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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-21-2011, 03:46 PM
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Engine head

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  #2  
Old 09-21-2011, 03:50 PM
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Do anyone knows were I can find the socket, and flywheel lock tools, with out having to wait for it in my mail box?

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  #3  
Old 09-21-2011, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
Do anyone knows were I can find the socket, and flywheel lock tools, with out having to wait for it in my mail box?
You 'can' make your own ...

I'm not sure exactly what tool you're looking for, but, I just did a dumb search for "tool" in the bestlinks and came up with this in a split second.

There are more listings (if I just want to hit the F3) button; but, do these help at all?

How to make your own E39 specialized tools:
- How to make your own BMW cooling system overhaul fan clutch nut counterhold tools (1) (2)
- How to make your own BMW thrust bushing tool (1) or buy them (1) (2) or improvise (1)
- How to make your own BMW car ramps (1)
- How to make your own BMW subframe & differential bushings tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW oxygen sensor removal tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW single-VANOS solonoid socket tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW camber & toe-in alignment tools (1)
- How to make your own BMW hella headlight adjusters (1) (2)
- How to make your own BMW rtab removal tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW upper timing chain locking tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW flywheel locking tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW cylinder head bolt removal tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW cam locking nut tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW crankshaft holder tool (1)
- How to make your own alignment tools to adjust toe-in and camber (1)
etc. (plenty more)
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  #4  
Old 09-21-2011, 07:00 PM
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Thanks Blue, I try buying the Haynes but I only find the older 5 and the 3 series, can some one tell me which one is the right one?

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  #5  
Old 09-21-2011, 10:59 PM
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Does anyone knows off a good machine shop in the LA area, and how long does it takes to get your head done?

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  #6  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
Does anyone knows off a good machine shop in the LA area, and how long does it takes to get your head done?

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Valve job ??? Head resurfacing ??? Port & polish ??? Did your car overheat ??? What, exactly, are you trying to accomplish here ???
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  #7  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:13 AM
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Likely overheated engine. Classic problem: overheating LOL.
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  #8  
Old 09-22-2011, 12:38 PM
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Overheated.
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  #9  
Old 09-22-2011, 08:00 PM
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Almost done removing the head, had to go to work. Hoping to get it to the machine shop tomorrow.

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02 525I Sterling Gray, 18" M Parallels, M Tech bumper, Magnaflow Highflow cat, Resonator delete, 3" OBX muffler, H&R spring and Bills sport shocks.
RIP ALPINE WHITE 97 528I
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  #10  
Old 09-24-2011, 12:22 AM
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Head is off, does not look too bad, should I get a valve job?

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02 525I Sterling Gray, 18" M Parallels, M Tech bumper, Magnaflow Highflow cat, Resonator delete, 3" OBX muffler, H&R spring and Bills sport shocks.
RIP ALPINE WHITE 97 528I
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2011, 06:03 AM
franka franka is offline
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Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
Head is off, does not look too bad, should I get a valve job?

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I would while the head is off.
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2011, 09:23 AM
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Woke up this morning check the head before taking it to the machine shop and this is what I found....

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  #13  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:11 PM
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Can someone tell me which is a better brand of head gasket Elring, Reinz, Metric, or Grade A.
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2011, 06:19 PM
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I know I need new head bolts, but how bad is it? I did my first torque on the head 35 ft lb,forget it should have been mn .
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2011, 06:58 PM
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Are those cracks along the bolt holes?
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  #16  
Old 10-04-2011, 07:19 PM
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Yes, just got it back from the machanic shop.



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RIP ALPINE WHITE 97 528I
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  #17  
Old 10-05-2011, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
I know I need new head bolts, but how bad is it? I did my first torque on the head 35 ft lb,forget it should have been mn .
The 6 cyl head bolt spec is 30 ft-lb first pass, then 90 degrees more on second pass, and another 90 degrees more on 3rd pass.
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  #18  
Old 10-05-2011, 05:59 AM
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All the post I read says some thing different, some says 30 mn and some says 30 ft lb, so which one is it? I didn't want to take the chance so I took the head off, so now I need new bolts.

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  #19  
Old 10-05-2011, 06:41 AM
franka franka is offline
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The spec I posted is right out of the Bentley manual, page 113-14. It is for the M52 TU and M54 engines with aluminum blocks.

You should get a Bentley manual as there are other details and tricks to removing and installing the head.

The correct figure is 30 ft-lbs = 40 Nm.
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Last edited by franka; 10-05-2011 at 06:43 AM.
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  #20  
Old 10-05-2011, 10:15 AM
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If the only error is tightening to 35 ftlbs instead of 30, you haven't stretched those bolts. It's the last 90 degree twist that does the stretching. I'd reuse the bolts. I'd also put a drop of oil between the head of the bolt and washer. This will prevent the jerky movement as the bolt tension rises with tightening. Make sure you clean and blow out the threaded holes in the block. Carb cleaner will remove oil and other residue.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
All the post I read says some thing different, some says 30 mn and some says 30 ft lb, so which one is it? I didn't want to take the chance so I took the head off, so now I need new bolts.

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  #21  
Old 10-05-2011, 10:33 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
If the only error is tightening to 35 ftlbs instead of 30, you haven't stretched those bolts. It's the last 90 degree twist that does the stretching. I'd reuse the bolts. I'd also put a drop of oil between the head of the bolt and washer. This will prevent the jerky movement as the bolt tension rises with tightening. Make sure you clean and blow out the threaded holes in the block. Carb cleaner will remove oil and other residue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post

Paul S
BMW CCA 69606


Very good point. Oil will alter significant the torque specs
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  #22  
Old 10-09-2011, 08:24 PM
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Ok its been a week since I replace my HG, the car runs great and the ride is smooth, but I can't help it but keep checking my cooling system. One question how much pressure is normal when feeling the top coolant hose after a drive?

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  #23  
Old 10-10-2011, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jbonly21 View Post
Ok its been a week since I replace my HG, the car runs great and the ride is smooth, but I can't help it but keep checking my cooling system. One question how much pressure is normal when feeling the top coolant hose after a drive?

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It will feel hard but forget that and check the system cold for any coolant lost day to day until you are comfortable that you have no leaks.
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  #24  
Old 10-10-2011, 03:54 PM
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Ok now on to my auto trans, when the car had the blown HG, the trans use to kick hard a lot from 2 to 3 when it got hot. Now after the rebuild it stay kicks some times. Any idea?
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  #25  
Old 10-10-2011, 04:01 PM
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it stay kicks some times
WhAT DOES THAT MEAN?
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