Engine head

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Do anyone knows were I can find the socket, and flywheel lock tools, with out having to wait for it in my mail box?

Sent from my SPH-M900 using Bimmer

Originally Posted by jbonly21

Do anyone knows were I can find the socket, and flywheel lock tools, with out having to wait for it in my mail box?

You 'can' make your own ...

I'm not sure exactly what tool you're looking for, but, I just did a dumb search for "tool" in the bestlinks and came up with this in a split second.

There are more listings (if I just want to hit the F3) button; but, do these help at all?

How to make your own E39 specialized tools:
- How to make your own BMW cooling system overhaul fan clutch nut counterhold tools (1) (2)
- How to make your own BMW thrust bushing tool (1) or buy them (1) (2) or improvise (1)
- How to make your own BMW car ramps (1)
- How to make your own BMW subframe & differential bushings tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW oxygen sensor removal tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW single-VANOS solonoid socket tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW camber & toe-in alignment tools (1)
- How to make your own BMW hella headlight adjusters (1) (2)
- How to make your own BMW rtab removal tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW upper timing chain locking tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW flywheel locking tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW cylinder head bolt removal tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW cam locking nut tool (1)
- How to make your own BMW crankshaft holder tool (1)
- How to make your own alignment tools to adjust toe-in and camber (1)
etc. (plenty more)

Thanks Blue, I try buying the Haynes but I only find the older 5 and the 3 series, can some one tell me which one is the right one?

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Does anyone knows off a good machine shop in the LA area, and how long does it takes to get your head done?

Sent from my SPH-M900 using Bimmer

Originally Posted by jbonly21

Does anyone knows off a good machine shop in the LA area, and how long does it takes to get your head done?

Sent from my SPH-M900 using Bimmer

Valve job ??? Head resurfacing ??? Port & polish ??? Did your car overheat ??? What, exactly, are you trying to accomplish here ???

Likely overheated engine. Classic problem: overheating LOL.

Overheated.

Almost done removing the head, had to go to work. Hoping to get it to the machine shop tomorrow.

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Head is off, does not look too bad, should I get a valve job?

Sent from my SPH-M900 using Bimmer

Originally Posted by jbonly21

Head is off, does not look too bad, should I get a valve job?

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I would while the head is off.

Woke up this morning check the head before taking it to the machine shop and this is what I found....

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Can someone tell me which is a better brand of head gasket Elring, Reinz, Metric, or Grade A.

I know I need new head bolts, but how bad is it? I did my first torque on the head 35 ft lb,forget it should have been mn .

Are those cracks along the bolt holes?

Yes, just got it back from the machanic shop.



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Originally Posted by jbonly21

I know I need new head bolts, but how bad is it? I did my first torque on the head 35 ft lb,forget it should have been mn .

The 6 cyl head bolt spec is 30 ft-lb first pass, then 90 degrees more on second pass, and another 90 degrees more on 3rd pass.

All the post I read says some thing different, some says 30 mn and some says 30 ft lb, so which one is it? I didn't want to take the chance so I took the head off, so now I need new bolts.

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The spec I posted is right out of the Bentley manual, page 113-14. It is for the M52 TU and M54 engines with aluminum blocks.

You should get a Bentley manual as there are other details and tricks to removing and installing the head.

The correct figure is 30 ft-lbs = 40 Nm.

If the only error is tightening to 35 ftlbs instead of 30, you haven't stretched those bolts. It's the last 90 degree twist that does the stretching. I'd reuse the bolts. I'd also put a drop of oil between the head of the bolt and washer. This will prevent the jerky movement as the bolt tension rises with tightening. Make sure you clean and blow out the threaded holes in the block. Carb cleaner will remove oil and other residue.

Paul S
BMW CCA 69606

Originally Posted by jbonly21

All the post I read says some thing different, some says 30 mn and some says 30 ft lb, so which one is it? I didn't want to take the chance so I took the head off, so now I need new bolts.

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Originally Posted by pshovest

If the only error is tightening to 35 ftlbs instead of 30, you haven't stretched those bolts. It's the last 90 degree twist that does the stretching. I'd reuse the bolts. I'd also put a drop of oil between the head of the bolt and washer. This will prevent the jerky movement as the bolt tension rises with tightening. Make sure you clean and blow out the threaded holes in the block. Carb cleaner will remove oil and other residue.

Originally Posted by pshovest

Paul S
BMW CCA 69606

Very good point. Oil will alter significant the torque specs

Ok its been a week since I replace my HG, the car runs great and the ride is smooth, but I can't help it but keep checking my cooling system. One question how much pressure is normal when feeling the top coolant hose after a drive?

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Originally Posted by jbonly21

Ok its been a week since I replace my HG, the car runs great and the ride is smooth, but I can't help it but keep checking my cooling system. One question how much pressure is normal when feeling the top coolant hose after a drive?

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It will feel hard but forget that and check the system cold for any coolant lost day to day until you are comfortable that you have no leaks.

Ok now on to my auto trans, when the car had the blown HG, the trans use to kick hard a lot from 2 to 3 when it got hot. Now after the rebuild it stay kicks some times. Any idea?

Originally Posted by jbonly21

it stay kicks some times

WhAT DOES THAT MEAN?