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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:15 PM
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Dino's beef with his car

Alright Ive been through some ups and downs with my car.

First I had issues with hesitation, lags, and loss of power.

Fixed those now Im cat-less and have more power than when i first had the car.

BUT after this I ve had a CEL for my o2 sensor. only thing is that its new (got it this year)

fixed a vacuum leak CEL stayed off for half a day then when it came back HELL BROKE LOOSE car sounded like it redlined at 2500rpms idled barely kept an idle backfired (sputtered) like crazy. had codes 1222 (lambda control 1) and 1221

Cj suggested i checked my grounds so i disconnected the battery to check em. theyre all fine

now since the battery was disconnected the CEL was cleared so i went for a drive to see if it would come back.

CEL came back but no running issues like before

Now when comming to a stop the sounds like it wants to stall and it bounces revs for a couple seconds then catches itself and it sounds as if it revs a little higher than idle

car didnt do this after fixing the vacuum line and CEL was off

Ive read that some got this issue because of a bad relay (same relay as the fuel pump if i understood correctly)

Everytime i had a 1222 fault the car acted bad like backfiring, sounds like something will break if revved over 2500 rpms. after its cleared the car runs fine till the CEL comes back again.

Ive replaced a vaccum line and other bits of the vaccum system that was broken in effort to get rid of the light

only thing i have left to try (that has come up from research) is to switch out that relay ive read about which im getting from CJ

Also have long cranking (if it starts) when the car sits for 20 mins but no problem when first start in about 6 hours
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  #2  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:55 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
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Ok, the last symptoms sound like a vac leak to me. Have you checked the charcoal canister/lines? Cleaned ICV and MAF? Tested TPS?

If that's all set, I say CPS and cam sensor are next.

I've never heard of that relay causing problems, but it's worth a try, I guess
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:09 PM
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No haven't checked canister
But icv and maf were cleaned when I did replaced the vacuum line.

Tps was not tested

I do have one vote for the crank sensor from df though

I don't get the relay thing either but according to the post it could have some part

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  #4  
Old 12-13-2011, 09:29 PM
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anybody have a diagram of the m50s vacuum system or know it off the top of their head? was looking on realoem but that can get confusing quick

only other place that wasnt checked for vac leak was charcoal canister cause i didnt know it could play part
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  #5  
Old 12-13-2011, 09:32 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
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Yeah, I know the whole M50 vacuum system.

-intake boot to valve cover
-intake boot to ICV
-ICV to manifold
-manifold to FPR
-manifold to brake booster
-TB to charcoal canister
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  #6  
Old 12-14-2011, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cj.surr View Post
Yeah, I know the whole M50 vacuum system.

-intake boot to valve cover Good

-intake boot to ICV Good
-ICV to manifold Questionable but %90 sure its Good

-manifold to FPR Can I pop the injectors off the manifold to check the vac line there? event though i just drove the car like 5 mins ago?

-manifold to brake booster Good

-TB to charcoal canister Not sure, didnt know there was one there and What the heck is that thing the line goes through? it has a plug connected to it
^^
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  #7  
Old 12-14-2011, 02:20 PM
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Don't pull the fuel rail to check the FPR vacuum. Find the manifold side of the hose (towards the back of the mani), and follow it to the FPR.


That connector on the charcoal canister hose is the purge valve. It opens to allow the gas fumes into the intake.
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  #8  
Old 12-14-2011, 03:23 PM
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Ok the FPR hose is the one that replaced that when i did my knock sensor so thats still good, the line is kinda long but it is still attached to the mani and fpr still

i put my torch near the charcoal vac line but no change in idle speed


also ive noticed a few hours ago with the hood open every time i switch the key to the on position it seems like i hear something that reminds of me of a fuse blowing
does it key on and key off (maybe it was just the car preparing it self to run? )


ALSO

i unplugged my tps to see what the key would do car continued to run. when it was unplugged the car can a constant slightly revs up rpm (id say about 1000rpms)

plugged in it idled normally
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Last edited by BMRfanatic; 12-14-2011 at 03:25 PM.
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2011, 04:59 PM
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found a vacuum leak

spayed some brake fluid and waited for idle change

found an area where the car did a slight rev bounce

sprayed there multiple times the car had a reaction every single time

So im shooting for a line on the charcoal canister, or maybe i dont have a line plugged into the elbow in the right way
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Last edited by BMRfanatic; 12-16-2011 at 05:04 PM. Reason: missed an entire word lol
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:04 PM
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Nice!

Here's hoping it's the only thing wrong!
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:11 PM
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I hope so. Things that I am going to do:

Check the area of vac lines, install the o2 sensor heater relay (whenever that comes in the mail), then find out what sensor is being a bad boy/ (or girl)

If none of the fixes it i dont know what else to do. im freaking getting like 13.7 mpgs on the obc cause of this
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:21 PM
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Well, is that on the OBC? or is that actual?
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

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  #13  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:30 PM
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obc

i know i dont drive too conservatively time to time but damn the gas needle moves way to quick
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:35 PM
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Take a few days/a week and do the math on it then. See what your actual mpg is.
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #15  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:37 PM
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Trip Odometer Gallons = MPG

^this is what im going to use to calculate it?
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  #16  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:40 PM
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YesSir, exactly.
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

HAS KEN HAD HIS MEDS YET?
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  #17  
Old 12-16-2011, 06:52 PM
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nothing.
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with a oxegyn sensor intermidiante i have a calculated average of 24.3 mpgs
obc says 20.2
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  #18  
Old 12-16-2011, 07:05 PM
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^ Tire size. Do you figure the difference in your miles due to your larger tires? You actually get more MPG since your car isn't showing the actual miles you traveled (miles are figured by sensor in diff)
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2011, 12:54 AM
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correct tire sizes where it matters
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2011, 08:29 AM
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so now that its day i tore apart some vacuum lines and checked the lines going from the charcoal canister to the throttle body and its good.

everything is where they should be no ripped lines

so i decided to check the the elbow for cracks but there were any at least from what i can tell, i bent it and everything. still looks new

i sprayed some brake cleaner where on the end of the elbow where it meets the maf and the car started spazzing. it put in a great amount of effort to not stall out
after it regained its composure i spayed there again same result. sprayed in other places - nothing, sprayed in the spot i found again, no change in engine speed (wtf)

but anyways i took apart where maf meets elbow put it back on tight then tightened the hose clamp on it

it looks more closed in after i did that but i dont know if my problem is fixed as i have not driven the car yet


*finger crossed* that it was that and nothing else
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  #21  
Old 12-17-2011, 09:11 AM
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CODE!!!!!!!!!!

but i just put the relay cj sent, ( but at this point i really dont think thats it)


where else could i get a vaccum leak ?
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Last edited by BMRfanatic; 12-17-2011 at 09:40 AM.
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2011, 01:49 PM
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UPDATEZ!!!!

I drove the car like 4 times no CEL first drive was the longest

Think the new relay was the problem
The car bucked on the first drive though (wot acted as a no throttle situation ) but the corrected itself after that aand started driving normally

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  #23  
Old 08-29-2012, 10:00 AM
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Hey Bro

What's good bro. I see you on here.
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  #24  
Old 08-29-2012, 10:59 AM
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Ah nice. Hit up the OT thread bro

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  #25  
Old 08-29-2012, 01:12 PM
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"bro"



this thread just go bro tastic.

alright ima stop since i have nothing to offer
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