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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 09-02-2011, 12:05 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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The whole idea of this thread is not to move the strut.
Therefore re-use the bolts.
As I mentioned above, the BMW dealer tech re-use the bolts all the time, zero problems.
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  #27  
Old 09-02-2011, 12:11 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
champaign,

Were you able to remove/replace all the hub bolts or did you have to leave the front lower one in there and re-use it (with loctite red or ...)?
no reuse of any bolts
as Cam mentioned it is not require with red loctite

GL

Last edited by champaign777; 09-02-2011 at 12:13 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-02-2011, 12:23 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
no reuse of any bolts
as Cam mentioned it is not require with red loctite

GL

While this is true, back in 2008 when I replaced my hub bearings, the cost of each bolt WITH loctite from the factory was $1.50 each. A small tube of loctite cost $5 - $10. I tend to use blue loctite more than red loctite so any extra would just dry up.

So 8 bolts with the loctite cost me $12 vs a tube for $5-$10.

I opted for the 8 bolts. The ~$4 was my cost of piece of mind.

Last edited by dvsgene; 09-02-2011 at 12:30 PM.
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  #29  
Old 09-02-2011, 01:08 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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I missed the mention about re-using the old bolts, sorry.

Let me re-frame my question.

I understand that it's possible to re-use the old bolts but in this application (without removing the strut), is there any other choice?

I can see that at least the two rear-side hub bolts can be backed out and replaced with new, but what about the front-side two that are already difficult to reach? On my Sachs-strut-equipped car, it looks as though the front two cannot be backed straight out even after the hub has been removed. Am I wrong?
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2011, 01:10 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsgene View Post
While this is true, back in 2008 when I replaced my hub bearings, the cost of each bolt WITH loctite from the factory was $1.50 each. A small tube of loctite cost $5 - $10. I tend to use blue loctite more than red loctite so any extra would just dry up.

So 8 bolts with the loctite cost me $12 vs a tube for $5-$10.

I opted for the 8 bolts. The ~$4 was my cost of piece of mind.
I think people misread my thread, the whole idea about this thread is not to save money on the 4 bolts, this DIY was written to:

a- avoid the need to lower the knuckle (to expose the bolts).

b- avoid the need to undo the thrust arm/control arm to lower the knuckle.
Also the swaybar endlink disconnection etc.

c- avoid wasting time to do above #a and #b.

d- avoid alignment cost.
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  #31  
Old 09-02-2011, 01:19 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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cn90, don't fret. I see all the benefits of your DIY. I was just wondering about the possibility of using new hub bolts, or not.
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  #32  
Old 09-02-2011, 01:22 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_n00b13 View Post
I don't suppose anyone with a 540 can chip in on whether this method applies there?

Nope. Knuckle is different for the 540i. (Same as M5.) Also strut tube on the 540 is wider/thicker to accommodate the heavier front end.
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  #33  
Old 09-15-2011, 11:30 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Update,

On bimmerforums, Black540Msport shaved a standard 18-mm socket and were able to replace his Front Bearing (for his 2000 540i) with ease:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1705239


Here is the picture of shaved down 18-mm socket:

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  #34  
Old 09-21-2011, 01:04 PM
jcal jcal is offline
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Can you tell me if the wheel speed sensor "trigger" is located in/on this bearing. I've been fighting the three light beast for a while now. I've checked the module (Modulemasters rebuild and sent it back for a check) and it is good. Tested the sensors via the loom and they all read the same via diode check. 1.62 +- .02 one way and 1.0 the other way. New ones were exactly the same. I'm thinking this bearing (or sensor "trigger") is either bad or dirty and would like to know if you have any insight into this.
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  #35  
Old 09-21-2011, 01:11 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcal View Post
Can you tell me if the wheel speed sensor "trigger" is located in/on this bearing. I've been fighting the three light beast for a while now. I've checked the module (Modulemasters rebuild and sent it back for a check) and it is good. Tested the sensors via the loom and they all read the same via diode check. 1.62 +- .02 one way and 1.0 the other way. New ones were exactly the same. I'm thinking this bearing (or sensor "trigger") is either bad or dirty and would like to know if you have any insight into this.
As you know the sensor is mounted in the knuckle reading the movement of the bearing assembly. There have been reports of issues with using assemblies other than the likes F.A.G. or Koyo. If you've replaced the sensors, I would ask what brand of bearing did you buy. Additionally have you inspected the other sensors on the other corners?
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  #36  
Old 09-21-2011, 01:39 PM
jcal jcal is offline
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I have not yet replaced the bearings themselves but that is where I think the problem may lie. I've checked all the sensors (per the paper clip method) and they have all the same readings. When Modulemasters sent the ABS module back they said it contained a code of LF Wheel Speed Sensor. I have all dash functionality which is from what I've read and indication of the LF sensor. But because the test measurements indicate all sensors are good (the same for all installed sensors and the two new ones I was going to install) Im leaning towards the "trigger" on the bearing. When I pulled the LF sensor to clean it I noticed quite a bit of what I thought may be some type of oxidation which if coating the bearing also may be inhibiting the sensor from picking up a reading. Just trying a few things before I break down and buy the sensor only ot have it read bad also. Does anybody know of a method to reset the systems without going to the dealer and using his machine?
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  #37  
Old 09-21-2011, 02:31 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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how about
disconnect battery
run errors clean in GT1

Last edited by champaign777; 09-21-2011 at 02:33 PM.
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  #38  
Old 11-03-2011, 12:51 PM
MrTrouble MrTrouble is offline
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I am going to be tackling my front bearings this weekend on my '98 540. Curious, has anyone tried (or is it even possible) to remove the 3 "non Troublemaker" bolts and actually rotating the entire bearing on the last bolt to remove it? I know it sounds crazy and you would, at some point, need to brace the head of the bolt from the backside to keep it from spinning, but I was just curious.
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  #39  
Old 04-25-2012, 06:52 AM
aioros aioros is offline
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I just did the front brakes and noticed the wheel bearings are bad, I will do this ASAP. Thanks so much for all the information. I will have all the special tools on hand to remove the "trouble maker" bolt lol
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  #40  
Old 04-26-2012, 09:54 PM
aioros aioros is offline
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I tried to change the wheel bearing in the passenger side but I failed
The "trouble maker" bolt was easy to lossen up by grinding the 18mm socket but the bolt below was another story. I bought the Deep offset box wrench from sears but it is not deep enough
but I have a solution in mind
I will cut that wrench and weld another piece of metal to make it deeper
So 'til next weekend

Sent from my MB860 using Bimmer App
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  #41  
Old 06-15-2012, 05:52 AM
Westlakeoh1 Westlakeoh1 is offline
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Cn90, great post. Just finished and replaced front passenger side and soon to start driver side today. Also thanks to champaign777 tip of cutting down the 18mm recess rench for those of us that have the Sachs strut. I also ended up cutting down my 18mm short socket for the "trouble maker" bolt as it was actually easier to turn than the bolt below that needed the recess wrench. Thanks again for all the tremendous instructions.
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  #42  
Old 08-24-2012, 10:35 AM
gtmason gtmason is offline
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Thumbs up Custom 18mm Socket for Sachs

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I wonder for those with Sachs, you can make your own socket.
Just buy a generic 18mm socket for $5 and use an angle grinder (it takes about 5-10 min to cut it to the shape below) to make something like this, it should fit in that tight space:


I have the Sachs struts-- so the short socket technique does not work for the lower bolt. I was able to grind down an 18mm deep socket like shown in this picture, the only difference is on the wrench side I removed more metal for better clearance . I used a pair of vise grips to hold the socket while grinding on a bench grinder and cooled it in a glass of water every couple of minutes so that the metal would not lose its temper (took about 25 mins on a bench grinder.) For someone that does not have an offset 18mm wrench to modify it worked great!
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  #43  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:32 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For cross reference, bearing information from cn90 & others is in this thread today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Timken front wheel bearing #

EDIT: This came up today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

That thread contained two new links:
- Instructions for Changing E39 Wheel bearings
- Diagnosing bad wheel bearings
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Note: Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!

Last edited by bluebee; 12-05-2012 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Added references.
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  #44  
Old 02-16-2013, 12:49 PM
Dnormand Dnormand is offline
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2001 E39 Wheel Bearing

I just competed my passenger side front wheel bearing replacement. It was so bad it sounded like I was driving on studded snow tires.

The image below explains the process I used to remove the lower bolt. The strut bolt had to be loosened so that wheel bearing could be lowered. It is really easy as long as you make sure to mark the strut before so you can realign it. I used my jack to raise it once I had replaced the bearing. Riding smooth as "butta" now. Thanks for the original post. It really saved me a lot of money.
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  #45  
Old 02-16-2013, 01:15 PM
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DPP528 DPP528 is offline
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To OP, great writeup, I'll use this when the time comes; I notice you have Bilstien shocks on your car, I have a few questions about them as I have the same car (mine's sport) and I desperately need to overhaul my suspension:

Are they Bilstein HD's or Sports?

Do they ruin the ride?

Do they lower or raise the ride height of the stock (non-sport) suspension?

What kind of springs are you using?

Do they handle much better than stock? If so, is it worth potentially compromising the ride quality?


Sorry about being so terse about my questions, and thanks!
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  #46  
Old 02-17-2013, 01:58 PM
Dnormand Dnormand is offline
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Loosen Strut Bold

Why didn't you just loosen the strut bolt?
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  #47  
Old 04-24-2013, 11:59 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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CN90,

I noticed you used loctite 275. After a google, there are very few choices to buy that, at least in small quantities. I did found 271 and 272 red. Are you familiar with 271, 272 and 275? I'm wondering if 271 will be good enough. it's readily available.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37421-...ds=red+loctite
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  #48  
Old 04-24-2013, 12:31 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I think any Red Loctite is fine.
Check local hardware stores, they sell Loctite in small tubes.
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  #49  
Old 07-02-2013, 03:12 AM
Splitbusvanatic Splitbusvanatic is offline
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Thanks Very Much for your write up.
Saved me a lot of time doing my front wheel bearing.
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  #50  
Old 07-02-2013, 07:09 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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No locktite
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