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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 09-22-2011, 03:16 PM
havanajoe26 havanajoe26 is offline
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Front Brake Pads Akebono

Hi Guys,

It's the first time I am going to do a brake job (front) since I've bought the car. Indy shop doing the work but I need the parts. I want to get Akebonos because the brake dust on the OEM pads is insane. I read that I should also get new rotors since i'm changing pads away from OEM.

Anybody have recommendations on where I can buy the pads, rotors and sensors online? I'm not particular on the rotors on whether they are slotted or drilled, I don't need that.

Thanks!
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Old 09-22-2011, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havanajoe26 View Post
Hi Guys,

It's the first time I am going to do a brake job (front) since I've bought the car. Indy shop doing the work but I need the parts. I want to get Akebonos because the brake dust on the OEM pads is insane. I read that I should also get new rotors since i'm changing pads away from OEM.

Anybody have recommendations on where I can buy the pads, rotors and sensors online? I'm not particular on the rotors on whether they are slotted or drilled, I don't need that.

Thanks!
You can buy them here http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...417/by_year/56


or here

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brand.jsp?brand=Akebono
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2011, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havanajoe26 View Post
Hi Guys,

It's the first time I am going to do a brake job (front) since I've bought the car. Indy shop doing the work but I need the parts. I want to get Akebonos because the brake dust on the OEM pads is insane. I read that I should also get new rotors since i'm changing pads away from OEM.

Anybody have recommendations on where I can buy the pads, rotors and sensors online? I'm not particular on the rotors on whether they are slotted or drilled, I don't need that.

Thanks!

Great choice with the Akebonos I would go with slotted rotors IMO. I just got mine done and love them already. I found ones for fairly cheap at carstuff.com and carpartswholesale.com

Clean ride too Bro
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:10 PM
havanajoe26 havanajoe26 is offline
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Thanks for the replies guys. I checked out all the websites and ended up getting the best price from BMAParts I got 2 Zimmerman rotors, Akebono front pads and brake sensors. All for about $250
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:26 PM
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I think I might need new brake pads as well and always considered the akeebonos because of the low brake dust but wasn't aware I really needed to change the rotors if I do this. Is it really necessary?
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPW1 View Post
I think I might need new brake pads as well and always considered the akeebonos because of the low brake dust but wasn't aware I really needed to change the rotors if I do this. Is it really necessary?
I just got my pads done all around and didnt do the rotors so i would say its not necessary. I will do my rotors at another time.

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Old 09-22-2011, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dgoodsell View Post
I just got my pads done all around and didnt do the rotors so i would say its not necessary. I will do my rotors at another time.

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How can you make a blanket statement like this without knowing the condition of his rotors? Installing new brakes on bad rotors can ruin the new brakes as well as cause squeaking.

To determine if the rotors need to be changed you must first feel the surface to make sure it is still smooth..if there are any ridges and it does not feel smooth then it's time to replace them....if it feels smooth second thing to check is the out edge of the surface to see if a lip has formed....the idea is that the very outer edge of the rotor surface is not in contact with the brake pads so it will not get worn....if the outer edge is significantly thicker than the part that is in contact with the brakes then the rotor is worn....you don't want a rotor that is too thin on such a heavy car. There is minimum thickness that the rotor should be...if you are not sure get advice from a reputable shop.

Guys I know everyone try's to help but please do not give advice about safety components like brakes unless you are absolutely sure about the advice you're giving. Someone can be trying to save themselves some money by DIYing something and end up causing more issues for themselves getting bad advice.
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DFEL750I View Post
How can you make a blanket statement like this without knowing the condition of his rotors? Installing new brakes on bad rotors can ruin the new brakes as well as cause squeaking.

To determine if the rotors need to be changed you must first feel the surface to make sure it is still smooth..if there are any ridges and it does not feel smooth then it's time to replace them....if it feels smooth second thing to check is the out edge of the surface to see if a lip has formed....the idea is that the very outer edge of the rotor surface is not in contact with the brake pads so it will not get worn....if the outer edge is significantly thicker than the part that is in contact with the brakes then the rotor is worn....you don't want a rotor that is too thin on such a heavy car. There is minimum thickness that the rotor should be...if you are not sure get advice from a reputable shop.

Guys I know everyone try's to help but please do not give advice about safety components like brakes unless you are absolutely sure about the advice you're giving. Someone can be trying to save themselves some money by DIYing something and end up causing more issues for themselves getting bad advice.
Good point i was assuming he already knew if his rotors had to be replaced or not.

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Old 09-22-2011, 07:52 PM
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If the rotors have a big lip around them, its time for a change, also if your steering wheel shimmies at all during braking then youve actually needed rotors for a while. If the rotors are in good shape then leave them, if they look like crap then its time for new ones.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:22 PM
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Thanks for all the guidance. I had a feeling I would need to just take a look to see where I stand. Here is the interesting thing, about 20,000 miles ago I took all 4 wheels off and looked at the rotors and there was certainly a pronounced lip around the perimeter of the rotor, but since the pads were still relatively new I didn't worry about it. However, there is no shimmy in the steering when braking, not even the slightest bit.
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:28 PM
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I'm not real familiar with how the brake system is designed on the BMW. Someone I was talking to today told me that it is very unlikely that the metal wear indicator is what I'm hearing from the very light squeek I hear at low speeds when braking. He said that the sensors would notify me that the brake pads were worn before the wear indicators would start to squeek. Is that accurate?

Last edited by JPW1; 09-26-2011 at 06:29 PM. Reason: poor wording
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JPW1 View Post
I'm not real familiar with how the brake system is designed on the BMW. Someone I was talking to today told me that it is very unlikely that the metal wear indicator is what I'm hearing from the very light squeek I hear at low speeds when braking. He said that the sensors would notify me that the brake pads were worn before the wear indicators would start to squeek. Is that accurate?
That's what happened with me, but then the message disappeared and then I would hear the metal wear indicator screeching.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1bad540 View Post
If the rotors have a big lip around them, its time for a change, also if your steering wheel shimmies at all during braking then youve actually needed rotors for a while. If the rotors are in good shape then leave them, if they look like crap then its time for new ones.
All good points from several posts on the edge lip, thickness, and feel.

I'll add one other thing that can cause steering wheel shimmy under braking that I never knew until my '02 X5 developed this at 19K. I just knew it was rotors (like my '99 9-3 at 6K and many other cars with a lot more miles) but the BMW SA knew what it was right over the phone:


Bad control arms- fixed, all shimmy under braking only was gone. Never had any brake work.

Just something as an FYI for all to file in the vault and pull out in a few years.

One other thing- I got burned on my Bavaria and 300SEL 6.3. Bad front caliper pulling the car strong to one side under braking. Replaced on the Bavaria and it still pulled but was sold with disclosure and no further study or repirs by me was done, I suspect the buyer knew the fix. I realized what it was only after I replaced the caliper on my 6.3 a few years later.

Both cars were not cheap to fix. The problem was not the caliper. It was cheap to fix original rubber brake line going to the caliper. They develop internal swelling at the aluminum crimp and brake fluid is restricted.

Both cars needed a $10 hose and I spend many hundreds on new calipers that were not needed - that still hurts. Another to file in the vault, don't assume calipers: Think easy, inexpensive rubber brake lines first.
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Last edited by II Kings 9:20; 09-26-2011 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:51 PM
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calipers rarely go bad, but it does happen when the car isnt used, I had one go bad on my e34 at about 100k.
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:19 AM
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I'd agree rare, I've only had one caliper go bad compared to two hoses. I'd say hoses rarely go bad too, both cars were more than 15 years old.
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:18 AM
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I'm sorry for asking what is probably a question everyone knows the answer to except me, that is, how do the wear sensors really work? I noticed that in the display's car data it reflects specific mileage for when the brake pads should be replaced on the front and rear. Mine currently reflect 13,000 more miles for the front and 26,000 miles for the rear. Do the wear sensors directly give this information to the display reflecting what it believes to be the approximate life left OR do the wear sensors simply trip some kind of notice once a certain level is reached on the pads? Thanks for any clarification.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:36 AM
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Here is another question I just thought of. IF the brake pads still have some life on them and have not been "tripped" do I still need to replace them when replacing the pads? I don't know exactly how those sensors work, but I wonder whether a circuit is broken when the pads reach a certain level and physically do something to the sensors and why they typically need to be replaced. If it hasn't come to this do they really need to be replaced?
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:41 AM
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Here is another question I just thought of. IF the brake pads still have some life on them and have not been "tripped" do I still need to replace them when replacing the pads? I don't know exactly how those sensors work, but I wonder whether a circuit is broken when the pads reach a certain level and physically do something to the sensors and why they typically need to be replaced. If it hasn't come to this do they really need to be replaced?
Good question, no clue, mayhap others know. My thinking on this is to replace them since you are in there with everything apart and sensors are cheap (not sure on the 7, I have replaced them on MB, Lex, and Acura).
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:08 PM
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The sensor mounted on the center of the brake pad will make contact with the rotor once the pad wears down to certain minimum thickness, then the rotor will grind away the continuing wire loop of the brake sensor resulting in open circuit or open loop, thus caused the brake pad warning light on the console to go off, (close loop = no warning light, open loop = warning light).

There are 2 brake sensors, one is on the front driver side and the other is on the rear passenger side. If the sensor has not yet tripped then it can be reused. It's a common practice to replace sensors when break pad is replaced.

Frankly, I don't trust the sensors entirely. The reason being, the inner pad always wears faster than outer, just looking at outer pad doesn't tell the complete story. On top of that, the sensor is always located on the inner pad. To truly tell how much meat is left, one has to take off the wheel and check the inner pad.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:29 PM
havanajoe26 havanajoe26 is offline
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Hi Guys,

The brakes are done, but a few days before I changed them, A message appeared saying its due for service. When I went to reset the f.brakes message as described in this DIY link below I saw that V.CHECK was what triggered the service message. Any ideas of what V.CHECK is?

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=187567
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Old 10-07-2011, 03:22 PM
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Ok, it's been a week and my brakes are squeaking. The Zimmerman rotors had some coating on them and my Indy said he usually doesn't like to use rotors with coating cause they might cause the squeal. Anybody had similar issues? The coating seems about gone though by looking at the rotors, any ideas?
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Old 10-07-2011, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havanajoe26 View Post
Ok, it's been a week and my brakes are squeaking. The Zimmerman rotors had some coating on them and my Indy said he usually doesn't like to use rotors with coating cause they might cause the squeal. Anybody had similar issues? The coating seems about gone though by looking at the rotors, any ideas?
This is the reason I don't like the idea of trying out various aftermarket parts for something like brakes on the BMW.
I may be wrong and don't want to sound harsh but that's what you get for getting non-OEM stuff. Yes they may generate more dust, but think of it it may all be for a reason - namely providing adequate stopping power, and not squeaking at that. Never had BMW OEM brakes squeak or cause any trouble.
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havanajoe26 View Post
Ok, it's been a week and my brakes are squeaking. The Zimmerman rotors had some coating on them and my Indy said he usually doesn't like to use rotors with coating cause they might cause the squeal. Anybody had similar issues? The coating seems about gone though by looking at the rotors, any ideas?
I have the same combination of pads and rotors on all four wheels and I do not have any squeaking at all. I also changed them myself. The rotors squeaking has nothing to do with the coating....the coating on the contact surface is usually gone after braking a couple times.
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havanajoe26 View Post
Ok, it's been a week and my brakes are squeaking. The Zimmerman rotors had some coating on them and my Indy said he usually doesn't like to use rotors with coating cause they might cause the squeal. Anybody had similar issues? The coating seems about gone though by looking at the rotors, any ideas?
The coating should not cause squeaks and should have been removed by your Indy using some brake cleaner on the rotor. All rotors, oem and non oem ship with a heavy layer of oil as a preservative to prevent corrosion. It doesn't really hurt anything if it isn't cleaned off, just mainly stinks as it burns off. Did your mechanic mention anything about bedding down your new brakes? Google it for a better explanation, but usually it requires getting your brakes really hot and getting them to wear even with your brake disc. I.e. Find a low traveled road, get up to 60-70mph and then apply strong pressure to your brakes, but do not lock up you tires. Good luck
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Old 10-08-2011, 05:59 PM
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I installed akebonos all around my car, and what a difference it is with the dust. barely any. I didn't do rotors just pads. my rotors were still good. Luckily i got no squeak and no rotor warp. As for sensors the akebono pads use the oem sensor, You just have to remove them from the old pads.
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