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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 11-06-2011, 11:09 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
The yellow parts are 3.3mm hard pipe.
Just curious, since we're trying to list all the sizes.

That 3.3 mm OD hard pipe doesn't have dimensions listed in the diagrams.

Do you have any idea what the ID of that rigid curved vacuum pipe is?

Note: Here is my hastily animated pic showing the 1/8" OD plastic pipe whose tip broke off when I removed the SAS valve 1/8" ID rubber hose:
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  #27  
Old 11-06-2011, 08:54 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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WAY
so simple thing to make so complicated
dealer sale ~5$ a piece which i used on 2 cars and still have some

Last edited by champaign777; 11-06-2011 at 08:58 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-06-2011, 09:38 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
WAY so simple thing to make so complicated
dealer sale ~5$ a piece which i used on 2 cars and still have some
I'm incredulous.

Let me get this straight.

You bought all these vacuum hoses, tubes, pipes, & endcaps at the dealer, for just $5?????

Quote:
Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
  • #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
  • #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32" ID)
  • 06 O-ring 7X3 Qty=6 PN=11617502761 $0.8
  • 07 DISA Adjuster unit Q=1 PN=11617544806 $212.50 (the vacuum valves can go bad)
  • DISA O-ring
    • M52TU #11617504543 OEM size 50mm ID x 3.5mm thick x 57mm OD
    • M54 Chemgigi O-ring aftermarket 51mm ID x 2.5mm thick x 56mm OD
Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL
  • 04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
  • 03 VACUUM PIPE 1 11727574490 $27.94 (one piece)
  • 07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
  • 09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)

Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP
  • 05 PRESSURE HOSE ASSY 1 11721435456 $22.73

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator
  • 13 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82
  • 11 Hose 1 13321437801 $24.87

Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine
  • 02 Hose elbow 1 11617503666 $8.17
  • 03 Hose elbow 1 11617547582 $17.25

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE
  • 03 fuel tank breather line 1 13907557924 $27.77
  • 04 fuel tank breather line 1 13907504303 $27.77

Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator
  • 02 Vent pipe 1 11611432559 $25.7303 Connecting line 1 11617504535 $33.87
  • 04 Vent hose 1 11157532649 $15.37
  • 06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 ? 11727545323 $14.82 (not on all E39s; the M54 has an endcap as shown earlier)
  • 07 Return pipe 1 11617504536 $33.87

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => Hot-film air mass meter
  • 03 Rubber boot Q=1 PN=13541435625 $28.30

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => VALVES/PIPES OF FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
  • 04 O-ring; 7,52X3,52; Q=6; PN=13641437487; $3.75
  • 05 O-ring; 9,2X2,8; Q=6; PN=13641437486; $3.75
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  #29  
Old 11-06-2011, 10:41 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Just curious, since we're trying to list all the sizes.

That 3.3 mm OD hard pipe doesn't have dimensions listed in the diagrams.

Do you have any idea what the ID of that rigid curved vacuum pipe is?
No, I have no idea of the dimensions of the hard pipe. I assumed it was 3.3mm OD, I didn't measure it.

I'm having new struts and shocks installed, so my car is at a shop. I'll try to measure that pipe when I get the car back.

When I replaced the hose from the SAP valve to the pipe, I cut the pipe instead of trying to remove the old hose. I just ran a little longer hose. The hose is strong enough to hold the vacuum without collapse, so I assume the pipe is there to ease routing.
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  #30  
Old 11-07-2011, 06:50 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
I assume the pipe is there to ease routing.
Interesting. I had assumed the pipe was there because it practically touches the engine, so that it apparently handled heat better.

BTW, the reason I ask for dimensions is in keeping with the purpose of this thread - which is to find suppliers.

It's especially important to find alternative sources because this simple heat-resistant straw pipe is a (nominal) $27.94 which is probably about $20 too high for what it is. Therefore, I asked because it's the start of the process of looking around for a second source.

The fact it's curved, threw a kink (literally) in that pipe quest, but the goal remains the same to find a better quality less expensive replacement.

For that, we need the dimensions to some level of accuracy.

I assume the OD is essentially the same as the ID of the hoses so that would make the OD about 3.3mm (however I don't trust the realoem diagrams anymore so it could be 3.5mm or anything else).

Last edited by bluebee; 11-07-2011 at 06:52 AM.
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  #31  
Old 11-07-2011, 07:32 AM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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blue
i was talking about your topic
Where to get M54 metric sized vacuum tubing at decent prices?


not about ALL hoses which our BMW has

Last edited by champaign777; 11-07-2011 at 07:41 AM.
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  #32  
Old 11-07-2011, 07:49 AM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
I finished replacing the vacuum tubing between the SAP electric valve and the SAP Valve and the tubing between the lower nipple of the "F" connector and the hard tubing that goes to the FPR. That was all of the vacuum tubing I could find on the topside of my 2001 530i M54.

I used the 1/8" Viton ID tubing with 1/8" thick walls. It was a tight fit on the hard plastic tubes, but workable. I don't think you'd want anything stiffer unless it was just a little larger inside.

I started with 5 feet of tubing, and I had 2.5 feet of tubing left over. I also a short piece where I measured wrong.

It was difficult to remove the old tubing off. I had to cut it off the hard plastic tubing. I found it easiest to split the tubing with a knife and peel it off. The tubing going to the electric valve was hard to reach. You have to work blind. Also, I found that the hard plastic tubing that runs from the SAP valve along the valve cover was curved around the back. It was not two pieces of hard plastic tubing connected with flexible tubing as the diagram seems to show.

The old tubing was intact, but snapped when I tried to pull it off. It was functional, but deteriorating.
the hard plastic tube, that runs from the SAP valve along the valve cover, don't need to be replaced , only flexible as below


this make this job very simple

Last edited by champaign777; 11-07-2011 at 07:51 AM.
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  #33  
Old 07-04-2012, 04:06 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I was remiss in that I should report back that my year-long quest to locate the source(s) of a long-standing lean misfire condition (many codes) was resolved simply by replacing a few rubber hose/tubes/pipes/boots/caps & gaskets.

Specifically:
a) I first replaced all the rubber tubes/hoses/pipes/plugs I could easily get to in the engine bay ... which immediately helped somewhat lessen the frequency of the lean-condition misfire codes ...
- Where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1)

b) I then ran a smoke test ...
- How to make your own smoke machine (1)


c) Which pinpointed a lower CCV vent hose leak ...
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)


d) I also unclogged the dipstick guide tube which was clogged solid (and perhaps was a reason for the CCV vent hose leak) ...
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)


e) Lastly, I replaced the rubber boot which is connected to the ICV & TCV.


Those simple steps resolved my lean condition misfires (sufficient to pass the California dynomometer smog test):
- What you can expect for E39 smog emissions test results (1)

BTW, while I rarely solve problems by replacing components without learning how to test them, I concur that one way to solve perplexing lean condition misfires, at this age of our bimmers, is to simply replace every vacuum-related rubber hose/tube/pipe/boot/cap/gasket in the engine bay.
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-05-2012 at 11:24 PM.
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  #34  
Old 07-04-2012, 06:10 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
BTW, while I rarely solve problems by replacing components without learning how to test them, I concur that one way to solve perplexing lean condition misfires, at this age of our bimmers, is to simply replace every vacuum-related rubber hose/tube/pipe/boot/cap/gasket in the engine bay.
I would agree that this is a sound approach for resolving lean conditions codes Our cars are all approaching or exceeding 10 years of age. The rubber components were never intended to last forever and their failure is typically the cause of the problem. Identifying which hose/tube/boot/etc. is problematic, which makes this strategy appealing. Plus you won't have to worry about them for another 10 years!
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  #35  
Old 08-15-2014, 10:21 AM
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One "vacuum tubing" component we need to figure out the size of is the brittle PLASTIC PIPE (#3 below) that runs along the passenger side of the engine valve cover, which often breaks when replacing the valve cover:
- What can go wrong when replacing the VCG valve cover gasket (1)

See also:
- What are the components of the secondary air system SAS (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibokojoe
Secondary Air pump (SAP) troubleshooting and repair. (2000 BMW E39 528i)
If you are receiving two OBD errors P1421 and P1423 it may be your SAP system. I have read several of the online manuals and Bentleys is worthless, they all gave me a headache by the time I was finished. They all made it harder to determine the problem then they needed too. So to help the next guy (simply) through this problem here is my write up.
Take a look at the illustration there are four major components to the SAP system.
  1. Secondary air pump (SAP
  2. Air pump valve (APV)
  3. Electric valve (EV)
  4. Non-return valve (NRV)
First test detach hose from the SAP at the APV (# one with a yellow circle). Mine has the squeeze ring. Once detached have someone start the car. Car has to be cold for at least 4 hours. Feel for air is blowing from the SAP.
If blowing SAP is good
If no blowing SAP bad
If SAP is blowing feel the inlet side of the APV if you feel exhaust APV is bad. Test for one minute to see if valve eventually closes.
If APV is closed check the vacuum on the APV. I used a mitivac. Check APV by itself (it should hold a vacuum with no leaking). Then check the hose running from the APV to the manifold. I attached the mitivac at point A and put my finger over point B. This is where I found my leaků.. hose was rotten. Check the rest of the hose from C to the manifold.
The NRV is directional (Arrow). You can check it with the mitivac, I just sucked on it to determine the direction of the flow, it only goes one way. If you can draw air both directions the NRV is bad.
The biggest pain in this project was getting the EV out for inspection. The EV is under the back of the intake manifold and you have to use a small mirror and a flashlight to see and determine how to get the EV off of the mounting bracket.
Remove the right side air box
Remove the beauty covers from the top of the engine. Makes it easier to check the vacuum hoses and to get at the EV
While you're doing this it is best if you replace all the hoses # 7 and #4.
If you look at the side picture of the EV you will see a clip. You have to pull the EV towards you while pushing in on the clip towards the engine. I used a thin blade 6" screwdriver. Unless you have someone to hold the mirror and light you will have to do this blind. Also the on-line illustration of the EV are backwards. (red arrow).
Kibokojoe
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #36  
Old 08-15-2014, 03:59 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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nothing fun about this thread.. This always seems to be the same old same old with this.. hard to find the right size hose for german cars...

IF i were you.. I got out of my way and get a roll of some nice strong braded stuff online.. (as i did)
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