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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-08-2011, 03:49 PM
98 5series 98 5series is offline
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car almost over heating

hi have a 1998 528i temp goes up to just about red then dropps does this every 5-10 minutes while driving bought car about 5 months ago and previous owner just had radiator water pump thermostat done any ideas on what this could be any help would be great thanx
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2011, 04:22 PM
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tmvE39/E53/Z32 tmvE39/E53/Z32 is offline
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Kinda hard to read what you wrote w/o punctuations. I would bleed the cooling system and check coolant level.
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2011, 04:27 PM
98 5series 98 5series is offline
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I'll look into bleeding it coolant level is full. thanx for the input.
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2011, 04:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Reading your initial single-sentence post is like following a guy who refuses to give the courtesy of turn signals and then trying to figure out where he's going.

Please use sentences.

Anyway, see the answer that was posted here today for this question:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Almost Overheating!
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2011, 05:17 PM
98 5series 98 5series is offline
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thanx I have already read that and it is not my problem. I do not have a coolant leak internal nor external. I have recipts from previous owner for having radiator,water pump, and thermostate replaced. I have now owned this car 5 months. This problem just started 2 day's ago. When i first noticed the problem I checked the coolant level after the car cooled down and it was full to the cold line. Today after coming home I rechecked the level and it is still at the line. I also checked motor oil no signs of coolant in oil, scent or site on dip stick in oil.
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2011, 05:25 PM
edjack edjack is offline
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If you have the high cluster, use it to monitor actual coolant temperature. You may have a bad sensor.

Search here for instructions on the use of the high cluster readouts.

bluebee,

cut the guy some slack. He's a victim of texting.
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2011, 05:51 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
cut the guy some slack. He's a victim of texting.
No. We are the victims of texting!

Besides, you'll note that, while I may chastise newbies, I at least provide helpful links (or at least I 'try' to provide helpful links). Many others simply chastise and leave it at that. I don't.

Anyway, he immediately started writing in sentences so that shows he's a good guy: kind ... considerate ... and able to get along with others.

To the OP:

Following Edjack's lead, you might want to test out BOTH temperature readings from the DTS as described in one of these threads below from the bestlinks:

- How to replace the M54 dual temperature sensor (DTS, aka double temperature switch) in the M54 (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to make your own short DTS removal tool out of a 22mm or 7/8" box wrench (1)

To follow Edjack's recommendation on getting the digital readout, see this from the bestlinks:
- High instrument cluster check of the cooling system temperature KTMP (1)

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  #8  
Old 11-08-2011, 06:16 PM
98 5series 98 5series is offline
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Thank you everyone. And sorry for the grammer haha..
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  #9  
Old 11-13-2011, 04:29 PM
98 5series 98 5series is offline
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Well my unlucky verdict is that their is coolant in cylinder#4. Blown head gasket does anyone know if these heads are prone to cracks in this spot of the head? Also does anyone recommend a specific head gasket name brand? Also does anyone have any idea on how much it will cost to have the head resurfaced,and if the cams have to come off to do so? thank you
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  #10  
Old 11-13-2011, 05:03 PM
windsmith windsmith is offline
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this may be of interest to you:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...94#post6064594
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  #11  
Old 11-13-2011, 08:44 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98 5series View Post
does anyone know if these heads are prone to cracks in this spot of the head?
In addition to the thread windsmith kindly referenced for you (which is actually item #26 in the set of links below), you'll note that we already prepared, ahead of time, a generic response to your issue.

Here it is:

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & a one-paragraph summary for the next owner with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & real-world results from people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38).

Last edited by bluebee; 11-13-2011 at 08:49 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-13-2011, 09:01 PM
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bcbp14 bcbp14 is offline
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Man that really sucks, did the PO run any head gasket sealer that finally failed?(blue devil,Bars) Just wondering how after 5 months it just started to over heat. Was it over heating at idle or just while driving?
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2011, 10:10 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98 5series View Post
Well my unlucky verdict is that their is coolant in cylinder#4. Blown head gasket does anyone know if these heads are prone to cracks in this spot of the head? Also does anyone recommend a specific head gasket name brand? Also does anyone have any idea on how much it will cost to have the head resurfaced,and if the cams have to come off to do so? thank you
Sorry to hear that but if you frequent the forum then you'd know that a failed cooling system is the #1 cause of your issue: blown head gasket.

The gasket is cheap: use ONLY BMW gasket.

The BIG problem is in the labor: this job requires expertise special tools, experience etc. to do it right. About 25-30h of labor, so expect to pay $2000-$3000 labor charge.

This is why I keep telling people in this forum: do a cooling overhaul every 80K or so, $600 spent on cooling overhaul is a peace in your mind!
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