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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 09-21-2012, 10:35 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Here's a discussion today, covering venting even on the 'sealed' batteries, which may be of interest to others:
- > E39 (1997 - 2003) > AutoCraft H8-AGM battery only for $125.99!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bowang View Post
I installed a new battery (AutoCraft H8-AGM) from Advance Auto Parts last Saturday. So far everything works great. It's only $125.99 after using a link my friend sent to me. The link saved me $35 instantly. The battery can be used on X3, X5 and 5 Series. I got free installation at local store.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #27  
Old 12-18-2012, 08:57 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, this thread mentions a hint for properly tightening the cable connections:

Quote:
Originally Posted by nedmon View Post
Does everyone know that tightening the 10mm nut on the terminal squeezes down on a little wedge and the wedge in turn pulls the clamp tight on the terminal post.

And if the wedge is not positioned right, the connection will be loose.

Ned
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #28  
Old 01-06-2013, 10:37 AM
AmesDP AmesDP is offline
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Thanks for this pictorial DIY. It may be a simple procedure that anyone can stumble through in the end, but nobody wants to do that outdoors in the middle of the winter. Much better to know ahead of time the details of what bolts have to be removed in what order, what to do about the vent tube, how hard is it to lift the battery out, particular bolts not to over-tighten, etc.

Update: Forgot to take any photos, but everything went pretty smoothly for me. I kept one battery connected to the jumper points under the hood at all times to avoid losing power, so I didn't have any issues of any settings being lost.

The only clarifications I would add to this DIY are:

- The battery is very heavy and a very tight fit. Be prepared to do some work to get the old one out and the new one in.

- The vent tube will probably just pop off the connector when you pull the battery out, but if you need to get at it when removing or installing, you can slide the battery over a few inches after you have removed the clamp holding it down at the end (the one at the bottom of that long 10mm bolt). The vent tube is connected to the battery vent hole by a little L-shaped plastic connector - make sure you recover that from the old battery and use it with the new one.

- Be careful not to drop anything down into the battery well when re-installing (like the L-shaped vent connector, the nut for the cross bracket, or the clamp or retaining washer on the bottom clamp. Otherwise you may have to pull the battery out again to get at it, which you won't appreciate (no, I didn't drop anything - just paranoid that I might!)

What are the 2 bits of foam glued to the top of the original battery for? They don't contact anything on my car.

Last edited by AmesDP; 01-08-2013 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Added update.
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  #29  
Old 01-06-2013, 12:52 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmesDP View Post
Thanks for this pictorial DIY. It may be a simple procedure that anyone can stumble through in the end, but nobody wants to do that outdoors in the middle of the winter. Much better to know ahead of time the details of what bolts have to be removed in what order, what to do about the vent tube, how hard is it to lift the battery out, partiular bolts not to over-tighten, etc.
Thanks for letting us know it helped!

The goal is for everyone, once they have a problem to fix, to find the canonical DIY for that problem, and, then, to improve it.

If you can, add a picture or two to help clear up anywhere in this DIY where it wasn't specific enough for you.
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #30  
Old 06-14-2013, 06:51 PM
Kamikaze1 Kamikaze1 is offline
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Does the vent tube have to be connected to a new battery?
I'd better post my inquiry here rather than E46 forum because this thread is quite comprehensive.
When I removed my old battery the other day, I found the battery compartment flooded up to 2.5cm high and the vent tube was not connected to the battery at all.
That is why I didn't bother to reconnect the vent tube to the new battery. And of course I plugged the vent hole of the new battery to prevent flooding again.
Am I doing wrong?
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  #31  
Old 06-14-2013, 11:07 PM
AmesDP AmesDP is offline
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The vent tube is there to vent excess hydrogen gas which can be produced by the battery under some circumstances, because hydrogen can be explosive if confined in a small poorly-vented space. You shouldn't get water coming in to the battery compartment via the vent tube when it is properly connected. You should hook it up.
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  #32  
Old 06-15-2013, 01:07 AM
Kamikaze1 Kamikaze1 is offline
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Knowledge is power

I thought the excess water from the battery has flown through the vent tube out to air.
And I thought my battery compartment has been flooded because the vent tube was not connected to the battery.
Anyway, the vent tube is there for excess H2 gas, not for water.
I still wonder where the water came from? Through the side panel?
I'd better find an adaptor for the vent tube.
Thanks for your clarification

Last edited by Kamikaze1; 06-15-2013 at 01:59 AM.
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  #33  
Old 06-17-2013, 12:51 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze1 View Post
I still wonder where the water came from? Through the side panel?
I'd better find an adaptor for the vent tube.
Thanks for your clarification
Check he foam gasket that seals the rear tailight against the the body frame. The gasket make not be making a perfect seal allowing water to seep in.

Additionally, look for dried water marks which sometimes trails back towards the source of the leak.
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  #34  
Old 06-18-2013, 03:13 AM
Kamikaze1 Kamikaze1 is offline
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VG point. Thanks. Will let you know later
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  #35  
Old 08-28-2013, 03:54 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Drat. Maybe my battery has gone south, after less than 2 years!
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > It's my turn for the E39 TRANS. FAILSAFE PROG transmission failure stuck in high gear

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Meanwhile, I called Autozone.
They don't have the 49-DL anymore.
But, they say mine is warranteed for $127.52 until mid September.
They'll sell me one of these, as a replacement, if my battery tests bad:
  1. H8 ==> $130-127=$3 + 8.75% tax on $130 = $14.37
  2. 94R ==> $165-127=$38 + 8.75% tax on $165 = $52.44
  3. H7 ==> $180-127=$53 + 8.75% tax on $180 = $68.75
Interestingly, I called another Autozone, which gave me different figures (but relatively similar):
  1. H8 ==> $130-105=$25 (plus 8.75% tax on $130 which is another $11.38)
This second store said they'd need to charge the battery for an hour, so, I'd better get going to give them the time to do that.
Googling, I think we can fit any battery of size H7, 49 (aka DIN H8), 94, 95 (aka DIN H9) ... as long as it's at least 850CCA, 720Amps, and 90AH (sometimes called "reserve").
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-28-2013 at 08:17 PM.
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  #36  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:34 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Here's some advice on buying and replacing a battery, from a thread today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by airplanelover View Post
First time I have to change the battery on my 2001 BMW 530i so dont know much about it and im a girl so I cannot change it myself.

Pep Boys will charge me $130 total for everything using a BOSCH battery. Is that good? What brand of battery does BMW itself use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
Is being a girl a reason or an excuse? It's OK to decide not to do work on cars, but gender is not a good reason - or so I tell my daughter. The only issue with DIY is whether you have the physical strength for the job at hand.

Search the best links sticky thread if you wish to learn more. Also this link
http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq.htm

Unlike some parts, there is nothing to be gained by chosing a BMW brand battery. You want a group H8 or H9, i.e. battery size. Quality can be gauged by the warranty; the longer the warranty the better the battery, i.e. the longer the expected life. Shop, compare and decide.

Whatever you do, be sure that the vent tube is connected to the battery. All batteries except AGM (also labeled as VRLA) will vent hydrogen at times; and hydrogen is highly flammable. There is no risk for a car with a battery in the engine bay. But E39s have the battery in the trunk & you definitely do not want hydrogen there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Typing /battery f3 in the bestlinks nets this, which is a step by step of how to buy, remove, and replace the battery, from someone, much like the OP, who didn't know anything about batteries before starting (and now knows enough to at least replace one, thanks to your help):

- How to choose a good aftermarket battery (1) and a simple battery replacement DIY (1)

PS: This is NOT the correct way to remove a battery, btw, but they ARE heavy!
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #37  
Old 04-14-2014, 04:23 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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In this thread today, there was a discussion about buying batteries based on the battery manufacturer marketing strategy:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Need a battery verdict

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flightmedic View Post
"72 month, 60 Month, or 36 month" batteries were a marketing strategy
I've said, time and time again, that, IMHO, anyone who buys a battery by that strategy, is using the wrong criteria.

Basically, they're buying something they don't understand (fitment, reserve capacity, cold cranking amps, etc.) using a (misleading) metric that they do understand (months).

Me?

I buy the battery most people recommend here, at the cheapest price I can, and if there is an outright tie, then (and only then), do I bother to even think about "claims" as to "months".
- How to choose a good aftermarket battery (1) and a simple battery replacement DIY (1)

See also:
- Which product warranties are useful and whether or not a lifetime warranty make sense (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 06-19-2014, 04:48 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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In this thread today, someone was worried about the recommended battery vents:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > E39 battery type
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixz1 View Post
Of all the alternate types available, which have the vent? I have always been concerned about venting the battery into the trunk. Am I being over-cautious?
So, I posted some vent-specific pictures from a thread referenced in the bestlinks, but I repost them here so that all benefit. They're from jamescd4 over here ...
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 06-19-2014 at 04:52 PM.
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  #39  
Old 06-19-2014, 04:54 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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The previous post reached the maximum limit of40 pics, so I continue ...
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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