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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #1  
Old 10-27-2015, 03:45 PM
DieselDonkey DieselDonkey is offline
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Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 2010 x35d
Rear power hatch not working

Need some help guys
2010 BMW X5 diesel out of warranty
Power rear hatch is not working from inside of car or with key fob. It does pop open when u lock or unlock.
I have the tailgate lid open warning although it is firmly closed on both latches. I have shut it very hard a few times and still have the idrive warning picture of the tailgate being open. The red hatch close button is not lit either.
I have checked both power rear hatch fuses and they are good.

I feel like it's probably the sensor in the rear tailgate. The hatch thinks the tailgate is open therefore it is not working.

Any ideas guys?
Please give me some input
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  #2  
Old 10-27-2015, 04:12 PM
ard ard is offline
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Location: Sierra foothills, California USA
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 13,399
Mein Auto: '12 X5 35d/E39M5/996TTX50
I see you also have a thread on 4 inches of water around there???
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Keep it as simple as possible...but no simpler.
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  #3  
Old 10-27-2015, 05:00 PM
DieselDonkey DieselDonkey is offline
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Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 2010 x35d
Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
I see you also have a thread on 4 inches of water around there???
Yes that is true.
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  #4  
Old 10-27-2015, 05:39 PM
DieselDonkey DieselDonkey is offline
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Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 2010 x35d
Bingo
Found the module wet for the
Tailgate lift module I am spraying the circuit board with cleaner and drying it. Looks like a used on eBay it's $180
Part # F005V00833 it's a Bosch part made in Australia
Will update. Please keep your fingers crossed
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  #5  
Old 10-27-2015, 07:20 PM
boostedX5SAV boostedX5SAV is offline
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Location: New York City
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 408
Mein Auto: 2012 X5 35i
For future viewers, I had the same problem and this is what the service advisor commented for the problem/fix

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...51&postcount=5
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  #6  
Old 10-30-2015, 06:53 PM
DieselDonkey DieselDonkey is offline
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Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 2010 x35d
Does a used replacement part need to be coded?
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2015, 05:02 PM
DieselDonkey DieselDonkey is offline
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Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 2010 x35d
Well guys, the used replacement module arrived from eBay. Plugged her in no working. Decided to investigate the new used part from eBay and guess what...
The circuit board was completely rusted and damaged lol. The donor x5 could have sat in junkyard a while. Must be a common problem with these x5s!
Already got my money back and ordered another new used one.
Will continue to update!


Any input if this needs to be coded?

the info from boostedx5SAV shows evidence that it does but one dealer said no...
Anticipation is killing me

Last edited by DieselDonkey; 11-05-2015 at 05:07 PM.
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2015, 06:27 PM
ChristineX5 ChristineX5 is offline
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Location: Sebastian, Florida & Ellison Bay, WI.
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 60
Mein Auto: 08 X5,110K & 02 330I 108K
Thanks "Boosted" for that tip on the leaking O-ring goose neck area. I will rub mine in with Gummi Pflege where it enters the metal and spray the whole goose neck with "303 Aerospace" wiping off any excess and certainly cleaning the paint areas in the area with detailer spray.

Gummi Pflege is the great German silicone stick that you always saw laying on the work bench of each mechanic at a BMW dealer. You'd look around and see a half dozen tubes within view. Finally asked the mechanic about it... "Oh...great stuff, we use it all over on any rubber seals like around the engine and keep the door seals from freezing on, and in the lock mechanisms. And he smiled and handed me his tube! Since then I have never been without it. http://www.amazon.com/einszett-91480.../dp/B004B8GTQG (Worth Rubber Seal is similar the ad states).

And for that goose neck any good protectant spray such as 303-Aerospace Protectant to keep it soft and supple and protected from the elements. For metal items or areas one of the best is Boeshield T-9. I use the Boeshield on my 1994 225 outboard too, spraying the entire power head once a year until it is soaking wet. Puts a waxy protective film on everything! I keep a gallon on hand of each the Boeshield T-9 and 303 Aerospace. A gallon lasts for years and is far, far cheaper. Same with WD40, I buy that by the gallon too, and use a good gallon a year. In Florida you wipe your tools down when you are done, or you have no tools! (You can tell my father sold automotive chemicals). (:

I always wondered why the window regulators and motors kept failing? In my wife's 330i, 2 of the 4 had been replaced when we bought the car almost a decade ago, only 3 years old. The 3rd window regulator failed right after we bought it. It was covered under the CPO less $50 so I asked at the dealer... why does this keep happening? The service manager told me... "You must keep "exercising" these window parts or they go bad." "Roll all four windows up and down every few weeks."

Yeah right. I figured it out on my own. Let the window sit and you will cringe (listening for smooth window operation) when it --snaps free--. Almost with a ripping sound! Especially in hot climates, or if you normally have to park all day in the sun, the window literally over time glues itself on to the top and side window seals! THAT is the real reason you want to "exercise" all your windows every week or two. To break that seal that is forming. Regulator and motor salesmen will hate me...but here's the cure...

Take the GummePflege and run it along the window seal top and side edge. It's messy and might take 45 minutes to do all four. Now with your bare fingers...rub the GP way up into the two sided groove where the window sits. Massage it in well. You will immediately feel the massive difference in resistance that has gone away in your fingers! Wipe off any excess, you are only trying to soften and lubricate the rubber so that it does not GLUE ON to the top edge of your window. Now run the window up and down a few times, and clean the top edge of the window glass for that inch or less. Listen how smooth and quiet and quick reacting the windows now are to your command! You only have to do this once a year. I have never replaced a window regulator or motor since! Not on any of our BMWs through the years. Not one. (Waaay off topic here, but I wanted to share this valuable info).
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2015, 10:28 AM
DieselDonkey DieselDonkey is offline
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Location: Texas
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 142
Mein Auto: 2010 x35d
UPDATE, it's Fixed
The HKL module was replaced by me with a used one off eBay for $105
Hatch lift control module
As soon as I plugged it in the red light on the hatch lit up and the red button was functional again. Key FOB works as well. No coding was necessary even though BMW dealer said there was!
$105 sure beats $510 estimate to replace with new part and code to vehicle.
I also siliconed the rubber grommets on the hatch to hopefully prevent water from infiltrating again.
Much thanks to the forum, ARD and BOOSTEDX5SAV

Last edited by DieselDonkey; 11-20-2015 at 10:30 AM.
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