Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-22-2014, 02:24 PM
lsrguy98 lsrguy98 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: St. Louis Missouri
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 167
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 528i
1999 528i Keys made

So I have two keys for my Bimmer and they have the 3 buttons on them for the remote lock, unlock and trunk. The buttons wore out so I wanted to get replacement buttons only. I couldn't find any so I went on Ebay (I know......) and bought a blank key for my car. When I got the key the buttons wouldn't come out and when I took apart my old key remote those buttons wouldn't come out either. I was going to just use the top of the new remote I just ordered but the blank key shaft is imbedded in the top part of the remote. I called the dealer and they wanted $200 plus proof of ownership and and ID to send away to get a new key made. I thought there must be a better way. I searched long and hard and the key shop down the street just hired a guy that had a key maker that would make these two sided keys like mine. They wanted $35 bucks so I said OK. I took the old RFID chip out of my old key remote and placed it carefully into the new key I got on Ebay and had just remade. It worked! I was surprised and thought there would be some programming that needed to be done but not in this case. If anyone has a similar issue and wants the information on how to do the swap and the name of the key shop that did mine, just let me know.

Thanks.
Reply With Quote
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 05-22-2014, 02:40 PM
MonkeyWithAGun MonkeyWithAGun is offline
Registered User
Location: richmond
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 29
Mein Auto: honda civic
Thats pretty amazing!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-22-2014, 03:00 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Back in Oaktown, Yay Area
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,464
Mein Auto: 2001 540i/6, '90 BMW k75s
And useful.
__________________
BMW--giving new meaning to the phrase "disposable income."
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-22-2014, 03:17 PM
djmjd djmjd is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: northeast
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 232
Mein Auto: e39
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Replacem...-/261201404201
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-22-2014, 03:22 PM
edjack edjack is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: San Jose, CA
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 8,782
Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrguy98 View Post
So I have two keys for my Bimmer and they have the 3 buttons on them for the remote lock, unlock and trunk. The buttons wore out so I wanted to get replacement buttons only. I couldn't find any so I went on Ebay (I know......) and bought a blank key for my car. When I got the key the buttons wouldn't come out and when I took apart my old key remote those buttons wouldn't come out either. I was going to just use the top of the new remote I just ordered but the blank key shaft is imbedded in the top part of the remote. I called the dealer and they wanted $200 plus proof of ownership and and ID to send away to get a new key made. I thought there must be a better way. I searched long and hard and the key shop down the street just hired a guy that had a key maker that would make these two sided keys like mine. They wanted $35 bucks so I said OK. I took the old RFID chip out of my old key remote and placed it carefully into the new key I got on Ebay and had just remade. It worked! I was surprised and thought there would be some programming that needed to be done but not in this case. If anyone has a similar issue and wants the information on how to do the swap and the name of the key shop that did mine, just let me know.

Thanks.
So, you were able to pair the new key to your remote lock/unlock?
__________________


Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-22-2014, 05:33 PM
helmet75's Avatar
helmet75 helmet75 is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: KC
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 869
Mein Auto: 2000 528i 9/99
I need a second key for mine and this thread just reminded me.
I'm very very paranoid I'm going to lose the key and be stranded.
__________________

Looking for Parts for my E39- PM Me for wishlist and to deal!
2000 528i- Current Daily Driver and Project Car
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp G- 3.8 Supercharged. Sold to buy the BMW. Chipped, 27MPG, tons of torque.
2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GT- Traded in to get GTP. Electrical Hell.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-22-2014, 06:30 PM
FrozenBimmers FrozenBimmers is offline
Registered User
Location: Minnesota
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: 2002 530i Sport
For what it's worth, I took my blank eBay key to Ace Hardware and they cut it for five dollars using the new router type key cutter.


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-22-2014, 06:35 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
Under the lift arms
Location: Under the lift arms
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,096
Mein Auto: E39 540, E36 328is, E83x3
my local ace has a key maker for the new euro keys...

and you can always just do your ews with INPA,

its not to complicated.. it can be if you eff it up though..
and when getting new cylinders for doors and ignitions... you give the dealer your registration and vin and they get it from germany.. ready to rock.. just take the old one out put the new one in.. (that normally cost about 100$)
__________________
Specializing In BMW, Audi, Mercedes Benz ,Volkswagen, Volvo
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:23 AM
lsrguy98 lsrguy98 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: St. Louis Missouri
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 167
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 528i
I'm not sure what you mean by "pair". I played with the RFID and left it out of the key pad on purpose and the car wouldn't start.
I like the Ace hardware idea. I'm getting another blank from Ebay and will head down to Ace. If I can save $30 I certainly will.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:26 AM
lsrguy98 lsrguy98 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: St. Louis Missouri
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 167
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 528i
As an added note. I used the guts from the old key pad, except the actual buttons, and placed it in the new key which had no guts.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-05-2014, 12:55 PM
lsrguy98 lsrguy98 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: St. Louis Missouri
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 167
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 528i
None of the Ace Hardware stores in my area have a cutter for this key. I did, in the meantime, find a guy to do it for $25 so I did that.
The key starts the engine but the buttons won't lock or unlock the doors or trunk....another issue I guess.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-06-2014, 04:16 PM
QSilver7's Avatar
QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Northeast Indiana
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,620
Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrguy98 View Post
None of the Ace Hardware stores in my area have a cutter for this key. I did, in the meantime, find a guy to do it for $25 so I did that.
The key starts the engine but the buttons won't lock or unlock the doors or trunk....another issue I guess.
Once again....the remote keys have 3 feature/systems:
  1. EWS - immobilizer
  2. FZV - central locking system
  3. DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system

EWS is self powered thru induction, uses a transponder (receives & sends data) that transmits on a 125 KHz AM signal, and works with the EWS Control Module, DME/ECU, and Ring Antenna (there's a transmitter/receiver used with those with EWS II...EWS 3.2-up don't have the trans/receiv'r). It has the ISN (individual serial number) that is shared and compared each time the ignition is turned on...if any of the modules don't share the same ISN...the vehicle won't start.

FZV & DWA require the battery inside the key for power. They transmit their RF signal (315 MHz or 433 MHz) to the aerial in the rear window, which then sends that data to the receiver in the right C pillar, which then sends the data to the GM...which then signals each respective system to activate/deactivate. FZV will lock/unlock the doors/trunk etc...DWA will arm/disarm the alarm siren system. Each of these systems have monitors around the vehicle, some are shared some aren't...but each system (EWS/FZV/DWA) is independent of the others...but do work in conjunction with and may communicate to confirm that the key is appropriate for the car etc.

EWS will only work with the car that has the same ISN...thus all of those components must remain with the car, or replacements must be officially synced with the correct ISN info...or the car won't start.

FZV & DWA can be programmed to lock/unlock & arm/disarm other BMWs that use the same RF and utilize the same system and communicates over the same BUS system. Thus the e46/e39/e38/e52/e53 remote keys can be programmed to work in other BMWs of the same generation build date range (1995-2006). One issue you may run into is that the newer diamond shape key (9/99-up) is a sealed key with a battery that is recharged while in the ignition. If you don't have the correct cut keyblade, then inserting the key into the ignition and turning it to at least position 1 is may not be possible...thus the key's battery will die.

See the instructions below on how to initialize the FZV/DWA features of a remote key to your car (and GM III)...all steps must be taken...if you fudge, skip, ignore, combine any of the steps...it can result in failure to initialize:

TIPS:
  • KL R = ignition position 1 (not 2 or 3)
  • lock/unlock the system manually by inserting the key into the driver's door lock cylinder
  • make sure ALL doors are closed
  • make sure ALL doors are unlocked
  • make sure you REMOVE the key in STEP 3 before you start pressing the buttons
  • make sure you DON'T insert the 2nd/3rd/4th key into the ignition...start initializing them on STEP 3 where you start PUSHING the buttons

__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 06-06-2014 at 04:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-07-2014, 05:33 AM
lsrguy98 lsrguy98 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: St. Louis Missouri
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 167
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 528i
Thanks for the information. I guess I'm wondering why I didn't have to pair or program the 1st key I had made but apparently have to do it for the 2nd key I had made. I'll program the 2nd key. Can someone tell me if I have to reprogram the 1st key too?

Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-07-2014, 05:40 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,087
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
See also:
- How to replace the old-style BMW square key battery (1) (2) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the square keys (1) (2) & what the red LED indicates on the old square key (1) & what can go wrong with a key and where to send it for repair (1) (2) (3) (4) & what battery to use in the new style 2000+ BMW E39, E46, E53, E85, etc. diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & youtube videos of diamond key repairs (1) (2) (3) & a square key to diamond key retrofit and transponder swap (1) (2) (3) (4) & diamond key to square key retrofit questions (1) & how to recharge your key out of your BMW and how long that key will last in the drawer before it needs that off-the-car recharging (1) & the details on swapping the BMW diamond key transponder (1) & the proper diamond key initializing or programming sequence (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & what to do if your only key is locked inside your bimmer (1) & a description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys (1) (2) & a list of diamond key EWS, FZV, & DWA functions (1) (2) & all about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & a description of the ignition key ISN (individual serial number) ten-second rule (1) & what to do if you lost your only diamond key (1) or what to do if your BMW key was stolen (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-07-2014, 09:55 AM
pudl pudl is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Ljubljana, Slovenia, EU
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 155
Mein Auto: BMW E39 530d Touring
Yes. You have to do both keys at once.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-07-2014, 10:44 AM
QSilver7's Avatar
QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Northeast Indiana
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,620
Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrguy98 View Post
As an added note. I used the guts from the old key pad...and placed it in the new key which had no guts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrguy98 View Post
...I'm wondering why I didn't have to pair or program the 1st key I had made but apparently have to do it for the 2nd key I had made. Can someone tell me if I have to reprogram the 1st key too?

Thanks.
Ummm...I'm confused and I'm not quite sure what you are saying as to programming the keys. The EWS part of the key (the chip) doens't require any programming...in fact you can't do it unless you have aftermarket software/hardware etc. The FZV/DWA (central locking and anti-theft alarm siren system) features of the key are what the instructions above were for. If the remote keys no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car...then those are the isntructions you need to follow to bring back that capability to the remote keys.

If you swapped over all the guts from the old key into a new key...if you didn't lose any of the FZV/DWA features...then you're good...but if you lost them then you'd need to reinitialize the key. Same will go for you 2nd key you update. As long as the EWS chip comes from your old key...EWS will continue to work as usual...and the FZV/DWA features should work if you're swapping the original innards into a new remote key. Again, if you lose the locking/arming capability...then you'll need to follow the instructions above and do BOTH keys during the same session.

And again, EWS is totally different than FZV & DWA. EWS can not be "programmed" to another vehicle without hardware & software that can retrieve and rewrite the ISN that's already burned into your cars EWS-CM and DME to another chip that is inside your remote key. But the FZV/DWA can be done following the instructions above...which states right in the 2nd paragraph that ALL KEYS MUST BE INITIALIZED AT THE SAME TIME (aka in the same session). Any remote key not programmed within the same session...will no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car...it can still start the car...but can't lock & arm etc.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 06-07-2014 at 10:53 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-08-2014, 05:18 AM
lsrguy98 lsrguy98 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: St. Louis Missouri
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 167
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 528i
Thanks for the information. The problem was that after I inserted the #1 key in to the ignition and removed it to program the it I then inserted the 2nd key and followed the same procedure. Every time I inserted either key #1 or key#2 it reprogrammed differently. I only needed in insert #1 key into the ignition. #2 key was programmed without inserting it into the ignition. Once I did it correctly both keys programmed without a problem.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-08-2014, 12:15 PM
QSilver7's Avatar
QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Northeast Indiana
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,620
Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrguy98 View Post
... Once I did it correctly both keys programmed without a problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Qsilver7
TIPS:
  • KL R = ignition position 1 (not 2 or 3)
  • lock/unlock the system manually by inserting the key into the driver's door lock cylinder
  • make sure ALL doors are closed
  • make sure ALL doors are unlocked
  • make sure you REMOVE the key in STEP 3 before you start pressing the buttons
  • make sure you DON'T insert the 2nd/3rd/4th key into the ignition...start initializing them on STEP 3 where you start PUSHING the buttons
Thanks for the update & resolution. You are testament that the directions need to be followed exactly as written...no fudging, skipping, combining etc.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 06-08-2014 at 12:19 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms