first time here, thank you for your pointing me in the right direction.

Well I got the back end of the key open but stopped cause I felt like I was breaking it.. but will try again! Is there a cheap way to buy another key?

Originally Posted by QSilver7

here...most Walmarts are open 24 hours...plus they video the parking lot.

It's the same here (not sure about the video); my point to the OP was that if someone had the key, they had the car (were they so inclined).

So, there was no 'security' in the bimmer being hidden in the parking lot.

The real security is that very few people would drive off in someone else's car simply because they found the key to it.

Originally Posted by wegotseven

I did order new key in this morning

Great. Please let us know what happens.

Originally Posted by wegotseven

The dealership charged me about 250 thou.

I first read that as "250 thousand"!

What a difference a 'gh' makes!

Originally Posted by tanders922

is there a way to open the damn thing and replace the battery

This question has nothing to do, per se, with this thread but this question is PERFECT for the other threads I referenced prior (on 08-24-2011 10:58 PM).

My suggestion:
- Click on the appropriate thread in those links and ask your question there.
- Not only will that make more sense ...
- But it will add to the value of that thread for anyone else looking for how to open their key

Thanks for understanding.

Originally Posted by dvsgene

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=315311

Just to make sure, I checked if this link was in the bestlinks reference - and - it was ... so that's good to know (and nothing more for me to add).

Originally Posted by Nic 528i

dsc and brake/abs light ... both come on?

Huh?

My neighbor's cat spit up a fur ball today; but I wouldn't ask questions about it in this thread.

If you have ABS/BRAKE/DSC issues (and, we all do as it's one of the most common ailments of the E39), simply go to the bestlinks and do a thread search for ABS.

One of the first links you'll find about the trifecta is here:
- E39 ABS DIY

Originally Posted by tanders922

Is there a cheap way to buy another key?

Isn't that actually already answered in the posts in this thread?

Here's what I suggest you do:

1. Re-read this thread
2. Summarize the suggestions for obtaining a new key
3. List the price for each method listed in this thread

That will take you, oh, about ten minutes.

Then post the results. At the very least, you'll have found your answer; at the very best, people will hone your answer (and others will benefit).

It's all about adding value.

Originally Posted by bluebee

If I had found the key, and, if I had wanted a spare parts bimmer in my garage, I'd wait till Walmart closed ... and in the parking lot ... would be all the spare parts I could use!

Blue, I would never expect you to say something like that ,lol.

Originally Posted by tanders922

Ok.. I am coming back here cause I am confused.. To provide back ground, last Friday, went to get in my 00 528i and the key wouldn't unlock the doors remotely, so I thought well maybe the battery.. got in the car and wouldn't start.. gigged the steering wheel and got it to start.. so I thought well it must be the battery, so I read somewhere on here that you can simply replace the battery and then reprogram the key and all is good..

SO I bought batteries, sat there for 20 mins and could not jar loose the key.. I am thinking damn this thing is superglued together.. I think come back on here to review the instructions to make sure I was doing it right and then realized that perhaps my key battery can't be replaced and I have to buy a new one at $160-$180... My question is is that true or is there a way to open the damn thing and replace the battery..

Here is a picture of my key.. any suggestions, recommendations, etc..

I don't know why it hasn't been stated already but, a dead battery in your key fob will not stop your car from cranking.

Originally Posted by 530iman

a dead battery in your key fob will not stop your car from cranking.

I've never had a dead battery in my key (diamond style) fob; but I've had bad trunk wires (which prevented the trunk unlock from actuating electrically, with or without the key) ... so I wonder about this dead-battery stuff.

My question:

If I DID have a dead battery in my key, what WOULD work and what would NOT work?

Originally Posted by bluebee

I've never had a dead battery in my key (diamond style) fob; but I've had bad trunk wires (which prevented the trunk unlock from actuating electrically, with or without the key) ... so I wonder about this dead-battery stuff.

My question:

If I DID have a dead battery in my key, what WOULD work and what would NOT work?

I replaced my battery with a energizer but it wasn't charging and the battery was toast, no remote functions like using the fob to pop the trunk, unlock and lock doors, windows down all don't work but sticking the key in the door rolls windows up and down and locks and unlocks the trunk and doors without the extra turn. My car crank and drove away as long as the circuit board was present in the fob. I was curious and tried without the battery just half a fob and it cranks and performs the functions I mentioned earlier. From my experience that battery is used just for remote functions, nothing else someone else chime in if I'm wrong. I'm sure I'm not as I have driven with half a fob, due to an emergency.

...here it is again...an FYI for those who didn't know...

The remote keys (old & new) contains THREE features that are each distinct yet function in concert:

1. EWS - immobilizing drive-a-way-protection which is self powered and DOES NOT require the battery inside the key...this feature shuts down ignition, starter, fuel injection, if the ISN (individual serial number) code is not recognized by all of the EWS components that are coded and/or that facilitates starting the car (transponder chip in key, EWS control module, DME/ECU, Ring Antenna). This feature makes your car keys UNIQUE to your car only based on its VIN & ISN (only BMW NA or AG or whatever the HQ for your BMW market is...has the ISN specific to your car).
2. FBZV - keyless entry system...is tied into the regular central locking system (FZV) and allows remote locking/unlocking of the car and other central locking features (remote window roll down & up if car is so programmed). This feature requires the key inside the battery to operate and can be programmed to other BMWs that have the same frequency and receiver.
3. DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system...this feature activates the anti theft alarm siren and sensors (hood/doors/trunk/interior/tilt) and the PANIC mode feature is tied into the DWA system. This feature also requires the battery inside the key to be powered and this feature can also be coded to other BMWs that have the same frequency and equipment as your car.

Transponders & Transmitters: they are not the same.

EWS uses a transponder inside the key (old style) and soldered to the IC board (new style)...and a transponder receives as well as sends data. Again, the EWS system is self powered...a 125 KHz AM signal is sent from the EWS control module to the Ring Antenna, which then induces power to the EWS transponder inside the key which sends back its ISN...with the end result being self powered communication between all the EWS components..allowing the car to start. No power from the key is required.

FBZV & DWA uses a transmitter inside the key...a transmitter is sending info/data...in this case, info/data is sent from the key to the aerial in the rear window which then sends that signal to the diversity antenna module/receiver located in the left C-pillar. From there the data is sent to the GM over the communication BUS system (to unlock the car and to turn off the alarm siren). This transmission requires the battery inside the key to transmit that data to the car.

Originally Posted by Nic 528i

Just bought my son a 2002 530i dsc and brake/abs light are off when I start the car, then after driving for awhile they both come on? The dealer who sold us the car says it's because the car hasn't been driven in a couple of months and the indicator lights will go off eventually. My mechanic says they tried to clear the codes and they came right back on and the abs parts are $960 or $2750!? (not including labor) just wondering if anyone has experience with this and advice on how I might be able to resolve this issue the most economically?

I had the same problem. I had a bad wheel break sensor and my front end needed alignment. If your steering wheel is off center so many degrees it will effect the computor reading and thus cause the system to show a malfunction.