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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 03-06-2012, 10:51 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Go to McMaster Carr and search for the specific size or material. They have a variety of hoses available.
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  #102  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:26 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Sorry about that. You should take that hose back and ask the people at th counter for 1/8" ID vacuum hose. They sell kt by the foot.

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  #103  
Old 03-11-2012, 05:44 AM
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idjit idjit is offline
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Since my last post I've ordered P/N 64 11 1 386 446 air flow reducer as it's the only one I can get. As long as the part fits in the hose I'm sure it will work. Two to three weeks from Germany. I'll let you know...

I finally had some nice weather and did my checks. The air pump OK, air valve is closed with or without SAP running because there is no vacuum at the hose. I verified this again this morning.

This tells me it's the electric valve and since the first signs of SAP codes were right after my mechanic replaced all the hoses, I'm guessing it's not connected or shorted.

In a pic on page one of this thread I see the hose to the SAP valve coming off in a direction toward the firewall. Mine is the exact opposite and I can't feel the electrical connection. At best I can touch the hoses where they connect. Is it possible to put this valve on the inside of it's mount reversed and crammed even closer to the engine? (He had the intake manifold off or loosened for the CCV job.)

OK, Just came back in and I guessed right, here's what I found:

Wire "A" is fed behind plate "B". I can better describe this as plate "B" has wire "A" pinched so bad that it has to be shorted to ground. The connector is completely out of sight. Now I'm sure now that the electric valve has been put in the wrong way.

The second picture is rotated. The top of the engine is to the right. The top left of the picture shows the pinched wire where it comes up under. Nice huh? Sorry about the poor quality.

For after I fix this, could someone point to the fuse location? I don't see anything in the dash.
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Last edited by idjit; 03-11-2012 at 07:15 AM.
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  #104  
Old 03-11-2012, 06:58 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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I just replaced the hoses on this electric valve and check valve when I cleaned my TB, ICV and replaced the intake boot. If you remove the driver side charcoal canister housing and remove the two T25 bolts mounting it to the intake manifold, there is enough slack wherein you can pull it out so you can see the whole thing. This is what I did because I was scared to be cutting the vacuum hose off of it unseen. I wish I took a better picture of it.

Unmount this rubber piece that holds the wire loom. The little wire loom on hte center is the wiring for the electric valve. Follow it to the connector. There are two T25 bolts for the mounting. You can see one of the T25 bolts just to the left of the smaller wire loom.



This is the wire to the connector.


Here's a picture of the check valve which is connected to the electric valve with a vacuum hose.



I was able to replace all the vacuum hoses back there.
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  #105  
Old 03-11-2012, 07:08 AM
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idjit idjit is offline
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I can clearly see your electric valve in your second picture. It looks like mine has been installed incorrectly putting it to the left of the plate in the picture that I just added to my last posting. In your first picture it would be left of that visible T25. From what you say this is the plate that the EV is actually mounted on and only two T25's to remove it. My wife took the car. When it returns I'm going at it. Thanks for the tip.

Last edited by idjit; 03-11-2012 at 07:38 AM.
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  #106  
Old 03-11-2012, 08:17 AM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Here's another photo that shows the electrical connector to the SAP electric valve and the mounting plate. The electric valve is supposed to slide off the plate toward the left after pressing a tab, but it removing the mounting plate might be just as easy.

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  #107  
Old 03-11-2012, 08:36 AM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Here's another photo of the SAP electric valve mounted on the plate. I circled the Torx bolts. I'm not sure about the bolt that is closer to the bottom of the photo, but I think it is the other mounting bolt.

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M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar/Bilstein HD
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  #108  
Old 03-11-2012, 10:14 AM
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idjit idjit is offline
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Steve, once again, amazing photos. I googled for a week and couldn't find a thing. Thanks!! Good job. Your photos are going to help a lot of folks.

I've got the two T25's out and the electric vale in my hand. I can now confirm that where you see the valve, I saw the clip and Vise Versa. I believe the hose was way too close to the engine (heat) and bend very tight. It sure it may have been pinched off. This might explain the randomness of the codes. I might have a stainless steel spring or something around somewhere to put in the hose so it can't collapse. I think the original hose may have had a curve. Of course, I'll be putting the valve back in properly too.

As for the wire, it's not shorted to ground, but I need to be sure they didn't short together or open up. The valve measures 30 Ohms, does that sound about right?

Last edited by idjit; 03-11-2012 at 10:51 AM.
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  #109  
Old 03-11-2012, 10:59 AM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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I think if you put the EV in the proper position, the hose will not need support unless the hose has been deformed by the heat and tight bend. Maybe you should replace that hose or at least swap the ends so that the end that was bent is attached to the straight hard plastic pipe (or one-way valve if it was that hose).

I've never tested the resistance of the coil on the EV. Zero would be bad, infinite would be bad, so I guess 30 ohms sounds about right.
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  #110  
Old 03-11-2012, 11:31 AM
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idjit idjit is offline
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Correct again. With the EV in the correct position I was able to cut off the last half inch of hose and there is no sharp bend. Looks great. Wires didn't meter shorted as I flexed the crimped area a bit so I straightened out the outer cover and hooked it up. Started the car....

SAP on and disconnected I had a vacuum on the line from the EV. Using my hose, once again, this time I could blow air into the air valve. It pulsates the whole time but I could definitely blow air in. When the SAP stopped, I could no longer blow air in and I had no Vacuum at the line.

I call this fixed. If something does creep up it would be a wire opened up where it got pinched. I think I might ask my mechanic why I spent the afternoon fixing vacuum issues when I paid him to do it.

Anyhow, hopefully no more P0491, P0492.

Thanks for the help Steve and George and I'll follow up with the "air temperature sensor" results when the restrictor arrives.

Capped off till then -Bob
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  #111  
Old 03-11-2012, 11:40 AM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Congratulations on fixing the SAP. I'll bet that restrictor fixes the leak, too.

It's always a pain straightening out problems someone else causes. You just don't expect to have to do that when you pay somone to work on your car.
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  #112  
Old 03-11-2012, 12:21 PM
George16 George16 is offline
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That's great news!!!
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  #113  
Old 03-11-2012, 01:31 PM
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idjit idjit is offline
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BTW, I don't think the air valve will ever allow air out to the SAP when it's functioning properly. It felt the same by hand weather there was vacuum applied or not. It sucked in slightly either way. The difference is you can blow air into the exhaust through it, using a hose that you can seal to it, by mouth if it vacuum is applied.
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  #114  
Old 04-02-2012, 02:45 AM
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idjit idjit is offline
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Follow up. I haven't had a code since I put the electric valve in place properly.

I received P/N 64 11 1 386 446 air flow reducer yesterday for restricting the air flow to the interior temperature sensor. What you get is about 3 to 4 inches of braided vacuum line with something shoved inside to the center.

This "restrictor" hooks to the firewall by ther left air cabin intake vent. The line from the intake manifold hooks to it using a small plastic adapter. I didn't have to order it because my mechanic had horded it thinking it might be useful.

Thanks, again, for all your help!

Last edited by idjit; 04-02-2012 at 02:46 AM.
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  #115  
Old 04-02-2012, 04:29 AM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Thanks for the update. Glad t hear that the problems are resolved.
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2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads
M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar/Bilstein HD
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  #116  
Old 04-02-2012, 04:48 AM
George16 George16 is offline
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Great to know you got everything sorted out.
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  #117  
Old 07-04-2012, 03:06 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I was remiss in that I should report back that my year-long quest to locate the source(s) of a long-standing lean misfire condition (many codes) was resolved simply by replacing a few rubber hose/tubes/pipes/boots/caps & gaskets.

Specifically:
a) I first replaced all the rubber tubes/hoses/pipes/plugs I could easily get to in the engine bay ... which immediately helped somewhat lessen the frequency of the lean-condition misfire codes ...
- Where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1)

b) I then ran a smoke test ...
- How to make your own smoke machine (1)


c) Which pinpointed a lower CCV vent hose leak ...
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)


d) I also unclogged the dipstick guide tube which was clogged solid (and perhaps was a reason for the CCV vent hose leak) ...
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)


e) Lastly, I replaced the rubber boot which is connected to the ICV & TCV.


Those simple steps resolved my lean condition misfires!

BTW, while I rarely solve problems by replacing components without learning how to test them, I concur that one way to solve perplexing lean condition misfires, at this age of our bimmers, is to simply replace every vacuum-related rubber hose/tube/pipe/boot/cap/gasket in the engine bay.
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!
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