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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 03-31-2012, 06:34 AM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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I take a hard left turn in my 2001 530i and I am hearing a grinding sound with increasing intensity (louder). There is also a quiet whistle on accelleration.
Thinking 1. Wheal Bearings and 2 vaccuum leak.
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  #52  
Old 03-31-2012, 06:36 AM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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Mein Auto: 2010 M3
Autoparts 123cot com doesn't offer the Timken bearings listed by CN90; as I get this:

Ordered Items










SKU

Brand

Description

QTY

Price

Total



799-0270

GMB




Wheel Bearing
rear ; 1 Per Veh;bearing



Vehicle:

2001 BMW 530i L6-2979cc 3.0L F/I V


2

$ 31.69

$ 63.38



799-0149

GMB




Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
front ; 1 Per Veh;bearing



Vehicle:

2001 BMW 530i L6-2979cc 3.0L F/I V


2

$ 49.69

$ 99.38





*Orders shipped to OH are subject to city, county and/or state taxes.
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94 530i sold (That was difficult for me)
01 530i >144,500+ miles SOLD
06 330XI winter's especially fun drive (SOLD)
10 M3 Sedan (sweet)
13 Nissan GT-R Black Edition
14 Porsche Cayenne Platinum Diesel

BMWCCA 4215
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  #53  
Old 03-31-2012, 06:37 AM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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I also get this on autoparts 123 for the front:

799-0149

GMB




Axle Bearing And Hub Assembly
front ; 1 Per Veh;bearing



Vehicle:

2001 BMW 530i L6-2979cc 3.0L F/I V


2

$ 49.69

$ 99.38
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94 530i sold (That was difficult for me)
01 530i >144,500+ miles SOLD
06 330XI winter's especially fun drive (SOLD)
10 M3 Sedan (sweet)
13 Nissan GT-R Black Edition
14 Porsche Cayenne Platinum Diesel

BMWCCA 4215
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  #54  
Old 03-31-2012, 06:39 AM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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These are the same part numbers on Timken show me the parts

I do find Timken here at US autoparts but quite a price difference and no 20% allowed on the promotion statement

























































Shopping Cart You're a step closer to a better vehicle


Continue ShoppingProceed to Checkout.

Items in Your Cart



Your Item(s)

Item Price

Core Deposit

Quantity

Price







Wheel Bearing

SKU: TM512225
In Stock: Usually ships within 24 hours


$52.59

$0.00


remove

$105.18







Wheel Hub

SKU: TMHA593427
In Stock: Usually ships within 24 hours


$105.20

$0.00


remove

$210.40


Save Quote

Subtotal (4 items) $315.58.
Shipping Total: $6.67.
Handling Total:$5.58.
Estimated Tax: $0.00.
Total Core Deposit: $0.00.


Order Total $327.83.
.

.
.



Have a coupon code? Add it here





The coupon EASY20 has been applied to your cart. However, the items in your cart do not meet the coupons requirements.







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94 530i sold (That was difficult for me)
01 530i >144,500+ miles SOLD
06 330XI winter's especially fun drive (SOLD)
10 M3 Sedan (sweet)
13 Nissan GT-R Black Edition
14 Porsche Cayenne Platinum Diesel

BMWCCA 4215
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  #55  
Old 03-31-2012, 06:41 AM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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Mein Auto: 2010 M3
Sorry about my poor way of communication here in the series of posts. Can someone here give me advice on what to order and where.

Thanks!!!!!
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94 530i sold (That was difficult for me)
01 530i >144,500+ miles SOLD
06 330XI winter's especially fun drive (SOLD)
10 M3 Sedan (sweet)
13 Nissan GT-R Black Edition
14 Porsche Cayenne Platinum Diesel

BMWCCA 4215
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 04-04-2012, 07:11 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalekressin View Post
Sorry about my poor way of communication here in the series of posts. Can someone here give me advice on what to order and where.

Thanks!!!!!
It was discussed in the first thread. Vendors keep changing their stocks, so you have to google the PNs.

REAR Bearing ---> TIMKEN 512225

FRONT Bearing ----> TIMKEN HA593427:
http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?p=6282984
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  #57  
Old 06-19-2012, 06:45 AM
RAZ1777 RAZ1777 is offline
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F.A.G. bearings pre-greased?

Great DYI. I was concerned about doing it untill I read your DYI here. Thanks.

Do the F.A.G. bearings come pre-greased? If not what kind of non-BMW grease is recomenned?

Thanks,
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  #58  
Old 06-28-2012, 04:00 PM
Cunnia2000 Cunnia2000 is offline
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E39 added tip if having trouble inserting spline into wheel hub

cn90 - GREAT article, used it just this week. Here is a tip that worked for me.. I too had issues pushing the spline into my right wheel hub when I replaced the bearing but went to Autozone bought a can of spray refrigerant, sprayed the spline (only) and it slipped right in...
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  #59  
Old 06-28-2012, 04:51 PM
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Topaz540i Topaz540i is offline
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i found amazon had the best bearing price for timken brand last month.

for parts price comparison across the most popular bmw parts sites type the part number into furiousmethod.com
furiousmethod has saved me a nice amount of money a few times now finding some other site with oem brand parts at a way better price.
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  #60  
Old 02-03-2013, 09:35 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
It is a common procedure for Torque-to-yield (TTY) bolts such as cylinder head etc.
I had to look up what TTY meant, so I added it to the glossary for others to benefit:
- BMW E39 technoterms, acronyms, glossary, definitions slang, technical terms, abbreviations (1)

Here's what I added:
TTY = Torque to Yield bolts, fasteners designed to be torqued to the point of plastic deformation (never reuse them)

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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #61  
Old 02-20-2013, 02:17 PM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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I was wondering can a 2 jaw puller be used in place of the outer tie rod removal tool?
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  #62  
Old 02-24-2013, 10:35 PM
ztitans1 ztitans1 is offline
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I should have known the "1 hour" estimate of time would not work for me. I had to beat the crap out of the rotor with a rubber mallet and eventually it broke loose. I was stuck for nearly an hour on just this step. I was able to get 3 of the 4 bolts on the back of the flange loose, but as ALWAYS the last bolt was my nemesis. I have not been able to loosen the final bolt. I am going to grind through the flange leaving the one tab of the housing on the bolt and hope I can grip the remaining piece of the tab to get it loose from the bolt.

Why do they use the E-14 bolts, would a 6 sided bolt hit the CV boot or something? It would be so much simpler to just have a hex shaped regular bolt in there, as the E14 socket keeps slipping on me as I try to loosen the final bolt.

It is late so I will finish after work tomorrow. I need to use my grinder and it will be loud.
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  #63  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:02 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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ztitans1,

You need to create more space for the E14 socket.
Another tip: TIGHTEN the bolt a bit, then LOOSEN it.
You may want to use a propane torch to heat the OLD Bearing holes, this will loosen the loctite to make removal easier.
If you remove the Parking Brake shoes, you will clearly see the OLD Bearing holes x4 for heating it.
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  #64  
Old 02-25-2013, 01:55 PM
ztitans1 ztitans1 is offline
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Thank you. I wound up cutting the old bearing housing with a hack saw leaving only the tab with the bolt in it. It came off the easier after that. The head was just too boogered up to get a good bite on it. I have it back together now with new collar screws & hub bearing. I just need to jack it back up after torquing the axle nut to remove the wheel so I can bend the tabs back in.

Three things I would add to this brilliant post:
1) I found that the E14 socket is not as snug as my old 12 pt 7/16" socket for some reason.
2) The tools to pull the axle shaft through the splines described above are unnecessary. I was able to grap the boot behind the hub and hold the shaft in place while gently tapping the hub with a rubber mallet to get it down the shaft far enough to expose enough threads to start the axle nut.
3) Removal of the emergency brake and backing plate made it much easier to access the bearing housing collar screws in limited space.

Thank you for the great write up. I could not have done this job without the help from all of you who contributed.
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  #65  
Old 02-25-2013, 01:57 PM
ztitans1 ztitans1 is offline
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Oh one more thing CN, my neighbor says you are brilliant with using the grinder to cut the notches in the inner race to remove it. It worked like a champ!
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  #66  
Old 04-07-2013, 11:34 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, this was posted elsewhere today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelgk View Post
I thought it would be right to start a new thread here.

Have been searching the forum the last few days to get a list of all the bushes that can/ought be replaced at the rear for a complete over haul of the rear suspension. There are several posts for "How to replace the suspension" meaning shox, sway bars, ball joint, springs etc, but very few that lists how to replace the rest of the parts such as guding links, rear wish bones etc. Maybe because it is a simple job.

What is really intriguing is that, last week when I was looking at all the bushes that need to be replaced (to correct the rear wheel wobble), there is no single thread where all this was put together, while you can find several threads on the front suspension listing all possible bushes and parts that can/should be replaced.

So starting with my small contribution here, can the more knowledgeable members add on the other part nos: as well..

1. The Ball joints are : 33326767748
2. The Guiding suspension Link: 33326768791
3. The WishbonesL/R are: 33326767831
4. The Intergal links are : 3332670749 (is this for the full link with the rubber bush at one end or just the metal link pipe? Need clarification.

Missing from RealOEM and any other reference is the part nos: of the two bushes on each of the Rear Swing part (33326755471/2).

What are the other bushes that ought to be looked up?

Please add on and assist...Thank you all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I've never touched my rear suspension but if I were to, I'd start with any DIY written by cn90 (so my first advice is for you to look at his threads for all the detail you could want).

In addition, I would type /suspension F3 in the bestlinks, which nets, among others, these threads and pdfs:
- BMW_suspension_systems_training_all_BMW_including_ E39.pdf (1.31 MB, 133 views)
- How to replace rear wheel bearings (1) (2) (3) & a rear axle suspension & wheel bearing installation DIY by mmm635 (1) (2) & rear bearings done the cn90 easy way (1) or the Smolck slide-hammer way (1)
- How does the touring rear suspension differ from the sedan rear suspension (1)
etc.

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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #67  
Old 04-08-2013, 01:12 AM
Joelgk Joelgk is offline
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Thanks Bluebee. As always your guidance is much appreciated.

I did search the forum, all the links including those of cn90 for the last few days and only then posted my new thread.

What you have marked as the Lower Arm/ wishbone is the Rear Swing Part ( (33326755471/2) in aluminium that houses the integral link at one end and two bushes at the opp end. There are no part nos: for these two bushes. Now if this is the lower arm, then the whole aluminium body has to be replaced and that is indeed ridiculously expensive. Am sure, we dont want to do that.
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  #68  
Old 04-08-2013, 12:46 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelgk View Post
There are no part nos: for these two bushes.
Bushings.

Does this answer below help?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Here's a thread that's been focused on the "missing bushings" issue.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=399935

You might take a look at the recent posts there.

The two bushings on the inner pivots of the swing arm (trailing arm) are not sold separately by BMW for the e39, hence you won't find part numbers for them.

ECS Tuning sells these bushings for the E53 swing arms. I've been wondering if they're the same.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5-...ngs/ES2588152/
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5-...ngs/ES2588160/
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #69  
Old 04-09-2013, 01:21 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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dvsgene did you manage to replace the rear wheel bearings following cn90 guide? I'm interested because I'm going to tackle this in the near future. RR wheel bearing is totally shot on my 540.
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  #70  
Old 04-09-2013, 04:21 PM
firehawk17 firehawk17 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
dvsgene did you manage to replace the rear wheel bearings following cn90 guide? I'm interested because I'm going to tackle this in the near future. RR wheel bearing is totally shot on my 540.
i just did this saturday that just passed and its not bad at all... having the right tools makes it easy.. i would say the most challenging part could be pulling the inner race off...i didnt have a bearing puller so i got creative and got it off...other than that it was pretty straight forward..
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  #71  
Old 04-11-2013, 05:54 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawk17 View Post
i just did this saturday that just passed and its not bad at all... having the right tools makes it easy.. i would say the most challenging part could be pulling the inner race off...i didnt have a bearing puller so i got creative and got it off...other than that it was pretty straight forward..
Well you got I6 and I got V8.. Some V8 owners have had trouble doing it this way (link). So I just want to make sure to have all the tools needed for the job. I followed cn90 front wheel bearing guide and what you know V8 got larger shock absorbers so I couldn't do it like cn90 did on his I6..
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  #72  
Old 06-07-2013, 11:34 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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I replaced RR wheel bearing following this DIY on my 540. Great guide cn90! You must be really good with a wrench, if it only took you 1 hour per side. Everything was stuck so badly on my car that it was pita to take it apart. To give you an idea I almost broke my 26" 1/2" breaker bar removing the 36mm nut (used 6 ft steel pipe and still was really hard to get it going), I had to use 11 lbs sledgehammer to remove the brake disk etc.

Only thing that went easy was pushing in the axle. That was most likely do to a week long penetrating oil soak.
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  #73  
Old 12-22-2013, 06:48 AM
Juan P Juan P is offline
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Approx how far axle moves in with Gear puller

- Using the 3-Jaw Gear Puller, push the Axle inward until it stops. Do not force it further.

Cn 90 , thanks for a great Thread !! I was stupid enough to strip the threads of the integral link mounting bolt on the Wheel bearing carrier and am using your thread to dismantle all to remove damaged wheel bearing carrier Everything thus far going to plan but not having luck getting Axle moved inward with the Gear puller - seems not to move . Must I spray with W40 and leave overnight ? When I get it to move , by approx. how much should it move inward until it stops ?
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  #74  
Old 12-22-2013, 12:01 PM
JimLev JimLev is online now
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Have you cleaned the splines on the axle and the hub? They need to be shiny clean or you'll have problems getting the axle in far enough for the threads to stick out. Don't forget to use some oil on the splines.
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  #75  
Old 12-24-2013, 08:51 AM
Juan P Juan P is offline
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Hi , thanks for the reply , yes have used a lot of oil (WD40 - is the only resonable oil available in South Africa , cant get PB Blaster) . Problem is I am trying to get it apart - trying to push the splines back towards diff's side . Think you are refering to when I put it back , then all has to be shiny . I stay at least 700km from the coast and we never have snow so puzzled as to why these parts are so badly stuck!

Last edited by Juan P; 12-24-2013 at 08:59 AM.
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