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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 10-16-2011, 04:27 PM
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Wtf

I haven't been on the forum for a while mainly because everything has been working. Until recently. My check engine light has been coming on every 5 or 10 minutes when I'm on the highway doing anywhere from 2300-3500 rpm. So I went to get the engine scanned and they gave me all these codes, including a speed sensor code (which is the least of my problems) Even though the light was on, I couldn't tell a difference in performance until the next day when I started my car. When at idle the car makes a very loud and embarrassing knocking noise. I examined more closely and it seems to be coming from underneath the engine, somewhat close to the BRAND NEW transmission. This car is driving me insane, I love it to death but if it keeps acting up I'm going to have to get another car and ditch this one.
Can anyone please help
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:20 PM
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JC540I JC540I is offline
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all injectors failing? possible Fuel pump, what type of gas are you using? I don't thnk that would cause bad injectors but ya never know...Waiting on Robert to chime in
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"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers." -Colin McRae

Owned/own:
1995 M3-cosmos black(E36)
1998 528I-schwartz black(E39)
1999 328IS-steel blue(E36)
1995 540IA-orient blue(E34) 5/6 speed swap soon.
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:48 PM
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yeah me too haha. I have a sneaking suspicion it could be the fuel pump. Im going to order one tomorrow and go from there. Also the knocking, i jacked the car up and started it. It seems to be coming from the oil pan, it only knocks when the oil is hot though. Any suggestions? I'm guessing the oil pump but I don't want to take the pan off and find out it isn't
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:56 PM
down19992000 down19992000 is offline
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If you recently had a new transmission put in it could be that they didn't tighten the torque converter bolts properly and they have came loose or it could be that you have a rod or crank knock from the bottom end of the motor which would mean you need a motor rebuild. Is the top end of the motor making any noise? You could take the oil cap off and look in there with a flash light to see if any oil is being pumped to the topend.

Last edited by down19992000; 10-16-2011 at 05:58 PM.
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2011, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down19992000 View Post
If you recently had a new transmission put in it could be that they didn't tighten the torque converter bolts properly and they have came loose or it could be that you have a rod or crank knock from the bottom end of the motor which would mean you need a motor rebuild. Is the top end of the motor making any noise? You could take the oil cap off and look in there with a flash light to see if any oil is being pumped to the topend.
I'm 100 percent sure it's coming from the oil pan now. I searched around on google and found a thread saying that bolts from the oil pump come loose and hit the bottom of the pan when rotating. How hard is it to fix that issue? Is it just a tightening solution or is it going to have to be a replacement?
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2011, 06:15 PM
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If you are sure that this is the problem, replace the pump. If you are going to go through the work of accessing the pump, Change it out.

Search eBay for one, you will find a good price.
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:00 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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And the idiots who fixed your transmission for you should bear the cost of all of this (except for a new pump maybe). Insist on it. They screwed things up and who knows what else is going to go wrong. Call them, and if they recommend that you have the car towed to their workshop instead of driving it, do so. And give them the bill for the tow or get them to use their own people.

As to the codes....i believe something is wrong. I don't think its your injectors. Is your fuel consumption off? How is your engine's performance? Please erase all of your codes and see if you still have this problem. Sometimes that fixes what happens to be a one-time glitch.

One way to erase all of your engine codes would be to unplug your ecu, wait a few minutes, and then plug it right back. This resets everything and wipes all codes. I would go ahead with that since you've already noted your codes.

I wouldn't order that fuel pump as a result of the codes you've received. However, it is generally a very good idea to put in a new OEM fuel pump (OEM only please, the china ones fail prematurely), as the fuel pump is something that will fail due to its age and you don't want to be left stranded somewhere. Also get new fuel pump, dme and abs relays, for good measure. Bosch ones are ideal.


rgds,
RobertO
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
And the idiots who fixed your transmission for you should bear the cost of all of this (except for a new pump maybe). Insist on it. They screwed things up and who knows what else is going to go wrong. Call them, and if they recommend that you have the car towed to their workshop instead of driving it, do so. And give them the bill for the tow or get them to use their own people.

As to the codes....i believe something is wrong. I don't think its your injectors. Is your fuel consumption off? How is your engine's performance? Please erase all of your codes and see if you still have this problem. Sometimes that fixes what happens to be a one-time glitch.

One way to erase all of your engine codes would be to unplug your ecu, wait a few minutes, and then plug it right back. This resets everything and wipes all codes. I would go ahead with that since you've already noted your codes.

I wouldn't order that fuel pump as a result of the codes you've received. However, it is generally a very good idea to put in a new OEM fuel pump (OEM only please, the china ones fail prematurely), as the fuel pump is something that will fail due to its age and you don't want to be left stranded somewhere. Also get new fuel pump, dme and abs relays, for good measure. Bosch ones are ideal.


rgds,
RobertO
Thanks for your opinion. They botched together the exhaust I just saw. There is some sort of wrap around the inner exhaust manifolds. WTF kind of job is that, i paid over 2500 for them to "fix" my e34. I realized that when i started my car just now, it was as loud as it would be without an exhaust and the idle was extremely rough. They didn't note anything in the receipt I received from them. Mind you, I do love the sound of it, but I know its not good to have it because a MAIN component of the engine hasn't been installed properly. I had no issues before I took it to them when my transmission was fried. Now, the oil pump, how hard, and how much will it cost me to replace, I really don't want to disassemble the whole front end of the engine.

As for the fuel pump and DME. I will disconnect the DME for 10 minutes and check for codes again. I really hope its just some sort of glitch that it created by itself. Fuel consumption does seem to be normal. I'm still getting around 450 km per tank for a mix of highway/city driving, and I will be getting a Bosch fuel pump because I'd rather not have one that'll fail prematurely However there is another issue, I don't know if I'm burning oil or leaking any but I am missing some (half a quart) and I just had an oil change about 3000 km ago. When I park my car I don't see any spots underneath the car, and I don't see any blue smoke from the exhaust when the engine is cold or warm. Could this be due to the faulty oil pump? I'm seriously scratching my head over this. BTW my engine only has 80000 km on it, and the transmission is pretty much new (25000km)
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:46 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmellios16 View Post
Thanks for your opinion. They botched together the exhaust I just saw. There is some sort of wrap around the inner exhaust manifolds. WTF kind of job is that, i paid over 2500 for them to "fix" my e34. I realized that when i started my car just now, it was as loud as it would be without an exhaust and the idle was extremely rough. They didn't note anything in the receipt I received from them. Mind you, I do love the sound of it, but I know its not good to have it because a MAIN component of the engine hasn't been installed properly. I had no issues before I took it to them when my transmission was fried. Now, the oil pump, how hard, and how much will it cost me to replace, I really don't want to disassemble the whole front end of the engine.

As for the fuel pump and DME. I will disconnect the DME for 10 minutes and check for codes again. I really hope its just some sort of glitch that it created by itself. Fuel consumption does seem to be normal. I'm still getting around 450 km per tank for a mix of highway/city driving, and I will be getting a Bosch fuel pump because I'd rather not have one that'll fail prematurely However there is another issue, I don't know if I'm burning oil or leaking any but I am missing some (half a quart) and I just had an oil change about 3000 km ago. When I park my car I don't see any spots underneath the car, and I don't see any blue smoke from the exhaust when the engine is cold or warm. Could this be due to the faulty oil pump? I'm seriously scratching my head over this. BTW my engine only has 80000 km on it, and the transmission is pretty much new (25000km)
If you wish to be anal, you should do a compression test on your chambers. This will rule out worn piston rings as a source of lost oil, which is very unlikely anyway because your engine is so new....you should experience problems like that at the 300-400km mark.

You need to go and screw the idiots who botched your car. Do you think they did not know they were doing a crap job on you? The knew full well and did not give a damn ! Take action ! They only behave this way because other people have let them get away with murder like this. Take action ! Immediately !! And threaten to sue, complain to the authorities, and to let the press know about it. Let them see the fury in your eyes ! Let them see the fury in my eyes at least ! lolol
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
If you wish to be anal, you should do a compression test on your chambers. This will rule out worn piston rings as a source of lost oil, which is very unlikely anyway because your engine is so new....you should experience problems like that at the 300-400km mark.

You need to go and screw the idiots who botched your car. Do you think they did not know they were doing a crap job on you? The knew full well and did not give a damn ! Take action ! They only behave this way because other people have let them get away with murder like this. Take action ! Immediately !! And threaten to sue, complain to the authorities, and to let the press know about it. Let them see the fury in your eyes ! Let them see the fury in my eyes at least ! lolol
oh they will believe me. This car doesn't deserve any of the crap they're doing to it.
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  #11  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:57 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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If you clear codes, they will not reappear immediately (if there is a genuine fault to begin with). It may take a few days. So check your codes again after a few days.
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2011, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
If you clear codes, they will not reappear immediately (if there is a genuine fault to begin with). It may take a few days. So check your codes again after a few days.
Yes! thank you for that info, I was wondering how long it'll take to show up if something was truly wrong
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2011, 08:58 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by cmellios16 View Post
oh they will believe me. This car doesn't deserve any of the crap they're doing to it.
More to the point, you don't either.
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