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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 11-28-2011, 07:14 AM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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To add to the detail on how the M52 CVV supplies vacuum to the FPR:

The CVV receives vacuum from the line that bayonetts (it is not a push on & click fitting) onto the front of the CVV with a 90 degree CW twist and runs up to front of the intake manifold distribution piece. If you buy a new CVV, its vacuum port is capped and should remain that way for the M54. For my 2000 528 I pulled off that cap and attached the vacuum line that runs to a stainless steel tube that runs along the top of the fuel rail. Another vacuum hose is attached to this SS tube at the rear of the engine and runs to a hard plastic vacuum line that goes down to the FPR located just in front of the fuel filter under the car (under the driver's seat).

Hope this helps complete the detail.
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  #52  
Old 11-28-2011, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
The M52 CVV receives vacuum from the line that bayonetts (it is not a push on & click fitting) onto the front of the CVV with a 90 degree CW twist and runs up to front of the intake manifold distribution piece. If you buy a new CVV, its vacuum port is capped and should remain that way for the M54. For my 2000 528 I pulled off that cap and attached the vacuum line that runs to a stainless steel tube that runs along the top of the fuel rail. Another vacuum hose is attached to this SS tube at the rear of the engine and runs to a hard plastic vacuum line that goes down to the FPR located just in front of the fuel filter under the car (under the driver's seat).
So this information isn't lost, I'm going to add it to this thread:
- Sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1)
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  #53  
Old 01-05-2012, 05:46 PM
528i 0WN3R 528i 0WN3R is offline
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For clarification, the one way valve has a hose coming out of the white end, does this go onto the nob that point towards the firewall or on the nob that points towards the passenger strut tower?
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  #54  
Old 02-14-2012, 06:39 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Huge thanks for this thread !
It veered into an endcap discussion, but I am going to first try the 3 major vacuum hoses.

3 questions about each module:

1) CCV vacuum hose. #6 in the diagram.
Is this capped off on the M54? Do I need to buy this?
If not capped off, where does it connect to on the other side?
Is this hard to get to?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15

2) Intake vacuum hoses. Any surprises here?
a) Is it hard to connect #4 behind the intake (into valve #5)
b) Does one order length cover both 4's and 7 ?
c) Also, what is the deal with #9? Do I need to buy anything here?
d) Should I replace #3 also (vacuum pipe) BlueBee was saying it was very brittle.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...03&hg=11&fg=45

3) Fuel filter/MAF vacuum hose.
Is this hard to connect? Or is everything accessible?
All I need to do i connect the F-boot to the thing near the firewall, right? (I don't need to go down to the fuel filter area, right?)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...18&hg=13&fg=10


Thanks!

Last edited by EconoBox; 02-14-2012 at 06:58 PM.
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  #55  
Old 02-14-2012, 06:46 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 528i 0WN3R View Post
For clarification, the one way valve has a hose coming out of the white end, does this go onto the nob that point towards the firewall or on the nob that points towards the passenger strut tower?

The hose from the white end of the one-way valve goes to the electric valve.
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  #56  
Old 02-14-2012, 07:01 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
Huge thanks for this thread.

1) CCV vacuum hose. #6 in the diagram. Where does it connect to on the other side? Is this hard to get to?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15

2) Intake vacuum hoses. Any surprises here?
Is it hard to connect #4 behind the intake (into valve #5)
Also, what is the deal with #9 ?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...03&hg=11&fg=45

3) Fuel filter/MAF vacuum hose.
I'm aware that it connects to the MAF intake boot.
Is this hard to connect? They are pretty far from each other.

Or do they connect to a fixed pipe at each end?
Does 1) a short length go from the boot to a pipe in the engine bay,
and 2) another length connect from the fuel filter area to a pipe end down below?
(Or do you only do 1?)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...18&hg=13&fg=10

Thanks!
1) there is no hose #6 on your 2001 530i CCV. Instead there is a 3.5mm vacuum cap. It is difficult to reach. You would probably have to remove the intake boots and move the electrical junction box out of the way at a minimum. Note that the electric valve is not oriented as shown in the diagram. It is in fact rotated 180 degrees so that the nipple that points up in the diagram is actually pointing down. This means that the hose from the end of the electric valve which goes to the one-way valve actually crosses the hose from the SAP valve that goes to the nipple that points down.

2) #9 is a vacuum cap. IIRC, it's 7mm. Yes it is hard to connect the vacuum tube to the electric valve, but it's possible. You just have to work blind. On my 2001 530i, there is a hard plastic pipe that the hose connects to. The pipe runs along the left side of the valve cover under the oxygen sensors wires.

3) The diagram actually shows all of the hoses from the FPR to the intake boot. The hose from the intake boot goes to a hard plastic pipe in a clip. There is a small plastic piece that adapts the plastic pipe to the correct size for the clip. Be sure not to lose that. The easiest thing to do is to follow the hose from the intake boot to the plastic pipe.

If the vacuum hoses are original, they will be well stuck to the connectors. I found the best way to remove them was to slice the hose along the nipple and then peel them off.
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  #57  
Old 02-14-2012, 07:08 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Thanks Steve! (And Blue)

I will just skip all end caps.
I will replace #4 and 7 on the intake with one order of hose. (11657803732) $18
I will replace the #13 MAF/F-boot hose with another order of hose. (11727545323) $5

Sounds like the right plan?
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  #58  
Old 02-14-2012, 07:24 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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You can reach the end caps on the back of the intake manifold. I suggest you replace the large cap. Mine was cracked. The cap on the CCV can wait until you replace the CCV, which is probably sooner than you think if it is original.

You might want to buy 1/8" or 5/32" ID vacuum hose from an auto parts store as Bluebee suggests. It will much cheaper than buying #4, #7, and #13 from the dealer. 1/8" (0.125") tubing will be tight, so you may need to use a little lubricant to facilitate installation. 5/32" ((.156") may be a little loose. 3.5mm is 0.138". Your choice, but either will probably work.
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  #59  
Old 02-15-2012, 03:42 AM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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The realOEM says 3.3 x 1.8.
Are you referring to the 2nd number?
If so, both .125 and .156 seem too tight, correct?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...03&hg=11&fg=45

Also, I see no part number for the intake end cap in the link above..
Do you know where it is? Diagram? Part number?

Last edited by EconoBox; 02-15-2012 at 03:46 AM.
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  #60  
Old 02-15-2012, 04:41 AM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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3.5mm (.138") is the ID the 1.8 (.071") is the wall thickness. The part number for the 7.0mm cap is 11611727176.
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  #61  
Old 02-15-2012, 05:55 AM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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realOEM says 3.3 (not 3.5)
3.3mm = .129 so I'll buy 1/8" (.125)

Tim, I sort of glossed over the caps debate.
First, I'll buy the $3 cap you noted, but are there any additional caps I should replace for a 2001 M54 530i?
(That are easy to get to....) If yes, got the part numbers/RealOEM link?

PS: Have you tried my website? www.furiousmethod.com
It's my way of thanking the BMW forum...

Last edited by EconoBox; 02-15-2012 at 08:02 AM.
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  #62  
Old 02-15-2012, 08:53 AM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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Thanks,
Sorry about the 3.5mm. I shouldn't type that early in the morning! I had the opportunity to have my intake manifold off this past weekend & I saw 3 caps - the 7.0mm one on the back of the intake manifold, the 3.3mm one on the back of the intake manifold & the 3.3mm one on the CVV.

By the way, for whatever reason, some of the parts don't show up on the E39 parts lists (like this cap) do show up on other M54 engined vehicles like the E83 X3 or the E46 3er.

I have tried your website. It's great!
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  #63  
Old 02-15-2012, 01:45 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Damn, Autozone only has 7/64 (2.77mm), 5/32 (3.96mm), and 9/32 (7.14mm) by the foot.
Nothing close to 3.3mm.
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  #64  
Old 02-15-2012, 03:51 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
Damn, Autozone only has 7/64 (2.77mm), 5/32 (3.96mm), and 9/32 (7.14mm) by the foot.
Nothing close to 3.3mm.
You might try O'Reilly's part #47417 1/8" x 3 feet vacuum tubing.

1/8" vacuum tubing is 0.125". 3.3mm is 0.130". That's close.
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  #65  
Old 02-15-2012, 05:23 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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$1 foot. Nice. How many feet, you think?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VACUUM-HOSE-...#ht_500wt_1180
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  #66  
Old 02-21-2012, 03:42 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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This literally took me 2 hours to do.
This MAF/F-boot hose was TOTALLY baked on.
Petrified. I had to HACK away at it with a utility knife.
If was a very awkward position, as your hand can barely get in there.

Also, this was actually slightly dangerous, as I could have EASILY sliced my hand or fingers open.
It was EXACTLY like trying sharpen a pencil with a pocketknife. What a nightmare.

I was very tempted to just cut off the top of the plastic tube I was trying to clean off with wire cutters,
but I didn't want to pinch or crack the plastic tube I was connecting this vacuum hose onto.
At least an hour on this, and look at the sh*tty hack job I ended up with. I didn't even get all of the old hose off.
There was NO WAY the rest of the hose was coming off with that awkward angle for my hands.

This job was really idiotic to do, in hindsight.
There was nothing wrong. I sucked on the hose, and there was suction & no leak.
All my tugging and yanking trying to scrape the sh*t off risked more rupture/damage than a decade of exposure to any engine heat.
And I have NO idea where that plastic hose goes to. Somewhere down into oblivious in the engine bay.





Next, I was trying to replace the 2 intake vacuum hoses. (the two #4's)


I got the one attached to the SAP valve replaced.


But, I'm not even sure the size is correct.
RealOEM states 3.3mm = .129 so I got 1/8" (.125)
This doesn't look only .004 mm's different, however.
Unless the outside is just wider b/c of age and hardening to shape.


I was not able to find the 2nd hose.
I have no idea where this plastic tube goes....
Anyone have any clue where this red hose actually is???
That #3 appeared to wrap around the entire engine, and the disappear in the back.


I only found the plastic tubing below. Is this still #3 going all the way around back of the engine? (Not like the realOEM diagram)
This is the view from the passenger side of the engine bay


From the driver's side of the engine bay, standing above the airbox.


Where is the red hose !?!?

Last edited by EconoBox; 02-21-2012 at 03:49 PM.
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  #67  
Old 02-21-2012, 04:17 PM
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glaz1281 glaz1281 is offline
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You can find 3.3mm hose at some online stores,I just ordered a meter of it,Im going to change my vacuum hoses when they arrive.Im waiting on parts( maf,cvv and hoses, ofh gasket,tb gasket,icv grommet,oil filler cap gasket,lower intake boot and disa gasket. I tackling the cvv and ofh gasket,taking care of any vacuum leaks in those areas. Then Ill go to the other side of the engine and take on the VCG and Vanos seals. I saw you on here a while back and hope everything is moving along with your repairs and maintenance. This is a Great site to learn from. Got great deal on a oe maf.
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  #68  
Old 02-21-2012, 05:05 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post


This literally took me 2 hours to do.
This MAF/F-boot hose was TOTALLY baked on.
Petrified. I had to HACK away at it with a utility knife.
If was a very awkward position, as your hand can barely get in there.

Also, this was actually slightly dangerous, as I could have EASILY sliced my hand or fingers open.
It was EXACTLY like trying sharpen a pencil with a pocketknife. What a nightmare.

I was very tempted to just cut off the top of the plastic tube I was trying to clean off with wire cutters,
but I didn't want to pinch or crack the plastic tube I was connecting this vacuum hose onto.
At least an hour on this, and look at the sh*tty hack job I ended up with. I didn't even get all of the old hose off.
There was NO WAY the rest of the hose was coming off with that awkward angle for my hands.

This job was really idiotic to do, in hindsight.
There was nothing wrong. I sucked on the hose, and there was suction & no leak.
All my tugging and yanking trying to scrape the sh*t off risked more rupture/damage than a decade of exposure to any engine heat.
And I have NO idea where that plastic hose goes to. Somewhere down into oblivious in the engine bay.



I found the easiest way to remove the small hose from the F connector is to slice it longitudinally, then peel it off. The other end of that small hose attaches to a hard plastic tube that goes to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel filter. I also sliced and peeled the 1/8" hose off the plastic pipe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
Next, I was trying to replace the 2 intake vacuum hoses. (the two #4's)


I got the one attached to the SAP valve replaced.


But, I'm not even sure the size is correct.
RealOEM states 3.3mm = .129 so I got 1/8" (.125)
This doesn't look only .004 mm's different, however.
Unless the outside is just wider b/c of age and hardening to shape.


I was not able to find the 2nd hose.
I have no idea where this plastic tube goes....
Anyone have any clue where this red hose actually is???
That #3 appeared to wrap around the entire engine, and the disappear in the back.


I only found the plastic tubing below. Is this still #3 going all the way around back of the engine? (Not like the realOEM diagram)
This is the view from the passenger side of the engine bay


From the driver's side of the engine bay, standing above the airbox.


Where is the red hose !?!?
That hose from the SAP valve connects to the plastic pipe that runs under the oxygen sensor wires along the right side of the valve cover. On my car, that plastic pipe runs toward the back of the engine where it bends toward the left side of the engine. It is visible in your last photo as it passes through a bracket. There is another vacuum hose that attaches this pipe to the SAP electric valve which is on the back of the intake manifold. This pipe and this hose are the "red hose".

There is one more vacuum hose that connects the electric valve to a nipple on the back of the intake manifold. The valve and the hoses that attach it to the pipe and manifold nipple are almost impossible to see.
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  #69  
Old 02-21-2012, 05:09 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Originally Posted by glaz1281 View Post
Got great deal on a oe maf.
What did you pay? Did you use the website I made for the BMW community?
www.furiousmethod.com I got a MAF from BMA for $142 shipped.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:13 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Quote:
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I found the easiest way to remove the small hose from the F connector is to slice it longitudinally, then peel it off. The other end of that small hose attaches to a hard plastic tube that goes to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel filter. I also sliced and peeled the 1/8" hose off the plastic pipe.

That hose from the SAP valve connects to the plastic pipe that runs under the oxygen sensor wires along the right side of the valve cover. On my car, that plastic pipe runs toward the back of the engine where it bends toward the left side of the engine. It is visible in your last photo as it passes through a bracket. There is another vacuum hose that attaches this pipe to the SAP electric valve which is on the back of the intake manifold. This pipe and this hose are the "red hose".

There is one more vacuum hose that connects the electric valve to a nipple on the back of the intake manifold. The valve and the hoses that attach it to the pipe and manifold nipple are almost impossible to see.
Oh, that MAF vacuum hose came off the F-connector very easily. It was the other side was totally baked onto the plastic tube. I did the lateral slicing, and that was the best I could do. About half of it off.

It might be easier to refer to drivers and passenger side, b/c left and right can mean anything. Ok, so plastic tube #3 goes all the way around the engine towards the back (UNLIKE the realOEM diagram). And I just need to follow it to its end (past the bracket you mentioned) to find where vacuum hose #4 begins? How long is hose #4? Is this a hose a non-pro can replace? B/c I can't even see where it starts, so finding out where it ENDS might be very hard.

Also, where can I find that short hose #7? I guess it's easy to find once I plug the red hose into that electrical device #5 ??

Last edited by EconoBox; 02-21-2012 at 05:22 PM.
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  #71  
Old 02-21-2012, 05:56 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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You might be able to remove the plastic pipe that goes to the FPR from the bracket and see if there is enough slack to snip off the end istead of trying to remove the old hose.

In my previous post, I forgot about the one-way valve #6. There is a short piece of hose that goes from the one-way valve and another that connects the one-way valve to the manifold nipple.

The right and left designations area standard. It's as viewed from the drivers seat.

Yes, on my car, #3 goes around the back on the valve cover through that bracket. #4 is probably 6" long.

You'll need to remove the covers and the left cabin air filter assembly to get access to the electric valve #5. You'll have to work blind or find some way to fix a mirror so you can see what you're doing.

Remove the pipe from the bracket and feel for the hose #4. Then feel where it connects to the electric valve. Note that the electric valve is mounted upside down from the orientation in the diagram. So hose #4 connects to the electric valve #5 from below the valve and hose #7 connects to the electric valve nipple that is pointed to the right side of the car. These two hoses actually cross. Then hose #7 connects to the one-way valve #6. The other hose labeled #7 goes from the one-way valve to the nipple on the intake manifold.

While you're at it replace the 7mm vacuum cap #9. It's most likely split and is not expensive.

Yes a non-pro can replace these hoses. I did.
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  #72  
Old 02-21-2012, 06:15 PM
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El Goodo El Goodo is offline
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I replaced both the hoses from the f-connector on the air tube this weekend. They fell apart when I was removing the air box. Luckily I had some leftover silicone hose of a varying sizes from when I did vac hoses on my Miata.
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  #73  
Old 02-21-2012, 06:40 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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I replaced both the hoses from the f-connector on the air tube this weekend. They fell apart when I was removing the air box. Luckily I had some leftover silicone hose of a varying sizes from when I did vac hoses on my Miata.
You replace the top hose that goes to the suction jet pump with a silicone hose? What size did you use?
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  #74  
Old 02-21-2012, 07:25 PM
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I pd $ 162 and change Meyle made in germany. It came from Demark Ordered Sunday got here today.Faster than some parts I order from here. Strange. Well I hope all goes well with your project.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:26 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
You might be able to remove the plastic pipe that goes to the FPR from the bracket and see if there is enough slack to snip off the end istead of trying to remove the old hose.

In my previous post, I forgot about the one-way valve #6. There is a short piece of hose that goes from the one-way valve and another that connects the one-way valve to the manifold nipple.

The right and left designations area standard. It's as viewed from the drivers seat.

Yes, on my car, #3 goes around the back on the valve cover through that bracket. #4 is probably 6" long.

You'll need to remove the covers and the left cabin air filter assembly to get access to the electric valve #5. You'll have to work blind or find some way to fix a mirror so you can see what you're doing.

Remove the pipe from the bracket and feel for the hose #4. Then feel where it connects to the electric valve. Note that the electric valve is mounted upside down from the orientation in the diagram. So hose #4 connects to the electric valve #5 from below the valve and hose #7 connects to the electric valve nipple that is pointed to the right side of the car. These two hoses actually cross. Then hose #7 connects to the one-way valve #6. The other hose labeled #7 goes from the one-way valve to the nipple on the intake manifold.

While you're at it replace the 7mm vacuum cap #9. It's most likely split and is not expensive.

Yes a non-pro can replace these hoses. I did.

Steve, I really must thank you for taking the time to elaborate.

To recap, I will follow plastic tube #3 to the end (past the bracket behind the motor) and feel where it connects to a rubber vacuum hose. I will then follow that hose down past the electric valve #5, where it connects underneath. I will then see if I can replace this hose #4 blindly.

Next, now that I can feel the electric valve #5, I will find the other hose #7 that connects to it sideways (facing towards the inside of the engine bay....towards right/passenger side..)
I will follow that 2nd hose #7 to the 1-way valve it connects to #6. If I feel confident I will try to replace this one also, blind.

Lastly, now that I have my hand on the 1-way valve, I will try to feel the other #7 hose that comes out of the other side, and goes into the intake. Do you have a photo of where this nipple on the intake manifold is? (I'm not entirely sure I even know what the intake manifold even is)

If these hoses are even 1% petrified, there is no chance in hell this will work. I spend an hour trying to scrap a plastic tube clean, while staring at it and the top of the engine way, and FAILED !! 0% chance in am slicing a tube with a utility knife, BLIND. I wonder if all this is stupid to replace. The 2 other vacuum hoses I spent 2 hours replacing today did NOT need to be replaced. This is 11 years and 120k miles in. "If it ain't broke..." I have a teapot sound but so far, it has not been the 2 intake boots I replaced or the 2 vacuum lines I've already replaced. I guess a smoke test should have been the first step, but I had no idea it would be this much work to replace.

Last edited by EconoBox; 02-21-2012 at 07:33 PM.
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