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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old Yesterday, 10:44 PM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
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Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
The ultimate dustless brake combo

On my e39 I have the Akebono pads & Zimmerman disc combo. In terms of braking, they're OK. No brake dust (discussed multiple times), but braking power isn't even close to OE. In time I have adapted to them, but I will change them as soon as they wear out (the pads). Unfortunately they last a very, very long time...

Now, on my X5 I installed Centric discs (the 125 series - read about them) and Hawk ceramic pads at the end of last summer.

These are the discs:



And these are the pads:



Because there was absolutely NO rust on the rotors after driving through snow, slush and salty roads during the winter and because of the stopping power and absolutely no dust of these pads, I installed the same combo on my e46.
The stopping power of these pads is close to the OE metallic pads, and miles away from the Akebono....
Words of caution: the bed-in procedure of ceramic pads is NOT what is largely circulated on this forum: the Zeckhausen method. I used that method on the Akebonos, and it will GLAZE ceramic pads, loosing braking power.

Here is the CORRECT method of bedding in CERAMIC pads (straight from a few ceramic pads manufacturers, including Hawk):

1. After installing new disc rotors and/or brake pads, perform eight to ten slow downs applying moderate pressure from approximately 30 40 MPH (50 -- 60 km/h) without coming to a stop.
2. Make an additional two to three slow downs applying heavy pressure from approximately 40 45 MPH (60 - 70 km/h) without coming to a stop.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow at least 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. During cool down, while the car is at rest, DO NOT APPLY THE BRAKES! If you do, material will be transferred from the pads to the rotor, and the results will be an irritating vibration during braking.


After step 4 your new disc rotors and/or pads are ready for normal use. Be aware that
the full bedding in process can take up to 190 300 miles (300 500 kms) depending on driving style. During this period try and avoid any high speed hard braking to a dead stop.
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Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby

Last edited by doru; Yesterday at 10:47 PM.
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  #2  
Old Yesterday, 11:01 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This is good information for the pad & rotor threads:
- What brake pads are most often recommended (1) & what brake rotors are most often recommended (1)

And, for the friction grade thread:
- What friction grade (e.g., EE, FF, EF, etc.) does BMW recommend (1)

According to the friction rating thread, the Hawk HPS is the same as the OEM pads while the Hawk HP+ are better.
HAWK HPS = FF
HAWK HP+ = GG


What is the friction rating of the pads you have there?
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #3  
Old Yesterday, 11:10 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Searching for the friction rating (which, by law, must be printed on every pad sold in the USA), I'm disgusted and appalled by the Hawk related web sites, such as this one:
- Hawk Brake Pads

Entire pages of meaningless Marketing garbage.
Going offsite, I find huge amounts of even more meaningless consumer reviews:
- Reviews of Hawk Pads

There's so much utter garbage out there about the pads, that it is dismaying to see what propaganda can exist when you let the Marketing people have a field day.
- Hawk Street Pad Marketing Chart

It's downright depressing. I read maybe 20 pages, and learned absolutely nothing concrete. The saddest thing of all is that people must believe this rot. Sad. Very sad.

Anyway, I'll wait for someone who has the pads in hand to simply tell us what the friction ratings are for the "PC" pads that Doru has.
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #4  
Old Today, 04:09 AM
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seemyad seemyad is offline
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Location: Seattle WA
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Hi Doru. That is the exact combination I posted a couple of years ago Great to see you got them too. I am still loving their performance and the clean wheels.

Here is my 2013 post > http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...702&highlight=

In addition, this rotor and pad combo lasts much longer than lower cost pads so you actually save money with this combination.

Last edited by seemyad; Today at 04:14 AM.
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  #5  
Old Today, 07:30 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seemyad View Post
I am still loving their performance and the clean wheels.
The friction rating for all rotors is essentially the same (i.e., steel) since all rotors are the same essentially (bling excepted); so the only friction rating that matters is of the pads.

Do you remember what the friction rating is of those PC pads?
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #6  
Old Today, 10:29 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Location: Calgary
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
I don't recall seeing any friction rating with the posted letters you have on these pads.

From their web page here's the rating



And here is their compound guide for their brake pads, which includes the letters you posted. The ceramics apparently have different letters which are captured in the above pic?

Also here is a compound graph for brake pads, also from their web site.
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
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  #7  
Old Today, 03:30 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,152
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
I don't see the legally mandated information on the diagram above (and attached below, for posterity), nor in the PDF (included below) nor in the graph.
While I see "mu" numbers, they are totally useless without knowing whether their tests conform to the sae standard j866:
- Friction Coefficient Identification and Environmental Marking System for Brake Linings

Unfortunately, friction-material Marketing departments go through a TON of effort to appear "technical" yet they often convey absolutely nothing useful (since a pad is pretty much a friction surface and not much else).

All pads sold in the USA must legally tell you the friction rating.
Legally, the letters must be printed on the pads somewhere.

In a million years, I'd never put a pad on my car that I didn't know had the same or better than OEM friction rating as it's the most important aspect to know before buying.
And don't think the advertisers don't lie.
Here is an example from the friction thread...where the advertising is a blatant and obvious lie ... yet ... how many people catch this lie?

Notice the blatant lie in the advertising above. We know the OEM pads are rated FF. We know these pads are rated FF.
Both their cold and hot friction ratings are, within the degrees of the rating, exactly the same!
Anyone buying these pads above, thinking the pads "fade at a higher temperature than the OEM pads" was fooled.

With respect to the Hawk pads, it sure seems like the Marketing guys are going way out of their way to hide what their friction ratings are.
That makes me suspicious.
In fact, after reading all the marketing bs, we still know absolutely nothing about these pads, if we can't compare their friction ratings (which, after all, is what pads do), with the OEM FF pads.
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2015 Compound Guide.pdf (403.2 KB, 1 views)
File Type: pdf Compound Graph.pdf (1.50 MB, 1 views)
File Type: pdf guidance_for_marking_brake_friction_material_1304011.pdf (218.1 KB, 0 views)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; Today at 04:39 PM.
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