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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #1  
Old 01-28-2016, 04:52 PM
ronamatron ronamatron is offline
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Location: Minnesota
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2004 BMW X3
2004 X3 No Heat while idling

2004 X3 2.5i
125K miles

I feel like I've read through dozens of forums with similar issues and fixes and none of them have worked for me so far. If there is post already up that describes my issue please point me toward it.

I live in Northern Minnesota and heat is very important to me. When it stopped working I checked the fluid level which was fine. From there I check and replaced a few other things.

I blew out the heater core and found no blockages.
Replaced heater valve control. Tested if the control was getting power (which it is).
Replaced the thermostat.
The water pump was replaced at 115K.
And yes, I have checked the wheel on the dash that mixes air.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-28-2016, 06:19 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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Location: New Orleans
 
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Posts: 2,226
Mein Auto: bmw++many
valve control ????

did you pop the actual valve out and do a visual to see if it actuated with 12 volts applied ????

when you say "valve control" .....did you replace it or clean it or are you talking about the IHKA control panel in the X3 dash ????

have you bled the system ?????


have you jumped the connection to keep the heater valve open all the time ????
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  #3  
Old 01-28-2016, 06:31 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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Location: New Orleans
 
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is the inlet to heater core hot at idle and great pelican link

is the line downstream of your heater control valve going to the heater core still nice and hot.....or does it go cold at idle indicating a closed valve ?????

this next text and link is close to your system apart from the electrical drive coolant pump....a good guide on using a multi meter for some system checks

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-E60/32-WATER-Heater_Valve_Testing_and_Replacement/32-WATER-Heater_Valve_Testing_and_Replacement.htm

Heater valve in left rear of engine compartment; controls the flow of hot coolant to the heater core inside the HVAC housing underneath the center dashboard.

AC compressor in the engine compartment; driven by engine accessory belt.

Blower motor underneath the dashboard behind the glove compartment; motor speed modulated using the blower final stage.

Front and rear air outlets; nearly a dozen electric stepper motors attached to vent flaps control the flow of fresh or recirculated cold and warm air to windshield, face-level vents, foot wells and rear compartment.

Engine cooling fan; IHKA microprocessor and engine control module (ECM) determine operation and speed of cooling fan.

Coolant pump; on N52 and N54 engine, IHKA microprocessor and engine control module (ECM) determine operation and speed of coolant pump.

The heater control valve controls the flow of hot coolant to the heater core. If your vehicle has no heat and the cooling system is properly bled, the valve may be faulty (stuck closed). You may also have a situation where the vehicle has heat all the time. This may be a valve that is stuck open. In this tech article, I will show you how to test your heater control valve and replace it if necessary. Aside from mechanical failure, the heating problems in your car may also be caused by a malfunction in the electronics of IHKA. A dedicated BMW scan tool can read fault codes off the HVAC system. But I'll show you some simple tests of the system that you can do using a DVOM.

Last edited by swampX3; 01-28-2016 at 06:33 PM.
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  #4  
Old 01-28-2016, 06:44 PM
swampX3 swampX3 is offline
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a good comment

JFT Comments: Useful note: The valve is a solenoid which when not powered is by default OPEN. Therefore, if you have no heat in the cabin, try unplugging the power. If this restores heat to the cabin then you have a control issue i.e. the valve is being told to shut by the ECU - most likely cause is the cabin temperature sensor. If unplugging it makes no difference then it is likely that the valve is seized shut.
December 18, 2015
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts

or the valve could be sticking
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2016, 07:18 PM
ronamatron ronamatron is offline
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Location: Minnesota
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
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Mein Auto: 2004 BMW X3
Thanks swampx3! To answer a few of your questions...

I replaced the valve control solenoid with a new oem one. I tested the power connection with a multimeter to see if there was power (which there was). I did not have the valve control out while connected to power to see if it actually moved.

System has been bled and topped off.

I haven't bypassed the control valve, considering I get heat when the engine is running at 2K RPM or higher. I get some heat, just not at idle and it could definitely be hotter in general.

Temperature of the lines running to and from the heater core have been the same.

Thanks for the pelican parts article. I will be reading that when I have a little more time. I will also try disconnecting power from the valve control all together.

I'll let you know what I find out!

Thanks again for the info.
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  #6  
Old 01-29-2016, 06:55 AM
x3brian x3brian is offline
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Location: Sacramento CA
 
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Mein Auto: X3
2004 X3 No Heat while idling

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  #7  
Old 01-29-2016, 07:09 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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Mein Auto: 2012 X5 35d (E70)
Electrically powered PTC ceramic heater? Look for 80 Amp fuse on the battery fuse block.
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