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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)

F10 / F11 (2011 - 2016)
The sixth generation of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) was produced from 2011 - 2016 with LCI updates arriving in 2014. In the US BMW offered a hatchback 5 Series Gran Truismo (F07) and the rest of the world also go a Station Wagon/Touring version F11.

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  #1  
Old 04-18-2017, 02:51 AM
Arcane.Host Arcane.Host is offline
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Tough decision / Whether or not to buy my F10 at lease end

I have a 2015 535i Msport on lease that matures in August. I don't want to lease a new one at this time and am considering buying the car off (negotiating through dealer at sub-residual pricing) and owning it for the next 6-7 or more years (car would be 10 years old by then).

I am concerned about the resources (cost of maintenance and my time) spent on ownership of the car after the initial 3 years. Countering it is that the car is a lot of fun to drive (its more fun than my 2013 640i Gran Coupe Msport that I had until recently). I can get an extended warranty or can get the car CPO'd which is another decision that I'm confused on.

I appreciate the looks of the car a lot - I believe it will become a timeless graceful classic. I know the history of the car (been trouble free). The car is heavily loaded with too many nannies, DHP, B&O audio, Nappa leather etc which I love but again this means the car has too many electronics that are prone to failure. Plus, I'm not hands on with maintenance.

What do you guys think - should I buy the car or not? I am curious to know if there are people that buy new or used F10s if they are not handy with the car.

My other alternative is to buy a new Lexus IS350 FSport RWD (300+ HP, reasonable torque, sport tuned suspension by Lexus standards). I've not driven this as yet but I'm guessing it will not be as fun to drive. I don't have other alternatives (wifey decision).

We are a family of 3, and our son is in middle school - he could take the Lexus to college in 6 years - am not sure about the F10. My wife drives a leased i3 car so my car will be our family car. After her lease ends, she will lease another electric small car.


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Last edited by Arcane.Host; 04-18-2017 at 07:12 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2017, 04:20 AM
bmwe39lover bmwe39lover is offline
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think your looking to far ahead if you enjoy the car as i sense from your words, and i happen to agree with you with looks i love mine even with base 17 inch rims.
negotiate a good buy for the car at lease end, cpo it which will cost the dealer around 1500 $ dealer cost and drive the car with cpo warranty guilt free
dont do what i am about to do in 25k i am rolling the dice
and trying to get 140k out of mine. i have had a lot of service items done so I'm giving it a shot
all the best
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2017, 07:21 AM
Arcane.Host Arcane.Host is offline
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Tough decision / Whether or not to buy my F10 at lease end

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwe39lover View Post
think your looking to far ahead if you enjoy the car as i sense from your words, and i happen to agree with you with looks i love mine even with base 17 inch rims.
negotiate a good buy for the car at lease end, cpo it which will cost the dealer around 1500 $ dealer cost and drive the car with cpo warranty guilt free
dont do what i am about to do in 25k i am rolling the dice
and trying to get 140k out of mine. i have had a lot of service items done so I'm giving it a shot
all the best

The drive and the creature comforts are good and that's why the confusion. Took the car for a 6000 mile road trip and it was awesome...plus a few other trips of up to 700 mile.

If I keep it, I have to decide on CPO versus extended warranty - haven't even looked at the benefits or pricing yet so that's another decision to make eventually :-( My original tires are nearly within spec and I guess I can get the CPO without changing them and then I can get new tires. Now which tires is another decision to make :-(

On the mileage, my thought is to drive whichever car it is to 140-150k. The current miles on my F10 is under 34k and I've had all service items performed timely. Again, am afraid on the cost of ownership.

Are you handy with your car or do you depend on some shop? How many miles are on your car? Have you "owned" German cars before (I've never)?


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Last edited by Arcane.Host; 04-18-2017 at 07:23 AM.
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  #4  
Old 04-18-2017, 07:52 AM
bmwe39lover bmwe39lover is offline
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sir, i just outline a course of action forget about the 140k thing
end the lease and lease a new 540 if thats the case
buy the car for a good price with a cpo warranty use it for another 2 years
just plan on losing about 15,000 in the wholesale cost vs what you pay
price for admission driving the cars we love driving

if you want to put 150k on a car buy a lexus gs350 and deal with it being a non bmw
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2017, 08:27 AM
ejrobert ejrobert is offline
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Someone posted an entire spreadsheet on maintenance costs out to 10 years on another thread. Had everything broken down very specifically. Was within the past month, so you might try searching around a bit. I know several are very good with the numbers, but I also have come to understand it's not always a numbers thing with us and these cars.
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2017, 09:04 AM
Hockeyguy4u Hockeyguy4u is offline
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Your 2015 535i is late in the model run and post refresh (LCI) and therefore likely quite reliable. Also, the N55 engine seems to be solid with few problems. So there is an excellent chance that your car will make it easily to 140K or even 200K miles without major problems other than the typical minor annoyances. But there are not many N55's out there yet that have made it to 140K miles, so one can't be sure. However, I am very optimistic. I recently found a listing on cars.com for a 2014 335i (n55 engine) for sale with 175K mostly highway miles on it. Put a smile on my face.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2017, 09:16 AM
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Flatland328 Flatland328 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcane.Host View Post
I have a 2015 535i Msport on lease that matures in August. I don't want to lease a new one at this time and am considering buying the car off (negotiating through dealer at sub-residual pricing) and owning it for the next 6-7 or more years (car would be 10 years old by then).

I am concerned about the resources (cost of maintenance and my time) spent on ownership of the car after the initial 3 years. Countering it is that the car is a lot of fun to drive (its more fun than my 2013 640i Gran Coupe Msport that I had until recently). I can get an extended warranty or can get the car CPO'd which is another decision that I'm confused on.

I appreciate the looks of the car a lot - I believe it will become a timeless graceful classic. I know the history of the car (been trouble free). The car is heavily loaded with too many nannies, DHP, B&O audio, Nappa leather etc which I love but again this means the car has too many electronics that are prone to failure. Plus, I'm not hands on with maintenance.

What do you guys think - should I buy the car or not? I am curious to know if there are people that buy new or used F10s if they are not handy with the car.

My other alternative is to buy a new Lexus IS350 FSport RWD (300+ HP, reasonable torque, sport tuned suspension by Lexus standards). I've not driven this as yet but I'm guessing it will not be as fun to drive. I don't have other alternatives (wifey decision).

We are a family of 3, and our son is in middle school - he could take the Lexus to college in 6 years - am not sure about the F10. My wife drives a leased i3 car so my car will be our family car. After her lease ends, she will lease another electric small car.


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First, there have been several threads in the past few months where F10 owners at lease end were bemoaning the fact that their dealer would not work with them on price. Nothing in life is guaranteed but if I were you, I wouldn't plan on getting a good deal on your car. In general, it was going to cost them around $5k extra to keep their car when compared to buying a different one of the same age.

Second, if you have a CPO car and you aren't going to run the guts out of it, there's really not much reason to worry about owning up to 100k. My theory is that once your car gets to that point, any of the items that tend to fail will have failed and as long as you take care of your car in terms of maintenance, the odds are in your favor on the other items. Of course, you never know if you'll be stuck in the position of the recent poster who got a lowball offer on their car because it's got white smoke puffing out the exhaust.

It's not an easy decision but if you love the car and you can tolerate the price, you should buy it. I will say that you may find that the Lexus doesn't have the soul that a BMW has when you drive it. I have a friend that bought an IS350 and was bored with it before a year was up.
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2017, 01:57 PM
bmwe39lover bmwe39lover is offline
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coming form 3 lexus cars and now this 5 series, i disagree with a lot of the comments
unfortunately there is an issue with bmw and its threshold to have parts in them that last
and to have a car three or four years in the product cycle with issues with valve cover gaskets and oil filter housing issues and in my case plastic guide rails for timing chain are unacceptable
you then add in
high coil failures
carbon deposits
thermostat issues
fuel pump issues
collapsed engine mounts
and how they didn't fix the turbo lines with the check valves prior to a recall is beyond imagination

then how about a/c issues in hot climates like high % with faulty evaporators
your getting my drift makes no sense
that being said I'm rolling the dice and running this thing to 140k
I'm crazy but i think my n20 is even more reliable than the n55
wish me luck
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2017, 02:19 PM
bmwe39lover bmwe39lover is offline
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and to my original comments about cpo
the b and o radio i don't think is covered , and a lot of the electronics and suspension parts are not covered as well under cpo
just want all the information out there so you can best make a decision
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2017, 02:48 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejrobert View Post
Someone posted an entire spreadsheet on maintenance costs out to 10 years on another thread. Had everything broken down very specifically. Was within the past month, so you might try searching around a bit. I know several are very good with the numbers, but I also have come to understand it's not always a numbers thing with us and these cars.
Hey, that was me. One spreadsheet, coming up!

The Cliff Notes version is that the ownership costs (maintenance, depreciation, capital costs) during the second 50k miles and second four years are about half that of the first 50k miles and first four years. These ownership cost have been $1.18/mile for me for the first three years, 37.5k miles. That should come down to about $1.00/mile since new by the end of the fourth year. But, those out years are around $0.50/mile, even throwing in the $2k/year in maintenance and repairs. The $2k/year maintenance assumption was based on my owning an E46 M3 for twelve years and 115k miles.

I'm a big advocate of keeping cars to 100k miles, even a BMW. But, past that point they can be a rollercoaster in repair costs, sometimes to the point that it would be cheaper to have bought a brand new car. Also, a 100k mile car has a much better chance to leave stranded on the side of the road during a schedule-critical road trip.

Even Frau Putzer's Honda got expensive and unreliable past 100k miles. Maintenance and repairs have been about $6k between 100k and 135k miles. That includes the 105k mile maintenance ($2k), another set of tires, a starter, a headliner, a battery, and a power steering pump.

I look up the values of my car on their anniversary. My heavily optioned car has depreciated a few more percent per year than I'd predicted. My rule of thumb is 25% the first year; 20% the years it goes out of warranty, becomes seven model years old, and goes over 100k miles; and 15% the remaining years. For the first three years, I'm at 26%, 18%, and 25%. The higher than expected depreciation means that long term ownership is even cheaper than short term ownership or leasing.
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  #11  
Old 04-18-2017, 03:33 PM
Hockeyguy4u Hockeyguy4u is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwe39lover View Post
coming form 3 lexus cars and now this 5 series, i disagree with a lot of the comments
I'm crazy but i think my n20 is even more reliable than the n55
wish me luck
You may be right. The N55 engine is better-designed and engineered than the N54 it replaced, but it may have more cheaply-made components. Its longevity still remains to be seen.
There are a lot of high-mileage N54's out there, despite its design glitches. Maybe the N55 won't be that durable.
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2017, 04:19 PM
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Kamdog Kamdog is offline
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I'm over 100K on my E60, been there for over a year. Have had only one repair, the commonly known oil filter housing gasket. But had to shod the car with 4 new tires, that's almost a grand, all-in. Did the front brakes, with OEM disks and pads. Had an inspection and did an oil change. I would guess that this past year mighta cost me around $2500, all due immediately. Which I can, and did, cover.

Could I have decided that $200/month (averaged out to a year) was too much, and, instead, forked over $800/mo would be better? I don' think so, Homey don't play that.

I did the BMW autocross event with the new G30. Loved it. On the way home, I made some of the same moves. Result? While the G30 has nicer doodads, is far more modern, and is a big improvement over the F10, it drives about the same as my E60. Which recently did a sub 6 0-60.

So where do I go from here? Being a frugal sort of fellow?

I was impressed by the CT6 at the auto show, but other than the 5er, not much caught my attention.
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  #13  
Old 04-18-2017, 05:55 PM
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daders daders is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoputzer View Post
I look up the values of my car on their anniversary. My heavily optioned car has depreciated a few more percent per year than I'd predicted. My rule of thumb is 25% the first year; 20% the years it goes out of warranty, becomes seven model years old, and goes over 100k miles, and 15% the remaining years. For the first three years, I'm at 26%, 18%, and 25%. The higher than expected depreciation means that long term ownership is even cheaper than short term ownership or leasing.

Do you average value from different sites or do you pick a specific site? If the latter, what site do you base your value?
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:21 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
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Do you average value from different sites or do you pick a specific site? If the latter, what site do you base your value?
I go with Kelly Blue Book (kbb.com). Although, I've found they can be low with old E46 M3's. Don't ask me how I know this.

I start out using the "excellent" condition price. As the car gets older, I take the average of the prices of "excellent" condition and "very good" condition. Then, just the "very good" condition price. Then later, an average of "very good" and "good." Then, just "good."

My ten year old Cobalt is now in "good" condition. Frau Putzer's eleven year old Honda, thanks to Frau Putzer's driving and parking habits, is probably down to maybe "fair." At three years, my 535i, to be conservative, is an average of "excellent" and "very good."

I have a waiting list for my 535i. It's now up to six people. But, I've found that people on these lists want a deal. So, if I want a quick sale and not have to hassle with advertising it to the public and dealing with strangers wanting to see and drive the cars, I might have to reduce the price below my estimate.

After all ten people on the M3 waiting list backed out or wanted a stupid deal, I sold it on BMWCCA.org in about 12 hours. I asked slightly more than the KBB "very good" price. But, people later offered me 25-30% more. It helped that it was a coupe, had a manual instead of the dreaded SMG II, was bone stock, was a one owner car, and it had the original paint still in good shape.

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Old 04-18-2017, 07:27 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamdog View Post
I'm over 100K on my E60, been there for over a year. Have had only one repair, the commonly known oil filter housing gasket. But had to shod the car with 4 new tires, that's almost a grand, all-in. Did the front brakes, with OEM disks and pads. Had an inspection and did an oil change. I would guess that this past year mighta cost me around $2500, all due immediately. Which I can, and did, cover.

Could I have decided that $200/month (averaged out to a year) was too much, and, instead, forked over $800/mo would be better? I don' think so, Homey don't play that.

I did the BMW autocross event with the new G30. Loved it. On the way home, I made some of the same moves. Result? While the G30 has nicer doodads, is far more modern, and is a big improvement over the F10, it drives about the same as my E60. Which recently did a sub 6 0-60.

So where do I go from here? Being a frugal sort of fellow?

I was impressed by the CT6 at the auto show, but other than the 5er, not much caught my attention.
I always hit the Cadillac display at car shows... not for the cars, but for the models standing around the cars... 40-something goddesses... very much like the women in Viagra commercials.

20-something hotties are everywhere. But, a 40-something hottie is special.
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:02 PM
tz693 tz693 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoputzer View Post
Hey, that was me. One spreadsheet, coming up!

...........
I look up the values of my car on their anniversary. My heavily optioned car has depreciated a few more percent per year than I'd predicted. My rule of thumb is 25% the first year; 20% the years it goes out of warranty, becomes seven model years old, and goes over 100k miles; and 15% the remaining years. For the first three years, I'm at 26%, 18%, and 25%. The higher than expected depreciation means that long term ownership is even cheaper than short term ownership or leasing.
Where did the money go? I don't quite get it in math.

If the car value is only worth at 45% of the original value at lease end. It depreciated 55% of original value in 36 months, which approximates 1.5% of original value per month. For a $70k car, which is about $1.05k/month. How much you guys pay for the lease?
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:26 PM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
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Where did the money go? I don't quite get it in math.

If the car value is only worth at 45% of the original value at lease end. It depreciated 55% of original value in 36 months, which approximates 1.5% of original value per month. For a $70k car, which is about $1.05k/month. How much you guys pay for the lease?
The 1.5% in my spreadsheet, near the top is "Interest," or in my case what is commonly called "opportunity cost." Since I effectively wrote a check for my car, the opportunity cost is the interest I would have earned if I had the value of my car (in any particular year) in cash and invested at 1.5%.

"Interest" cost, in general is the opportunity cost on equity in the car (car value - car loan balance) plus the loan interest for that year. A better term would have been "Capital Cost."

The MSRP of my car was right at $73k. I bought it for about $500 over invoice. But, with the 6% Florida sales tax, various registration fees, title fees, title lien fees, an aftermarket spare tire and BMW jack kit, and a special oil filter wrench, I was just about back up to MSRP in total cost.

Go build a well equipped G30 on BMWUSA.com with a MSRP of around $73k and hit the lease calculator, picking 12k miles/year and a 36 month lease (the cheapest way to go), and no down payment. Throw in a set of run-flat tires ($1000) and the typical lease termination fee of $995, and you'll likely end up at around $1.00/mile. I'll have to keep my car four to five years to get my MDI&P since new below $1.00/mile. This means that if you don't want to keep a BMW any longer than five years, you're probably better off leasing a new one every three years. But, it you buy and keep the car eight years, there are savings in doing so.

(I had to pay a title lien fee because I did get a $10k loan form BMW FS, only to qualify for a $1000 rebate. I paid the loan off in four months, the minimum time to pay off the loan and still keep the rebate.)

BMW subsidizes their leases by making the residual values higher than what the cars are really worth at the end of the lease. That props up the current year's profits (on paper), and likely also creates losses for BMW FS in the high corporate income tax U.S while creating corresponding profits in the low corporate income tax Germany.

I built a pimped-out 540i sDrive on BMWUSA, with an MSRP of $70,870. For a Florida lease of 36 months, 12k miles/year, no down payment, the least estimator came back with $958/month, which does not include taxes, documentary fees, or discounts off MSRP. For me, all those effectively cancelled out and I paid just about MSRP for my car. Don't forget that set of run-flats you'll need to replace before lease turn-in, and yeah, you're back up to near that $1.05/mile.

A concise answer to your question "Where did the money go?," it went into depreciation. Depreciation is the 800 pound gorilla in the room when it comes to driving a newer BMW. Once you figure that out, those $1000 BMW service bills on an older BMW don't seem so bad after all.

Last edited by Autoputzer; 04-19-2017 at 06:22 AM.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:11 AM
Hockeyguy4u Hockeyguy4u is offline
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I've burned through so many cars over the last 20 years and have lost a lot on depreciation!! I drive over 25k miles per year, which makes leasing challenging (I've even leased 2 cars at once). I've purchased new, purchased CPO, and leased. One takes a beating on all of them if you like high end luxury cars!! All bad..
But I changed my pattern about 4-5 years ago...
Now the best situation for ME is to buy CPO, with no cash upfront, and--since the current cheap interest rates are low--take a loan on it (from 1.99%-3.5%) over 5 or 6 years.. one on or two cars simultaneously..I no longer take the initial depreciation hit and can put as many miles as I want to. But it also has had the effect of making me NOT want to sell a car because I'm so UPSIDE DOWN on it for the first few years of the loan!!!. I can't stomach the idea of having to fork over a $15-20K check to turn in my car for a newer one!!!! That has worked wonders... I'm in year 5 and finally turning the corner of decreasing my annual car expense outlay.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:32 AM
gfounds gfounds is offline
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[QUOTE=Kamdog;10121856]I'm over 100K on my E60, been there for over a year. Have had only one repair, the commonly known oil filter housing gasket. But had to shod the car with 4 new tires, that's almost a grand...

Yeh, I have a 2006 530xi, with 185k mostly trouble free miles. Yep. 185k. And I'm not exactly an "easy" driver.

I was going to trade it when I bought my 2014 535i xdrive, but, frankly, the e60 has been so freakin reliable, I decided to keep it. Three cars now, one more than I need. But the only major repair I have made on the e60 was a complete replacement of the cooling system at around 140k. It's now in my garage getting upgraded brakes, shocks and springs, and painted calipers. Kind of nice having a car to play with that you don't really need.

Bottom line, my e60 has been way less trouble than the last Acura I owned. It's been a tank. And it's still a fun car to drive. I'm going to see if I can get 300k out of it. That's the goal!
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:37 AM
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Flatland328 Flatland328 is offline
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Originally Posted by Hockeyguy4u View Post
I've burned through so many cars over the last 20 years and have lost a lot on depreciation!! I drive over 25k miles per year, which makes leasing challenging (I've even leased 2 cars at once). I've purchased new, purchased CPO, and leased. One takes a beating on all of them if you like high end luxury cars!! All bad..
But I changed my pattern about 4-5 years ago...
Now the best situation for ME is to buy CPO, with no cash upfront, and--since the current cheap interest rates are low--take a loan on it (from 1.99%-3.5%) over 5 or 6 years.. one on or two cars simultaneously..I no longer take the initial depreciation hit and can put as many miles as I want to. But it also has had the effect of making me NOT want to sell a car because I'm so UPSIDE DOWN on it for the first few years of the loan!!!. I can't stomach the idea of having to fork over a $15-20K check to turn in my car for a newer one!!!! That has worked wonders... I'm in year 5 and finally turning the corner of decreasing my annual car expense outlay.
The biggest problem that I've had in terms of keeping a vehicle is making sure that I purchase what I really want. Every time that I've "settled", I ended up buying a new vehicle sooner than I really should have. When I bought a truck in 2002, I settled on a 2WD extended cab even though I knew that I really wanted a Crew Cab Z71. I kept it for six years, but I would still own it if I had bought the right one at the time. My current pickup is going to be 20 years old before I get rid of it because it's just the beast I use to carry big things or use on days when I don't want to drive the BMW (torrential downpours with street flooding being a good example).

I bought an E90 in 2014 even though I knew it wasn't what I really wanted in a BMW. After 2 years, I was ready for a 5 series. Once you get to the point where you can afford to do it, it makes so much sense to buy what you really want. Some people want to switch every three years and outside of situations like the above where the mileage is insane, it might not be a bad idea to lease instead of buying, particularly if you can get a company write-off of some type.
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2013 535i XDrive
M Sport Package, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package
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Navigation System, Premium Audio System


==============
Other: 08 Silverado Crew Cab Z-71, 06 Mustang GT Convertible
Past: 328xi, Silverado, S-10 Blazer, Grand Prix (x2), Camaro, Accord and yes.......Chevrolet Vega!
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  #21  
Old 04-19-2017, 06:44 AM
Autoputzer Autoputzer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyguy4u View Post
I've burned through so many cars over the last 20 years and have lost a lot on depreciation!! I drive over 25k miles per year, which makes leasing challenging (I've even leased 2 cars at once). I've purchased new, purchased CPO, and leased. One takes a beating on all of them if you like high end luxury cars!! All bad..
But I changed my pattern about 4-5 years ago...
Now the best situation for ME is to buy CPO, with no cash upfront, and--since the current cheap interest rates are low--take a loan on it (from 1.99%-3.5%) over 5 or 6 years.. one on or two cars simultaneously..I no longer take the initial depreciation hit and can put as many miles as I want to. But it also has had the effect of making me NOT want to sell a car because I'm so UPSIDE DOWN on it for the first few years of the loan!!!. I can't stomach the idea of having to fork over a $15-20K check to turn in my car for a newer one!!!! That has worked wonders... I'm in year 5 and finally turning the corner of decreasing my annual car expense outlay.
Yep. I know a few millionaires who only drive used cars. That's one of the things that helped them become millionaires.

That second 50k miles is usually the "happy time" in a car's service life.

A friend was an outside sales rep and drove about 25k miles/year. He'd drive used cars, and always keep two at a time. That really helped when on was in the shop for service.
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  #22  
Old 04-19-2017, 06:50 AM
bmwe39lover bmwe39lover is offline
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im in the camp after three lexus ls all bought used, that if you want to drive a nice car Lexus, Bmw or Mercedes that in the end it will cost 300-400 / month in expenses for maintanence and 500-600 if you add in depreciation.
just lease for 600/month or buy for 500 it costs around the same and enjoy the ride

i justify my 528 because of the 300 in gas savings a month from my LS and all the maintanene included so far with warranty and cpo
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  #23  
Old 04-19-2017, 07:08 AM
gfounds gfounds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autoputzer View Post
A concise answer to your question "Where did the money go?," it went into depreciation. Depreciation is the 800 pound gorilla in the room when it comes to driving a newer BMW. Once you figure that out, those $1000 BMW service bills on an older BMW don't seem so bad after all.
Yep. That's why I think the best deals are buying used at three years old just off lease from a third party dealer (a few around here who deal almost exclusively with off lease high end vehicles). You end up with a relatively new vehicle, usually well maintained and low miles, and you let the previous owner take the worst few years of depreciation. That's been my MO for the last few cars, and it has worked out great.
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  #24  
Old 04-19-2017, 12:17 PM
ejrobert ejrobert is offline
2014 F10 535d
Location: Maryland
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfounds View Post
Yep. That's why I think the best deals are buying used at three years old just off lease from a third party dealer (a few around here who deal almost exclusively with off lease high end vehicles). You end up with a relatively new vehicle, usually well maintained and low miles, and you let the previous owner take the worst few years of depreciation. That's been my MO for the last few cars, and it has worked out great.
I agree, that's what I did this time around. Very happy. Also, I thought that was you with the spreadsheet Autoputzer, very handy!
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  #25  
Old 04-19-2017, 12:58 PM
Flatland328's Avatar
Flatland328 Flatland328 is offline
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Location: Wichita, Kansas
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfounds View Post
Yep. That's why I think the best deals are buying used at three years old just off lease from a third party dealer (a few around here who deal almost exclusively with off lease high end vehicles). You end up with a relatively new vehicle, usually well maintained and low miles, and you let the previous owner take the worst few years of depreciation. That's been my MO for the last few cars, and it has worked out great.
I bought my F10 for about $31k and it would have originally retailed for about $67k. I've put about $2,200 into it in the past 8 months (tires, oil change, rear brakes, plugs, filters, couple damaged interior pieces, brake flush and getting the iDrive fixed). There's another $1000 in work that I'd like to do (fluid flushes primarily) that should set me up to have a relatively low cost car for the next couple years. (knocks on wood).

So, for under $35k, I've got a car that is functionally equal to a car twice its price. The downside is when you look at the shorter term cost to own. I pay about $470 per month and if you add the $3200 in costs that I know that I'll have in the first couple years, my short term cost to own this car is around $725 per month. As time goes on, it'll obviously get better (I hope).
__________________

2013 535i XDrive
M Sport Package, Premium Package, Cold Weather Package
Rear View Camera, Comfort Seats, Ash Grain Wood Trim, Parking Distance Control
Navigation System, Premium Audio System


==============
Other: 08 Silverado Crew Cab Z-71, 06 Mustang GT Convertible
Past: 328xi, Silverado, S-10 Blazer, Grand Prix (x2), Camaro, Accord and yes.......Chevrolet Vega!
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